makar0n

This is some powerful dark magic, you be careful there ye mighty wizard.

I really love you now 😆

If that does not work, Nauticam website lists two stores in Manila - guess shipping is an option. Their cable will definitely work but it won't come cheap. https://www.nauticam.com/pages/store-locator Good luck!

Are you using the housing flash trigger on R7 vs built-in flash on Olympus? If so, it could be the fiber optic cable is simply not up to scratch - either single core or very much mangled. Basically flash triggers produce less light, hence with a bad cable, simply not enough will travel over to trigger the strobe. That is the very exact behavior I had years ago when first switching to a flash trigger - ended up replacing the cables and all works perfect. DIY is an easy route, see below. Or need to buy a premade one - i.e 613 core.

I wonder what the heck is "cTTL" ...and there seems to be two manual modes ? Could it be HSS hiding somewhere there ? Light seems upgraded too, now one can choose between white and red - good idea, while inserts were fine, it was not something that was easily changed during the dive really.

Same here. Also while the port chart mentions 45 and 60mm lense, 90mm is conspicuously absent.

Pay an arm and a leg for strobes, be forced to spend another half a grand on pretty much "mandatory but not included" battery extension that also increases strobe size/weight, and get to carry half a kilo of batteries alone plus an armful of chargers. Could not resist. You may spank me now😉 At least left that "Apple 8GB of RAM" thread alone....for now 🤣

Pretty much a monopolist who refuses to sell the software, instead forcing the users to rent it, raises the price whenever they feel like it. Totally unexpected 🤣

Hmm I might not be the knowledgeable one when it comes to those flashy things, but Olympus FL-LM3, which is also a "normal" flash, works fine. I think the major issue with the Godox will be fitting it inside the housing - FL-LM3 only fits because Nauticam designed the housing with the necessary space.

Hmm had similar issues with Nauticam trigger and Z240s - issue was the cable (original multi-core Nauticam) was basically half broken - i.e. after years of use, too many strands have failed and not enough light went through. That said, putting a stronger trigger (TRT) did help with another cable that had similar issues (DYI multi-core one this time that I did not make very well...). Silly question - you sure its original Inon cable and not some cheap replica? As looks too cheap for an original and don't think Inon makes them in 2m length neither. Such random cables often use shitty quality (or single core) fiber optic and that might result in not enough light being carried to trigger the strobes. Again, speaking from experience of buying similar once and not being able to trigger the strobes as well - it would work fine with built in flash, as it was more powerful, but not with the Nauticam trigger... You can very easily make you own cable - see here: And here:

Eneloops Pro are handling low temps pretty well so I do not think 6 degrees would be an issue. Since battery usage will differ between different devices, and yes, one failing battery can result in strobe complaining about not having juice (gets uneven so to speak). I would suggest a few more tests that will hopefully help you determine where the issue might be: 1) Confirm issue happens again i.e. this was just not a fluke dive (unless done multiple dives already that is with issue persisting) 2) Swap batteries around - is the issue staying with the same strobe or moving with the batteries? (though you do mention "second Retra Pro Max started showing signs..." 3) Try other/completely new batteries - yeah no ideal to having to buy new ones but that way you can see if that makes difference. Hopefully you will then at least have a better idea whether issue is battery or strobe related. Another angle is the internal battery resistance - the 015 reading does seem a bit low (vs others). You could try to mix and match the sets i.e. find ones that are reading high and try only those. Could be also charger though - a lot of them are simply inaccurate as well as slot dependant (i.e. battery will read differently on different slots) As I had some time on my hands, I took out Xtar VC4S and measured resistance. Note that I am not sure as to how accurate this is - for example one battery showed about 121 mΩ (once), I then swapped it to another slot and now it shows 38 mΩ (or thereabout after swapping few more times)...To counter this, I have read each set twice - 2nd time just randomly swapping batteries between slots to see if readings will change (so readings in second column do not belong to the same line as first column technically) - and yes they did, so I suspect my charger is not that accurate neither. 3 sets of Eneloop Pros, all produced between 09-11/2011, all 3 work fine in all my devices including Z240s. Have not been charged or used for a few months so voltage on all is just under 1.3V. Set #1 mΩ #1 mΩ #2 23 28 38 18 27 31 32 27 Set #2 mΩ #1 mΩ #2 31 21 21 23 23 18 47 31 Set #3 mΩ #1 mΩ #2 43 20 54 18 23 20 72 30

I always wondered - do people still use the 5 pin ? Fiber sounds like so much easier/simpler solution really. Personally I think i've opened that 5 pin cap on Z-240 once...for greasing xD

Waiting for the Pro Max Retina XDR Thunderbolt Liquid model. And 1k stand as an accessory 🤣

Let's add "travel and tight spaces friendly". Could also go with "power efficient". And this wannabe Apple Pro Max naming....yikes xD

The very exact thing. Not bothered about GN gazillion at all - would love a travel and tight places friendly strobe (and not the current crop of bricks) with modern features like HSS, maybe even a circular tube for a nice beam. Support for Li-Ion batteries (maybe even interchangeable with AA) purely for a faster recycle rate. Absolutely no battery packs. Well made, with a minimum 100m depth rating and reasonably priced as well. But a man can dream...