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Cool and mystrious. Great! -
Yesterday evening I saw Thunderball on TV, a James Bond film from 1965. Lots of diving with a new gimmick for Bond, a Nikonos camera. Note the brand being blacked out. It made me wonder if this was the first underwatercamera in a film. Does anyone know an earlier example?
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I am more inclined to compare it with the Pan 45mm macro + CMC. I love the 45mm because it focusses at a nice distance, closer than the 60mm and farther away than the 30mm. At 15cm the lens magnifies 1X and it has diagonal field of 27 degrees. Apparently not as wide as 60MM + MFO3 but the reason I bought it after I bought the 60mm.
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The MFO3 reduces the field from that of a 60mm lens to about 37 mm focal length increasing diagonal field from 20 to 33 degrees. " Does this mean that 60mm+ MFO3 is in practice more or less an equivalent to a Oly 30mm or Pana 45mm with a CMC2 wetlens? I mean considering of width of field, not of working distance.
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If Sorido Bay is to expensive checkout its cheaper version, Kri Eco resort. These resorts lie a few hundred meters apart and both are Max Ammer's Papua Diving resorts. Some years ago we spend two weeks there and really enjoyed the place and the dives. Professional management and great dive guides.
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Do you really need to burp? Apart from the camera (in my case Oly 5III), I have exactly the same configuration as you have. To my knowledge :-) I don t experience bubble problems. From earlier posts I got the impression that problems occur with lenses that are capable to focus extremely close. So close, that they lock focus on the notoriuos bubbles .
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With its large eyes and pointed beak, I agree, a triplefin . Not sure which species though.
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I prefer the second one, the continuation of body structure and colour in the sponge is fabulous.
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I have one of the printed ones for my CMC-1 lens for 8 years now, also some 100-150 dives. It has the perfect form to hold the the protuding backside of the nauticam lenses close to the port-window. The close mechanism (click to prevent the adapter flipping open) was very stiff and after many pulls underwater the inner ring got loose and I had to reglue it. This happed once. After I flattened the protusion of the locking mechanism, that''s no issue any more. I was told they use epoxyglue. Seawater does not affect epoxy-glue, sunlight does but wont reach the glued surface anyhow.
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In the "old" days there was more than just a discussion, at least for the WWL-1. This test was shown on the Nauticam site, no idea which lens they used behind it. f/8 to f/11 always worked well for me on MFT.
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Now worries Tim. From the (lack of) reactions it appears that a 1/2 EV step setting on the camera has few. followers. I''ll try it on my next trip, to look if I find the 1/2 steps subtle enough.
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Yep, "automatic" for the mind.
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Yes that's what I mean, you can adjust the camera. I made the point because I heard Alex M. telling somewhere that he found it convenient to click equivalent steps on camera and strobes. Like adjusting aperture 4 clicks down to get a better DOF and 'automaticly' the strobe 4 clicks up. Usefull if you spend a longer time on one subject.
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Like many of us I mostly shoot in manual mode. Today it occurred to me that it isn't logical that my strobe control works in 1/2 EV steps and my camera is set at 1/3 EV steps. Both set at 1/2 steps would make it easier to make adjustments in aperture or ISO. Wonder what your thoughts are on this issue.
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Till now I have plus $ 500 for the next trip 😊
