Floris Bennema

For M43 shooters. I designed a zoom gear for my Panasonic Lumix 14-42mm lens in a Nauticam housing. A nice lens with the WWL-1. At first it was a bit narrow to put on the lens but not problematic. I use it for two years now, it works really fine. Nauticam Zoom Gear for Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH Mega O.I.S. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5865363 Floris

Hi Wolfgang, Does the snoot screw firmly on your strobe? I have bought custom made beam restrictors for my Inon Z330 strobes, but they are a bit short. To design new ones I could use the lower part of the snoot design.

My latest liveaboard forbade even mobiles to be loaded in the rooms. I never dived into the issue but they were very strict on it.

Not to mention the danger on the wooden liveaboards..

Not a good place to go as a photographer. Of course, diving with all these hammerheads must be fantastic and you have the opportunity to make some amazing shots. Yet the bigger the group, ther less the divemaster will be inclined to wait for to optimise your shot. I often dive with some friends that have no camera. Not ideal, but they understand that I take my time. I had some bad experiences on trips with diveguides that just swam on in front and didn't look back. In such a case it's nice when there are more photographers, you look at each other and think 'let him go'.. Not a good idea in strong currents, of course. It's amazing how some diveguides are so unaware of their clients.

And that's not all, as Loic35 said "It seems that $179.95 is the introductory price (Dema) valid until November 29th. I think it's to high for a plugin, it stopped me from buying. From now on I have a new challenge, flash with perfect strobe positions to be able to compete.

It's more pragmatic to just use the strobearms to improve the buoyancy. If that not enough, you could add buoyancy arms. If you often dive without strobes, check first how your set feels without floats. And don't be too concerened about small changes in uw-weight.

Ok, I am a PS illiterate, normally LR is more than enough for me.

Just compared BackscatterXTerminator with the 3x cheaper (hey, I am Dutch!) StarXTerminator, from the same developer. StarXTerminator mostly gave a result halfway the original image and BXT. Only on very dark parts the results were more or less the same. Another advantage of BXT is that it produces an extra layer that allows you to bring back parts (like whiskers) that were wrongly removed. Like to compare StarNet++ one day.

Although it says you need a NVIDIA Graphic card on your computer I tried a trial version on my Windows laptop with Intel Iris Xe Graphics. It works, about 3 minutes for a 20 Mb image.

It's clear, I get your point. I can imagine you get frustrated! I never had this focussing issue, probably because my lens (Panasonic 14-42 on Olympus 5 III) can't focus closer than 10 cm from it's front. Strange enough, I neither have ýour' dark dots on my photos. Light ones I have, but not at the same place in successive photos. So I think that's something in the water or reflection from the sun.

RoniK, I don't understand that you ascribe dark spots in the previous post to bubbles and the light spots in this one. Note that in this photo there's also a dark one. Anyhow, so few, easy to remove in Lightroom.

I don't understand these complaints on WWL-1 bubbles. I use the lens for over 5 years and only experienced bubbles before the bayonet mount came out. Rolling from a boat I keep my camera in front of me so the water flows in rather smoothly and never take the lens off. Or jump, camera up in the air. No issue for me. Do those who have isuues use the bayonet mount? .

I prefer a hand strap on the side of the shutter release. Not sure if it's possible on a AIO housing.

The minimum focus distance of the 60mm lens is 19cm. For this reason I only use it in clear water.