Tom Kline

The hood is shown in the link that I posted up-thread. Scroll up and click. It is generic, i.e., no brand. The only text on it is 67mm.

The only marking on it is "67mm" like the first one in this search result: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=67mm+vented+lens+shade&atb=v320-1&ia=shopping&iax=shopping

screws in

I did not want to speculate above but one possibility is gas expansion in the battery compartment pushing the o-ring in the wrong direction. BTW when I take a pressure reading of my housing using the Backscatter model housing sucker part (there is a gauge on it), the vacuum reading tends be lower (!) after use in local water (local mean water temp measured by a graduate student is 5°C). Housing is still cold; it takes hours to warm up at room temp.

I do not have a pic of mine. Keep in mind that 67mm is a very common filter size with many lens shades available. Both for protection and flare reduction. The one I have in the case with my SMC is a vented shade like those made for rangefinder cameras. Possibly to have less drag.

Aquatica as well as Ikelite use inch sized bulkheads. Mostly likely because the tools for inch sizes are more available (and cheaper) in this part of the world. Certainly easier to find locally in hardware stores, e.g. taps to thread the holes.

I use a lens shade in the threads of my SMC-1. Probably a good idea with the MFO unless one is overly concerned with extra drag.

Your story reminds me of one from a few months ago involving Retra. Diving on more than one day without opening and re-sealing. What can happen? One can only speculate. I have done multiple dives many times without changing batteries in my strobes within a day but not with a time gap of an overnight. I have for the camera housing (two days diving (as well as stream shooting) without recharging or removing cards).

Nice shot. I have been able to take group shots of salmon etc. schooled up and generally not moving much but it does take some time for them to get use to the camera which I keep on the bottom (negatively buoyant). There are many examples on my website in several galleries.

I have mainly used wired remote controls made by Seacam for my work with both Nikon and Canon DSLR cameras. The Seacam release stick is two-stage like the shutter release button on a camera. First the AF is turned on (camera woken up if needed) and second the shutter is triggered by additional finger preassure on the button. This allows one to finesse the AF so as to get the fish in focus at the right moment. I have not used anything via USB but over the past Christmas holidays at my sister's I used my ipad mini to trigger my Nikon Z9 remotely using the Nikon Snapbrige app. wirelessly. That worked only fairly. A lot of misses due to sluggish response as well as poor haptics via the screen release. As well the app frequently stopped working even with only glass (sliding door) between my ipad and the camera at just a couple of meters (close range). I did manage to get a few good shots of some Virgina wildlife at a bird feeder this way but I did shoot thousands of pix. Examples are on my website.

Getting more magnification generally means getting closer (keeping the same lens). One will get more magnification along with greater working distance using a longer focal length lens. But they are more difficult to use due to the narrower angle of view one gets with a longer focal length. There is no free lunch. Also using a diopter instead of a teleconverter (TC) will yield a larger working aperture, i.e. brighter (if this is what you meant by "allow more light onto the lens"; lens shades are used to avoid this as this is generally a not desirable). TCs were used quite a bit to get greater than 1:1 a few years ago).

With the new Retra strobe already in the pipeline I have a number of new things to try out with its particular capabilities: short flash duration (under 1 millisecond) as well as the possibility of "motor drive mode" shots. Should keep me off the streets for much of the upcoming year, ROTFL!

If the SMC-2 is too powerful there is not much point to another diopter alongside either a -1 or -3 given the extended focusing range intrinsic to the RF100.

A quick followup to my post from yesterday. I heard back from Retra last night (Alaska time). The maxi IS compatible with the E-Opto converter also used for the gen 3&4 Retras. I showed my approval by pre-ordering. Happy Black Friday.

Happy Thanksgiving all!!! I am still trying to find out if the Maxi is compatible with the E-Opto converter preferably the model for gen 3&4 Retras (the converter screws directly on the underwater strobe). The person answering queries on the Retra site was not sure. The ability to use wired synch cable sets the Retras apart (among other attributes) from the recent competition. Here is a shot of one of my setups from 2024 where one can see the converter: https://www.salmonography.com/Salmonid-Topic/Family-ties/i-Cw48NgF/A

Are you aware that the lens aperture reported in the camera when using RS lenses is not accurate? The difference is greatest at the smallest aperture. For this reason I only use RS lenses in M exposure mode on Nikons. Clueless about use on Sony.

Nothing bothers me it is just very obvious when reviewing images in Lightroom and moving through them quickly in the 'filmstrip" or using arrow keys when they are taken with a stationary camera such as my salmon shoots in streams.

I can confirm that the Canon 8-15mm lens has focus breathing with concurrent change in angle of view.

We will just have to wait until the specs come out. Given its compatibility with many models it will likely be the same size as 4 AA batteries which does not suggest a super high capacity. Hopefully will at least equal 8 AAs. But upgrades will be possible.

Thanks. I am fairly nerdy with my pix - under the influence of my academic background.

4000 miles from the motherlode so grabbed a favorite from my website. 130° EMWL used to get this close up of a collector urchin, a common species in Hawaii but a challenge to get a decent shot of (ie., showing multiple details such as pedicellaria, tube feet, and spines). Taken off Waikiki where I made a pit stop en route to Palau.

EMWL - extended macro wide lens

Way more advanced than my video level. As well even posting v low rez versions takes many minutes even for a 30 sec vid. My net is very very slow for uploading.