Landvogt1893

Just a quick update: I’m already in email contact with Retra. It seems there is an issue with the current firmware, which is supposed to be fixed in the next update. I’m curious to see how it turns out. I need the strobes as reliable workhorses – they simply have to work when I need them. I’m also not willing to buy a new set of batteries for every use or for longer trips where reliability is crucial. My Sea&Sea strobes, for example, sat in the cupboard for weeks – I put in the batteries (no matter which ones), and off they went.

Which one? How do you come to that assumption? In every other device, including flashes for above-water functions, the batteries work perfectly. Thank you, Oskar, for your detailed message. Unfortunately, it doesn’t really help me at the moment. I was looking for general user experiences, not a check on whether my strobes have the latest firmware. This kind of experience, especially from a relatively manufacturer-neutral perspective, is something I can only get in a forum. When I imagine that before every dive I either need new Eneloops or have to check each one to make sure they work, I start feeling unwell 🙂

Hi, Today, after a long time, I finally had the chance to test my new Retra Pro Max strobes underwater. Unfortunately, the excitement didn’t last long. Underwater, one of the two strobes only turned on briefly before shutting down with the message: "Please charge the battery." It turned off immediately after that. I had charged the batteries (relatively new Eneloop Pros) the day before and only took them out of the charger this morning. When I inserted them and did a quick test, everything seemed fine. Frustrated, I had to end my dive early. When I placed the batteries back into the charger, it displayed the following values: 1.36V – 066mR 1.35V – 120mR 1.35V – 120mR 1.34V – 015mR After charging for 30 minutes, the values were: 1.48V – 066mR 1.47V – 120mR 1.48V – 120mR 1.48V – 015mR The charger added 141mAh – 184mAh, meaning the batteries were far from empty. Honestly, I’m very disappointed. Even the second Retra Pro Max started showing signs of power loss after just 60 shots. Is there a solution for this? The Eneloops shouldn’t be defective, right? My Sea&Sea D2 strobes worked perfectly with any battery and never had issues. I definitely won’t buy the Booster Pack—I'd rather sell the strobes before doing that. Ah, in case it’s important to mention—the water temperature was only 6°C.

I understand how a diopter works, but there are some diopters that make it easier and allow more light onto the lens and others that don't, hence this thread. I need something strong like the SMC 2 🙂

I am looking for a significant increase compared to the SMC1 – already on par with the SMC2 but easier to handle. With the AOI diopters, I often read that their design allows more light to reach the lens, making them easier to work with. Unfortunately, I haven’t found any information about the working distance yet.

Hello everyone, I’m currently looking for a new diopter. So far, I’ve been shooting with a Canon R5 and the RF 100 in a Nauticam housing, currently using the SMC-1 and SMC-2. The SMC-1 has already been sold and will be replaced with an SMC-3. I’d also like to replace the SMC-2, as it’s simply too specialized and hardly usable due to its very short minimum focusing distance. Would you recommend replacing the SMC-2 with a CMC-1 or something from the AOI series? Maybe the 90 or 900 Pro?

great test! Thank you! I'm very excited about the tests with the 10-20 behind a 140 dome. Do you perhaps also have the opportunity to test a 15-35 3.8? This is my current go to lens.

great pictures Chris!

I did it again 😅

Wow cool! Which divesite was this? greetings from the German site of lake C 🙂

Im looking for a Nauticam Extension Rings.... 20mm or 50mm old or the new one 🙂

It’s me again 😅. has anyone experience in booth triggers? I once read in another report that the uw technics is not as well made and seems a bit cheaper and more sensitive. What speaks in its favor is that you don't have to switch it on. I've already realized that I don't have to do that with the Nauticam trigger from time to time.

I got the message from Nauticam - the trigger supports HSS. Great.

Hey, im looking for a new trigger with the possibility of HSS. I found nothing on the Nauticam website if the TTL converter has HSS or not with a Retra pro Max. so which of these two triggers I should use? Housing: Nauticam Kamera: Canon R5 flash: Retra Pro Max / old YD2 and a MF2

Selling here a used but fully functional Nauticam TTL A247363 flash trigger including charger and two spare batteries. Nauticam TTL Trigger for Canon Negotiable price: 350€

ok, thats a realy good point! Mhhh have to think about it 🙂

Is there anything against combining the two flashes Pro max and Prime? They should be identical in terms of handling and not so different in terms of weight underwater. I have ordered the pro max for testing. The display is nice but not absolutely necessary, so I'm thinking about saving a few bucks.😁👌🏼

It would be great if you could share it with us. I'm also looking for this zoom ring and another one for the Canon 8-15 with Kenko Tk. I have a printer but not the drawing skills 🙂

Do you have any idea why the WWL-1B is not in play here? If you are interested, I can provide a RAW of the R5 with the 24-50 and the WWL-C 🙂 One with WWL-C and one with only the 24-50 at a night dive 🙂 1/200 F6.3 ISO 640 1/200 F9 ISO 400

I already have a Retra Pro max in front of me 🙂 So far only one that I have not been able to test due to a persistent cough 🙂

The points you mentioned also make me worry. Unfortunately, I can only find tests with Sony cameras and so far none with a Canon R5, for example. What also worries me about the WWL-C is that you could lose focus a bit. I'm currently jumping into the water and know that I only have the setup for wide-angle and ignore everything to do with macro. If you can change the lens now, you're quickly tempted to take a macro here and a wide-angle there... you might quickly lose sight of the essentials 🙂

That's a good point - I overlooked it or misunderstood it. So the WACP does not work with the RF lenses or is there any experience here? The 28-70 is out due to the really slow AF. Why do people always talk about the WWL-C in the Canon R series and not the WWL-1B?

Hello everyone, I have already been able to test the R5 combination with the RF 24-50 and a WWL-C. The image quality is very good! Now there is also the option to use the RF 24-50 with the WACP-C. Has anyone tested both and can say whether it makes an optical difference? The other option for the WACP-C would be the RF15-30mm, but unfortunately I haven't found anything on this. You are welcome to share your experiences here too 🙂

Hello everyone, during the last safari, the flash tube of my YS-D2 burst. It has now lasted a really long time and has had to put up with a lot - so it's ok. But now I need a replacement. I'm currently considering the YS-D3 or the Retra MaxPro. With all the accessories, the Retra easily costs around 1000€ more. What makes it so much better than a D3 - or rather, is it really that much better? I always have to remember that I need two.... in case it's important, I currently shoot with a Canon R5.

Hello, I'm Michael and I'm from Germany. Glad to be part of this new forum 🙂 I am a wedding photographer above water. Underwater I am currently using a Canon R5 in a Nauticam housing.