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Sony 100 mm macro
Seacam updated their port chart, and they recommend the PVL65 extension for the 100mm macro. I can confirm that a 60mm would not work. By email, Harald also recommended the PVL65+20 for the TC1.4, and PVL65+30 for the TC2.0 combos. Given what I already had, I ended up using the PVLs 45+20 for the 100mm, 45+40 for the 100mm+1.4, and 40+35+20 for 100mm+2.0. Stacking 3 extensions isn't optimal, but it works. Now for the test - I had a chance to go to the pool and play with everything. My aim wasn't pixel peeping, but to get a feel for this new gear, confirm that everything works, and see approx what magnification level I can get. Gear: A1, Seacam housing, MIP80 with extensions as above, no strobe, SMC-1. Lighting was inconsistent due to clouds so I did what I could. Some editing to try to get a consistent look across photos. All pictures use the same settings for texture (0) clarity (+10) dehaze (0) sharpening (40) and noise reduction (L15 C50). All pictures uncropped, exported at 1920px. I'm hoping the pictures show up in order. For pictures 2-9 I aimed to achieve the maximum magnification I could. Picture 1: Subject is 10cm long and has 2 rhinophores (elephantophores?) and a snout (snoot?) which is about 3-4mm. Picture 2: 90mm, 1/160, f/10, ISO 3200 Picture 3: 90mm + SMC1, 1/160, f/10, ISO 3200 Picture 4: 100mm, 1/125, f/10, ISO 1600 (inadvertently used different settings) Picture 5: 100mm + SMC1, 1/160, f/10, ISO 3200 Picture 6: 100mm + 1.4x TC, 1/160, f/10, ISO 3200 Picture 7: 100mm + 1.4x TC + SMC1, 1/160, f/10, ISO 3200 Picture 8: 100mm + 2.0x TC, 1/160, f/10, ISO 3200 Picture 9: 100mm + 2.0x TC + SMC1, 1/250, f/10, ISO 6400 (had to use faster shutter speed and bump up the iso) My perspective: this lens is going to be very fun to shoot. It is definitely faster to focus than the 90mm macro. The 100mm is slightly bigger, unfortunately it makes it tricky to take both the camera+lens out of the housing in one go, it's better to unscrew the lens first through the housing front. A battery change on a boat is a riskier operation. I love that we can natively achieve 1.4 magnification without having to add the SMC1, while keeping a greater working distance than the 90+SMC1. I also love that I can still add the SMC-1 to get an even higher magnification, whether used just with the 100mm, or with the TCs as well. Adding the 1.4x TC gives a 140mm lens, which can achieve about the same magnification as 100mm+SMC1 but is much more comfortable to handle. The 1.4x TC is light and adds weight towards the center of the camera whereas the SMC1 is heavy and off balance (I'm aware the SMC3 helps with that). And adding the SMC-1 on top of it really expands the range to super super macro Adding the 2.0xTC gives a 200mm lens. Magnification is great but the 200mm seems really inconvenient underwater, to get the whole elephant in the frame I had to move back more than I wanted, and I can see this would be both harder to frame subjects, and to position strobes. Adding the SMC-1 gives an even higher magnification as well, but the working distance was very small and getting the shot was really hard - despite perfect conditions with static subject and photographer. I can't imagine this working too well underwater. With the TCs, the minimum aperture also increases from f/22 to f/31 or f/45 so that may occasionally be useful as well. So the 100mm + 1.4x TC + SMC-1 will be coming with me to Lembeh, 90mm will enjoy its retirement. I'll keep the 2.0 TC for specific targets on local dives, like Shaun the Sheep
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Sony 100 mm macro
They both have their place topside for wildlife and birds. I pair the 2x occasionally with a 100-400 4.5-5.6. It is okay, the main inconvenient being that at 400mm the f-stop decreases to f/11, and there is some decrease in image quality. I've now gotten my hands on the 100mm and 1.4 as well and my first impressions are very positive. The 100mm focuses notably faster. The 90mm was already tack sharp so I wasn't expecting much improvement over there. I'll try to share some tests when I get to the pool (and soon after in Lembeh!). In practice I'm not sure how much use the 2x will get underwater, I would think the 1.4x is a lot more versatile.
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Gadget you didn't know you needed
I have this Behringer controller and used midi2LR a fair bit but wasn't quite satisfied with this solution. First you have to spend quite a fair bit of time setting it up, then building the muscle memory. Then I could never be fully reliant on it and had to switch back and forth with the mouse and keyboard. The hand(s) have to move a bit too much around. And finally there was quite a noticeable lag between the moment the wheels are turned and the sliders are changed. Long story short, I ended up buying LrSuperKeys (https://www.lrsuperkeys.com/), which is an LR add-on, not an external device, and this has been AMAZING. The way I use it: in LR, in the develop module, I now long press on a key and then either use the scrollwheel or click+move the mouse to adjust the sliders. So I'd press 1 to change the temperature, 2 for the tint, 3 for saturation, 4 for vibrance, Q for exposure, W for contrast, ASDF for highlights/whites/shadows/blacks, ZXCV for tone curve control, etc, 6/7/8/9/F5/F6/F7/F8/F9 to control red/orange/yellow/.../magenta (and depending on where the mouse is on the screen, it changes the hue, saturation or luminance), etc. Keys and shortcuts can all be configured. This has massively improved my editing workflow, the learning curve is minimal, there's no need for an external device, and... it's very fun to use.
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Advice on a Carry-On Camera Backpack
+1 for this Protactic BP 450 AW II, it's been very solid. I usually carry my housing, FF camera, 2 or 3 lenses, 2 60D strobes, viewfinder, strobes and camera batteries and charger, focusing light, SMC-1, laptop, sometimes even laptop charger. I keep the ports, ports extension, arms, clamps and spare parts box in a check-in luggage, but could probably fit the macro port by changing the layout. It probably clocks in at 15kg with the laptop. Of course it's very heavy, but it's still comfy and inconspicuous enough.
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New Seacam water contact optic
I've just weighed my Seacam Compact Port at 1042g, and the PVL 40mm extension at 178g, for a total of 1220g. I had quoted incorrect figures on the weight of the Superdome and CP in an earlier post but I'm no longer able to edit it. I haven't seen a detailed tech specs sheet for either dome.
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New Seacam water contact optic
I'm happy to see some innovation from Seacam here. Although I'm not sure it's for me - I've been happy with the 16-35 PZ and compact port, and corner sharpness hasn't been an major issue except at CFWA. Couple of things I'm curious about: Is the field of view of the lenses the same as on land? Which of the major lenses are compatible? Can we use say a 24-105? What's the weight - they say "similar to the superdome" which is 2950g. The compact port is 1850g. What are the dimensions, weight, prices, diameters of the optical correction lenses? The one shown at the page is 77mm, but Sony's 16-35 are either 82mm (GM/GMII) or 72mm (PZ/Vario-Tessar). Canon is 82 or 77 and Nikon 77mm. I'm sure they've thought about this.
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Sony 100 mm macro
Oh, am I seeing a rubber band to prevent the AF/MF ring from switching back to MF inadvertently? Simple and brilliant idea, thanks. We've all been there, on a dive and feeling helpless with the ring that had moved back into MF.
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What do you carry your camera rig in?
For travel I use a Lowepro ProTactic BP 450 AW. I'm very happy with it. I can fit my housing, strobes, camera, 2 or 3 lenses, laptop, spare batteries and a couple of other parts. Of course the bag ends up being around 12-14 kg which is super heavy, but the bag is still comfortable enough. I haven't had any problem with airlines in Asia. I like that it appears just as a regular bag, and haven't been asked by airline staff to weigh it. For boat trips I've been using an AO Cooler 36 for about 8 years now. I am glad that I went with the 36 and not the 24. I don't see that much difference in terms of space taken by my old APS-C Ikelite setup, and the full-frame Seacam setup I now have. Then again the Seacam housing is compact. It's the arms that tend to get in the way. Extra space is always useful for spare parts tupperware, mask, dive computer, torch, towel, etc. However the zippers are metallic and will get encrusted. I did dissolve those a couple of times with vinegar, but that's a short term fix. I can't move them now and am not even trying anymore. I originally had the thought of using it as a carry-on but never did - yeah it's well padded but still too loose inside, + with all the spare parts, laptop etc... not ideal or feasible. What I do instead is that I put the AO coolers in a regular suitcase. So, with the suitcase open, I stack the fins first, then the cooler on top, stash the ports and arms in the cooler, then all my clothes. I've even managed to fit the BCD and reg as well in that suitcase. After that there's still plenty of space for about 1 swimsuit and 2.5 t-shirts...
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Greetings from the Philippines
Hi folks, I've been in Manila for almost a decade now - lucky to have great dive sites around, even though I don't dive as often as I'd like! Commenting here as it looks like I need a member intro post before replying in other threads. I'm a Seacam+Sony user. Cheers