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Interested in high quality, low weight/size UW photography + want to know more about Marketplace functions
Hi Joakim A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Good to have you with us. Marketplace is a service to members who can buy and sell items. Before you can post on Marketplace , you need to make a total of three posts on other threads. This is part of our system to try and deter spammers. Marketplace is free, essentially a deal reached between buyer and seller. There are no commissions involved as far as Waterpixels are concerned. We always advise caution. Is the seller a long-established member of Waterpixel; does the deal sound reliable; is the payment method something standard or weird? Iβve bought and sold lots of times and always found it easy and. hassle-free. We are fortunate that the vast majority of members are thoroughly decent people. I hope that helps. Best wishes Tim
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Shooting a Snoot
Hey Tim I always setup for only one type of photo dive: macro or wide-angle. I never try to do both on one dive. If macro, Iβd have the snoot on my left-hand strobe and usually the Retra macro rings on the right. I usually only light the subject with one strobe. Typically Iβll use the snoot for most of the dive. Itβs not often that Iβd take it off. But if I do, I either clip it on to a d-ring on my BCD via a shackle I added to the Retra lanyard; or occasionally, Iβll put the snoot into a Zeagle tech pocket attached to my BCD. The Retra LSD just about squeezes in. Cheers Tim
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New member
Hey James! Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Youβve come to the right place to help you kit out that Sony. And spend a ton of cash. Very best wishes Tim
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Long Term Review of the Retra Maxi Strobe
The mount is very solid. Oskar told me once you cannot over-tighten them either. Not that Iβve tried!
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Greetings from Liguria!
Hi Alessio! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. I hope you get the info you need. Lots of experts here who Iβm sure will be helpful. Best wishes Tim
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OM TG-7's LG-1 LED Light Guide vs FD-1 Flash Diffuser. Which one for underwater macro photography?
This is what ChatGPT says: they are quite different accessories for the TG-series cameras such as the TG-7. FD-1 Flash Diffuser LG-1 LED Light Guide Light source Built-in flash Built-in LED Light Short, powerful flash Continuous light Macro stills Better Good, but less powerful Video Not useful as continuous light Excellent Underwater Yes Not useful underwater Working distance About 2β30 cm About 1β10 cm Light control Two flash levels No separate control Best for Underwater/macro photography Macro/video and very close subjects OM System specifically describes the FD-1 as a flash diffuser that gives softer, more even illumination and lists it as compatible with the TG-7, TG-6, TG-5 and TG-4. For your underwater photography Iβd choose the FD-1 without hesitation. The important advantage is that it uses the TGβs flash, rather than the relatively weak LED. That gives you enough light for faster shutter speeds and lower ISO, which is particularly useful for underwater macro where you want to freeze subject movement. OM System also specifically confirms that the FD-1 can be used underwater. The LG-1 is really more of a macro/video light guide. It takes the cameraβs LED and distributes it around the lens. Itβs particularly useful when you need to see the lighting continuously while composing video. So, if youβre using a TG-7 for underwater stills, get the FD-1.
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UWT Trigger for Nauticam/OM System OM-1
No, not as yet. Got a trip coming up and will try them then. Both seem very good.
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Hello from Wisconsin!
Hey Tim! Welcome to Waterpixels. Very good to have you with us. We hope you enjoy the forum Best wishes from another Tim Tim
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Nikon 8-15 AF-S fish eye
Want to Buy
I use the Nikkor 8-15mm on both a Z6iii and a Z9 - not underwater. Works really well with the FTZ.
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UWT Trigger for Nauticam/OM System OM-1
Having recently written about installing the o-Turtle trigger into a Nauticam housing, Iβve now had a go with a UWT internal trigger for the Nauticam NA-OM1 housing. UWT describes it as the 11072-22-HSS TTL-Converter for NAUTICAM for OLYMPUS/ OM SYSTEM. The UWT trigger arrives in a bubble-wrap envelope in a small cardboard box. No frills functional. It consists of a small electronics board with two LEDs and a cable leading to a hot shoe connector. The manual explains that strobes are selected through a small click-dial (just visible in the bottom right of the picture). That is the whole of the setup. There is no battery with power being drawn, I guess, from the camera. The trigger provides Manual, TTL and, with the right strobes, HSS initiation. The manual explains that, no surprise, the board is fixed to the housing bulkhead so that the two LEDs shine through the housing fibre optic ports. Unlike other UWT boards (eg for Subal - which uses two screws), the fastening is achieved by two strips of double-sided tape which are pre-installed on the trigger board. βSimplyβ peel back the tape, and push into place. Full details are here: https://uwtechnics.com/product/11072-22-hss-ttl-converter-for-olympus-for-nauticam-underwater-housings-na-om1-em1-iii-em10-iv-em1x-em5-ii-em-5-iii-om1/ Installation seemed simple, but having experienced initial placement failure with the o-Turtle, I was more than slightly nervous about sticking the UWT board in place. After hours of thought, I used a very soft pencil (3B) to draw two straight lines on the inside of the housing which ran vertically through the LED ports; and single a horizontal line across the LED ports. The lines were longer than the size of the board so that they could be seen even with the board in place. The lines meant the alignment of the LED ports was visible even when the board hid them. Then, with the camera installed in the housing and strobes plugged in to the bulkheads, I pushed the connector on to the camera hot shoe and watched how the cable allowed the electronics board to drop onto the bulkhead. Moving the board around slightly it was still possible to see the guide marks. Holding the board with a finger in what seemed the correct position, the shutter trigger was pulled - and bingo - the strobes fired. Yay! Couple more trial goes followed just to make sure. Then removing the protective film from the sticky pads on the board and, again, using the pencil marks for alignment, I secured the board into place. Wiping the beads of sweat off my forehead, I pulled the trigger a few times and my Retras happily flashed away. Playing around, Manual and TTL were a breeze. HSS took a little while to discover the settings needed on the OM-1ii but that was soon going too. Using a UWT trigger on a Nikon/Subal system for over a decade proved very reliable. Any problems and Pavel, who is Mr UWT, is a tremendous source of help. Now based in Taiwan, UWT triggers are available by mail order or from the usual underwater photography dealers.
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Liveaboards: A Word to the Wise
Yeah, good point. Not one I really want to think about too hard. Honestly, if it had been during the night, we would not have got out especially moored in the harbour. It has to be a false alarm, right? Turn over and go back to sleep....... Agreed on the Can't All Be Lithium fires. I know of several liveaboard fires which definitely were not started by batteries.
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Photography tips for Tonga
Shooting around or up towards the surface with a 45-degree finder can be a little tricky (it's what I had on my system) as aiming at the right place is a little deceiving. But, like many things, it's just practice.
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back button focus
Ha! Been there, done it, sold the dry suit. Itβs diving the tropics for me!
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back button focus
Ooooh, gloves!!! That's what it's all about! Yeah, well, good luck guys. If you need gloves, the water is too cold π
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back button focus
I had to look up what back button focus meant! π