TimG

Flying from Jakarta to Sorong a few months ago, we used Garuda and they were really good. We paid a few dollars more and went Business and had a ton of gear in the cabin with us. No problem at all. I've used Emirates a lot too for travelling and no problem with them either on weighing. So much depends, we find, on making the luggage look compact and lightweight. My partner, bless her, carries the really heavy stuff and seldom gets asked about it. I just bimble along with the light gear..... She insists we swap airside. Darn.

I'm with Chris on the M43 or APS-C. I switched back from FF (Nikon D800) to APSC (Nikon D500) to get away from the massive lenses and ports. Can't say I have seen any difference in image quality. But... you already have the Z8 which, I believe, is excellent. So...... I'd be very tempted to check out that 24-50/WWL-C combination. Relatively small and compact; or an 8-15 a 140mm port.

Hey, jumper I understand. Like me, my LSD gets cold and I hate people being cold. On the other hand, I also hate seeing my gear getting scratched up. So in a moment of utter nerdiness, I crafted a little coat both to keep my LSD warm and to help it not get scratched. Amazing what you can do with all old wetsuit and a pair of scissors. I may be crazy but I'm not uncaring...... 🤪

As Dave suggests, a 230 dome is a beast. It's easy to think that its is just another inch larger than an 8" dome - but wait till it arrives. They are huge. I used to use one with my D800 setup and a Nikkor 16-35 but after a few trips, gave up on it. It was either the 230 dome or my girlfriend. She refused to travel with it - and can't say I blame her. It was like travelling with an extra family member.... (I exaggerate of course, but you get the idea) I'd go with the 8-15 and a 140 dome.

If I'm setup to shoot macro I use the snoot almost all the time - so leave it on. Like flowdesign, I made a very small modification (see pic) - actually an addition - to my LSD by using a tie-wrap to attach a small shackle at the pointy end. Combined with the loop (and another shackle) already on the LSD, I can clip it on to my BCD or, at a pinch, squeeze it into a Zeagle pocket which I have added to my BCD.

It doesn’t make much difference really. The price is ridiculous though. You can make your own for a few $s. Here’s an article I wrote a good while ago on the forum about how to do it.

Hi Jens A warm welcome to Watepixels! Great to have you with us. I love your two categories. Can I add another though: divorced. Diving became such a crazy passion for me, my wife and I split. Hey ho..... Very best wishes Tim

Paul! Great to see you here. About time. A warm welcome to Waterpixels - your new home!

I'm sure folks will come up with intermediate steps suggestions. My only thought is that an intermediate step is exactly that. It doesn't stop the hankering or aim to go the whole nine yards and get that Z8 system. And then you have a mainly redundant intermediate step which could be hard to sell. Unless I've missed something (entirely possible) I've not heard many good reviews of the 14-24 for underwater use. Nauticam recommend (they would, wouldn't they) the kit lens (!) Nikkor 24-50 with the WWL-C; and I have read many good reviews of this combination. Maybe worth looking at before jumping for that intermediate solution?

I've gone the same route and have had the same debate with myself. I love the Tokina 10-17 which I use as my go-to wide-angle lens on a Nikon D500. I've thought about a Nikon Z8 or Z6III and the Nikkor 24-50 and Nauticam WWL-C, a combination which many folks say is very good. I'd love to have the in-viewfinder review that mirrorless offers especially for snoot-shoots. But then I think of the cost: new housing, wet lens etc etc and think,... naah.

Yep, for shallow, sunny water they can be helpful. HSS equipped strobes can be another way of achieving the similar results - although more expensively probably! I'm not sure about the fitting. Usually ND filters screw directly on to the front of the lens and is therefore inside the housing/port combination and doesn't get wet. Hopefully! If it is the case that the system you use has the filter in front of a wet lens - so effectively it is getting wet - my suggestion would be to install it before you enter the water and then "burp" it by unscrewing it and replacing to release air bubbles once you are at depth and settled. That way you know you have it, that it fits properly and won't disappear mysteriously from a BCD pocket as you descend.

Hi Toque I’m not sure that any specific manufacturer of ND filters makes them for underwater. Hoya filters are good and a reasonable price. The filters are pretty straightforward and underwater doesn’t make much, if any, difference. Essentially they block light from entering the lens. So this means you can use a wider aperture at the same shutter speed, or reduce a high shutter speed - so keeping it inside the fastest sync speed - if in, say, bright, shallow water.

Hey Stan! Welcome to your new home! You’ll see lots of former Wetpixelers here. We’re the refuge! Great to have you with us. Best wishes

Thanks Caoollla. We’ll pursue.

Hi OMB A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. You’ve sure come to the right place for help with emptying your bank account moving to higher end gear! We hope you really enjoy the forum. Best wishes