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TimG

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  1. TimG commented on RichN's the listing in in Marketplace Housings
    For Sale $50.00

    I think I am already

  2. TimG commented on RichN's the listing in in Marketplace Housings
    For Sale $50.00

    Yes! I’ll definitely buy it. Maybe.

  3. I believe all the current generation Retras have the same off-housing remote possibilities: you can run a long fibre optic cable (the most reliable and inexpensive); or you can set it up so that the Retra sensor can "see" a light trigger fired by the camera (more tricky); or use a light sensitive wireless sensor such as the Anglerfish plugged into a Retra which is very sensitive to a strobe being fired nearby and would trigger the Retra.
  4. Very true! It'a huge investment in both cash and emotional energy.
  5. Having bought a Nauticam housing and OM System OM-1ii recently as the base of my new underwater camera setup, I needed an LED trigger to fire the strobes. Although I havn’t used TTL underwater for many years, I did want HSS as I often include the sunball when shooting wide-angle. This usually requires high shutter speed to avoid exposure burn outs. HSS options for an OM trigger seemed to boil down to the Turtle or UWT. The Nauticam flash trigger, although an attractive option, doesn’t provide HSS. I’ve been a fan of UWT for many years as it proved highly reliable on my late-lamented Subal/Nikon system and the man behind UWT, Pavel, is very helpful if the need arises. The o-Turtle 3 (Manual /HSS and TTL/HSS models are available) has the slight advantage of being produced in the EU (Hungary) and the man behind that product, Balazs, is also super helpful. Both Pavel and Balazs are well-known to Waterpixels and their posts much-appreciated. The o-Turtle comes packed in a very neat travel case which contains all the parts: the electronics box, a small wired connector with two LEDs which push into two small circular plastic discs, and double-sided circular tape patches to fasten the plastic disks onto the optical bulkheads. An extra battery is also provided plus a USB-C to C cable and, nice touch, a USB-C to USB-A adaptor. All in all, a very neat package. Full details are here: https://www.trt-electronics.com/shop/o-turtle-3-manual-mobie-trigger-with-99-cd-leds/69/ Installation is relatively straight-forward. Download the relevant Turtle app from the usual App stores, connect the electronics box to your PC or Mac, choose the strobes you plan to use - and the app uploads the relevant firmware. Job done. See the link for more details. https://www.trt-electronics.com/content/media/docs/o-turtle-3-smart-user-manual.pdf Fitting the system into the housing is pretty easy too. Turtle have a video on YouTube to help if necessary. Slide the electronics box onto the camera hotshoe, stick the sticky disks over the strobe bulkheads, insert the LEDs, plug them into the electronics box… and pretty much, voila. I would suggest a small note of caution with one element of the installation which the video does not highlight. Many housing interiors are black, as are the Turtle LED plastic mounting disks, as is the double-sided sticky tape with which you stick the plastic disks over the strobe bulkheads. Not surprisingly alignment is critical and it’s not so easy amid all that blackness. I have to admit my first attempt resulted in the strobes not getting sufficient light to fire. Doh. What worked for me was: 1. Remove the LEDs from the plastic disks 2. Fix one of the sticky patches to the bulkhead side of a plastic disk. 3. Lie the housing bulkhead-side down on top of a smartphone torch with the light shining through the bulkhead. This makes aligning the plastic disc MUCH easier. Stick the sticky patch in place. 4. Remove the sticky protector cover from the bulkhead-side of the sticky patch, centre the plastic disk over the bulkhead using the light from the torch to get an accurate position and push into place 5. Then insert the LED into the back of the plastic disk. 6. And repeat for the second LED/disk. Once the disks were in the right place (!), the strobes fired like a charm. Phew. I thought some readers might find this helpful…….
  6. Totally agree with Chris. A Z5ii, nice though it is, is taking you back to an FF system with all that means for port and lens sizes, costs and moving the gear. I mulled over housing a Z6iii but it came down to the same thing. Taking FF underwater is a much more expensive and travel-unfriendly proposition for any potential gain.
  7. It's almost hard to keep up with the updates. Version 15.5 for LR Classic now available. Adobe report the update: "includes enhanced crop tool, mask refinements, render to DNG option, support for newly released cameras and lenses, bug fixes, and more".
  8. For Sale €250.00 Southern France

    Hi Abycimes I’m guessing this is for a Nauticam housing, right? Just wanted to check….

  9. Late to this party, but as Sokrates says, I too don't think you can wrong with either. I used a UWT for donkeys' years with Subal/D500 and it was completely reliable. Both are well supported by very helpful people (UWT - Pavel; Turtle - Balazs) who are contributors on Waterpixels.
  10. Would a 45-degree finder not work for you? They are brilliant for macro and much smaller than a monitor. Although that said, the Nauticam one is surprisingly large!
  11. I've not dived in Tonga but have dived a couple of times with whale sharks. As @akarnani wisely points out, you are going to be either swimming flat out or hovering close to where they might stop to feed. In either case, keep the gear as minimal as possible. I'd suggest not taking strobes. If it's a flat out fast swim, they are a nuisance and a drag; if the whales are feeding that implies very turbid water, and the backscatter from strobes would spoil the image. As @Dave_Hicks suggests, I too would go with an FE. FE zoom if doable. Definitely a small dome. Whales are big (!) and if you do get the chance to get reasonably close, possible when feeding, you definitely want the FE. Even if you can't get close, being able to get a diver in the image as well as the whale gives a sense of scale. Just keep it simple. I get rid of the strobes but maybe keep a Stix-loaded arm or two for reasonably neutral buoyancy. I usually set up for Manual exposure, 400 ISO, reasonable depth of field, as fast a shutter as I can get away with, then take a few test shots once in the water to tweak the settings. Maybe use burst mode - say 3-5 shots a second; then get ready to swim like you're being chased by a great white...... Great fun. And exhausting. Enjoy!!!!
  12. Urgh, how frustrating. Using 613 fibre, clean knife-cut fibre ends, centring the cable/bush is about all you can do. As Chris posted, I think we’ve been here before with the YS strobes. Annoying.
  13. I don’t think this is just an OM issue. I don't recall anyone on Waterpixels saying tracking underwater worked well on their camera. My gear gets its first runout next month. Fingers crossed. I’m going to be gutted if the OM AF isn’t at least as good as the venerable D500! But I think that unlikely. Will report back……
  14. Sorry but I can’t yet offer a sensible comment on the AF underwater. Mine hasn’t got wet yet. Chris is The Man though - longtime M43 user.
  15. I don't know about "all" the lenses but the Panasonic 8mm is the same mount as the Olympus 60mm and fits on the OM-1 without an adaptor. Without the housing brackets the Nauticam is 230mm wide. The 307mm must refer to the housing plus handles. I can see that for travelling that disconnecting the handles will be very helpful. And it's quick and easy to do.

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