TimG

Hi Octopixel! Well done switching from being a lurker. Good to have you with us. As an ex-"other pixel" dweller, I'm sure there's lots of folks here you recognise. We hope you like the forum. Welcome!

That's interesting. I've heard generally that even with the S&S correction lens and a 230 dome, apertures need to be well stopped down to get good edges.

Yup. Bizarre. I've edited the list above to reflect this. Thanks for checking it out @adrianob

I do pretty much the same as Mike on Lightroom (LR) but for stills. As Mike has written in another post, aside from being an excellent image editor, LR is a tremendous database which is highly customisable. Whilst the idea might sound a bit daunting initially, it's a pretty intuitive program ( and certainly compared to Photoshop) and with a little discipline when importing images/video, as Mike explains, they become pretty easy to find at a later date. You can search and find items in all sorts of ways: which camera did I use; which lens; which date; where was I; through keywords. I know there are members who grumble about the relatively new subscription approach and cost, but I've been using the program since it was first released and it has just gets better and better at, I would argue, not unreasonable cost for what it provides.

Hey quinndo Having moved from the Caribbean to Northern Europe, I can understand your pain! Good to have you with us though. Even if you’re not diving so much, we hope you enjoy the forum. Best wishes.

Hi P Kostelnik A warm welcome to Waterpixels. We hope you really enjoy the forum. Best wishes

Here it is … from @bghazzal on the Prescription Masks thread. Thanks, Ben!

Just had a thought: if vision issues make reading a viewfinder (or say the labelling of housing controls) harder to read, will adding a monitor really help? Won’t it still be the same issue of struggling to focus closely? I guess you can stand back, so to speak, slightly more from a monitor but would that be enough to make a significant difference given the cost? I still love the idea one member suggested of having reading glasses on a bungee cord that you just pull down over your mask as and when needed. I thought that was brilliant!

It appears too, yes. Question is does it work with the lenses and camera bodies we're using? If anyone can comment on that and perhaps provide some testing, that'd be excellent.

I'm with Chris. Yet another piece of gear to lug, o-rings to faff about with and batteries and chargers. Sadly I'm hitting Fading Eyesight age but have found +1.5 diopters bonded into the mask did the trick. Fairly inexpensive, seldom needs a battery replacement or charging, light for travelling - and you soon get used to the head-bobbing movement to switch between normal and SuperVision.

Yep, watch out if you are buying a Kenko TC 1.4. It adds super versatility but just make sure you get the right version. There are two, the DG and the DGX. This is what I have found: D500 (DX) D500 + Kenko TELEPLUS PRO300 DG + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko TELEPLUS PRO300 DGX + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko TELEPLUS PRO300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: Err message. No AF; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko TELEPLUS PRO300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length Nikon Z6 (and, presumably Z7) with firmware 3.0; and Z6III Z6 + FTZ + Kenko TELEPLUS PRO300 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko TELEPLUS PRO300 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: No AF; No aperture readout; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko TELEPLUS PRO300 300 DG + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko TELEPLUS PRO300 300 DGX + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; No aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6III + FTZ + Kenko TELEPLUS PRO 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15mm will not focus or find an aperture Z6III + FTZ + Kenko TELEPLUS PRO 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15mm works fine, will AF and finds the aperture Conclusion a. If you want to use the Kenko with a Tokina 10-17 on a D500 no problem with the DG or DGX model b. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a D500, you need the DGX model c. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a Z6/Z7/Z6III you need the DG model d. Forget trying to use either the Kenko DG or DGX with a Tokina 10-17 on the Z6/Z7 (well why would you anyway) EDIT: Kenko HD Pro @adrianob reports that the HD Pro model does not with the Z6/Z7. No F-Stop, No Autofocus.

Hey Adriano! I'm delighted to see you went with the suggestion! Welcome to Waterpixels. It’s great to have you with us.

The main issue with full frame underwater, by my experience, is the problem of housing a wide-angle lens which delivers decent corners (depending on how demanding you are) and the reduced depth of field. Unless using a fisheye, big ports are needed, typically 230mm, for rectilinear lenses and even then decent edge sharpness isn't a given. The Nauticam wet lenses might get around this but at high cost. I gave up on FF as I could see no advantage to it underwater and went with a Nikon D500 and the Tokina 10-17mm. Topside I use an FF body for sure. The Tokina 10-17 is an excellent lens on cropped frame sensors and is pretty much the go-to lens for wide-angle on DX. Yes, it is a fisheye and I read that you don't really like that. But for most/many u/w wide-angle pics, the fisheye effect is barely noticeable unless you are shooting straight lines on, eg a wreck. Sharpness and colour rendition is excellent. Topside the lens is horrible!

Hey Scott! Better late than never, eh? Good to have you with us. Welcome to Waterpixels. We hope you really enjoy the forum. Best wishes