TimG

Yep, my experience has been that vignetting is the only issue. Diopters shouldn't make any difference. Test out what you have and you'll see if there is an issue immediately. As you say, if there's then a problem, get the credit card out.... 😝

Hey Hans I've switched between a 105mm and 60mm using the same port with an extension ring (EXR) to provide the extra length required by the 105mm. My experience is that the only issue to look out for is vignetting if the EXR is too long. Other than that, no issues. No optical impact.

Chris, there was a post a few days ago about Nikonos servicing. Did you see that?

This is my standard WA travel package: the Tokina 10-17, a TC1.4, 4"/100mm dome and a 20mm extension ring to handle the TC. As Chris says, neat, travel-friendly and very versatile. Image quality is excellent without the TC and very good with it.

Yeah, I'm with Andrej: looks to me that the diffusers soften and widen the beam. Without the diffuser there is very sharp edges with a distinct hot spot. Yes, there is a loss of power but the quality of light looks better, to me, with the diffusers.

Best of luck! Do keep us posted.

Good point, well made!

Hey Michi! Great to have you with us - a warm welcome. As an old Wetpixeler, you'll see lots of familiar names here.

Super piece, Wolfgang. Thanks! Sounds fascinating

I like the framing of that white frogfish. Super neutral space use!

Excellent question! I don't know about the Canon, but the Nikon TCs have a lens element that extends too far beyond the body of the TC for the Tokina to connect. I imagine the Canon might be the same.

Again, DreiFish, super job - for which, many thanks. We'll Pin this so it should make it easier for users to find.

Hi shokwaav The problem with homemade snoots is the aiming system. I think lots of us have had a go - I used plumbing piping. A really fun project but it's almost impossible to aim the snoot correctly even when the strobe has a focussing light. The best snoot/strobe combinations have a circular flash tube with the focussing light in the centre. (Check out the Retra combination). This is very good for lighting the subject pre-flash and then close to ensuring the strobe light will illuminate the same place. if you can manage that with a homemade system, then you have a fighting chance. Otherwise, frustration lies ahead......

Hi Jallie Great to have you with us. Welcome! We hope you really like Waterpixels.

Hey Wolfgang. You'll appreciate I'm sure that we cannot discuss individual cases, but there are a range of options before "banning". That would be the nuclear, DEFCON 5 option which, we hope, we would never have to use. We really have no wish to act as school prefects.

Folks We have said a good number of times on various threads that posts should be courteous and respectful of members' views. Agree to disagree by all means, but this must not cross the courtesy line. We are concerned by a number of comments in the various posts above. As a result we will be using the sanctions we have available to encourage members to stay within the guidelines. We will be in touch with individual members about this. Again, if you have particularity concerns about views expressed which you feel cross the boundary, please do not hesitate to let us know.

Yeah, very unlikely I'd go down the mirrorless route underwater. I really like the idea of the in-viewfinder review capability but the cost of that upgrade (new body, new housing) would be in the region of, say, $5500 - and frankly, it's just not worth it. And then, as you say, all sorts of problems getting old lenses to work on a new mirrorless body (the Tokina 10-17 especially); plus, I have never yet found my image-taking limited by the capabilities of a D500/Subal/Retra combination.

I'm 7 years into a Nikon D500-based system (so APSC) underwater having downgraded from an FF-based system (Nikon D800). No regrets at all. I just can't see that the FF advantages outweigh the disadvantage underwater. Topside it's a completely different matter and I use FF.

Semtex? Man, what a pain. I've not come across anything that hasn't been suggested already. The only extra thought I did have was whether the construction of the flip holder would allow you take the holder end apart from the lens holder end and, push comes to shove, actually destroy the flip holder. I'd guess (dangerous) that the flip holder can be replaced. It might be worth taking it to a garage where they usual have a good range of gear to get two awkward things apart. But that can be pretty destructive too.

Great to have you with us, Martin. A warm welcome to Waterpixels.

Better late than never, Martin!

I think you guys are built with some form of thermal insulation. I'm cold if the water drops below 28 degrees. And, yes, that would be centigrade.

Hi Hans! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. We hope you really enjoy the forum. Diving around Stavanger? Sounds chilly!