TimG

Sorry, Michi, I can’t really help you there. I doubt though that the trigger would be outpaced by the ability of the strobes to recharge.

Problem is, for the moment at least, we can’t find a problem and, so far, no-one else has reported this as an issue. Rich has been checking various logs and nothing has turned up so far. Dave suggested creating a hotspot on a mobile phone and then accessing Waterpixels from your PC via the hotspot. This might eliminate a possible router issue. Did you try that? There’s no lack of effort (or willingness) from the Waterpixel’s team to try and solve this. But The Man is stumped at the moment.

Kudos!

It goes back to the discussion on the use of your images. If it for pleasure viewing, sharing with friends, artistic creation, some sales, then I would argue that for the vast majority of u/w photographers, FF is unnecessarily expensive and creates problems for travelling in terms of weight and volume of gear. But if you feel that not having FF is somehow missing out and just disappointing, then fair enough. But in terms of real, viewable quality, naah. You'd have to be a serious pixel peeper or have very demanding clients to worry about noise, pixel size and density. On a modern camera with modern lenses the water turbidity creates more problems than those three ever will! The series camera bodies and lenses produced now are capable of producing amazing imagery irrespective almost of the sensor size. I came to the conclusion that underwater the FF thing is a marketing trick which harnesses the old 35mm standard. Topside, why not have FF? (Unless you decide the much smaller M43 is handier/travel friendly - and I can sure see the argument for that)

As long as you speak Mandarin.... 😆

Hi Michi I used a UWT on my Nikon system(s) for around 9-10 years. Flawless. It had Manual, TTL and HSS - the latter when paired with Retras. It was easy to install (two small screws), used 2x CR2032 batteries which seemed to live for ever and just sat there and did its job without complaint. I did about 1000 dives with it and never once a problem. Tim

I've used both, Mike. Like so many things with underwater photography, what you can achieve in that environment and what the two cameras might be capable of, are two different things. I used a D800 (FF) for about 4 years and a D500 (APS-C) for 9 years. Other than having more pixels to crop, I honestly could not see the difference for the types of images I use: selling to stock agencies, on my computer, sending to friends, the occasional A2 print.... For me, and I'm sure others will argue, the disadvantage of FF is the size of the gear, the extra difficulty of housing a rectilinear with a huge port - and the cost of the lenses. I know wet lenses can make a difference for wide-angle and might be easier to "house". For that it's worth, I would not go back to FF. I'm actually moving down again to M43!

Hey tiger! Welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have another old timer with us 😜 Yeah, I remember those 36-shot film rolls with maybe 1-2 worth keeping…….. We hope you enjoy the forum. Best wishes Tim

Kinda wonder if Tom still has the RS. Or the Ken and Barbie dolls...... Action Man, anyone? Sorry, back to lubes.... and Retra Maxis

.... and fishmongers?

Perhaps the reflector being made of polished stainless steel helps?

Hmm, this is odd. On my Mac or on a PC running Windows 11 Enterprise, I get the usual Reply box which produces the standard option, in the grey box at the bottom of the Reply, to "Drag files to attach, or choose files..." However Carollla is getting a box with no attach files option (see below). The Waterpixels system isn't showing any errors. Anyone else come across this?

I suspect you’d need an extremely powerful focussing light to overcome the output of 1 or 2 strobes and show a hotspot.

I’m no scientist but general observation leads me to think, no they don’t. I use reduction rings with Retra strobes and can’t recall ever thinking I need to turn them down. My own experience, when using a snoot which is not dissimilar, is that more light is needed because of the way the light is blocked by the constrictions of the funnel. The same could be true even of reduction rings. But like I say, I’m no scientist and perhaps my subjective view is wrong 😜

The reviews suggest it’s good? Underwater? Too many WA lenses are great topside. Underwater? Not so much. Housing them can be a disappointing experience. If only someone would build the Tokina 10-17 for FF and APS-C. And M43.

Hi Odyssea! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. We hope you enjoy the forum. Best wishes Tim

The only thing, for me, to bear in mind with the 8-15 is that it hardly merits being considered as a zoom. It’s really two lenses: a 15mm FE; and an 8mm lens that produces a circular image. The later is interesting but has very limited use. There’s precious little useable zoom between the two. If you add a 1.4 TC it becomes much more interesting as a lens on FF. Used on an APS-C body it’s a great with or without a TC.

There’s been discussion in the past about using these lenses and it’s worth doing a search. I do remember reading about issues with the 14-24. I’m sure you’re right that all three need probably 230-sized domes.

Hi Joakim A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Good to have you with us. Marketplace is a service to members who can buy and sell items. Before you can post on Marketplace , you need to make a total of three posts on other threads. This is part of our system to try and deter spammers. Marketplace is free, essentially a deal reached between buyer and seller. There are no commissions involved as far as Waterpixels are concerned. We always advise caution. Is the seller a long-established member of Waterpixel; does the deal sound reliable; is the payment method something standard or weird? I’ve bought and sold lots of times and always found it easy and. hassle-free. We are fortunate that the vast majority of members are thoroughly decent people. I hope that helps. Best wishes Tim

Hey Tim I always setup for only one type of photo dive: macro or wide-angle. I never try to do both on one dive. If macro, I’d have the snoot on my left-hand strobe and usually the Retra macro rings on the right. I usually only light the subject with one strobe. Typically I’ll use the snoot for most of the dive. It’s not often that I’d take it off. But if I do, I either clip it on to a d-ring on my BCD via a shackle I added to the Retra lanyard; or occasionally, I’ll put the snoot into a Zeagle tech pocket attached to my BCD. The Retra LSD just about squeezes in. Cheers Tim

Hey James! Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels. You’ve come to the right place to help you kit out that Sony. And spend a ton of cash. Very best wishes Tim

The mount is very solid. Oskar told me once you cannot over-tighten them either. Not that I’ve tried!

Hi Alessio! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. I hope you get the info you need. Lots of experts here who I’m sure will be helpful. Best wishes Tim

This is what ChatGPT says: they are quite different accessories for the TG-series cameras such as the TG-7. FD-1 Flash Diffuser LG-1 LED Light Guide Light source Built-in flash Built-in LED Light Short, powerful flash Continuous light Macro stills Better Good, but less powerful Video Not useful as continuous light Excellent Underwater Yes Not useful underwater Working distance About 2–30 cm About 1–10 cm Light control Two flash levels No separate control Best for Underwater/macro photography Macro/video and very close subjects OM System specifically describes the FD-1 as a flash diffuser that gives softer, more even illumination and lists it as compatible with the TG-7, TG-6, TG-5 and TG-4. For your underwater photography I’d choose the FD-1 without hesitation. The important advantage is that it uses the TG’s flash, rather than the relatively weak LED. That gives you enough light for faster shutter speeds and lower ISO, which is particularly useful for underwater macro where you want to freeze subject movement. OM System also specifically confirms that the FD-1 can be used underwater. The LG-1 is really more of a macro/video light guide. It takes the camera’s LED and distributes it around the lens. It’s particularly useful when you need to see the lighting continuously while composing video. So, if you’re using a TG-7 for underwater stills, get the FD-1.

No, not as yet. Got a trip coming up and will try them then. Both seem very good.