TimG
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I'm with Wolfgang on the 45-degree finder. I've been using one on my Subal ND500 housing since 2008 and would never leave home without it. Arguably the best "investment" I've made on my housing. As I've written elsewhere, Nauticam reckon the Nikkor 24-50mm and WWL-C are the way to go for wide-angle on FF. I have no personal experience though.
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Good to have you with us, Reuben. Welcome!
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Hey Reuben I'm a D500 user and, yep, I would not want to switch out of that for a full-frame system particularly for the wide-angle element for all the reasons you outline. I think in your position I'd be tempted to look for a D500 housing and camera. I'd be surprised if those cost $5000. It'd be worth posting a Like To Buy advert here and see what lines up.
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Great to have you with us, Riana. You’ll find lots of ex-Wetpixelites here! Welcome.
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Hey Rich! We're delighted you found us. Welcome. We hope you really enjoy the forum
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Thanks Wolfgang. Good on the dynamic mode fix but bad on the continuing monochromatic thing. And this is v6.0.3 too. Urgh. In the Release Notes for 6.0.2 it suggested that it was possible to modify icons. This sounded better than what was feasible in 6.0. Have you tried icon modification at all? -
Yep, you do indeed, Bio. We ask people to introduce themselves as we think that's a friendly start and a way to try and weed out the scammers and fraudsters. We're delighted to have you with us and hope you find the forum really useful. Welcome!
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Incredible though it may seem, Nikon have just announced a firmware upgrade to that much-loved Nikon D500. The new version, 1.40: Changed the default password displayed on the connection menu after all the camera's settings were reset. The upgrade is available here: https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/544.html -
A new Nikon firmware update is available to v5.10 Nikon lists the changes as: Note: The changes listed below under “Video Recording” and “Controls” are detailed in the Supplementary Firmware Update Manual. Note: Due to the addition of new menu items, some Custom Settings menu items have been renumbered. ■ Video Recording • Hi-Res Zoom is now available when the image area is set to “DX”. • Added a [Power/Hi-Res Zoom collab]* item to the [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU] in position of g10. • Added a [Shutter mode] item to the [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU] in position of g13. • Added [Zebra pattern color] to g15 [Zebra pattern] in the [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU]. • Added options for customizing the brightness information display to g18 [Brightness information display] in the [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU]. * This feature may be available with NIKKOR Z 28-135mm f/4 PZ lenses (as of November 2024). ■ Controls • Added [Save and load power zoom position]* to f2 [Custom controls (shooting)] and g2 [Custom controls] in the [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU]. • Added a [Zoom ring control (PZ lens)]* item to the [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU] in position of f10. • Custom Settings f12 and g9 in the [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU] is now [Assign power zoom]. In addition, [Power zoom speed] has been divided into two items: [Power zoom speed (zoom buttons)] and [Power zoom speed (zoom switch)]*. • The following items can now be saved and loaded using [Save/load menu settings] in the [SETUP MENU]: - [Location data (built-in)] > [Record location data] in the setup menu - [Retouch] > [Customize retouch options] in the playback “i” menu (from “C” firmware version 5.00). * This feature may be available with NIKKOR Z 28-135mm f/4 PZ lenses (as of November 2024). ■ Other Changes • Added [Power zoom speed (zoom buttons)] to the roles assignable to the “i” menu via [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU] > f1 and g1 [Customize <i> menu]. • Fixed the following issues: - The camera would sometimes stop responding if the [C30] high-speed frame capture + option was selected for [Release mode] and the shutter-release button was pressed halfway shortly after zooming in the monitor shooting display (live view). - Pressing the AF-ON button did not end the zoomed-in display in manual focus when: ▸ The AF-ON button was set to either [AF-ON] or [AF-area mode + AF-ON], and ▸ [ON] was selected for d19 or g17 [Half-press to cancel zoom (MF)] in the [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU]. - The viewfinder and monitor shooting displays (live view) sometimes caused overexposures when the standby timer had expired and reactivated. - In rare circumstances, photos would be overexposed when taken using [Recall shooting functions (hold)] assigned to a custom control. - Buffer capacity sometimes dropped with some CFexpress memory cards. - In rare circumstances, the camera would stop responding or the viewfinder and monitor shooting displays (live view) would be corrupted after burst photography when: ▸ [ON] was selected for [Photo flicker reduction] in [PHOTO SHOOTING MENU]. - RAW videos recorded under the following conditions would appear too bright when played back with compatible computer software. ▸ Either [N-RAW 12-bit (NEV)] or [ProRes RAW HQ 12-bit (MOV)] was selected for [Video file type] and [SDR] for [Tone mode]. ▸ ISO 100 or below was selected for [ISO sensitivity settings]. - In slow network speed environments, the camera would be slower to respond when zoomed in or out on photos while uploading to the FTP server if: ▸ [ON] was selected for [Connect to FTP server] > [Options] > [Auto upload] in [NETWORK MENU], or ▸ An option other than [Off] was selected for [Connect to FTP server] > [Options] > [Upload in HEIF format] in [NETWORK MENU]. -
A further update to Adobe Lightroom Classic is available: v14.1.1 This follows soon after v 14.1....... -
The handles are easily removed on my Subal system with their chunky M4 screws. A 5-minute job to take them off or screw them back on. This makes life easier for travelling and cleaning. Like Chris, I usually put a little silicon grease on the threads when putting the system together. Dave's 50/50 water/(white)vinegar mix for soaking the screws if they have been left assembled for a while is a good idea.
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Is the PAL/NTSC thing still a thing? I thought that had gone the way of VHS with the switch to digital
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Yep, that's it Stefan. We ask new members to introduce themselves through the Members Introduction thread and then make two additional posts. The idea is to try and reduce the number of potential scammers who might post an item for sale.... and nothing else. We hope you enjoy the forum
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Thanks for that, Wolfgang. I'd missed the Logitech angle. The lack of support is very disappointing. That said, they did respond to my recent cry very quickly. I found the early Loupedeck support excellent. Far more important though is enjoying the Xmas preps and the kids. Have a brilliant time!
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Urgh. Not good. I found the same thing trying to start LR from the CT: no response. New owner?
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Yeah, please do report back, Antoine. Good luck with the new gear.
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Anyone tried v 6.0.2? Is that any better? The Release Notes look promising but I thought that on v6.0.....
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
TimG replied to Jay-11's topic in Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique
This has been my experience on the last couple of liveaboards: no in-cabin charging of anything. -
Really good to have you with us, Samir. Do post the details if you find good dive spots on your travels.
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Hey Samir! Great to have you with us. A warm welcome. Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated. Sadly my partner’s job took us away from Sint Maarten. I’ve managed to get back though for some diving a couple of times. I hope alls good with you in cruising world.
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Hi Guitarcrazy Welcome to Waterpixels! Great to have you with us and we hope you really enjoy the forum. Tim
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Hi Ian Great to have you with us., Welcome to Waterpixels. We hope you really enjoy the forum. Tim (another Brit retiree)
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Hi Ido Ive not dived Bimini but, in general, I’d say big critters in shallow water are better without strobes unless they come really close. Use ambient light.
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I hear the distant sound of a credit card trying to hide in a wallet...... 🤣
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I'd have thought that the strobe in the 12 position is going to end up lighting the water between the lens and the subject? That's the last thing you want as it'll increase backscatter. I've long given up trying to light the reef no matter how powerful the strobes. My experience is to use natural ambient light for the majority of the width of the scene, and to use the strobes to highlight one or two colourful elements perhaps just to one side of the image. Here's an example where I've moved both strobes ( 2x Inon Z240s) to the 3 o'clock position. I could have got a bit more light on the background with a slightly slower shutter or enhanced the Shadow detail in LR.
