TimG

Hey Adriano! I'm delighted to see you went with the suggestion! Welcome to Waterpixels. It’s great to have you with us.

The main issue with full frame underwater, by my experience, is the problem of housing a wide-angle lens which delivers decent corners (depending on how demanding you are) and the reduced depth of field. Unless using a fisheye, big ports are needed, typically 230mm, for rectilinear lenses and even then decent edge sharpness isn't a given. The Nauticam wet lenses might get around this but at high cost. I gave up on FF as I could see no advantage to it underwater and went with a Nikon D500 and the Tokina 10-17mm. Topside I use an FF body for sure. The Tokina 10-17 is an excellent lens on cropped frame sensors and is pretty much the go-to lens for wide-angle on DX. Yes, it is a fisheye and I read that you don't really like that. But for most/many u/w wide-angle pics, the fisheye effect is barely noticeable unless you are shooting straight lines on, eg a wreck. Sharpness and colour rendition is excellent. Topside the lens is horrible!

Hey Scott! Better late than never, eh? Good to have you with us. Welcome to Waterpixels. We hope you really enjoy the forum. Best wishes

…. and seems to becoming depressingly the norm for software.

Fair enough. 👍

Me too. With or without the booster. I've got about 16 which are 3 years old and 16 at 4 years old. I just bought 16 new Eneloop Pros as I thought it about time...... and I'll retire the 4 year olds to light duties. I've puzzled though, Landvogt, why you don't want to go with the Boosters and just use 8 batteries at a time. They do make a significant difference both its terms of the number of flashes you get plus the psychological effect of knowing you can easily do several dives without a change. My favourite thing about them is how little extra length they add to the strobe. It's insignificant. And they are relatively inexpensive compared to the cost of an u/w system. I travel with a total of 32x AA batteries and 2x 4xAA battery chargers and on liveaboard trips and have never have a problem keeping a complete battery change available for each strobe.

I’m an Inon dive light fan too having switched from a Sola. Mine is relatively pocket sized, uses 3x AA batteries and has a bracket to mount on the housing as a focus light. The size and ease of charging makes it an excellent backup dive light.

Great to have you with us, Marc. A warm welcome to Waterpixels. We hope you really enjoy the forum. Best wishes

Chris is spot on. Shooting in water adds all sorts of complications which impact on the overall impression created. Whilst non (?few) of us want to create the image in post-production, it does have a critical element especially, I'd argue, in wide-angle shots where increases in things like Clarity, Dehaze and Vibrance can have a huge impact on the crispness, punch and wow-factor. MP is not the issue. As I wrote earlier, for many years I used a 24MP D300 and sold A3 printed images that were really sharp and could, I'm sure, have gone to A2. You need a good RAW file for sure but also good post-processing. As Chris suggests, and you may already be doing, shoot RAW, make adjustments to create the style of image you like, re-size to whatever you need for output - then take a look at the critical sharpness issues.

Not a problem. No worries.

Guys, we are starting to approach the amber line in terms of the tone of recent posts. Let’s not get too personal please.

Subject matter aside, what size prints are you trying to achieve? A 24MP camera should be able to produce a good A3 print without too much difficulty. I used to do this regularly with a Nikon D300. If you’re not using strobes at all, it’s almost inevitable that images could look flat and lifeless. I’d argue it’s impossible to light a reef scene but by lighting a small, featured element of the reef, you can create, vibrancy and image depth.

Hi Edy! You made it finally! Good to have you with us. We hope you really enjoy this now relatively new forum. Best wishes.

It’s the EVF review facility which I find really appealing in switching to mirrorless. Terrific not to have to switch between the viewfinder and the screen to review.

Yay! Good Man!!! Thanks.

Hey Martin Like Dave, I like Stix floats. They seem indestructible, a reasonable price, easy to change on the arms - and not too heavy. On arm lengths, I go with 1 x 20cms plus 1 x 13cms for each of my two strobes. I have tried 26cm arms too with a 13cm but found these a bit floppy and hard to lockdown. I've always found the 20+13 combination good for macro and wide-angle.

Wow, that’s quite a landmark, Alex. Congratulations.

.... and you get two reusable wine corks too. Essential for any home. Cheers!

Hi Martin! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. We hope you really enjoy the forum. Best wishes Tim

Good to have you with ups, Johan. Welcome to Waterpixels. I've just read your strobe issue. Annoying, especially with a trip coming up. Sorry, I'm not sure I can be of much help (my only thought was a trigger battery issue) but I'm sure others will weigh in. Standby! Best wishes Tim

As brightnight says, a sharp blade is important to get a clean cut especially if you are thinking of using TTL. A box cutter is ideal.

Fair enough, Chris. I'm sure all system are not alike. It could be, too, that I'm just too lazy to make the changes....