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TimG

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Everything posted by TimG

  1. Argh! Take your time and work steadily....... As the guys say, use whatever you can find to blow out any water, eg, air blower, hair dryer. - Remove any batteries - Wipe the inside of the housing as much as you can with a cloth dampened with fresh water. - The ship will most likely have contact cleaner on board. Spray some on a clean cloth a wipe any electrical contacts in the housing. Check any batteries for corrosion and replace if necessary. - Check the o-ring for tiny splits - Once you've done all that, and the housing is dry, take it for a dive without a camera and check there is no further leak. Fingers crossed. Hard to say what might have caused it. Hopefully just water when you opened the housing. But "a very ting amount" doesn't sound like water drops.....
  2. It's really odd, Sergio,. I uploaded files yesterday without a problem. Can you reduce the file size further and have another go? I don't think a large file is really necessary for us to see what's going on.
  3. Sounds like someone almost did you a favour! Enjoy those Retras!
  4. Hey Sergio We did have some server problems earlier but we think they have been sorted and you should have no problem uploading images now. Tim
  5. LOL!!! Good luck with the servicing. It'd be interesting to know how you get on with it.
  6. Hey! About time you joined us! Welcome. Good to have you with us.
  7. Thanks! Thats the Kenko 1.4 DGX. Yep, the order would be camera, adapter, TC then Tokina. And, yes, you’ll need an extension to create sufficient space between the port and the housing. I’m sure someone will chip in with the required length.
  8. I know the feeling! If you are using the 10-17 on its own the image stand to be broad reef/werck shots with a wide panorama. Add the TC and the shots become narrower. Get the subject immediately in front of the lens/dome so it fills, say, 1/3rd of the screen. This will give a real close-up of the subject but because of the wider-angle will show a lot of the background too. Here's an example
  9. Yeah, by underwater equipment standards, it's a fairly inexpensive way of creating greater capability and variety.
  10. Hi Sergio! Could you post an example? First thought is that the ambient sunlight in shallower water overpowered the strobes output. In deeper water with less ambient light, the strobes would illuminate your subject and produce the sort of colours you were expecting. However in stronger ambient light the strobes will not be as effective and other colours will be evident dictated by the effect of sunlight and not strobes.
  11. Adding the TC gives you effectively a 14-25mm lens whilst retaining the ultra close-focusing of the Tokina. This makes it easier to fill the screen with middle size subjects (eg typical reef fish) while showing them in their habitat. This is Close Focus Wide-Angle (CFWA). This combination produces a very different look to the usual Tokina 10-17 image.
  12. A wide-angle image of a reef, a wreck, a school of fish or pelagic can look pretty spectacular. Adding a diver is even better for that Telling-A-Story type shot The diver often gives an idea of scale, usually confirms the scene is underwater, and makes the picture one to which non-divers can generally relate. The problem can often be, however, “the diver”. Viewed dispassionately, the diver may sometimes actually detract from the image. Legs and fins splayed all over the place, dangling gear, eyes closed, bubbles over the diver’s face, weird positions…. How to get over this? The more underwater photographers develop their skills, the more they realise that time, planning and effort are rewarded with better results. Of course you can go out, shoot away and get lucky. We’ve all been there. But to create a high quality image regularly takes patience and effort. So, the diver in the shot? Same approach: patience and effort. For starters, getting the right diver as a model: comfortable in the water, excellent buoyancy skills, patient, calm…. unflappable, willing to persevere. Sad to say, but generally good-looking and reasonable physique might be considerations too. Then, unless you are shooting radical chic or the 1960s look (love those oval masks!), wetsuits that don’t have holes, gear that looks like it was probably bought in the 21st century. Brief the diver: how you plan to shoot, the type of image you are hoping to achieve and against what background. It helps, of course, if you have dived the site before. Even better if the model has too. Do you want the model as background: just helping put the scene into a context? Perhaps in the background exploring the wreck/reef, pointing a torch to highlight a feature? Or a more close-up portrait-type shot? Agree some basic signals: up, down, left, right, blow bubbles with long, slow exhales, smile (honestly!), repeat, repeat again, stop, slow, go backwards, get close, get further away. I’m sure you can think of others. My partner is excellent at various other signals with which she likes to respond. These normally involve fingers - often a raised middle finger. And so to the water. Buddy check of course. Ripping currents and serious drop-off walls are reasons for extra caution. The safety of you and the model are paramount. So if either of you are struggling or uncomfortable, there’s always another time, another place and another dive. But assuming all is well, find the type of location that you have agreed and let the fun begin. Indicate to your model how you’d like them positioned against the backdrop; the direction of travel; carrying a torch which is switched on; and what point do you want them to stop or is it a swim-by? Which way do you want them to look - at the camera (hmmm, maybe not), at the reef. Maybe though you want to be able to see their eyes which might require some vague contortionist movement. Slow exhaled bubbles add drama and context. No doubt it will take several attempts. Fins in horrible positions, eyes closed, bubbles in front of the mask, pesky fish in front of the eyes, wrong angle…. (see why patience and perseverance come in?). So back off the reef or wreck a little, review what you have with your model, give them a welcome breather - and, probably, do over again. And again. And, probably again. When you get the images home and on screen, you will see just how many are not quuuuuite right. But with luck and effort, you should come home with some images that work. And, fingers crossed, that your model likes too - especially if you want to use their services again. Do give them copies. If it’s been an especially successful or challenging day why not print and frame a copy of a significant image as a thank you? If you’d like to try and sell the images, ask the model if they’d sign a model release which then makes commercial sales feasible. Adding a model to an underwater image helps tell the story of what you are seeing. But it needs careful planning, execution, patience and lots of signals. Even if they are a single middle finger. Top Tips for models: breathe with a slightly tilted head so bubbles move away from the mask straightish legs with one leg slightly bend at the knee. This creates length and elegance. tuck away gear so nothing is dangling big logos/brand names home create intellectual property issues in trying to sell the images de-fog mask exhale slowly - a long bubble stream looks good tuck away long hair to avoid weird ocean-created hair arrangements or hair in front of of the mask
  13. Yep, my experience has been that vignetting is the only issue. Diopters shouldn't make any difference. Test out what you have and you'll see if there is an issue immediately. As you say, if there's then a problem, get the credit card out.... 😝
  14. Hey Hans I've switched between a 105mm and 60mm using the same port with an extension ring (EXR) to provide the extra length required by the 105mm. My experience is that the only issue to look out for is vignetting if the EXR is too long. Other than that, no issues. No optical impact.
  15. Chris, there was a post a few days ago about Nikonos servicing. Did you see that?
  16. This is my standard WA travel package: the Tokina 10-17, a TC1.4, 4"/100mm dome and a 20mm extension ring to handle the TC. As Chris says, neat, travel-friendly and very versatile. Image quality is excellent without the TC and very good with it.
  17. Yeah, I'm with Andrej: looks to me that the diffusers soften and widen the beam. Without the diffuser there is very sharp edges with a distinct hot spot. Yes, there is a loss of power but the quality of light looks better, to me, with the diffusers.
  18. Hey Michi! Great to have you with us - a warm welcome. As an old Wetpixeler, you'll see lots of familiar names here.
  19. Super piece, Wolfgang. Thanks! Sounds fascinating
  20. I like the framing of that white frogfish. Super neutral space use!
  21. Excellent question! I don't know about the Canon, but the Nikon TCs have a lens element that extends too far beyond the body of the TC for the Tokina to connect. I imagine the Canon might be the same.
  22. TimG

    Rosalia Moller

    Cracking image, RomiK. Really atmospheric and lovely composition with that diver and the light.
  23. Again, DreiFish, super job - for which, many thanks. We'll Pin this so it should make it easier for users to find.
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