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dhaas

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  1. I've tried it with hard wired older Ikelite TTL and current sTTL (Inon) and a few other sTTL / TTL systems. Unless in a bright almost surface condition like Chip and Chris refer to better to pick a fixed ISO then sTTL / TTL will do it's thing better. Of course this is based on f-stop, strobe to subject distance, individual subject reflectivity, etc. It's also easier to change ISO on modern mirrorless cameras up or down a bit then continually changing shutter speed / f-stops once you've set up for depth of field, etc. DH Photo of me in Alexander Springs April, 2025 taken by my friend and PRO UW photographer Paul Rudin :)
  2. WOW.......WOW.......WOW.......You guys amaze me how you configure back ups for what many (most?) say you'll never access those files again. EVER...... LOL..... After years of photo agencies submissions and direct magazines, book publishers, etc. submissions (back in the slide days) I realized there's now hundreds to thousands of shooters with the same exact wonderful colorful images from everywhere, just like many of my photos........ So I stopped...... Stopped trying to duplicate what's been done. Stopped duplicating what I myself shot in oceans worldwide. Stopped doing what I call "SS" as in Shampoo Shooting". Lather, Rinse, Repeat....... Since then I challenge myself shooting and editing a few pics from any trip. All I've ever backed up with is a now discontinued Apple Time Capsule that backs up whatever automatically. Whether it's transferred from my iPhone to iCloud (I'm all Apple guy here) so any keepers are either on my newest MacBook Air M2 or 2017 ancient iMac 27" computer (soon to be replaced by a Mac Mini M4 and big beautiful monitor.) Both my machines have 1TB of storage and I'm nowhere near using the space. BUT......I'm a brutal "delete" shooter and critical of my own pictures. First pass on either machine I go through a full screen review. I've worn out the delete key's label on 2 keyboards of the old iMac.,,,,,,,,Granted they're only sent to the DELETE / TRASH file and I might go back but not likely....My initial reaction is usually a firm yes or no..... On my hosted trips I jokingly tell folks they should select 10-20 shots unless you want to include fun people pics, vacation pics or whatever as a slide show. Those stellar picks you proudly show your friends and family. They'll think you're David Doubilet, Brian Skerry or whomever!!!! LOL...... Like many I can search keepers quickly through year / month / trip, etc. I've never bought Adobe Lightroom, Photoshop although I did have Elements for awhile many moons ago. For decades I've use the included Apple Photos App included free with every iPhone, iPad, MacBook, iMac, Mac Mini, etc. The newest Photos version is maybe 95% Aperture which was Apple's PRO program before they threw in the towel to Adobe. Maybe I'm the outlier not keeping a super organized database, keyboarding, etc. I don't know....... As mentioned in many of my posts I'm the laziest but fun loving shooter out there.......Not trying to be a rebel or critic, it's just a choice at almost 72 years old, diving and shooting for 55 years now.... I do wrestle with myself from buying new gizmos and keep shooting the same old images.......Seeing great pics everywhere these days is in everyone's subconscious. We can't help but see a similar scene in front of us but then it will be OUR photo so it MUST be different :) Last year I said I'd never buy a larger sensor camera (MFT, APS-C or FF) but now am back using an APS-C camera. But still no strobes so far. The new Ikelite RC165 and Ecko are tempting me so we'll see.....MUST....RESIST....TEMPTATION..... My recent posted SS Thistlegorm and other Red Sea trip shots were captured using a pair of 2000 lumen video lights. Most images I shared were taken with ambient light and tweaked using the SeaReal App on my iPhone. I was tickled how many looked after some editing back in Photos. The SeaReal App which I've mentioned previously is only for iPhone and only to adjust color. Any additional editing of shadows, highlights, contrast, etc. I do in the Apple Photos App on a computer after Airdropping the SeaReal color adjusted file. Digital has given us the capability to save anything and everything but I contend we shouldn't...... Keep enjoying UW image making however you like and I fully enjoy hearing what others do to finalize their images :) I'll continue in the "less is more" camp whether shooting, saving, editing and sharing :) David Haas
  3. Kristin, Between the lower end Canon R100 and R50 the R50 has Digic X processor and full sensor width 4K (downsampled from 6K.) It's pretty impressive in a low cost package and you can search out land reviews of the video features on YouTube. So I wouldn't rule out a R50 especially with the wonderful Nauticam NA-R50 housing for either stills or video. High end video shooters may need a bit more variables to control but still most of what video shooters require is built in. Plus what are you doing with your videos? I've shared many good looking 1080P clips online. Last thing is for the lower price of the R50 you can buy 2 bodies / 18-45mm IS STM lens that works in the Nauticam NA-R50 housing and have $$$$ left over for a WWL-C or WWL-B or whatever wide wet lens. Just one guy's thoughts :) DH
  4. I agree 100% with Davide DB's assessment. All the things he mentions in today's modern mirrorless models from many manufacturers mean superior image quality whether in stills or video are achievable with APS-C. What Davide refers to as cynical I call practical thinking. I always was a budget shopper as in: "What do I really NEED to make images (or videos) that I'll actually edit, print, share in whatever format?" I read several photography web sites daily to keep up on tech details but don't get sucked down the rabbit hole of spending more $$$$. Previous APS-C cameras even waning dSLR models produced great images. New mirrorless models (I'm a Canon shooter) have much improved DPAF AF and other features. Those were improvements why I bought a Canon R50 plus even lower priced R100 I use underwater. I do think if you're going into a mirrorless R7 II when it comes out would be a good move. The cheap Canon EF-RF adapter means you could use your existing EF lenses seamlessly. I will say the RF lens versions are usually lighter, smaller and in many cases cheaper delivering great pictures. One underlooked macro is the RF85mm F2 versus the longer focal length RF100 especially on an APS-C sensor (Canon is a 1.6X crop factor.) While the 85mm F2 won't do 1:1 I'd ask potential macro shooters how much 1:1 or even more magnification shots do you REALLY take? Even your 60mm 1:1 APS-C designed macro lens with the EF-RF adapter would produce great macros to get started in a mirrorless camera set up. A lot to parse but think you'd be more than satisfied for years choosing a Canon APS-C mirrorless model. David Haas PS - Search under my name for photos taken with my Canon R50 in the Nauticam fixed port NA-R50 housing plus recently a Canon R100 in the Ikelite DLM housing.
  5. Amigos, Back from the Red Sea northern route including Ras Muhammed and the notable wrecks. Shot no strobes this trip, only video lights inside certain wrecks (SS Thistlegorm) and was pleased with the results. Canon R100 in Ikelite DLM housing, Canon RF-S 10-18mm rectilinear lens. Enjoy! David Haas
  6. PS - These days my remaining dive buddies who shoot a mirrorless ILC camera all shoot FULL FRAME (!!!!!!) Mainly because they want to and can afford to no matter what. I only recently went to an APS-C camera after 9 years shooting nothing underwater but 1" sensor compacts. The reasons? Battery life and CMOS DPAF incredible AF over what I'd been shooting with. Also the improved high ISO capability whether shooting ambient light or any flash or fixed lighting. I'm also testing myself against high f-stops so prevalent in most US shooting. Surface photography, especially creative work is 100% the opposite with isolated focus, bokeh, etc. The only place that's seen in UW imaging is macro and also Super macro. But still......We seem obsessed with technical everything in focus more than the "feeling" of images. It kind of bums me out....... One area isolationism is evident are contests....There's many images that make one stop, look, look again and those keep me even interested in hauling any camera set up on trips and underwater. The "thrill of the hunt" as the saying goes...... Stay safe, dive often and have fun! David Haas
  7. Friends, I've only been an APS-C camera owner and shooter over 25 years of digital. I truly have never understood all the obsession with corner sharpness. If that's what you're looking at as THE important element in your image I just don't get it, but that's just me..... I head to Red Sea in a couple days and like last October on a Cozumel trip will attempt to "shoot different". I take a new lowly APS-C 24 megapixel Canon R100 camera, the unbelievably sharp Canon RF-S 10-18mm IS STM lens and compact Ikelite DLM housing with 6" dome port. I have a pair of 2,000 lumen 120 degree beam lights plus a smaller slightly narrower 1000 lumen light especially for inside the Thistlegorm and other wrecks to play with. That's it...... I can borrow a small Inon S220 or Sea and Sea YS-03 flash from some buddies on board our liveaboard if I care to shoot something with flash, or maybe not....... I'm becoming bored with what I've coined as: "SS" for "Shampoo Shooting" as in "lather, rinse, repeat". Been there done that for too long. I don't mean to sound dismissive, again it's just where I'm at after decades of taking pictures. I won't be obsessing over corner sharpness as I also crop every photo I take (well, usually) and fine tune images to my liking. I realize most of this forum has high end talented shooters desiring top technical quality and have the means to buy top shelf gear, etc. Most (all?) are not making a living from photography as hobbyists not selling or licensing photos. Many win contests showcasing their photos and that's great ! Just thought I'd share different thoughts versus debating age old technical discussions that seem to dominate the forums (sometimes, not always......) Keep diving, shooting and more importantly have fun :) David Haas Some pics shot with everything from 1" sensor compacts to APS-C dSLR even with lowly "kit" lenses......
  8. PS - On the Canon R50 there IS a digital teleconverter built in 2.0X and 4.0X. I've played with a shot or two but not to any extent. That could be a feature to try with the Canon RF-S 18-45mm IS STM lens at 45mm focal length. I'd think LESS is MORE as in don't be too greedy trying to tele-convert too far out......Maybe kick in the 2.0X and see how it look on the proposed Jawfish pics...... DH
  9. When I used compacts notably the Canon G7X II and especially the Sony RX100 VII one feature on these fixed lens 1" sensor cameras was their built in digital teleconverters. The Canon G7X II allowed me to get a sequence of a humpback whale jumping at the max tele-converted range but the pics are only really usable for social media / online. By contrast the small Sony RX100 VII has a built in teleconverter that doubles the optical 200mm long focal length to 400mm. It worked great partly owing to the AF in the Sony RX100 VII (being the same as the Sony A9 dSLR. I think.) It had limitations only applicable on JPEG format and Single Shot. But still in Africa I made pics I was really happy even making some large prints (13" X 19") As to the Canon R50 and Nauticam NA-R50 housing perhaps an internal focus lens choice to limit any length change with a teleconverter like the fixed RF 50mm f1.8 MIGHT give Gary an option for the type of shots he's looking to capture. Personally I'd just shoot the spec'd 18-45mm IS STM kit lens at 45mm. Don't shoot at crazy high ISOs and f-stops (maybe ISO 400 and f11 max) and simply crop and edit utilizing any up-rez and sharpening program. That's just me being the world's laziest photographer :) In today's world it's 50% capture the file and 50% editing no matter how simple you choose to do so. Nauticam's decision for the nice low price point Canon R50 using a fixed port was likely a trade off aimed at the typical mirrorless shooter wanting a small simple to use housing that could still use Nauticam's very capable wet lenses. David Haas
  10. My only comment to this is will it apply to selfie stick GoPro / DJI Osmo / Insta36 / iPhone and Android shooters too? What about once a year divers who barely "survive the dive" as I call it? AOW rating means nothing in today's world.....I tink I read somewhere 50 dives is a bare minimum people get their weighting and buoyancy anywhere approaching horizontal and balanced. I think it's window dressing but maybe it'll at least divers will think: "Some old guy told me if you can't feel your feet they're likely destroying the reef below !!!!!! !" Reefs need protection and publicizing this is a good thing overall :) DH
  11. Back from Florida and being almost exclusively a wide angle shooter I tried 3 different wet lenses. Day one I used a friend's Inon UWL-H100 (designed for 28mm focal length, close the Canon RF-S 18-45mm IS STM lens through the Nauticam NA-50 flat port. I also shot another friend's Nauticacm WWL-B lens. As expected with great results. Last day I used my El Cheapo' Sea and Sea .67X wide angle wet lens. Like the Inon UWL-H100 in the Bayonet to 67mm adapter those less expensive wide angle optics vignette a bit and aren't as wide as a Nauticam WWL-B / WWL-C / WWL-1. I let another friend shoot his WWL-1 with buoyancy "donut" and bayonet mount on his. Mated perfectly on the Nauticam NA-R50. He rwas impressed with the Nauticam NA-R50 and I had the * button set up to BBF for him too :) All in all the Nauticam NA-R50 is an impressive camera and package in a small size. The Canon R50 pop up flash synchs to 1/250 and the LCD screen is bright and easy to maneuver around. The 18-45mm Canon lens designed to be used exclusively with the housing delivers fine results. It's a great choice if you'll never go full frame. I also got some great shots of Phil Rudin, my dear friend and fellow UW shooter since 1990 !!! Using his Marelux rigs he's a master of his gear. He let me try an Apollo S strobe as I only shot one strobe. The first few days a single Inon S220 and the last day the Marelux Apollo S. I have to say if "Buy Once, Cry Once" the Apollo S price of $840.00 is in your budget get one !!!! It does Manual, Manual Rapid mode flash (MTL I think it's called) super accurate TTL from my Canon R50's pop up flash, HSS (High Speed Synch if your cameras does that) and more........It only requires two Lion 18650 batteries lightening your travel load for hundreds of flashes per charged set. Hope this helps potential UW shooters in the price point of a fabulous housing / camera combination :) David Haas
  12. There's a feature built into the Canon R50 I have yet to play with on mine in the Nauticam NA-R50 housing. In Canon RED Menu tab there is Digital TeleConvertor feature of 2.0X and 4.0X. I have barely played with the 2.0X on the 45mm zoom end of the Canon RF-S 18-45mm IS STM lens. I'm pretty sure this only works in JPEG mode (have to find details in the 814 page Canon R50 PDF manual, LOL) to be sure. Still, if shooting through the NA-R50 flat port it could be what I call a "poor man's semi-close up" lens option. With today's software including sharpening, uprezzing, backscatter removal, etc. I contend shooting any photo is 50% capture / 50% editing to make photos shine 🙂 I'll try it while diving some Florida freshwater springs next week 🙂 David Haas
  13. Owned the Canon R50 for a few months and still exploring if one rear button can be mapped to back button focus start. Personally I don't find the "feel" of the Nauticam NA-R50 housing trigger and spring tension difficult to 1/2 lock and then shoot. Flash synch speed is 1/250. Nice........ As to having a port for vacuum AND another to rig a data transfer / charging USB-C not likely.... Only one M16 port and my housing has the vacuum system in it. Works fine and popping the camera in an out is a breeze anyway. The housing fixed port hasn't been limiting since numerous macro 67mm choices out via Nauticam's 67mm / bayonet t adapter. For wide shooting a WWL-B, WWL-C lenses (likely a WWL-1 too just not sure of any fdifferences in corners, vignetting, etc. Possibly less expensive wet WA choices with less wide to zoom in full focus coverage, some vignetting, etc. depending what lens you try with the 67mm / bayonet ring. I'm realistic and don't expect WWL-B or WWL-C total quality in this silly experiments. I'll try various ideas mid-April in North Florida's clear freshwater springs and share some pics 🙂 David Haas
  14. As I said if it works for you that's fine. The focus stacking is one I hadn't thought of but might make sense in today's modern cameras with a sessile type creature. Hmmmmm........ DH
  15. I have only used Sony RX100 VII compact but common complaints I hear from Sony Axxx models underwater are in no particular order: * Slower than other camera brands top synch speed with flash * Flash triggers "problematic" * On built in pop up flash if your model has one there's no small tripping flashes versus TTL only. Nikon cameras have a 1/128 on some built in pop up flashes and Canon's do 1/3 - 2/3 - FULL increments plus TTL on their built in pop up flashes. Being a Canon fan I've never had anywhere near the flash problems I read about over decades shooting manual or TTL whether in an Ikelite, Fantasea, Nauticam or whatever housing. I usually had direct hot shoe connection (Ikelite corded ) or took any flash trigger out of the equation using a camera's built in flash which simply works for manual or TTL on Nikon or Canon. The latest obsession seems to be shooting in low or high speed multi-frame flash, even with macro nudibranch shooters (WTH ?????) I can see maybe low speed continuous but seriously, as a "standard" way of shooting? I guess I don't feel the need to have that, but hey, if it's your jam go for it !!!!! Just another nobody's opinion 🙂 David Haas PS - I'll be trying an Ikelite Canon TT5 Optical TTL trigger in a different camera and housing in a couple weeks and will report on results 🙂 I'll use Ikelite DS160 strobes (for years I shot back to the DS125.) Using one or two wide beam strobes despite the size always delivered nice warm images and recycle time was never an issue. Stay tuned!

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