Everything posted by CaolIla
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
OK for me if there is enough place for 8 AA Retra had the possibility to build a battery packlike the new one but not so big
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
An answer from Retra about charging speed --> 3 hours --> 6 x 140 = 840 full power shots 100% charge --> 1050 shots
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
I'm happy with my 2 Retra pro X and my boosters but I regret one thing, it's the time it takes to change the 8 x 2 batteries, it's really painful. It's even more and more painful... I hoped that the power vaults would solve this point, but I find the solution too big/long and to expensive . Given the Retra price, I think a redesign of the battery compartment would have been welcome. A solution to have room for 8 AA from the beginning, without extension. and in this volume to be able to place 18650 or why not 2 type 32650 in order to have a large capacity. I admit to being disappointed by the evolution of Retra's products. My next flashes will certainly be from another brand.
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
How long to charge a pack? In some situation/location it can be a problem. (Raja Ampat with power only a part of the day)
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
👍
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Snoot advice
Yes I have the same "problem" with my DIY snnot with a diaphragm in it. If small aperture of the snoot --> 100% of my retra otherwise is to dark
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FDM 3d printing vs. SLA resin-based 3d printing for waterproof parts
I builded a snoot with o-ring to sealed the inner part containning a diaphargm an some lens. PETG with Epoxy resin and O-Ring it works well .
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Info and where to buy in Europe the new Inon UCL-G100 SD and UCL-G55 SD Close-up Lenses
for sure... but i'll buy the g55. My wife will be able to chose the best lens depend of the subject. For a small nudibranch, something moving slow i'm sure the g55 will be nice
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Info and where to buy in Europe the new Inon UCL-G100 SD and UCL-G55 SD Close-up Lenses
A small sample from the gopro from my wife. with the G100 @Elvandar hope it will help for your decision https://www.flickr.com/gp/huguesbrun/SUZ6D338v1
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
Last trip I change the 8 batterie each evening --> after 3 dives --> beetween 200 and 400 flashes.. sometimes the batteries status was red --> time to change AA Eneloop pro. I use 2 8x chargeur flat/small and not heavy... i'm happy with that. The problem is for me the time I need to change the 16 batterie... 😞
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NEW - Backscatter Hybrid Flash
And why didn't the strobe manufacturer use some 32650 ? and why not put 2 of then in the strobe and add the management in the strobe and not in the batterie pack ? Sorry if it's a stupid question . I use 5 bigblue torch with 32650... very happy of this solution
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
Good we don't need a charger...
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Editing - any value in a tablet and stylus?
I found a Loupdeck for LR much more indispensable as a Wacom. A Wacom is usefull for "big" editing but not for the base functionnality of LR. Perhaps for removing backscatter ok.. but personnaly I didn't do that and if I do that only for a small amount of. I didn't spent 1 hour or more to modify a photo. If I'll need to choose beetween removing the Loupdeck+ or my Intuos... no seconde hesitation... Intuos will be removed.
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Editing - any value in a tablet and stylus?
I have a a Intuos size a little bit bigger as an A4 paper for the active surface. I have use it in the past for Photoshop.... for some picture editing... and very rarely in LR. Why I have a Intuos... then in the past I worked with such tablet together with CAD software... It was logical to do the same for the picture.... But I don't used this since years... if I used it it's not more than 1 or 2 time a year now. She is installed and allways ready to be used, I only need to take the pen and move the keyboard on the side... As you can see I can't recommend such input device, but in some case, specialy if you work allready with. It's only my opinion
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is wetpixel.com gone?
For me it's works... i'm in Lembeh
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
With the booster no problem with the recycle time...
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New Inon lens UCL-G55 SD - opinion
FYI I build and test a support for the lens when it is no on the GoPro. First result, it's work's. I'll give some info when i'm back at home. In 3D Printing 😉
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Info and where to buy in Europe the new Inon UCL-G100 SD and UCL-G55 SD Close-up Lenses
Hi Yes I've buy the G100, and now we are in Indonesia I'll post some small RAW vidéo What I can say is that I'm happy from the results. I'll probably buy the G55 before our next trip. I'm not the person who is using the lense, it's my wife... she need a little bit training but the first result are good.
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Juvenile Something?
Same nothing
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
Yes... but if it's possible to have a "big" batterie and shoot the double or more as with 8 AA batteries why not
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3D Printed Port Float Collar
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3D Printed Port Float Collar
I apply the epoxy resin, then I cover with carbon or glass fabric. Once the curing is done, I sand and finish with one or more coats of finish. It's a bit of work and especially time... but what a satisfaction to have THE piece as imagined
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3D Printed Port Float Collar
Salut François FLEX/TPU --> Change the volume if you down. PETG is really good for parts going in water.
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3D Printed Port Float Collar
I don't have any experiences in printing ABS... PETG is realy good underwater it changed my live,,, PLA don't like humidity... for PETG it's not a problem. PETG is easier to print I print some "big" part... it's long 6 or 7 hours.. The last arm are in 3 parts.. for the 3 parts i need more or less of 15 hours.
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3D Printed Port Float Collar
hi @Dave_Hicks don't be to optimistic I made a lot of complex things in 3d printing for underwater what I learned is 1) 100 feet (30 m) it's "nothing" the problems appear for me deeper as 40 m 50 m and if my part are ok after a dive at 60 m i'm happy 2) Epoxy is fine but after 50 , 100 or more dive you can have some water comming in. I change the methode make the 3d printing lighter but cover with fiberglas + epoxy or better carbon + epoxy Your 3D part is really "simple" if you are lucky it will probably be stable for 100 or more dives. An other important point is if you dive in salt water or not... in salt water a little bit water in the structur of the part means the dead of this part. When water evaporate... the salt cristal... will break the material... a little bit.. and the next time a little bit more.... and after some dives more... you can put you 3d part in the trash... My past experiences bring me to print now in PETG Carbon and cover with carbon and epoxy like for this new floating arm with fiberglas for the strobe going throu the arm null The arm before with PLA and fiberglas cover was stable during 2 years -->more than 200 dives... before water comes in after a implosion... the same problems at the same place for both arms... only 10 dive (40m) after. I made some small change in the structure of the piece and change the material For this part you see I hope I will have no problems during more a 400 dives...