brightnight

This is what I do for my Kraken 7" monitor and I really like it. I had a 5" clamp previously and it wouldn't hold the monitor by the 3" works well. I flip the screen upside down and then flip the image upside down in the monitor options so the image is right side up to me. I almost did a hard mount but I like the ability to move the monitor position depending on my orientation to the camera, sun, etc. Sometimes I'm looking straight down at the monitor when I'm holding the camera on the bottom and I want the monitor to face me, other times it's way out in front of my and I adjust the monitor to a different angle for a better view. The cable orientation isn't ideal but works pretty well overall. I do find that my monitor feed cuts out sometimes during a live feed or when reviewing certain specific pictures for some reason. Haven't figured that part out yet but my 5DIV is set to output 24FPS which is the lowest it'll go. UltraLight Camera SolutionsUltralight AC-CSL long clamp with 1/4"-20 course-thread f...The Ultralight AC-CSL is a long ball clamp featuring a 1/4" course-thread black knob, designed for secure and stable connections in both cinema and underwater camera arm systems. With the added reach

Here's a picture of my current button setup on my Nauticam 5D housing. I would think having the BBF right next to the shutter would be ideal, then I could fully grip the handle instead of the second picture where I have three fingers on the handle and am straining to hit the BBF and the shutter. I had set the BBF so you have to hold the button down for it to work and when you release the button it's no longer active. Adjusting the AF handle might migt a big difference. Do I just use unscrew the hex bolt at the end of the rod, adjust the AF handle position, and then re-tighten it?

I have loved using Back Button Focus (BBF) for photographing wildlife on land and in the water I shoot with a Canon 5D markIV and nauticam housing. It seems like BBF would have many of the same advantages for underwater use, including that if I'm shooting during the day and then it becomes evening past sunset, my camera doesn't have enough light to focus and will refuse to take images (I don't want to carry a focus light). With BBF I would never have that issue, I could set the focus manually with light from a strobe in video mode and never worry about it again. However, when I setup my 5D for BFF and put it in my housing, trying to reach the AF-on Button and the shutter at the same time really strains my hands and there's no way I would want to do that for 5+ hours straight. I could modify the lever on the outside of my housing to be more ergonomic and reach close to my shutter, see about reassinging it to another button, change the AF settings underwater, or just go back to having the shutter half press be the focus. How many folks are using BBF and does anyone have any suggested work arounds for the placement of the shutter and the AF-on button? Rassinging the AF to the * button would be even more challanging Here's a pic of me trying to hit the shutter with my pointer finger and AF-on button with my thumb at the same time. I basically can't grip the camera and can barely reach both:

Bump

The bolt for strength is a super smart idea!

I know that the larger the dome the easier it is to take split shot but is the difference between a 200mm (8") and a 230mm (9") dome negligible? I've also heard of some people building their own large domes strickly for split shots. Are there particular resources someone can suggest on a DIY dome for split shots or has anyone done it before?

Looking to pick up a used Nauticam Flash Trigger for Canon DSLR. I know someone has one out there!

Very interesting. I'm suprised to hear the the 28-60 is sharper than the 28-70, that's news to me! Now I'll have to dig in and do some reading. Not sure if the 28-60 only applies to Sony or if it also applies to a canon DSLR like the 5D mkIV I'm using. Nowhere in the Canon 120 Port Chart do they mention the 28-60 and had I purposely picked the 28-70mm for the sharpness and very little for the zoom range since I'm almost never shooting at 70mm.

I currently shoot with a 28-70mm/WACP-1 and I’m trying to weigh the pros/cons of getting a 8-15mm fisheye with a 1.4x teleconverter and using it with the 180mm dome I already have. As far as I have been able to tell, the 8-15mm doesn’t have any real benefits in terms of minimum focus distance or FOV which are two critical pieces for my style of shooting in rivers and streams. The only benefit seems to be the image style of fisheye which is nice but my understanding is that doesn’t happen at 15mm. If the lens was at 15mm all day I think I'd be better off shooting the WACP-1 as the image quality would be higher. The 8-15mm fisheye setup runs about $800-1000 if I use the 180mm dome I already have so if there isn’t a real benefit that I might just stick with the WACP-1. I don't love extreme distortion but I do like minimal effects of a fisheye has which emphasise the center of the image, so I'm guessing I'll be in the 11-15mm range most of the time. What other factors should I consider and would you add a 8-15mm/1.4x teleconverter into the mix? Camera: Full frame DSLR (Canon 5D mark IV) I made this chart comparing the two, if it is inaccurate please let me know: null

Thank you!!

Looking for a Canon EF 8-15MM fisheye N120 setup or parts of a setup which include: -Extension ring 50 -Kenko TELEPLUS HD pro 1.4x -Canon EF 8-15mm f4 fisheye -Nauticam 19538 ( Zoom Gear: Canon 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye with 1.4 Teleconverter)

Still looking.

I struggled with cables at first. You should be able to have a fiber connected to your camera and see the light come out the other end, this way you can take the strobe out of the equation and just focus on the fiber cable. I ended up needing to cut mine with a very sharp blade, too many reflections from the first time I made them when using a dull blade and the light wasn't getting through. As @makar0n suggested, I'm a fan (because of this site) of making your own if you're not in a rush. Ther are super easy to make, cheap, work well, and you can make any custom length and also have spares without breaking the bank and they will give you a good understanding of how they work and what to do if they aren't working.

Looking to pickup a used Nauticam Canon Flash Trigger for DSLR (cannot be the mini flash trigger). Shoot me a PM if you have one. Thanks, Pete

I 3D printed some for my 330's from files on Thingiverse that are also posted on here. They seemed to work ok but was my first time doing macro and I wasn't great at it. Can always modify them as needed.