brightnight

Thanks for responding. I have my strobes turned all the way down and diffusors to limit the light to the fish as much as possible because as I mentioned these fish are super shy. I haven't dialied in the strobe power except to say that the photos look reasonable and I've aired on the side of caution with light so I might be able to come up a bit on strobe power but I haven't had a limited number of chances to experiment. My thinking was to try to keep a fast enough shutter speed to stop blurring so I can freeze a fish digging out a redd, but now that you mention it I'm thinking about shutter speed as it related to daylight but at night where the only light comes from the strobes and a little from the moon, so it doesn't matter and I can move up to 1/100th without issue. If you have a favorite red focus light please post a link.

Thanks for the suggestion, I tried a white focus light, haven't tried a red focus light but that's a good idea. I'm photograhing salmon and my understanding is they can probably see red but it's worth a try. I don't believe they can see IR but my camera has an IR filter that I would not want to remove/modify. If anyone has a favorite red focus light please post a link.

I’m looking for advice on close wide-angle photography at night. I’m photographing fish in a river which are very light sensitive so I cannot use a focus light but an occasional strobe is ok. I’ve found that I can use back button focus to first focus on an object at a set distance and then try to get the same distance away from the fish and take the image but that doesn’t always work because the total depth of field is very small. Since the fish are very light sensitive I can only take an image ~once a minute so if my distance to the fish is off a little and it’s out of focus then the fish might move and I might miss that opportunity. Are there any other options I should try? According to a DOF calculator, shooting a subject that’s 1ft away at F/4 gives me .96” (24mm) of total depth of field which is not a lot of wiggle room to get the distance to my subject correct. Shooting at F/8 gives me 2 inches (50.8mm) of total depth of field which is better but I’d have to crank my ISO way up and still isn’t a lot of wiggle room to get my focus correct. It seems I have no good option and my only real path forward is to decrease the aperture and crank my ISO up while keeping my shutter speed as low as possible but would love to hear how others do it.

Welcome! Love this forum and I'm out of Boston and shoot with a Canon 5D. Love to see some trip photos if you have a chance to post them.

This is what I do for my Kraken 7" monitor and I really like it. I had a 5" clamp previously and it wouldn't hold the monitor by the 3" works well. I flip the screen upside down and then flip the image upside down in the monitor options so the image is right side up to me. I almost did a hard mount but I like the ability to move the monitor position depending on my orientation to the camera, sun, etc. Sometimes I'm looking straight down at the monitor when I'm holding the camera on the bottom and I want the monitor to face me, other times it's way out in front of my and I adjust the monitor to a different angle for a better view. The cable orientation isn't ideal but works pretty well overall. I do find that my monitor feed cuts out sometimes during a live feed or when reviewing certain specific pictures for some reason. Haven't figured that part out yet but my 5DIV is set to output 24FPS which is the lowest it'll go. UltraLight Camera SolutionsUltralight AC-CSL long clamp with 1/4"-20 course-thread f...The Ultralight AC-CSL is a long ball clamp featuring a 1/4" course-thread black knob, designed for secure and stable connections in both cinema and underwater camera arm systems. With the added reach

Here's a picture of my current button setup on my Nauticam 5D housing. I would think having the BBF right next to the shutter would be ideal, then I could fully grip the handle instead of the second picture where I have three fingers on the handle and am straining to hit the BBF and the shutter. I had set the BBF so you have to hold the button down for it to work and when you release the button it's no longer active. Adjusting the AF handle might migt a big difference. Do I just use unscrew the hex bolt at the end of the rod, adjust the AF handle position, and then re-tighten it?

I have loved using Back Button Focus (BBF) for photographing wildlife on land and in the water I shoot with a Canon 5D markIV and nauticam housing. It seems like BBF would have many of the same advantages for underwater use, including that if I'm shooting during the day and then it becomes evening past sunset, my camera doesn't have enough light to focus and will refuse to take images (I don't want to carry a focus light). With BBF I would never have that issue, I could set the focus manually with light from a strobe in video mode and never worry about it again. However, when I setup my 5D for BFF and put it in my housing, trying to reach the AF-on Button and the shutter at the same time really strains my hands and there's no way I would want to do that for 5+ hours straight. I could modify the lever on the outside of my housing to be more ergonomic and reach close to my shutter, see about reassinging it to another button, change the AF settings underwater, or just go back to having the shutter half press be the focus. How many folks are using BBF and does anyone have any suggested work arounds for the placement of the shutter and the AF-on button? Rassinging the AF to the * button would be even more challanging Here's a pic of me trying to hit the shutter with my pointer finger and AF-on button with my thumb at the same time. I basically can't grip the camera and can barely reach both:

Bump

The bolt for strength is a super smart idea!

I know that the larger the dome the easier it is to take split shot but is the difference between a 200mm (8") and a 230mm (9") dome negligible? I've also heard of some people building their own large domes strickly for split shots. Are there particular resources someone can suggest on a DIY dome for split shots or has anyone done it before?

Looking to pick up a used Nauticam Flash Trigger for Canon DSLR. I know someone has one out there!

Very interesting. I'm suprised to hear the the 28-60 is sharper than the 28-70, that's news to me! Now I'll have to dig in and do some reading. Not sure if the 28-60 only applies to Sony or if it also applies to a canon DSLR like the 5D mkIV I'm using. Nowhere in the Canon 120 Port Chart do they mention the 28-60 and had I purposely picked the 28-70mm for the sharpness and very little for the zoom range since I'm almost never shooting at 70mm.

I currently shoot with a 28-70mm/WACP-1 and I’m trying to weigh the pros/cons of getting a 8-15mm fisheye with a 1.4x teleconverter and using it with the 180mm dome I already have. As far as I have been able to tell, the 8-15mm doesn’t have any real benefits in terms of minimum focus distance or FOV which are two critical pieces for my style of shooting in rivers and streams. The only benefit seems to be the image style of fisheye which is nice but my understanding is that doesn’t happen at 15mm. If the lens was at 15mm all day I think I'd be better off shooting the WACP-1 as the image quality would be higher. The 8-15mm fisheye setup runs about $800-1000 if I use the 180mm dome I already have so if there isn’t a real benefit that I might just stick with the WACP-1. I don't love extreme distortion but I do like minimal effects of a fisheye has which emphasise the center of the image, so I'm guessing I'll be in the 11-15mm range most of the time. What other factors should I consider and would you add a 8-15mm/1.4x teleconverter into the mix? Camera: Full frame DSLR (Canon 5D mark IV) I made this chart comparing the two, if it is inaccurate please let me know: null

Thank you!!

Looking for a Canon EF 8-15MM fisheye N120 setup or parts of a setup which include: -Extension ring 50 -Kenko TELEPLUS HD pro 1.4x -Canon EF 8-15mm f4 fisheye -Nauticam 19538 ( Zoom Gear: Canon 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye with 1.4 Teleconverter)