brightnight

I struggled with cables at first. You should be able to have a fiber connected to your camera and see the light come out the other end, this way you can take the strobe out of the equation and just focus on the fiber cable. I ended up needing to cut mine with a very sharp blade, too many reflections from the first time I made them when using a dull blade and the light wasn't getting through. As @makar0n suggested, I'm a fan (because of this site) of making your own if you're not in a rush. Ther are super easy to make, cheap, work well, and you can make any custom length and also have spares without breaking the bank and they will give you a good understanding of how they work and what to do if they aren't working.

Looking to pickup a used Nauticam Canon Flash Trigger for DSLR (cannot be the mini flash trigger). Shoot me a PM if you have one. Thanks, Pete

I 3D printed some for my 330's from files on Thingiverse that are also posted on here. They seemed to work ok but was my first time doing macro and I wasn't great at it. Can always modify them as needed.

Appreicate the adive, I'll try another cable. For my last trip I used a brand new cable and still had issues but I can try a normal HDMI cable too and see if I have issues with that. The fact that the monitor cut out at different rates sometimes often and sometimes going minutes without cutting out does suggest a cable issue as opposed to the camera having trouble putting out signals over HDMI that far. Thanks for the tip!

I'm still puzzeled about the performance of Canon 5D Mark IV with a monitor when shooting in low light. Once it gets quite dark, everything on the monitor appears bright and well-lit, but the camera perceives the scene as dark as it actually is and requires a focus light to achieve focus. If the monitor can display a clear image, why can't the camera temporarily increase gain or sensor sensitivity to lock focus before reverting to its set ISO and shutter speed? Or is there a setting in most cameras that can do this that I'm not aware of? Seems like relatively simple feature. As I understand it some mirrorless cameras have a feature called "low-light AF assist" which does basically what I described but the 5DmIV does not.

I tried these and they screwed down tightly on my 330's, worked well.

Sorry to heat your kit was stolen, that's a real bummer. There was a post on the Underwater Photo and Video Equipment Buy & sell page on Oct 13. Doesn't appear to be your stolen kit but wanted to pass along the listing in case you wanted to purchase it. I haven't bought from this group of seller so use your discretion.

Just finished 18 days and almost 100 hours of use with my DIY strobes cables and didn't have one issue. Abused them on the rocks in the shallows and in the pack while bushwacking into remote locations. They performed flawlessley. Thank you so much to everyone who has contributed to this thread!! I never would have made my own cables without these posts.

Two additonal questions have come up while using my monitor and curious if anyone has suggestions. 1) Now that the image on the monitor looks so good (which is ideal for framing images), I often find myself thinking it would be nice to change the camera settings in photo mode so that the image is exposed to what the monitor is displaying because the monitor looks so nice. I assume there's no way to output the adjustments my Kraken 7" ultrabirght monitor is making from the camera to make the image look so nice so I can set the camera to be the same. My workaround is to test fire a shot and look at the picture, then adjust as needed but wondering if there is a better way so I don't have to waste battery life firing off shots. I know I want my cake and eat it too but someone here might have a trick up their sleeve. 2) My monitor often goes gray and says lost signal from the camera. Sometimes it seems to go through phases where it happens often but mostly it seems to cut out for a few seconds once a minute or so like the signal strength from the camera dropped out and then comes back. Thinking it could be too long of a flat ribbon cable in the housing (it's the one that came with the monitor), maybe the flat cable was creased and that's interferring with the signal, or maybe the HDMI cable is stretched and thats causing interferance between conductors inside, anyone else seen anythng like this or have a suggestion on what to do?

Exposure simulation was it! Thank you, was out today and made a massive difference now that I can actually frame a shot 🙂

As I understand it, my kraken monitor diplays the picture as my Canon 5dmIV sees it in live view. However, the camera is set to full manual and isn't accounting for light from the strobes so everything the camera sees is very dark and therfore everything on the monitor appears very dark. Since everything appears dark on the monitor even though the brightness of the monitor is is set high enough, framing images is impossible because I can't see anything. How can I keep the camera settings the same while have the monitor compensate or what are my options? Is this where selecting a lux table in the monitor would be helpful or some type of exposure compensation?

Love it, might have to make one of these for my 7" monitor!

During a typical dive I expect the air temperature to be 40-50F (4.4-10C) but I will be in the water (shallow) as long as possible, from morning until dark. At the coldest the air temp will be 30F (-1 C) at night and 52 F (10C) during the day.

I'm preparing to photograph in ~50F water (10C) and worried about my housing fogging. What steps should I take to prevent or minimize it? The humidity where I’m diving is 94% and the dew point is 50F (10C). I can’t do much about the humidity where I will be staying (hardly have electricity), but I could leave my housing open in the car the night before so it stays cold and then close it up in the morning. Any other suggestions for preventing fogging? Silica gel packets are an option too. Side Note: While I can put my housing together the night before, I will have to open it once or two a day to replace camera batteries.

That's a good idea, probably my best bet in the short term but I was already grumbling about a $200 AOI lens for a GoPro 🙂 I need to do more investigation....not a big fan of fisheye video look but maybe for one camera it would be ok or I can wait it out depending on when backscatter gets them in. I assume the 52mm adapter with the AOI lens as @Davide DB had done won't work and I'd have to use the Inon SD Adapter mount, which won't work with the Digipower packs. Grrr.