brightnight

Thanks for the info, I do have a monitor and love shooting with it so that's a plus. I liked the mount but wasn't sure if I'd be shooting forward or sideways. Sent you a PM for the mount files.

Thanks for linking that thread, I'll be shooting photos. WHat mount are you using? I'm working on a project where the my goal is to use the DPV to: A) Locate specific fish species to photograph B) Follow these fish and photograph them. The two big challanges to this for me are: 1) I've used a DPV a handful of times (including a class) and a spent a lot more time in the water with the camera (but never used them together) 2) I'm not sure how much the fish will be swimming vs pausing or hanging out so I don't know how much time I'll have to potentially remove the camera from the DPV. I tend to think I'll mostly shoot with the camera on the DPV but will have occasions where I will want to take the camera off to shoot, such as when the fish is relaxing on the bottom. Water will be 50F so will be using drysuit and dry gloves. I will be spending as much time as possible in the water with the DPV and DPV/camera over the next month to get as much time on them as possible before the project begins. From my first look online this was the best looking image I could find but haven't been able to find a large swivel base plate like:

Has anyone mounted a SLR/mirrorless camera to a DPV? Not looking for small GoPro action camera options. Curious what works well and how much filming/photographing was done with the camera still mounted to the DPV vs removing the camera from the DPV to shoot. Also considering building my own mount too.

THIS IS AWESOME!!!

Nope, just wanted to experiment with larger domes and figured if I was going to make something I might as well go big, figured the larger I went from 8" the bigger the difference and if people are selling them there might be supplies available off the shelf to DIY, I assume they aren't getting custom molded domes. Truthfully I just want to experiment with one to see what it's like which is why I want to build one since I don't know how practical or useful it will be.

Has anyone built their own dome port? I've used an 8" dome but was looking to test a ~17" dome for split shots on my Nauticam N120 DSLR housing. I looked at purchasing a dome port of this size and the Matty SMith ones look awsome but they are $2k+ which is way out of my budget. I've read a number of posts and watched videos online but didn't find anything on this forum. I've read the "Barry Guimbellot designs DIY small dome port for CFWA" and it looks like there might be more info on wetpixels but I didn't get my account approved before it went down so I cannot access those forums.

Buzzer has saved me twice, once with a 5/10 hood. If you can post a picture close up of the battery side we might see something. I've had the battery tab not making contact before and resoldered it to get it working again.

I currently shoot with a full frame Canon 5D mark IV DSLR and while it will be a while before I switch to mirrorless, I'd like to better understand what switching to mirrorless would entail. I've read a number of articles and posts on the switch to mirrorless but still have some confusion on gear crossover. I'm mostly curious about how much of my existing gear from my nauticam 5DmIV setup including EF lenses/ports/extensions rings could be used with a new nauticam mirrorless housing. Comparing nauticam ports charts between the Canon N120 and Canon 120RF port charts, it appears there is a lot of crossover and I assume my existing N120 ports would work although entesion rings may change. I know you can purchase EF-->RF adapters which would allow me to use my existing EF lenses on a RF mirroless camera, but my understanding is those adpaters make the lenses longer compared to a typical RF lens, so I'm confused as to if/how that fits into a nauticam port since lens size, if the extension listed in the port chart would be the same one that's listed for the RF lens, and more importantly if using an EF lens with and EF-->RF adapter would decreases image quality. If the obvious option is to go with all RF lenses please let me know.

I had my (older) nauticam housing serviced last year because the buttons were getting extremely gritty from all the dirt I have been diving in. Cost~$750 which was almost as much as I paid for the housing. They did a great job but didn't have a choice, it needed to be done. If you aren't having issues, personally I'd keep using it and watch your vacuum levels.

I don't shoot either one but did read a few articles on the differences. This one is worth a read: https://interceptor121.com/2025/03/26/1263-reasons-not-to-get-a-sony-a1-ii-for-underwater-photography/

It only started happening in very cold water. In one week I went from shooting in 46F water (7.7C) to 38F (3.3C) water and that's where I noticed the big difference. I have 4 Canon batteries (not knock offs) that I rotate through and they all started dropping out after 600-700 shots in the colder water. Can't say I blame the batteries, a chemsitry that works in very cold temps is probably very different than hot environments. A new battery would almost certainly have more capacity although my batteries are only a year old and have been cycled ~40 times each so some wear but not that beat up. Typically once I'm in the water I'm in for 4-6 hours which means the camera gets cold and stays cold and I often the reason I get out is I have to change a battery which happens more in the colder water. I'm sure the battery self warms a little when it's being used but not nearly enough for the temperatures I'm seeing. Obviously anytime I have to open up my housing, especially in the middle of the woods in a drysuit only increases the risk that my housing might flood, which I would like to minimize :)

I don't believe the 5DmIV has the ability to charge when the battery is in the camera. That's a good idea but I also have all of my bulkheads in use. One for a vacuum port and one for an HDMI connector for a monitor. If I end up switching to mirrorless and have a housing with more bulkheads I will definetly try that. I have started seeing the battery suddely die in cold temps instead of the normaly battery level warnings. One of the joys of cold water I guess! Gripped bodies is a good idea too, definitely not something I thought to consider when buying a camera or housing.

Does anyone have any special tips or tricks for dealing with camera batteries in cold water? I was in 37-40F water and noticed the battery life of my Canon 5dMIV decreased dramatically. Normally I can shoot 1200-1400 shots on a single battery in 50F water and I was only getting maybe 600-600 in the cold water. Since my nauticam housing is aluminum and the air inside is pulled to a vaccuum, any heat will be exchange quickly from the housing to the water and so something like hothands is unlikely to work. So far I've come up with: -Keep battery warm and camera housing out of water for as long a possible before shooting, specially if air temps are warmer than water temps -For the 5D Canon makes a newer LP-E6NH which has a bit more capacity compared to the standard LP-E6. Assuming temp performace is therefore also slightly better but haven't confirmed

Appreciate the info Isaac, the WACP is a beast in these small streams and just bushwhacking it in takes a ton of energy so I probably need to experiment with different options there. If I had a sony mirrorless I'd probably just use the WWL but for now that's not an option. Weight belt is a good idea, would be a lot with the drysuit as you mentioned but I haven't tried that yet and have all the weights for diving and that could be a great option for sites with easy access. My biggest challenge with visibility is actually locating and approaching the fish. I usually spot them first from shore at a distance so I know roughly where to go without disturbing them, but once I get in the water and start slowly moving toward that area, it’s hard to remember exactly which redd they were on when they all look the same and with poor visibility I can only see one or two redds at a time. In the cold water knowing that I might be waiting 30 minutes on the wrong redd is a tough sell but maybe I need to be more patient and I'll win some and lose some. Apprecaite all the advice, you guys rock! Everytime I think I know my potential options there are fantastic new ideas here that surprise me.

Thanks for the suggestions! I reached out to Tom and something like the reef hook could work. I probably need something like a modified reef hook that has more surface area on the hook similar to what a boat anchor looks like since the bottom is usually sand/gravel or small stones and obviously I'd have to make sure not to disturb redds but something along that idea could definitely work!