brightnight

Bump

The bolt for strength is a super smart idea!

I know that the larger the dome the easier it is to take split shot but is the difference between a 200mm (8") and a 230mm (9") dome negligible? I've also heard of some people building their own large domes strickly for split shots. Are there particular resources someone can suggest on a DIY dome for split shots or has anyone done it before?

Looking to pick up a used Nauticam Flash Trigger for Canon DSLR. I know someone has one out there!

Very interesting. I'm suprised to hear the the 28-60 is sharper than the 28-70, that's news to me! Now I'll have to dig in and do some reading. Not sure if the 28-60 only applies to Sony or if it also applies to a canon DSLR like the 5D mkIV I'm using. Nowhere in the Canon 120 Port Chart do they mention the 28-60 and had I purposely picked the 28-70mm for the sharpness and very little for the zoom range since I'm almost never shooting at 70mm.

I currently shoot with a 28-70mm/WACP-1 and I’m trying to weigh the pros/cons of getting a 8-15mm fisheye with a 1.4x teleconverter and using it with the 180mm dome I already have. As far as I have been able to tell, the 8-15mm doesn’t have any real benefits in terms of minimum focus distance or FOV which are two critical pieces for my style of shooting in rivers and streams. The only benefit seems to be the image style of fisheye which is nice but my understanding is that doesn’t happen at 15mm. If the lens was at 15mm all day I think I'd be better off shooting the WACP-1 as the image quality would be higher. The 8-15mm fisheye setup runs about $800-1000 if I use the 180mm dome I already have so if there isn’t a real benefit that I might just stick with the WACP-1. I don't love extreme distortion but I do like minimal effects of a fisheye has which emphasise the center of the image, so I'm guessing I'll be in the 11-15mm range most of the time. What other factors should I consider and would you add a 8-15mm/1.4x teleconverter into the mix? Camera: Full frame DSLR (Canon 5D mark IV) I made this chart comparing the two, if it is inaccurate please let me know: null

Thank you!!

Looking for a Canon EF 8-15MM fisheye N120 setup or parts of a setup which include: -Extension ring 50 -Kenko TELEPLUS HD pro 1.4x -Canon EF 8-15mm f4 fisheye -Nauticam 19538 ( Zoom Gear: Canon 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye with 1.4 Teleconverter)

Still looking.

I struggled with cables at first. You should be able to have a fiber connected to your camera and see the light come out the other end, this way you can take the strobe out of the equation and just focus on the fiber cable. I ended up needing to cut mine with a very sharp blade, too many reflections from the first time I made them when using a dull blade and the light wasn't getting through. As @makar0n suggested, I'm a fan (because of this site) of making your own if you're not in a rush. Ther are super easy to make, cheap, work well, and you can make any custom length and also have spares without breaking the bank and they will give you a good understanding of how they work and what to do if they aren't working.

Looking to pickup a used Nauticam Canon Flash Trigger for DSLR (cannot be the mini flash trigger). Shoot me a PM if you have one. Thanks, Pete

I 3D printed some for my 330's from files on Thingiverse that are also posted on here. They seemed to work ok but was my first time doing macro and I wasn't great at it. Can always modify them as needed.

Appreicate the adive, I'll try another cable. For my last trip I used a brand new cable and still had issues but I can try a normal HDMI cable too and see if I have issues with that. The fact that the monitor cut out at different rates sometimes often and sometimes going minutes without cutting out does suggest a cable issue as opposed to the camera having trouble putting out signals over HDMI that far. Thanks for the tip!

I'm still puzzeled about the performance of Canon 5D Mark IV with a monitor when shooting in low light. Once it gets quite dark, everything on the monitor appears bright and well-lit, but the camera perceives the scene as dark as it actually is and requires a focus light to achieve focus. If the monitor can display a clear image, why can't the camera temporarily increase gain or sensor sensitivity to lock focus before reverting to its set ISO and shutter speed? Or is there a setting in most cameras that can do this that I'm not aware of? Seems like relatively simple feature. As I understand it some mirrorless cameras have a feature called "low-light AF assist" which does basically what I described but the 5DmIV does not.

I tried these and they screwed down tightly on my 330's, worked well.