Davide DB

In the meantime in a galaxy far, far away...

I refrain from hacking the photo thread.... Speaking of split shot video footage, I've seen that professionals use purpose built rigs. Before I express my imagination to the max, do you know if there is a simple ready-made DIY project somewhere? The great Rafa Herrero in action... null

The silhouettes of the amberjacks on the prowl with the moving anchovies create a beautiful atmosphere only ruined by the platoon of scorpion fish trying to take advantage of the confusion. If only 10 years ago you had written that this was a Mediterranean scene they would have laughed at you. Poor Mediterranean Sea.

For me it is a little different. I have a larger camera and to shoot WA and macro in the same dive I would have to mount and remove the Nauticam WWL-1 add-on lens, which is not really suitable for the technical dives I do. So I decide what to film first and configure the camera accordingly. Nevertheless, my housing has an integrated tripod mount and so I leave the three legs always mounted. This allows me to shoot close-ups at medium magnification by taking advantage of the fact that the WWL-1 focuses almost in contact with the lens. I keep everything slightly negative and if I need to stabilise it, I add a small weight on the fly. More details in this thread: P.S. A trick that few implement: by extending one of the legs of the tripod, you can use it as a handle, obtaining a grip with a wider angle and considerably more stable camera movements. Here is an example (from 4'40"):

I had the Pana 8mm and Nauticam 4.33" and it's really a good combo. Going rectilinear a more expensive and good combo is the Panaleica 8-18mm and Nauticam 7" acrylic dome. Way better than 7-14mm.

Tokina 10-17 or Canon 8-15 are good choices on a M43 system too.

Interesting link. They describe it as the Holy Grail of Snoot macro photography. I'm curious to hear some die hard macro photographer here. I think that config is very specific to a certain type of macro and the center of gravity of the whole kit will be more off center than before. Basically it would exacerbates her current problem. An incubus filming WA with that.

Welcome back! Happy to see you here.

I'm definitively 100% filming at mesophotic depths > 200' only with artificial light (Keldan Luna). I've never MWB. My camera (GH5S GH5MKII) works perfectly with AWB. I prefer shooting in cine-d but sometimes i film in v-log because my buddy has a fixation for v-log so I'm forced to 🙂 I agree on filming v-log on land but underwater I don't see an edge for it and post CC is tricky. My cine-d is gorgeous. Bye

Yes, i was reading their website, very vague. They never state that you will swim with the animals but they require snorkeling experience and a wetsuit.

Long story short: Right now you definitely have the floats too concentrated on one side of the housing. You need to try to reposition them more evenly. You could try the solution that Ben proposed. Ideally, you should spend an evening in the pool armed with various floats, and zip ties (as many zip ties as any self-respecting DIY project). Here you can see Ben's setup and maybe then he can show you better how he adjusts the floating point. Warning, Film PhD in action! You could do these movements with a well trimmed camera without arms or with floating arms placed horizontally to the camera. Difficult to do this with the arms placed at W.

Could it depends on the season?

It's easy to move around floats with that monster! I love the MGM style closing clip 🤣

This is the floating base I was speaking about: https://www.fotosub-shop.com/2609-10bar-base-galleggiante-400-g..html It's huge for your LX-10 but it gives you an idea. You could go DIY easily. The important thing is to not exaggerate on the opposite;)

Good question indeed! What you describe is an often underestimated factor and a big difference between photos and videos. The force you apply with your wrists is transmitted to the housing, making the footage unstable. Having a weight distribution similar to a sailboat (the bulb weighs) helps make everything more stable but if the difference in buoyancy between top and bottom is too pronounced then what you describe happens. In my opinion you have gone too far with the floats at the top and now you have tilt resistance. You need to move part of the floats to the bottom. Maybe increase the collar one? You should do a test in the pool by leaving the case in mid-water and see how you arrange it. With porthole up or down or it stays horizontal. For extreme cases I remember seeing a floating base to attach to the base of the case. Do you have a photo of the kit?

Thanks, really a good job!

I was thinking that this type of environment pushes the DR of the camera to its limits. Nice camera movements and editing. What are the white dots on the giant grouper's snout? parasites? Can you give us some info on the equipment used? No lights and red filter? What depth are you at?

And don't miss the mini-doc on Laurent Ballesta's expedition down into the article https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20240507-the-deep-ocean-photographer-that-captured-a-living-fossil In 2010, Laurent Ballesta photographed a living coelacanth alongside diver, Cédric Gentil (Credit: Laurent Ballesta/Andromede Oceanologie) Laurent Ballesta photographs his dive team while on their expedition deep in the Mediterranean Sea (Credit: Laurent Ballesta/Andromede Oceanologie)

Hi Zvonimiri, I dont' know its FOV but it's a popular choice and maybe someone will chime in. in the meantime you can check these two threads (if you didn't already):

The 20mm has the same MOD: 43cm / 1’4″ I have ready available a 230mm dome and i have to focus an object at about 5m / 16'

After the countless and extremely technical discussions about the compatibility of the most exotic lens-port combinations, I would also have a question and my own strange combination. I am too illiterate to try to make any calculations and assumptions on my own so I am asking you techies. (As I ask the question imagine my face like that of the famous math meme...) I would like to ask you in general what considerations should be made in putting an anamorphic lens behind a dome but let's take a specific lens: Laowa Nanomorph 20mm T2.2. https://laowacine.com/product/nanomorph-20mm-t2-2-mft/ I found this table: It has a MOD of 430 mm (not promising for focusing the virtual image generated by the dome). What is the minimum porthole size of this lens? How do I calculate the position this lens should have inside the dome? The data indicate an FOV of only 65° compared to how wide the view seems in the footage. Thank you for your help.

Let us know your impression on desktop use 🙂

Link added. Thanks

And by the way, I hope you never see this in your displays or viewfinders 😑

I 100% agree on camera and lens but for the housing, after a thorough rinsing with water and isopropyl alcohol my electronic circuits were perfect.