Davide DB

I like the blenny. He is a nightmare to shoot on video

Over the past few weeks with the forum fully operational, we have been looking more closely at the site statistics and in particular the size of the uploaded images. Various tests have been carried out trying to find a compromise between the quality of the images and their size. A unicorn for all forum administrators. Image size poses two types of problems: immediately: there are pages in the photo/video showcase sections that come to have several dozen photos and which become, especially on mobile devices, very slow to load. in the long term: it is important to have photos on one's own server because over time they become the assets of the community and storage is expensive. If appropriate measures in space management are not taken now, we may find ourselves with unsustainable costs in the not too distant future. We have also tried using various algorithms that resize photos on the fly during upload but with poor quality results and overloading the server's processing power. Long story short: we are forced to put strict specifications on the size of uploaded photos. Maximum size: 300 KB Long side size: 1200 pixels Please note that photos used for professional desktop wallpapers usually do not exceed 200 KB. But we don't leave you alone and for those members who might need it, we have listed how to meet these parameters using the most popular photo editing software on the market, Photoshop, Capture One and Lightroom. P.S. For best results, just follow the procedures below. Nevertheless, for the lazy, we have left the forum automatic sizing algorithm enabled but it may leave you unsatisfied. If your software is not there or you would like to add something, please let us know in the comments. Adobe Photoshop This is how to do it in Photoshop, newer versions may differ slightly and most other IP programs are similar. First open the image size dialog: Note the long side dimension highlighted, change this to 1200. Constrain proportions is ticked so you only change one dimension and the program calculates the other: No need to change image resolution it is irrelevant for the web, it is only used for printing. It may imapct font sizes for copyright notices but that's it. Next Save your image, select save as JPEG, from the drop down in format box and re-name if desired: Click save and you will get a drop down dialog box to select quality change quality till file size is in target range, click OK: Or Photoshop has save for web which has a finer range of options. Change quality till highlighted size is right. Check save as sRGB and I always embed colour profile: Once size is right click save and you are done. Capture One It's all in one screen, first is the recipe that you can recall Then naming if you want Then format and quality Then ICC profile Then size Open summary tab to see final file size: Adobe Lightroom Classic From your Library tab, select one or more photos. Right click on one photo and from the drop-down menu, choose Export. A new window with tons of options will appear. For our scope, only two sections are relevant: File Settings and Image Size. Press Export and that's it! P.S. You can save all your preferred export option in one user preset so next time you will find it directly in the Export menu. I would suggest to leave metadata in the exported photos: our gallery will display it showing to other members your camera settings.

ND16 and ND32 filters to use in full light

Hi Ashok, welcome onboard!

I left my 11s directly in a freezing river bottom for hours tons of times. No need of an housing. However, it must be said that if you look at the orings and the locking mechanism and compare it to that of our housings, it really is an act of faith to use them without a housing. I would use the housing to protect it from sand and salt.

https://waterpixels.net/settings/signature/

Welcome aboard! Looking forward to see some TG-6 pictures

They are coming...

He basically warned you of the risks you were taking

We could add a special badge 😁🤣

I have used this lens for years with several Panasonic camera bodies exclusively for video. An average wide rectilinear lens. It has very controlled flares like all modern lenses hut purple blobs can still appear with very concentrated side lights. It happened to me occasionally with my buddies' technical lights pointed sideways at the lens but I wouldn't say it behaved much differently from other lenses in these harsh situations.

The "question" since man invented the camera 🙂 As usual, the right answer would be "it depends." I'll try to give answers by anticipating other important details. What kind of filming do you do? Wide or macro? Lighting can be divided into these two macro categories. A modern light for wide shots ranges from 7,000 to 20,000 lumens.A macro light at most 1,500 lumens. Actually lumen would not be the correct unit of measurement. We should use lux but unfortunately all manufacturers use lumen. Then there are some lights that try to cover both needs but IMHO really only cover wide for close-up shots because of low light output. So they are good for macro and for close-up shots of small portions of the seabed as a complement to macro. These usually have max 4/5000 lumens stated for the wide function. What sea do you dive in? How deep? This in my opinion is the real discriminator. Absurdly, the deeper you go, and within certain limits, power is less important. A modern camera has no problem working at over 1000 ISO. In fact if you work in log, many have a base of 1250 or 2500 ISO. It goes without saying that in depth where you have only or almost only light generated by lamps, even as little as 7/8000 lumens is enough. Quite different is the case when shooting in tropical waters and shallow depths. Red filter and ambient light aside, here to return colors to the underwater life you have to overpower the sunlight which is very powerful. In some situations 10,000 lumens is absolutely not enough. In this case it is simply a matter of budget. I asked about you sea/diving conditions... In very turbid or dark water what I wrote about depth also applies to shallow waters. Will you use filters on the lights? This is a long topic and deserves a separate thread. Basically, in situations where your subject is exposed to a mix of ambient and artificial light (your lights) you can use filters on the lights that bring them to a color temperature similar to the ambient one on which you will do a WB. The issue is complex but as far as we are concerned: if you put a filter in front of your lights, their brightness will be halved or become 1/4. It follows that you need a higher starting light output. Maybe 20K lumens. I hope this helps

Thanks Ian. Next year we should have several new things coming up. Rich is a volcano of ideas and we need to hold him by the fins 😆 But the heart of the community is you users. We just try to create a platform where members feel comfortable in a friendly and inclusive environment that facilitates the exchange of opinions. Happy new year

For those who need it, I can provide the address of a photography gear store that is very aware of GAS and WAF.

Yes, Absolutely! Remember our role in life... 😜

5700£ or 6500 euro and it weights 2,6 kg so we have: White truffle of Alba - 3000 €/kg WACP - 2500 €/kg Kobe beef - 1000 €/kg

Hi Peter, welcome aboard!

Here in Europe you can't find coolers as sturdy and affordable as American ones. The only ones I found got holes in them after a few months and the zipper became a stalactite. I do exclusively local diving and for the RHIB I use a box with hard plastic handles. While unloading the RHIB I put the water hose in it and let it soak.

We forgot to add it on the about page

Thank you for your support. Now put on your T-shirts and conquer the diving centers! 😉

I have two beautiful RGBlue lights bought used many years ago that I use for macro. They have exceptional build quality and I am very fond of them. Two years ago I broke a LED and ended up cursing the day I bought them. Getting assistance from Japan was a nightmare and cost me money and months of exhausting meaningless communication. This year I lost a charger and luckily I found a spare in stock in Europe. Thanks Ben 😉 Just think that the old Italian importer gave me some batteries he had left in stock for free. He broke off relations with them some time ago also because of their rigidity in business relations.

Same for me (for lights)

Welcome! Near one of my favourite dive destination in the Med: Port Cros!

Did you spread the word on social media?