Pavel Kolpakov

So, as i understand, the ONE UW-160 strobe does not have HSS synchronization by optical input, but only electrical. Then, there is no subject for the discussion about its optical sync.

Thank you for the information. As i see in the email, he simply has no information about UWT triggers compatibility, because he did not test. My thought, they are compatible. If i have a chance, i will test and publish this information.

Did anybody test ONE UW 160 strobe in HSS by optics? By the way, all other HSS-strobes work normally in HSS mode with UWTechnics triggers. Why do this strobe model would not work? I have doubts in this. Please tell me some details and where the information comes from.

Do you have 2 different housings (NA-R5C and NA-R6II)? If you think to reinstall the TTL Converter from one housing to another and back for many times, it will have a very short life. You have to install appropriate TTL Converter in each housing.

Hi Giancarlo, The reason was that you set a wrong Shutter type (probably "electronic" shutter). Please check the User Manual of TTL Converter, there written that necessary to set "Mechanical" shutter in the camera menu. All available sync speeds for Mechanical Shutter protocol are supported by TTL Converter. According to the Canon R5 camera Specifications, the maximum sync speed with Mechanical Shutter is 1/200. In the R7 camera Specifications it is 1/250. The maximum sync speed is limited automatically by the camera. This maximum sync speed is supported by TTL Converter of course, you can check.

You dived 100+ times after the last occurrence, and everything worked normally all 100 dives?

The loss of contact in this case is associated with a change in pressure, this is obvious. Generally speaking, this shouldn't have that much of an impact. But the contact is loose somewhere. I think it happens in the hot shoe. To clarify it some better, try diving without pumping out air at all, look at the effect. And before closing the housing push the shoe plug firmly into the socket until it stops, this is the most important thing. We can replace the TTL Converter of course, but the issue can be another.

I agree with Chris and Dave, i would also first of all assume a problem with the contacts in the hot shoe connection, and also check the buttons under pressure on the depth. The Sony MI shoe has 24 contacts, very thin and weak. Unfortunately, this new Sony MI shoe turned out to be quite unreliable for peripheral devices. However, the Sony company does not care about this. For a problem to occur, it is enough for just one necessary contact to become slightly deformed or corroded. Most often it is corrosion from sea air saturated with moisture and salt. If there is corrosion or salt deposits, the effect may appear from time to time, as well as with a slight displacement of the camera body under pressure (at depth). Sometimes salt deposits are invisible to the eye, but they are there. You need to thoroughly clean the shoe contacts with a cotton swab and alcohol. But the main thing here is that you need to firmly move the plug on the camera connector several times until it stops, back and forth, in order to mechanically remove possible corrosion. And one more piece of advice: every time before closing the housing, check how deep the plug is pushed into the shoe socket, since people often do not push this plug all the way in - this is the most common reason. If corrosion (or salt) has already occurred inside the plug, then you will not be able to clean it properly, and then only replacing it (plug with cable) will help. If you ultimately come to this conclusion, please contact us by email and we will send you a new plug. Less likely, but possible, is that at depth some button on the camera is pressed, preventing the shutter from being released. Well, this is easy to check - listen with your ear when that malfunction occurs, is the sound of the shutter release (mechanical shutter) heard at depth? The least possible reason, but still possible, is a deformation of PCB (mounted by 2 bolts), because of the mount. Try to mount the board significantly weaker, to prevent any possible deformation at the depth. Check if this has an effect.

Land strobes underwater were an acceptable solution in the past. I used Nikon and Canon strobes in Subal housings. But it was many years ago. That era is long gone. I support the previous answers about some disadvantages of land strobes underwater nowadays. Usually the list is following: - The 2 land strobes in a pair (paralleled on a HotShoe interface) cannot communicate with a camera for TTL / HSS and other functionality, intellectual protocol totally doesn't work. Only manual flash is available by the central contact grounding. As for me, this is a main problem. Of course, some solutions are exist for this, but not simple. - Using a land strobe, an electric sync cord is necessary for communication with the camera. Electric cords underwater are not reliable enough, often get damages, leakages etc. We prefer to use mainly fiber optics nowadays. - Some more difficult to change batteries in the land strobe installed inside the housing, comparing to underwater strobe. - Land strobe functionality is some restricted because of the few buttons on the strobe housing. - Many underwater strobes are more powerful, than land strobes. This is typical. - The size and weight of the land strobe+housing usually are bigger than underwater strobe of the same power. This is important for traveling. - The complete set of land strobe+housing has the similar price or more expensive, than underwater strobe. Nowadays, i would use a land strobe in underwater housing just for interest, but only 1 strobe (not a pair). I love to use retro equipment sometimes, it reminds me about the past.

Thank you guys! I will be happy to participate here on the forum with you.

Greetings to all forum participants. My name is Pavel Kolpakov. I've been photographing underwater for about 20 years. I work as a technical specialist in the company Underwater Technics Co., LTD (Taiwan). I will be glad to communicate with amateur and professional photographers on the forum. I use photo cameras Nikon, Canon, Sony and Olympus, and underwater housings Nauticam, Subal, Sea&Sea, Nexus, Seafrogs, Ikelite, underwater strobes: Inon, Sea&Sea, Ikelite, Subtronic. Communication on the forum is always very interesting for me. For my part, I am ready to help everyone who is interested in underwater photographic equipment, especially lighting gear (strobes, triggers, TTL converters, cables, bulkheads, etc.).