Pavel Kolpakov

UWTechnics TTL Converters for Sony and for Nikon were successfully tested with the newest Sea&Sea YS-D130R strobe. The TTL, HSS and M modes are supported. By the way, the circular tube brought a nice TTL for Sea&Sea strobe. YS-D130R strobe compatibility is officially confirmed now and will be included in the User Manuals of TTL Converters for Sony and Nikon. Canon and Olympus versions are in the work now.

Sony's camera menu doesn't have a built-in option for switching external flash to M mode. Therefore, a separate command, which isn't used underwater, was assigned (by TTL Converter firmware) to switch the flash system to M mode without pre-flashes. UWTechnics TTL converters were the first to use the WL command to switch the flash to M mode. Company developed the controlled M mode, allowing the user to manually adjust the flash power via the Sony camera's menu dial. The same time, the traditional manual flash adjustment via the strobe knob is also available. Here is the UWTechnics User Manual text:

External TTL Converter 18023-M24 for Sony, installed on the MARELUX housing. (Photo by Phil Rudin)

UWTechnics External TTL Converter for Sony installation in M24 hole on Sea&Sea MDX-aU housings:

To use LED triggers in TTL/HSS modes, you should use new type 613 fiber optic cables. Other cable models may have a significantly lower transmission index. The type 613 cable is also mentioned in the trigger User Manual. You have to configure the trigger and camera according to the User Manual, step by step.

UWTechnics supplies a small 2x0.5mm flat-head screwdriver with every product. Here is the photo: This is a very popular flat tip size. It can be purchased at most hardware and auto parts stores. Please note that the rotary switch shaft is made of soft plastic (easily damaged with the wrong tool). It's best to use a standard small 2x0.5mm or similar size screwdriver.

Hi Brad, As i understand it, this is a second-hand TTL Converter for A7 camera, purchased together with a housing recently. You don't know the year of issue, so the circuit version is not clear enough. According to the photo, it looks like product of 2014 year. So, initial owner probably started to use it 12 years ago. But nobody knows if it works or broken now. I can help you with some information and User Manual. That circuit had a little bit different schematics than modern versions, and It did not have a separate profile for Z330 yet. Switch position "6" was reserved (empty) there. But you can use any existing similar profile, for example Z240 (switch position - 1). It is not the same, but will work. You also can try another profiles, according to the User Manual that i sent you by email.

A few more photos:

The installation and functionality of UWTechnics External M24 TTL Converters on the new Seafrogs aluminum housings has been successfully tested. UWTechnics TTL converters with M24 thread (Sony, Nikon, Canon, Olympus) fit perfectly into the M24 hole on the top of those Seafrogs aluminum housings, without interfering with external controls. The metal bracket also eliminates interference. The connection to the camera (inside the housing) is also comfortable. The installation on aluminum Seafrogs housings is very simple and secure, the same well as TTL Converter M24 installation on Nauticam and Marelux housings. So, now the TTL and HSS flash control is available for this housings line, supporting the most popular strobes on the market: Sea&Sea, Inon, Retra, Marelux, etc. This information may be useful for Seafrogs users.

This is a new product, still in development. Technical delays are possible. However, it will be available soon.

Backscatter strobes have proprietary TTL protocol, not a classic TTL. Proprietary TTL protocol requires Backscatter triggers usage, as i remember those triggers exist for Olympus and Sony. The HSS system in Backscatter strobes is compatible with most of HSS triggers on the market, including UWT triggers of course.

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Silver/Black color design version:

I consider the MF-3 a nice product with a well-thought-out design. The strobe will be popular on the market.

It looks like low battery, or weak contact in the battery holder. Remove the product from the housing. The next actions do on the table, without housing and other gear, but only with the camera: Remove the batteries from TTL Converter. Bend down the central tongue of the battery holder pushing it maximum down by any tool (flat screwdriver), to improve the contact. Then, install 2 batteries. Batteries must be NEW. Check the "flash" symbol on the service screen and the LEDs work. Set all camera settings described in the User Manual of TTL Converter for TTL mode, carefully step by step (this is absolutely necessary). After the TTL flash tests on the table directly with the strobe (without fiber cable!) you can install the product into the housing and connect your cable.