Pavel Kolpakov

It looks like low battery, or weak contact in the battery holder. Remove the product from the housing. The next actions do on the table, without housing and other gear, but only with the camera: Remove the batteries from TTL Converter. Bend down the central tongue of the battery holder pushing it maximum down by any tool (flat screwdriver), to improve the contact. Then, install 2 batteries. Batteries must be NEW. Check the "flash" symbol on the service screen and the LEDs work. Set all camera settings described in the User Manual of TTL Converter for TTL mode, carefully step by step (this is absolutely necessary). After the TTL flash tests on the table directly with the strobe (without fiber cable!) you can install the product into the housing and connect your cable.

Underwater Technics TTL converters for OM System / Olympus draw a micro-current from the +5V power supply pin on the camera's hot shoe and require no battery. Micro-current consumption has virtually no impact on the camera's battery capacity. The user does not need to worry about the battery for TTL Converter, that is very convenient. TTL Converters have intellectual two-way communication with the camera and fully controllable by the camera menu. The main features are as follows: ▪ Supported strobes: Inon, Sea&Sea, Retra, Apollo, Ikelite, Subtronic and others. ▪ TTL / M / HSS mode switching underwater via camera menu ▪ "Balanced TTL flash metering" is available ▪ "Exposure Shift" is available for each metering method ▪ “Flash Exposure compensation +/-” adjustment via camera menu ▪ HSS sync speeds up to 1/8000s ▪ Manual Adjustment of strobe intensity (via camera menu in “M” flash mode): 1/64.....Full ▪ 1-st / 2-nd curtain synchronization ▪ “Flash Off” mode via camera control ▪ Continuous (serial) shooting ▪ Automatic switching “ON/OFF” by camera protocol ▪ No battery required Factory produces the following versions of the External TTL Converter for OM System / Olympus: M16 for Nauticam, Marelux and Seafrogs housings, M24 for Marelux, Seafrogs aluminum housings, M16 for Ikelite housings, 1/2"UNF for Ikelite housings, M16 for Isotta housings, M12 for Seafrogs polycarbonate housings. The following versions of the Internal TTL Converter for OM System/ Olympus are in production now: for Nauticam housings, for Isotta housings, for Marelux housings (will be announced soon). For more information, please visit uwtechnics.com.

If you set both camera and strobe to M mode, but any problem still exists, it means we don't have a complete information about the settings / setup. Sometimes key information escapes the user's attention. I can help identify incorrect settings in real time using photo/video chat via FB messenger. The solution will take a couple of minutes. If you need this help, please contact me on FB.

Chris, I absolutely agree with you. I also already answered about this reason above. Topic starter used TTL mode on the camera, but M mode on the strobe. The energy discharges at the pre-flash. This is a clear reason.

If you set M mode by the strobe knob, the flash starts only when the optical input signal edge appears, and nothing else. After this trigger point, the strobe operates automatically and cannot be controlled externally. Flash intensity can only be adjusted using the strobe itself, using its knob.

The camera and TTL converter have two-way intelligent communication, working as a single control system. When M mode is selected in the Canon menu, the control system fires only the single main flash, and nothing else. In response to this signal, the strobe should also fire the single flash (the flash intensity is adjustable manually by the second knob). Thus, M mode operates in the lighting system. I recommend you to train using YS-D1 first, because it is a simple classic strobe. Set M flash mode in Canon camera menu, 1-st curtain sync. Set YS-D1 to "M mode without pre-flashes" by the knob. This way strobe emits 1 main flash responding to the single control flash. Adjust the intensity by the second knob. The YS-D3 DUO is more complex to use and requires user programming. Once you've achieved the desired results with the YS-D1, you can move on to the more complex YS-D3 DUO strobe. Before using, carefully program the YS-D3 DUO step-by-step, following your TTL converter's User Manual and the Sea&Sea YS-D3 DUO User Manual. If you incorrectly program the YS-D3 DUO for a specific usage version, the strobe will never function properly, and no one will be able to figure out the cause.

So, you set the strobe to Manual mode by the knob, but you set the camera to TTL mode by menu. This means the flash settings on the strobe and the camera are inconsistent. This is a mistake that causes the image to be black (unlit). Let's see what happens: In TTL mode, the camera fires two flashes (pre-flash + main flash). If you manually set the strobe output to a high level by knob, all the flash power will be discharged by the pre-flash, leaving insufficient power for the subsequent main flash. The image should be black, as you can see.

We will be waiting for the test results from your trip to Bali.

Please specify some information: 1) Did you program YS-D3 DUO options before usage, as described in the User Manual of TTL Converter? 2) What flash mode is set by the strobe knob, - TTL or Manual? 3) What flash mode is set by camera menu, - TTL, Manual, or HSS? What sync, - 1/st or 2-nd curtain? 4) What position of the rotary switch is set on the TTL-Converter board? 5) What is the fiber cable model? Is it 613 core type and brand new?

Phill, thank you for your research into this new product. This is important information, both regarding TTL imaging accuracy and installation. Also thank you for the photos of installation on the Marelux housing.

If you mean TTL Converter switch position 9, - this is a mistaken choice. Check the User Manual for TTL Converter: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IpmCU-Ei8IeeApRnpLnTrDu8gVBUIzw9/view There are three positions for HSS strobes: Position '2" - for Apollo-III. Position "3"- for Apollo-S, Position "7" - for Retra Pro MAX.

UWTechnics TTL converters for Sony A9 III (camera with global shutter) ensure ultra-fast flash sync, even with classic underwater strobes (Inon, Sea&Sea, Ikelite, Subtronic and other): ** The maximum sync speed in TTL mode with classic underwater strobes is 1/500 s, ** The maximum sync speed in M mode with classic underwater strobes is 1/2000 s, ** The maximum sync speed in HSS/M mode with Retra HSS and Apollo HSS strobes is 1/80,000 s (!) TTL Converters currently in production: Internal TTL converter #12075-GS for Nauticam A9 III housing, External TTL converter #18044-UNF-IK for Ikelite A9 III housing, Internal TTL converter #11096-GS-MFC for Marelux A1 II/A9 III housing.

Canon R5 II

UWTechnics External TTL converters (for Sony, Canon, Nikon and Olympus) are available in two thread options for Ikelite housings - 1/2"UNF20 and M16. Below are photos of an example of installation of External TTL Converter 18042-UNF-IK (version for 1/2"UNF20 thread) into Ikelite housing 200DLM/D for Canon EOS R7. Product has the following features: - Optical TTL, M and HSS synchronization for underwater strobes, - Switching TTL/M/HSS modes underwater by camera menu, - Flash synchronization at 1-st / 2-nd curtain by menu, - TTL flash exposure compensation (+/-) adjustment by menu, - Manual flash power adjustment by menu 1/125...Full (in M mode), - HSS ultra fast shutter speeds up to 1/8000s, - Continuos fast shooting, - Battery life: 3 years of continuous work, - Automatic ON/OFF. No any mechanical switch is needed. - Supported strobes: Inon, Marelux, Retra, Underwater Technics, Sea&Sea, - Strobe profile switching - by onboard rotary switch. - TTL converter is fully controllable underwater via the camera menu. It provides intelligent two-way communication protocol with the camera and supports Canon's graphic menu. - TTL Converter automatically stores your last flash menu settings for underwater usage in its non-volatile memory. When you connect the camera again, it loads these settings into the camera, which is very convenient.

Classic Ikelite strobes have only electrical input controlled by a sync cord, If don't use any input adapters/converters. Here we talk about Optical TTL/M/HSS Trigger. It works with strobes with optical input, by fiber optical cables. The list of supported strobes you can see in the product 18041-UNF-IK specifications on the UWTechnics website: uwtechnics.com The new Ikelite strobe #40101 ("Ecko Fiber Underwater Strobe") can work with it, by fiber optical cable. We are currently developing a combined version of the External converter with two outputs (optical and electrical) on the top. It will support strobes via fiber optic cable and via electrical sync cord (including, of course, Ikelite strobes).