DocTock

Answering my own question now that I have been diving with the EMWL for 3 days. Another diver in my group has made a custom zippered neoprene pouch that fits the EMWL fully set up (base, reflex, optic) with SS clips on each end. I've been able to borrow from them and have put the fully set up kit in the pouch and clipped to both sides of my chest D-rings. Back entry in - camera down and before I get near the sand of muck diving in Lembeh Ive vented and attached to bayonet adapter on macro port. I do the reverse to exit the water via boat ladder. Definitely getting the sewing plans to create an identical carry case.

Would you happen to have the files for 3D printing on these caps? The actual Nauticam rubber versions are painfully expensive... Did you print in PTEG or another filament that is more flexible yet survives UV and saltwater? Otherwise - appreciate all the suggestions. I am bayonet mounting for the EMWL, the EMWL swing looked silly and heavy AND this looks like a lens set up that needs to be the SOLE focus on a dive, not while trying to "do everything".

As per topic headline: I'm reaching out to those who have ACTUALLY USED AN EMWL. The question really has to do with "best practices" and reality of getting into and out of the water with this massive chunk of glass and electronics. BOAT ENTRY AND EXIT discussions ONLY - PLEASE I'm aware the "textbook" recommendation is to jump in with all parts separate and assemble in the water. That leads to my question about the usefulness of the reflex arm attachment with dual ball mounts ostensibly for use with a 3 way clamp to attach float and arm at a distant point. I must be total fumble fingers as the thought of trying to attach a 3-way clamp, while in water, while not dropping a $2k+ lens and or my strobe, into the depths, kinda eludes me. I've watched the video where @Alex_Mustard describes taking everything apart to clear copepods from between sections, but never actually SEEN anyone do this maneuver. My dry-land/ pre-trip imagination has me attaching the focus unit via bayonet and covering it, while soft case carry the reflex element and optic in a pocket. Then after rig handed off to me in water, assemble the pieces. OR Assemble fully prior to entry and disassemble underwater to clear? Thoughts?

I successfully used the exact MH-C801D Powerex Charger discussed for YEARS, following previous use of various Powerex chargers. Sadly, ~2 years ago all my Powerex chargers decided they wanted to cook batteries, not charge them. After ruining several sets of white and black eneloops (all massively swollen and charge cycle never completed) - I dumped Powerex completely (different model charger did the same to some Energizer D rechargeables). Since then I have exclusively used a Panasonic charger/conditioner for my eneloops, and an Energizer brand charger for the Ds Sorry - I know that doesnt help in your situation, but I thought I might add my similar experience with Powerex products for anyone considering chargers...

I know nothing about the printer - a friend did 2 floats for me in your recommended filament material (dont want to say the wrong salt-water compatible type). One came out looking a bit squashed on one end and is a firm fit over the port; the other as you see is appropriate shape and is slightly loose on the port. Have yet to get either port float wet... Lembeh/ Bangka in July-Aug... I did use the MFO3 bumper on multiple dives in Maldives with no scratches on the glass to report!

I already LOVE the 3D printable stuff that @Dave_Hicks has created! You can see in the image below the MFO3 protector in place along with the Port 87 float! However, I'm NOT looking for a HARD cover for a dome. I think @Chris Ross idea to use the OEM Nauticam holder is my last option as I usually store my gear in the pouches and don't want any possible remnants of salt crystals etching/scratching glass/coatings in my non-diving downtime. Here is an image of my gear set as my "jump" for macro. I'm contemplating creating a soft "sack" on each wet diopter and a flat/"bikini" cover over the port. The individual holders clinching over each lens while attached, and the port cover bungee/elastic held in place. I have a pair of old Lavacore lined socks as donor material - I just need someone with neoprene/ underwater thread sewing skills...

While on safety stops in the past I've thought about how "best" to protect all the glass surfaces while entering/ exiting the water. The perfectly fitting branded covers and cases for multiple wet diopters are SUPER expensive, and in my past experience, most often they fall out of fingers to the bottom of the ocean. One thought was custom covers made out of neoprene with bungie/elastic to hold in place. I'd like to get covers made for: - currently unprotected Nauticam 87macro port with dual flip - MFO-3 on one arm of a dual flip - both front and back of lens - SMC-1 on other arm of the dual flip - again both front and back of lens - EMWL (thinking "sock-like") I'm fortunate that a friend and fellow diver gifted me a custom made neoprene cover for my WA 13mmRS lens - but I personally don't have "a guy in Thailand" to make any other covers. Anyone have any suggested solutions (premade?) or recommendations on what to tell a local tailor or where to find salt water proof supplies other than recycled wetsuits?

Purchased M10 single ball mount from @Lauren Wang Fabulous and straightforward exchange! Mounting ball was exactly as pictured and described, shipping was fast, communication was excellent!

Update... Got to play with my new MFO3 on a recent trip to Maldives. What a FUN way to get a fish "portrait" lens! And what a NEW headache = trying to photo male anthias with full fin extension in water column with nice bokeh or blue backgrounds! LOL And, I discovered that the single flip Nauticam holder I own that I thought had become "one" with a Nauticam 87 port actually was easily removed - DOH! Well - Now all geared up for bayonet OR single flip AND headed to that online ordering for a Nauticam dual flip! I really can see where having both an SMC1 and an MFO3 on in Lembeh would be advantageous.

Thanks! I knew it was nothing "wrong" and appreciate the "fix"!

I'm on a dive trip at the moment. Prior to leaving, I did the firmware update at home on my pair of Pro Max 1. I just noticed on the camera bench that the displays are opposite on each strobe. I do not feel there are strobe "issues" - just wondered if other folks had experienced similar and what might be the reason.

Purchased an EMWL #1, Relay lens, 130degree lens, and strobe holder from @WindWaternWaves SUPER smooth transaction in every aspect! Parts appear exactly as described. Excellent communications & very nice interactions. Insanely fast shipping from Australia to USA and well packed and protected! (Good thing too - box was CRUSHED on arrival)

@g3cko Sent a DM

I’m a long time user of a Nauticam flip holder for a single wet diopter. Usually starting a macro trip with a +5 SubSee before switching to an SMC-1. The discussions about the MFO-3 make it sound like a great lens to have around when geared for macro (Nikon 105VR). I learned a long time ago that trying to screw lenses on and off underwater was NOT a task I favored. A double flip looks super bulky, appears to add a lot of front weight, is a bit $$$, and the length of the MFO-3 doesn't seem very amenable to a flip holder. I have reason to move to a Nauticam bayonet mounting system for other reasons. But - The pricey arm holders for extra lenses on bayonet look like they again add a lot of front loaded weight & bulk. I do have a large front velcro pocket on the waistband of my backplate/wing as an option to store the lenses when not in use. What are folks’ experiences with wet swapping lenses using the bayonet system from Nauticam? How do other folks carry around the various lenses for macro shooting while on a dive?

I've also had bifocals made from the same shop. They are so good and useful (and expensive) that when I cracked the frame of my mask (due to stupidly placing the mask on my head and having it slide off onto a concrete pad) I sought out the same mask to move the prescription front glass intact from old to new mask.