hedonist222

Go away, Chris. Don't do this to me haha. 😵‍💫😥😁

What's focus breathing? Is it that Breathing Compensation? I thought that feature is only available in video mode.

Hi Wolfgang, Is your Aperture Drive in AF still in standard as per Alex? I ask because Priority Focus mode retains the aperture mechanism in full-open yielding more light and thus faster and more accurate focus. If your concern is being able to visualize real-time DoF, then you can assign one of the custom buttons to trigger DoF preview (akin to SLRs/DSLRs of yesteryear). This is how I have my Sony a7rv set up.

Hi Phil, Thanks for your usual helpful and insightful responses. While I don't doubt the A7rv focus speed and accuracy (but unimpressed because my fifteen year old Canon is faster at aim and focus) I want manual focus for artistically curated compositions. The majority of my subjects are both miniscule and skittish which means I remain at the mercy of where the camera thinks that 2x2 mm spot is a good focus area, followed by me rapidly exhaling (and most times at the most inopportune point in the the rhythmic cycle) and swaying forwards and backwards to correct the plane of focus.

Thanks Chris. I'm finding that the smc-2 may me too close for my needs. Any suggestions for something in between the smc-1 & smc-2? I know you mention the cmc-1, alas that's a cropped sensor diopter.

It appears that I am able to combine an AF and MF focus scenario. The camera defaults to MF, however one of the custom buttons (or AF On button?) can be set to (temporary) AF when pressed. This helps if you simply need AF or if you want to swiftly focus using AF then, when button is released, you return to MF. Then use the DMF (direct manual focus) function to manually fine tune focus. My question is, and pardon if this is common knowledge (just moved over to Sony from a 15 year old Canon), can I use manually fine tune focus using buttons on the body? This can be done on an Olympus TG-6 (yes, realize it's a point and shoot). If I can manually fine fine using buttons, then I don't need a manual focus ring partfrom Nauticam. I am intentionally elaborating my responses with the aim of providing elaborate to other newcomers like me in the future.

Ah, makes sense. The pro is lens flexibility, the con is (two) added (potential) failure points. I'm not schooling you with this sentence. I'm adding it for the benefit of other readers who may not be aware of the con. I'm considering it. But must I set the lens to manual? Thus precluding me from using auto focus? If so, then deal breaker. I'll explain why. Sometimes the subject is so small that I want to say focus to the maximum nearest (the minimum focusing distance). Right now, without a manual focus ring, I zoom till it stops and hope that it stopped because it's determined that it's the closest focus. I'd like to be able to fine tune focusing.

Very helpful. Thank you. Thanks Wolfgang, but are you not apprehensive that using different size/dimension ports will affect the the image? I ask because my (highly elementary) understanding of ports is that the front element (glass) of the port must be at a certain distance from the front of the lens and a certain distance from the sensor itself (that knot circle with a strike though symbol on the camera body itself - indicating exactly where the sensor plane is located). Therefore manufacturers develop the ideal port for a particular lens. I am not saying your suggested combination is incorrect - I am asking how you are able to determine this with your combination.

Any video or photos on how a bayonet system works or is different from the clamp-on flip holder mount? I couldn't visualize the difference.

Hi Chip. Thanks! The 45 degree angled view finder looks nice, but $1,7500? I've just dropped a little over $11K but don't think seventeen hundred fifty is fair. Can live without. For now... 🙂 Not new to underwater photography. Currently using a Canon 5dmkii with a 100L lens in an Aquatica housing. I've been content with a single backscatter mf1. The Canon is from 2009. Decided to leap 15 years into the future with the Sony requisition. I'm familiar with the Aquatica ecosystem. Unfamiliar with the Nauticam ecosystem and hence this thread. I'm very very familiar with the SMC-1. And also enjoy using it very much, hence considering the smc-2 as I've reached the SMC-1 limit on a few occasions now. Thanks for the buoyancy tip. I have the exact setup on my 5dmkii & Aquatica. In addition to the mf1 with a floatation tube, I use a back scatter mw4300 video light with floatation. It's slightly negatively buoyant & that's my preference.

Hi everyone. I'm very familiar with the SMC-1 on a full frame sensor. Was considering the SMC-2, insane, I know. But I've reached the limits of the SMC-1 enough times and had wished I had the SMC-2 or similar. Someone who's owned both (SMC-2 and AOI UCL-900 PRO) said he preferred the AOI. He said the AOI is brighter and easier to use. He said they're both the same focal length (+23.5), however the AOI is easier to use and has better light. I'm leaning towards the SMC-2 because of how good, optically, the 1 is. Thoughts?

Thanks, Phil. The basic Nauticam led trigger is fine but only allows up to 1/200 flash sync. The Sony camera natively syncs up to 1/250 - and the Turtle or UW Technics triggers offer this (and for not much more than the nauticam price).

Considering a Nauticam housing for the Sony A7RV. What all would I need if I intend to use it for macro only. Assume I have the camera, 90mm Sony lens, SMC-1, and backscatter MF-1 flash and fiber optic cables. I also have arms, floats, and clamps from my full frame Canon Aquatica housing that I can use. I currently have listed: 1- Nauticam housing (NA-A7RV) 2- N100 macro port 105 3- M14 vacuum valve II 4- Turtle LED trigger (manual - no intention on using TTL - happy to be corrected or advised otherwise) 5- AOI Sea & Sea fiber optic connector - this came recommended by a seller - I don't understand the purpose If the Nauticam housing already has fiber optic cable ports and I have a fiber optic cable, then what purpose does this AOI connector serve? 6- M67 dual flip holder (for the SMC-1 and potentially the SMC-2 in the future) Have I missed anything required? Anything not necessary but nice to have? May as well consider these things now while I am placing the order and bracing for the pain that this will all cost... Thank you!

Hi Pietro We exchanged what's app messages the day before yesterday I was asking about the nauticam setup... Serendipity!

No, the A7rv and MF1 strobe can shoot up to 1/250. As confirmed by Phil below. I know this because I'm about to procure an LED trigger and deciding between the UW Technics and Turtle non-TTL model. Both can sync up to 1/250.