Tino Dietsche

I'd already had the idea of using the Divevolk housing. However, according to my research, the membrane used for the display isn't entirely problem-free. Because of the membrane, a vacuum valve isn't possible either. Concerns about the housing still being watertight are certainly justified; Divevolk housings aren't built to a high standard in certain respects, and an M16 hole is quite a nuisance. If you could get a used Divevolk housing for very little money, you could certainly give it a try. The USB-C cable connection can be easily implemented using empty Weefine connectors. Using a smartphone in a case without any control doesn't make sense in my opinion. As you mentioned, you'd have to turn it on before diving, and if the app crashes, you can't do anything. Battery consumption is also an issue, of course, as the automatic shutdown function would have to be disabled. A 4-way controller for controlling the smartphone in a case would be the simplest solution, but I haven't found a suitable, compact solution yet. I have a solution with a mouse controller, but I'll have to design and print a test case to see if it's still compact enough.

A solution with such a case and a smartphone or a simple display is certainly worth considering. However, most monitors available on the market won't work with such a case because they're too thick and have a battery on the back, which takes up space. A smartphone seems simple at first glance, but at closer glance, problems like the operation become apparent. You should be able to open an app, etc. I've tried a few things. I've now come up with a solution through dry testing, consisting of an older iPhone and a mouse controller that can be used to control the iPhone. The cable connection is via USB-C from the camera and via an adapter to Lightning. As soon as I have some more time, I'll pursue the project further and create a test case with the 3D printer. If that works the way I envision it, there might be a version for real-world use.

Thanks for your feedback. In my case, the milling of the case was also done by a specialist. I might have a case from the series for sale soon. I can inquire and clarify the prices if necessary. When it came to the battery, it was clear from the start that I could do at least two or three dives with one battery. For this reason, we decided on a maximum size of NP-F750. This allows me to do three or even four dives. The Monitor is an FeelWorld Master MA5 ____________________________________ In the meantime, I'm considering whether I should create another series or another prototype of a case. Preferably even more compact. On paper, there are various approaches, including solutions using a smartphone instead of a regular monitor, connected to the camera via USB-C, and apps like Monitor+. On the other hand, various products are now available. I just took a look at the new WeeFine WED-5 Pro a few days ago. It's a cool piece of equipment, also quite compact, and at around €1,200, the price is still reasonable. My monitor case cost just over €1,000, including all the necessary sockets and cables, although the parts themselves were very expensive.

I've had the idea for a simple and lightweight monitor housing for a while now. About five years ago, I was able to turn it into reality together with the German underwater housing manufacturer UK-Germany. At that time, underwater monitor housings already existed, but they were either extremely expensive, large, and heavy, or mostly based on recorder monitors. But I only wanted a simple monitor, a sort of viewfinder replacement. For the monitor, I chose a simple product from Feelworld, as I absolutely had to have normal buttons on the device. We initially wanted to create our own cable solution for connecting the underwater housing to the monitor housing, but that was too complicated, so we opted for HDMI connectors and cables from Nauticam. The monitor housing is made of POM plastic and was milled from a single block. The front is made of Plexiglas.

Nice work! I've now positioned my monitor directly behind the case itself; it's the most ideal position for me. The HDMI cables for the case always seem to be a problem. For my monitor case (homemade), I use Nauticam cables. I find your "GRETA" interesting. Does it come out of the 3D printer normally? Is it completely sealed?

Hello everyone, I've now completed 20 dives with my two new AOI UIS-P1 Ultra and i am absolutely satisfied with my purchase decision. I've used the flashes both in the lake and now in the Red Sea, and I can only say positive things about them. They're fast, easy to use, and they have a lot of power! Even with dry gloves, the flashes are easy to operate. The displays on the back of the flash provide information about the status, battery life, etc. When the flash is firing at full power in TTL, an audible signal is given. Along with the new flashes, I also replaced my flash trigger and treated myself to a Backscatter Smart Control TTL trigger. This is also excellent, and I shot most of my images using TTL, and it works fantastically. For me, the big advantage of the backscatter trigger in the Nauticam housing is that there are no cables going up to the LEDs, which makes the whole process of installing and removing the camera from the housing much easier. Tino

So, I'm back from the Red Sea and have used my snoot adapter a few times. (I was mostly in the water with a wide-angle lens.) The conditions for using the snoot weren't ideal, with the swell. The adapter works as it should. I still need to make a couple of minor adjustments, but after that, I'll be able to provide the CAD file. Tino

One more test-dive with my adapter for the OS-1 snoot from Backscatter to use with the AOI UIS-P1. Next test will be in the red sea next week! 🤗

Hello everyone, My adapter for the backscatter snoot works as shown above. However, I also wanted to create a simpler version of a snoot for the AIO UIS-P1. I've made two different length versions as prototypes so far, and unfortunately, it doesn't really work. Since the focus light on the AOI UIS-P1 is in the center of the flash, it works perfectly, but the ring flash bulb on the outside ensures that the light isn't properly distributed through the "tunnel" when flashing, creating a darker area in the center. A flash with a flash tube in the center would probably work better. Despite these setbacks, the project is fun, and we'll see how it develops. Without some lenses, however, it probably won't work with the ring bulb. And because pictures are more interesting than text, here are a couple of impressions of the two simple prototypes. Tino longer version shorter version

Hello everyone, My snoot adapter has passed its first real-world test. Now I just need to adjust a few small details, and then the part should fit. I'll be sure to put it online when it's finished. Tino

Thanks for the input, the adapter doesn't seal tightly and fills with water, but I'll probably create an additional opening.

First test in the pool with my adapter for the OS-1 snoot from Backscatter to use with the AOI UIS-P1

Hello everyone, I recently replaced my flashes with two new AOI UIS-P1s and am considering creating a simple snoot for them. I've already finished a prototype of an adapter for the OS-1 snoot from Backscatter. Do you have any experience with a very simple version, and what diameters would be appropriate for the end opening? Positioning the focus light isn't a problem with the UIS-P1s, as it's in the center. I'm looking forward to your feedback. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Compare to the bigger body's like the A7IV, there are two customize buttons on the A7C Series. In my opinion, the A7CII/A7CR cameras are just as customizable. I switched from the A7III to the A7CII in March 2024 and haven't missed anything in terms of usability. Of course, the A7C lacks the Yostick for the AF point, but the better tracking, etc., makes up for a lot in my opinion, and I can move the AF point quickly even without the Yostick. One thing that annoys me about the more compact A7C series is the lack of a micro-USB or multi-connector. While I don't need it underwater, it unfortunately prevents me from using a cable release for my above-water photography. Tino Back of A7IV, C2 is on the top Back of A7CII

Hello everyone, Since the Nitecore NL2160HP cells for my new AOI UIS-P1 Ultra flashlight don't fit into standard 21700 cases, I quickly made my own transport case. However, the case also fits 21700 cells, such as XTAR. I hope this case helps someone here too. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino https://makerworld.com/de/models/1753850-battery-case-2x-nitecore-nl2160hp#profileId-1864902

Hello everyone, Thank you very much for your feedback. I've decided to purchase two AOI UIS-P1s after all. If you're interested, I'd be happy to share my personal experiences after the first few dives. Tino

Hello everyone, I'm about to buy two new flashes for my underwater setup (Sony A7CII in a Nauticam housing, Sony 28-60 with WWL-1, Sony 90mm F2.8 Macro) and I'm not quite sure which product to choose. I'm considering AOI flashes combined with the new Backscatter TTL flash trigger. Two AOI UIS-P1s would be an option, but I'm wondering if two AOI UCS-Q1i flashes might be a possible alternative. Both are in stock at my dealer and can be obtained quickly. Easy operation, even with dry gloves and a focus light, is important to me. I primarily dive in freshwater, often in rather poor visibility conditions. I go to the ocean no more than once a year. I make an average of between 40 and 60 dives a year, all with a camera. Roughly half of them are wide-angle and half macro. I've had two old INONs (a Z240 and a D-2000) for many years, plus I have an HF-2 from Backscatter for macro use only. I thought I'd ask the question here again; the feedback is always interesting and sometimes brings up new ideas and thoughts that I hadn't even considered before. With that in mind, thank you very much for your thoughts, Tino

Hello everyone, I've finished two new projects and uploaded them to Makerworld. Protective Cover for KELDAN 8XR and 4XR https://makerworld.com/de/models/1517614-protective-cover-for-keldan-8xr-and-4xr#profileId-1590074 Battery Case - two KELDAN Battery 8 https://makerworld.com/de/models/1517708-battery-case-two-keldan-battery-8#profileId-1590211

Hello everyone, I've created a transport case for a colleague's KELDAN Battery 4. It took a few iterations, but now the case fits, and the battery can be transported and charged in it. Perhaps someone here could use this as well. If you're interested, I can also make a version with two or four batteries. https://makerworld.com/de/models/1422555-battery-case-keldan-battery-4#profileId-1478176 Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Hello everyone, Since my used Nauticam WWL-1 lens didn't come with a back cap, I made a suitable one. It also works for the bayonet mount. I hope someone can use this. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1346497-rear-cover-for-nauticam-wwl-1-bajonet-mount#profileId-1388138 Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Hello everyone, I've put three more 3D printed parts online. Maybe some of you can use some of them. Strobe arm holder for IKEA Skadis pegboard for some float-arms up to 8cm diameter Transport case for two longer 18650 cells with length around 69mm maximal 19mm diameter Tested with three different cells used in BigBlue dive lights (3000mAh 3.7V green - 2600mAh 3.7V blue and grey). For the Nitecore NL1335HP used in the Backscatter MF-1, there is a separate version of the housing because the cells have a smaller radius. Battery Case - 2x NITECORE NL1835HP Some other Cases on the web for 18650 are to short for cells like that one that are use as example for BigBlue Lights. I hope these parts help someone. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

How much space do you have in the case for the connector? I can look for my documents if you like. My solution also worked in an RX100 case where there was hardly any space.

Today I would definitely do it with an adapter like this. When I built my version, USB-C wasn't really widespread and all the Sony cameras I had used Micro-USB.

Hello everyone, The Micro-USB interface is still an issue here. A few years ago I created a cable solution like this for myself and a few other people because the battery in the second generation of the Sony A7 series was pretty weak. I had a version for the Sony A7 series and also for the RX100. In each case as a pure charging option or also to load the data from the camera. I used S6 flash sockets as a base and I soldered the corresponding USB plugs etc. myself. With a little skill, you can create such a solution yourself. The connectors needed for soldering are available online for little money. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino