Chris Ross

Sorry to hear about the flood, but good the strobe appeared to survive. I can see a maybe 3 possible leak sources, the general integrity of the cap, the pressure relief valve in the cap and the o-rings themselves. This strobe has an additional o-ring sometimes called a sand seal that the strobe cap contacts when installed. I have one of these on my INON torch and my experience is there is no water entry past that o-ring, so that I don't get sand/grit on the o-rings and there are never any water droplets. My INON Z240 strobes always have water drops on the o-rings in contrast. Did you happen to check for water droplets on your o-rings? For the other two entry points, I'm wondering if it might be worthwhile to get a new cap as a precaution?

Are you talking about a Canon compact G series camera and asking about a closeup diopter to use with it?

Thanks Dave, in any case the video mentions they shouldn't be stacked. If people are interested to rty they could perhaps add an ordinary diopter (not a Nauticam one) which doesn't have the correction built in. If you already have a another diopter it would be simple to try it out.

There is also this: You can see in the image the MFO (yellow band ) appears to have a thread, however as @Dave Hicks mentions his doesn't have one. I expect the image shows a prototype version. The discussion in the video mentions the reason they are not stacked.

Yes, some of them come with M16 holes and at least one model has M16 and 1/2"holes, the M24 one is a bit inusual though it seems.

This link indicates it is an M24 "special thread" which may mean it is not the standard M24 thread , this is for an M24 bulkhead from Dive n See made for Aquatica: https://diveandsee.com/dnc-2119-full-hdmi-uwater-bulkhead-connector-m24-for-aquatica-a7siii/?srsltid=AfmBOoqb6-w77efZerGDDu7oTbm1T6pQshyTQWMT2oCn0UcObHbBEN5D I had a look at an M24- M16 adapter that I have from Nauticam and it appears to be an M24 x 1 thread this means the thread pitch is 1.0mm. It could be that the Aquatica one is M24 x 2mm - a coarser thread? They state it is a 23.75mm opening which doesn't seem to match up with the diameters of any of the M24 threads. You can measure the threads with a thread gauge but most people won't have access to these and less they can get assistance from a machine shop. You really need the exact specification of the thread so that it matches your housing and this doesn't appear to be listed online anywhere so asking Aquatica is a good plan.

There's two steps in the setup process, first is to get it into setting mode which shows a blue light once achieved and the second step is to apply the setting which should be followed by a blue light and buzzer. Do you get the blue light initially? Secondly to confirm, you are talking about the settings to be changed on page E-32. Did you make any setting changes as outlined on page E-31? I would also ask which trigger are you using and if you have tried using the strobe at it's default setting?

If they still prove problematic on your trip you might try taping the plugs for a tighter fit?

I think S&S cables should be fine, S&S strobes after all used to need the very best cables to trigger reliably, so their cables should be good.

Hi Tim, spoke to Don Silcock who is using one on a Z8 camera with the Nkon 8-15 and his is a "1.4 Teleplus Pro 300" model.

Nauticam cables will be good as will INON cables if you can find something. If you can't find anything see if there is an electronics store somewhere and pick up a couple of Toslink cables. The square ends of the cable will fit in a Sea and Sea fibre port if you round off the corners a little bit. Probably not quite a secure as the original but I found they worked. Just make sure you secure them to an arm so they can't float off if the ends disengage while you are not looking.

I'm not sure I understand the issue with the bulkhead, does the little rim around the M16 holes prevent you screwing it all the way in. One option might be an M24-M16 adapter if you find one compatable with the M24 hole and the bulkhead. Otherwise you could use the inbuilt fibre optic ports of the housing for one strobe as a stop gap until you could get a suitable adapter to use the bulkhead or perhaps you could get a twin LED cable to route to the two fibre optic ports built into the housing.

The thing to be aware of regarding housing sizes is that Nauticam designed the mirrorless housings so that the EF-RF adapter ( or the FTZ for Nikon) sits inside the housing with the adapter flange at the same position as the EF-camera flange. This means that the EF lenses use the same ports and extensions and zoom gears as they did with the DSLR housings. This means the housings are bigger from front to back. Marelux never made DSLR housings so was free to design from scratch on housing size. I would also mention that Isotta makes particularly compact housings, I a diver who got the Nikon Z6 housing rather than Nauticam because the overall package was so much smaller and lighter. Regarding the WWL-1B, this thread discusses WWL on other systems: The MFO/SMC are m67 and are covered in the thread as well.

The answer was that both SMC and MFO correct for the air water interface across the port. If you used both you would have double correction, which would reduce image quality.

Ikelite is made in USA as far as I know. probably quite a few imported bits and pieces in the mix I would guess.

OK I just dug out the manual and read it again and it made my brain hurt but, yes it (ACC) works in manual mode and switches off in TTL mode. The INON strobe magnifies the pre-flash so the camera puts out a lower power main flash. The fact that they have two manual modes now means either they have given up on ACC and have regular flash cancel or the ACC bastard switch has been combined into one of the manual modes.

I think it may be more like the existing S-TTL and S-TTL low which are there on the current dials of Z240 and Z330, I can't see a reason for switching off ACC unless it doesn't work well with some cameras. The fact the ACC switch has gone and been replaced by two manual modes suggests a regular manual mode and one which ignores the pre-flash.

What INON does and it doesn't explain this very well is that it gives a somewhat brighter pre-flash so that the camera sees this and turns down the main flash as it thinks the subject is closer. When the strobe fires for the main flash the ACC adjusts for a longer pulse than what the strobe on the camera delivers to get the right exposure. ACC stands for Advanced Cancel Circuit. This may seem strange, but they do this so that the on camera strobe uses less battery power as it turned down for the main flash. This is largely around dealing with compact cameras without manual mode on their built in flash and small batteries which pretty much don't exist any more, even the TG-6 offers manual flash. So effectively they don't have a pre-flash cancel. If you push the button in on TTL it still works but you don't get the battery savings and the strobe exactly mimics the duration of both flashes. The ACC button (aka bastard button) is required as the strobe will treat the single manual pulse as a pre-flash and won't fire the main flash as it doesn't receive the second signal. The strobe fires when this happens and syncs properly but the exposure is way too low and seems to be about equivalent to about 2 on the power dial. Just speculating that they may not include ACC on the new strobe and have just gone to a regular pre-flash cancel setup so the strobe doesn't fire on the pre-flash. On the question of TTL, all digitals require pre-flash as far as I know as they need something to set flash power. In the bad old days film cameras had TTL that shut off when they registered enough light reflecting off the film surface. Apparently doesn't work reliably on digital sensors.

If the so-called bastard button is gone, you need to have two manual modes - pre-flash/no pre flash, which is the way it is setup on S&S strobes. The Z-240 has two TTL modes - one was a low powered option. Interesting to see how it performs when they finally release it.

You could try these, they make them to order and not overly expensive, I had one made for my Zen 170mm dome: https://bennimd.com/products/custom-dome-port-covers

It won't mount on the lens due to the protruding front element, the Kenko TCs are designed without this protruding element so they can be used on a wider range of lenses.

No worries, assume you have set the UWT board to mode 9 already. > Have you tried changing flash expsoure compensation from the camera at all? Try sending Pavel a PM he's quite helpful.

Nauticam clamps are good quality and a lot of people like the ULCS clamps as well.

The problem is it doesn't fit as it has an extension that sticks out: Others have proven the setup of sony 1.4x - metabones smart adapter - Canon 8-15 works. Maybe the Nikon Z 1.4x - FTZ adapter - Nikon fisheye will work?? If the nose of the 1.4x fits inside the FTZ adapter it has a chance.

The USB-C bulkhead is a good solution for charging without opening the case, needs a little care when opening to dry it off and needs somewhere dry to leave the camera on charge. There's a mini review here: If you are comfortable with electronics you could probably make one up from parts like this : https://core-electronics.com.au/polymer-lithium-ion-battery-2000mah-38459.html and this: https://core-electronics.com.au/dc-dc-usb-0-9v-5v-to-5v-dc-boost-step-up-power-supply-module.html and you would need to source an appropriate charger.