Chris Ross

Something like this should work: https://www.jaycar.com.au/m3-x-6-3mm-tapped-nylon-spacers-pack-of-25/p/HP0920 If the screws are M3 x 10 the spacers would be at most 7 or 8mm long to have enough thread showing through to screw into the housing. If the spacer is threaded it would make it captive to the board, possibly making installation easier.

Agree that there is no harm trying out existing domes you may have, however it also places the lens further from your subject, reducing available working distance and magnification, which is why I think the 4" macro port is favoured. It depends on what your targets are if this will present a problem or not.

I would suggest matching your UW lenses to what you might want to shoot UW. UW shooting is different in that the goal is to get close to minimize the amount of water between you and your subject. Not all good lenses translate well into UW shooting - the main requirement is close focusing and even then it pays to choose lenses that are proven UW performers. A lot depends on what you shoot and in in what conditions. Clean tropical waters are somewhat different to shooting in temperate waters where there may be lower visibility and more particulate matter to deal with. In the tropics for WA I like my adapted Canon 8-15 for wide angle work and it works nicely for CFWA as well. In temperate waters the narrower fields of something like a 20-24 lens are a little easier to deal with and you can swap between things like fish schools and larger single fish, big nudis and other critters which are physically large enough to shoot with a mid range zoom. The Tamron 17-50 I don't know I've heard of anyone using UW, the min focus at the long end seems a bit too long to work well UW. The 20-70 on the other hand has been used by a few people on the forum and is reported to work well. The 6 and 8" seafrogs domes might be a little small and not have ideal extensions to work with lenses in the 16-17mm range and corner performance may suffer. This becomes less critical at narrower angles of view and 20-24 lenses will not have the same penalty. Fisheye lenses are different and work quite well in smaller dome sizes. Personally I would try using what you have now for a while and see what you find you are missing out on in experience. Again though this might vary depending on where you are diving and the subjects you find you like.

This is the standard way items shipped from overseas are handled. Any business can only collect tax on items sold in country or in this case the EU, they collect this and pay to the government. They can't collect any tax or import duties charged when the item is imported into another country as they are not setup to do this and many jurisdictions will only allow collection at import. That is charged prior to the item being imported being released. If you click on the ? next to Shipping, this pops up. There is also a footnote next to the price which refers to a similar note on that page: If I was to buy one and import into Australia, the importer would collect 10% GST on the items value including shipping costs. Depending on the item they could also collect customs duties and also their handling fee. You would need to inquire with the importer about how much they would charge.

That 8-15 gear is for Sony either alone or with a 1.4x, it's reversible to do both services. Probably need to make it longer to use with a 2x.

You really need to read the fine print, used to be that a lot of policies specifically exclude water damage for cameras for example, including specialist camera gear insurance. Regular travel insurance includes riders limiting the maximum value for individual items in particular categories, so you end up needing to list items and it can get very expensive very quickly. For example you might have $10,000 cover for valuables but are limited to a maximum value for any one item of $1500 as an example.

It's really not a great deal different to changing a port except on a smaller scale, treat the o-rings the same way. As mentioned Isotta use a threaded ring to retain the viewfinder. The two holes they suggest using a small allen key in each one to get more leverage if required. If you have circlip pliers that's ideal, but the two small keys should be enough. It doesn't need to be super tight, just snug as the water pressure will hold the viewfinder in.

I believe that is what the EP is saying: moving 4 aperture clicks on a camera requires adjusting 4 strobe clicks if both of them are 1/2 EV each

Sounds great, though it's annoying a lot of these adapters etc. are being discontinued.

On the Canon 8-15 vs FCP, one thing to note is that for CFWA it seems to have less depth of field than a fisheye as is discussed on this page: The 8-15 with 2x approximates the range of the FCP without the DOF penalty it seems maybe at a slight cost of image quality?? Wolfgang seems to be quite happy with the IQ he's getting with that combo and the versatility is certainly nice. On the issue of TC order, the N100-N120 adapter places the Canon 8-15 zoom gear at the right spot to work with the bare 8-15, swapping position with the extension means you have to adjust your zoom gear to compensate. It would move the gear knob on the extension forward with respect to the lens. If I'm not mistaken the N100-N120 with knob engages with the unmodified Nauticam zoom gear to use the bare 8-15. If you add an extension (30mm) below the N100-N120 adapter then the knob/gear on the adapter moves forward by 30mm. If the Sony 2x is exactly 30mm thick it should then mesh again with the Nauticam zoom gear as the Sony 2x moves the 8-15 zoom ring forward by 30mm. If it's not exactly 30mm a simple adapter ring should allow it change position as required to be able to mesh. Wolfgang ( @Architeuthis ) should be able to confirm the dimensions. It should also be possible to do what I did with my OM-1 and 8-15 and design a zoom gear to use the zoom control knob on the housing to zoom. That would end up being quite a long zoom gear.

Probably the #36137 N85 4"wide angle dome port which they sell for the Olympus 9-18, 12-50 and Olympus/Panasonic 14-42 lenses. Seems like it is about as long as the flat port they sell for the Olympus 14-42 II lens. and 10mm longer the Pany 45 flat port.

Are you referring to the Nikon Z 28-75 that's in the port chart? It can only zoom 28-43 due to the lens extending, presumably hitting the rear of the WACP beyond 43mm. The port chart currently lists the Nikon 24-50, 24-70 f4 and 28-75, with latter two not zooming to full raneg due to extending barrels.

I suspect this would require a custom solution, but it would be one of the simpler adapters to make as a custom adapter as there should be enough room to make it as a simple ring with no addition to the extension. That said wondering is a simpler and cheaper solution might be to source a second hand Nauticam EM-1 MkII or III housing and camera?

The INON S220 is a great little strobe very compact and probably more suitable for wide angle work than the MF-2 and the buttons/dials seem like they would be easier to use than the old S2000. It seems like it probably has more output than the Z240 even. That said a single Retra might be a good option as well.

I do the same, my Maha I always use on soft charge mode.

Many cameras have the option to use 1/2 or 1/3 EV steps buried deep within the menus. But realistically it's probably not making a huge difference.

On the subject of using a curved port for macro, clearly the port shown in the video is nowhere near correctly positioned at the centre of curvature and this is discussed in the video. The narrow angle of view of the Macro lens means the aberration from incorrect positioning as light towards the edge of the field is refracted is much smaller. Clearly the mentioned port is going to be the easiest to use if you can get it special order. You would get similar results using something like the 4.33"dome port and appropriate extensions, but maybe not so easy to use? You would however need to buy one of the expensive N100-N120 converters as the dome is not available in N100. On the Nauticam #36471 n100-n85, the Nauticam website shows it in stock, though Backscatter says its discontinued.

Marelux just announced their monitor: https://www.instagram.com/mareluxunderwater_housing/p/DJ3GgRLzFcz/?img_index=1 Doesn't seem to be much data on it as yet.

Particularly with m43, there's minimal image quality advantage for using a large dome with a fisheye lens, though an 8"dome certainly will with over-unders. It looks like the only Pen housing to OM-D port adapter sold adds 37mm of extension which is too long to use with your 4"dome. The thing to be aware of if you went with the 8-25 is to resist the temptation to zoom in too much as opposed to getting closer. You do of course lose the fisheye effect if going that way. I think it's probably best to practice more with your strobe placement, particularly getting them well back behind the dome.

I think the risk with the longer adapters is vignetting due to the smaller diameter dome shade, compared to the 140mm dome. . Easily checked out on land of course, though the N85-N120 adapters are quite expensive these days. If you don't want to go with the 10-17 or 8-15 it may end up being cheaper to buy an N85 100mm dome, particularly if you could source one second hand.

Depends on which port, Nauticam N120 are easily adapted to Isotta and S&S, just by changing the lug ring. But there is very little I've seen to use N120 ports on smaller system ports like n85, or Isotta B102 which go with the m43 cameras. I think it probably unlikely to find anything you can use on AOI or Seafrogs. A lot of adapters have been discontinued recently, Backscatter still has a few of them: Backscatter.comBackscatter Underwater type: Port Adaptors - BackscatterBackscatter Underwater type: Port Adaptors

I suspect you would need to use a custom made adapter. The 10.5mm is not on the Nauticam port charts any longer, but I seem to recall it used no extension and looking at the N120N dome it appears it uses no extension either. The Port charts specify a 17mm extension for the Olympus fisheye , so it seems like there is enough room to make an adapter. This means you would need a 17mm N85-N120 adapter which is not made. As for buying the metal only part of the n85 DP100 dome I would suggest messaging Reef photo to see if they have that as an option. This is what you would need to buy because as far as I can see the aluminium part of the N85-DP100 dome is machined from a single piece of aluminium. It might work out cheaper to pickup a second hand dome is you could find one? An alternative might be to use a Tokina 10-17mm, you can buy a N85-N120 adapter for that to use on m43 with the Metabones speed booster. You would need the lens plus N120 zoom gear the appropriate N85-N120 adapter and possibly an extension ring to use with your dome. There are probably various options to allow you to use your dome in that setup. There are people on here using that combo including Wolfgang( @Architeuthis ). You could put up another post seeking experience with that combination and the part list if it was of interest to you.

In theory only the contacts need penetrate the casing. The little magnets don't need to go all the way through to work. Only way to tell for sure would be to cut one apart. From the picture the contacts seem to be stainless steel so should not rust. If you get a new casing should be minimal risk to file the old one flat to see if it fixes the attachment issue..

If you google a replacement battery it seems to show the back end of the torch complete with outer skin and battery contacts. It's not entirely clear though that you would get the whole back end of the torch. Agree that the magnetic contact seems to be a weak point. You could try scraping the rust off and then soaking in citric acid.

Just to clarify, are the contacts shown are outside of the torch? I would expect that the rust is from the magnets used to hold the charger in contact with the terminals. I would think that just scraping back the rust and also considering sitting the contacts in a citric acid solution it would cleanup nicely. Iron oxide aka rust is soluble in citric acid but it won't dissolve the iron that has not yet rusted. Also to clarify, is the new battery a complete unit with outer casing and contacts? It seems like a spare battery is a better deal than a new torch.