Adventurer

Yes, and from the information I was given that exact adapter would also pair with Aquista 110 (production series, not prototype) and vice versa. It would be nice if someone could confirm this.

Yes, I totally agree to that Davide. This should be the main purpose of 3rd party action camera housings. ..as well as giving access to magnified screen ( via HDMI or USB-C ) option. However... with the GoPro HERO 13 being the last ActionCam to offer an HDMI-Out and no HERO14 introduced in 2025 the future for buying an external monitor and moving this onto the next action cam looks dim. For Cameras like the Osmo Action 6 or Insta Ace Pro 2 you need to grab the screen signal via USB-C (Webcam Mode).

Hey everyone, I wanted to share a perspective I’ve often recommended to fellow underwater photographers when it comes to shooting blue water sharks, especially when you’re working with natural light and strobe combinations. One of the key points is that most shark species have a pretty neutral, silvery-grey coloration. In other words, you’re not trying to bring out a riot of colors like you would with a coral reef and fisheyes lens. That means you don’t have to worry as much about maintaining warm color fidelity at longer distances. In fact, if you have good visibility, you can shoot from over a meter or more away without losing too much detail. And when it comes to lighting, the idea of a cooler color temperature strobe can actually be a real advantage. Cooler strobes will penetrate the water more effectively over distance because the red wavelengths get absorbed quickly anyway. So you’re focusing on sharpness and light energy rather than trying to preserve warm tones that aren’t really there. In practical terms, using a strobe that’s a bit cooler and then adding a warming diffuser only if needed is a flexible approach. For typical shark photography—like shooting reef sharks in the Red Sea, where they don’t come extremely close—keeping your strobe on the cooler side and not worrying about warming accessories can give you the best reach and clarity. And one more thing I’d like to add is about your lens choice. If you’re used to working with a really wide lens like a 15 to 30mm, you might find yourself falling a bit short when the sharks stay a little further away—like in the Maldives or the Red Sea where you’re not always going to get them right up in your face. In those cases, I really recommend something with a bit more focal range—like a 28 to 70mm or even a 24 to 105mm. That way, you’ve got the flexibility to handle those sharks that come in nice and close, but also the ones that hang back—like hammerheads or thresher sharks. Hope that helps round things out! So that’s the gist of it. Hope this helps some of you thinking about how to set up for your next shark shoot.

Sorry for the mess. I should not give precision optical advice late in the evening without my glasses on! I simply overlooked the III behind puttsk‘s lens. But about the other remark by Phil: I got the info from a friend that at least WWL-1 and Aquista110 production units have similar bayonet and can be swapped. I think he even got the info from a Marelux employee. Can you please double check + confirm or deny this, Phil?

Actually I also had a long period, where I thought, I might be missing out on something, not owning a WAPC-C or other Nauticam Water Contact Optic. They are just so heavily hyped and raved by various (officially not paid) talking heads on the internet. The death sentence for WAPC-C was this very honest review by Interceptor121 : Interceptor121 Photography & Video WorkshopsNauticam WACP-C vs WWL-1I am conscious that a post like this is destined to create some stir, however it reflects over one month of testing of the two Nauticam water contact optics with my A1 and summarizes my conclusion …

Then you least cost route would be buying the WWL-1B + Aquista Mount: 55803 and the Macro Port 97 31302 ..both on stock with a dealer near you. Sorry, I did not see that you are from Thailand and thought you were Czech. 🤦‍♂️😅 I have also looked into Aquista 110 there and asked a ton of questions about it. The mount is identical to WWL-1 requirements and you should be able to plug your WWL-1B into the front. I am quite curious how this old lens will perform behind Aquista 110 or WWL-1B. Please report back with impressions and results if you will go that road.

..and that should have brought you to the conclusion not to use WWL on Canon Naughtycam Systems and put a 3rd party dome on your shopping list. Please report back WASO once you have some shots with what you bought.

Found my instructional post with sample images on how to conduct the final test:

Dear Chris, the database diagrams work great to get you as close as possible, down to millimeter results. It‘s worth exploring this and to move away from 5mm steps in extension rings that most manufacturers offer. The main problem is the dome manufacturers limited or wrong radius and glas thickness data which distorts or ruins the theoretical dome position. I measured a few domes (I bought used and sold again) to come to that finding. Once I applied the optical bench hub data and formulas to these values I pretty much nailed it. I was able to substantially improve IQ by working on 1mm tolerance. After computing the mm you have to do the reality check with a split shot test to confirm your theoretical approach. I described this in a forum post. I do not seem to find it but think the post was done approx 1.5 yrs ago.

Well, I am not sure if I can encourage you to take that path for 3 reasons: 1st You should check, verify if the Nauticam small dome allows you to detach the lens hood underwater. Otherwise you will be unable to shoot 8mm pictures. 2nd I have shot the Marelux 140mm FE Dome, which is rumored to be very identical to the above with the exception of having that removable sunshade feature and a special optical coating which is supposed make water drip off the dome front really fast with splitshots (I can confirm that coating actually has an effect). 3rd while you could think that the Marelux and Nauticam small domes are a full half sphere, they are actually not (if identical). A small part before reaching half sphere is missing plus it is covered by approx half cm tunnel, due to the frame the dome glas is mounted on. Issue number 3 results in the dome having to be slightly mispositioned and that you will be unable to nail the entrance pupil in the dome center. I have the assumption that I could squeeze out even a bit more corner sharpness on the 8-15mm if I am able to fix this. I am currently for the above reason considering getting a third party small optical glas coated fisheye dome from Hydronalin with also mm exact positioning. It will be smaller and more affordable but should increase IQ even further as luckily the Canon 8-15mm requires a dome radius of no more than 4.1 - 3.8 cm (depending on the zoom position). The smaller dome should improve the needed DOF for the field curvature of the virtual image. I'll let you know my results in the new year, I guess.

This reads a little ignorant of the facts and giving yourself away to fatalism and Blackbox statements… (claimed by some uw manufacturers and uw ambassadors). It‘s true that working yourself towards a premium underwater optical solution cannot be done by following only land based tests and lens criteria. But you have to start to work your way down towards the best lenses somehow. This was my point when giving you some directions. A flawed lens rarely can be cured by an underwater contact optic and it is no rocket science to understand the details that matter to get good results. As you are around for a while in this, I am confident you will critically and prudently search for an optimum. In fact I‘d like to read your personal findings in that journey here soon, as we are not too many fellow RF Canon shooters. My point was that (even land based) public sharpness tests for lenses are surprisingly scarce in the net and unfortunately there seems to be no source that has prudently measured RF and EF lenses under the same lab conditions. Furthermore Camera sensors and measuring techniques have evolved and not all lens test have been done on an R5 body. That means you have to pull together various sources and take everything with a grain of salt to get a clear picture and vague scale on what’s possible and how things behave when you are obsessed about uw sharpness in general and corner sharpness. Then take the interesting lens candidates and have a look where the entrance pupil is located and what their minimum focus distance (MFD) is. This is beneficial for domes as well as WACP, Aquista, WWL & Co. You will be able to boil it down to a surprisingly short list for the Canon RF System. Some of the very good candidates do not even appear in the manufacturers port charts. If you get a glas dome instead of your acrylic dome will have no real optical gain. The only difference for Glas domes is that they are more resilient to micro scratches and will last much longer. Glas domes have to be taken into the optical equation while most acrylic will become invisible underwater. I shoot a glass dome though.

Sorry, I still don‘t get which lenses you now actively own and shoot 🥴 - Do you already have the RF14-35mm ? If you are in search of highest IQ you need to start of with researching the lpmm performance of Canon lenses topside tests. They can be found on test sites such as lenstips.com digitalkamera.de or photozone.de etc Logically any lens combined with a perfectly sized and positioned dome or water contact optic ( such as the WACP, WWL, FCP etc ) cannot perform above their land design. It‘s at least very unlikely, I suppose. So starting of with that bottleneck factor makes sense. On lenstip you will find the following interesting statement about the Canon 8-15mm F4 L fisheye zoom: Which at that time of the review was record breaking 😉 - when you compare this with values reached by RF lenses today, even the basic kit lenses range above 50 lpmm in the interesting wide angle space. Your just cancelled order RF24-50 does have 56 lpmm / 49,2 lpmm (12 % falloff) in center/corner @ F5.6 30mm zoom. So generally preferable would be to host RF lenses over EF Adapted lenses in most cases. Also friends and users not owning a high megapixel Canon mirrorless might perceive optical performance as great and will not be able pixelpeep as intensively as you if they are still on a 5D Mark IV etc. In the Canon System the highest performer from the underwater lineup lenses is the ‎   Canon RF 100 mm F2.8 L Macro IS USM with 86,5 lp/mm @F4 according to digitalkamera lab test, to give you a rough reference on what is possible. About the dome I suggest you cross consult with Andi at Hydronalin Germany.

OK,… was there a misunderstanding? Above you wrote that you have the RF14-35 and not the EF.. actually there is just an EF17-40 F4 and an EF16-35 F2.8 - I am not aware of any EF16-35/4 ever build. Could you please clarify that? The Canon RF 15-30mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM is great but it does not make sense for you to buy it when you already own the Canon RF 14-35mm F4 L. When you think about combining the RF15-30 with an WWL type or WACP lens be aware that you functional zoom range will be limited to 28-30mm which turns this formidable wide angle zoom into a somewhat uw prime lens with minimal adjustment possibilities.

Well you already own the RF14-35 and a 8.5inch dome?!? Search no further! Just combine this excellent underwater lens with your dome (superdome had 9inch). Also the lightweight acrylic dome will be much more rewarding for split shots. Looks like you have everything you need right in front of you. Just get a zoom gear for the 14-35 and try to measure down the the perfect extension Ring with dome data and entrance pupil position on optical bench hub.

True, I second this! The very bad MFD of the 24-50 lens makes it also a pain in the .. underwater. When you are used to be able to focus right up onto the dome this becomes a real downer, as you cannot get really close without plugging diopters into the system. Generally the WWL and WAPC are highly overrated and will not give you better optical performance than your Canon EF 8-15mm fisheye, even when combined with 1.4x or 2.0x teleconverters. You already own the best for super wide. Your dome choice should be taken very carefully so. Closely checking my files from 2 years diving with this rig I now find that my shots with the compact 140 fisheye dome are better that those with a superdome 9inch sized dome. You really need a full sphere for this. It might be worthwhile to get an adapter for your old Seacam Fisheye dome, if you own one. Having said all the above. I shoot Canon RF and instead of Nauticam, I use a Marelux housing with which I am very pleased. I think it‘s the better Nauticam with some improvements in the small details.