Michi

Thx a lot for this link and your correction!!!

Thx! It seems than to be an alternative to the nauticam fcp?! If my calculations are right the setup 8-15 plus 2 tc should be zoomed all the way to 15mm be a 50mm equivalent lens?!

Thx a lot! Vignetting should be only between 8-11,2 correct?

Hello, thanks for the useful Feedback to @Wolfgang @Adventurer @jjmochi . Unfortunately I have the Sigma mc-11 and an Old Version of metabones nex to ef - my 1.4 tc doesn’t fit (like written in here before - the tc is too big and hole of Adapter to small but now you know mc-11 doesn’t fit as well… before I Jump In buying a new metabones Adapter: do you know if with the tc you can still zoom to have a wider field of view (like 180 degree field on the normal widest end 15mm without TC)? It would be critical for me to have a big coverage and a bit Zoom would be amazing)…Thx in Advance

I was thinking about WeeFine WED-7 or -5 Pro underwater monitor…

Thx for your Feedback! Good to know! I once had an issue underwater with strange Camera behavior after several overheating warnings (in normal Mode)… I am about to buy a monitor…

Hi Wolfgang, thx a lot! What Extension Rings are you using? Do you have Any clue about the Max coverage field angle for a „180 degree view 8-15 fisheye“ plus 2 x to at the windest end (without zooming in)? Can be also rough or in mm equivalent!?

Very interesting Report and cool photography! So 140mm Port plus 35.5 n100 to 120 was used but with What Extension Ring size ? Could a 1.4 teleconverter also work? Greetings Michael

Hi, @Adventurer thx a lot for your personal advice and feedback! I guess for now the Apollo is the best product for me @Dave_Hicks thx for all the effort so far - I appreciate this! it would be still nice if you can set your Camera to 10/15 frames per second and see what the Maxi does compared to the Backscatter a simillar decent power level! If this is not possible, just Let me know (i can Imagine how time consuming These Tests can be…)! @Kiliii Yuyan thx for your great Test and all the effort - very interesting I understand with a passing shark 5 shots per second or so is great but with for example a blenny eating algae from Seagrass and catching that exact Moment of the bite a high burst mode changes Everything…

Thx a lot! Do I get it right: 10 frames per second and after a drop? For me its often just 2-4 frames that are critical within 1/3 of a second to capture a certain behavior. I just need very fast recyce times but never more strobe fire than for around 10/15 shots… strobe bursts limit me at the moment and I am looking for a gear change :-( Would be interesting if backscatter hf is brighter / darker and has a fall off sooner/later or is faster at the beginning and have blackouts later… thx in Advance

If you can please go for 10 and 15 frames a second. It would be very interesting how Long the strobes Can keep up / how many blackouts you have in between. I don’t need super high power Levels but a GN of around 20 would be nice. I struggle at the Moment when it comes to high burst Rates wir my A1 And Ikelite ds161 and behavior shots…Thank you in Advance!

Is there any Information about how many frames you can take in serial Mode per second with what power level / GN? Would be even nicer to have a comparison to backscatter (single blackouts/which one is brighter?!) Thx in advance

Is there any Information about how many frames you can take in serial Mode per second with what power level / GN? Thx in advance

Thx so much for this great advice and wonderful series of photos !!!! I will build one myself and share my experience!

Thank you for this helpful Feedback! I will order one! Thanks for your advice!

Would you Upgrade from Sony 90 to 100mm because of the better AF and Bokeh? I would be also interested what @Alex_Mustard thinks?

Thank you, Alex! All owners of the Sony EMWL system can now breathe a sigh of relief :-)

Thx for your thoughts: I managed recently in some photos without the shade and low sun to get no flare… but I have also after finding out all time the shades on …

Thx for sharing! Can you please provide some info about your diy option?! When do you fill the sock with water/how to release the air… changing front element underwater a bad idea or not?! is there any special knowledge that helps to speed up my learning curve?

Thx for the sharing! I wish I would have known earlier and hope this post helps others!

Is there any news /experience what nauticam EMWL Focus Unit has to be used with the 100mm Macro?

Thx for the Feedback! Exactly this setting. I am really afraid that heat will cause a damage because it’s getting really got - even for touching…1. For how Long are you using your Camera Like This? 2. using The external monitor makes this Problem of overheating Completely disappear? Thx in Advance

I have recently started using the EMWL system and am experimenting with how I can reduce or eliminate floating particles between the three different elements. I bought the Nauticam Filtering Sleeve and am not happy with this option, as floating particles still get inside, or it is so tightly bandaged that I can no longer properly operate the air bubbles by turning the wheel to release them. The Nauticam EMWL Water Jacket Set seems a bit expensive to me at around 650 euros... Apart from that, I also keep changing the front element underwater! I do a lot of muck diving from the beach and often there are a lot of particles in the water. Maybe someone has some practical tips or advice?

I have come to an agreement with the camera overheating (filming in 4k/100p), but I still wanted to ask if there are any tips and tricks on how to get around the problem. I don't like the idea of simply bypassing the warning by changing the setting in the menu, as I find that the camera gets very hot and I'm afraid that it will be damaged in the medium term! As far as I understand, most of the heat comes from the screen! To what extent would an external monitor/external recording help? I look forward to your feedback!

Thanks for all the help from all sides!!! Back to my orginal topic: With the sun shades, I managed to eliminate reflections completely. The only problem with muck diving was that I ended up scooping up sand in front of me when taking pictures close to the bottom... And of course, you can't get as close to the critters as before... I also find the lighting a little less optimal with the sun shades – I think there is more backscatter in the final photo...