Michi

Thx a lot! Do I get it right: 10 frames per second and after a drop? For me its often just 2-4 frames that are critical within 1/3 of a second to capture a certain behavior. I just need very fast recyce times but never more strobe fire than for around 10/15 shots… strobe bursts limit me at the moment and I am looking for a gear change :-( Would be interesting if backscatter hf is brighter / darker and has a fall off sooner/later or is faster at the beginning and have blackouts later… thx in Advance

If you can please go for 10 and 15 frames a second. It would be very interesting how Long the strobes Can keep up / how many blackouts you have in between. I don’t need super high power Levels but a GN of around 20 would be nice. I struggle at the Moment when it comes to high burst Rates wir my A1 And Ikelite ds161 and behavior shots…Thank you in Advance!

Is there any Information about how many frames you can take in serial Mode per second with what power level / GN? Would be even nicer to have a comparison to backscatter (single blackouts/which one is brighter?!) Thx in advance

Is there any Information about how many frames you can take in serial Mode per second with what power level / GN? Thx in advance

Thx so much for this great advice and wonderful series of photos !!!! I will build one myself and share my experience!

Thank you for this helpful Feedback! I will order one! Thanks for your advice!

Would you Upgrade from Sony 90 to 100mm because of the better AF and Bokeh? I would be also interested what @Alex_Mustard thinks?

Thank you, Alex! All owners of the Sony EMWL system can now breathe a sigh of relief :-)

Thx for your thoughts: I managed recently in some photos without the shade and low sun to get no flare… but I have also after finding out all time the shades on …

Thx for sharing! Can you please provide some info about your diy option?! When do you fill the sock with water/how to release the air… changing front element underwater a bad idea or not?! is there any special knowledge that helps to speed up my learning curve?

Thx for the sharing! I wish I would have known earlier and hope this post helps others!

Is there any news /experience what nauticam EMWL Focus Unit has to be used with the 100mm Macro?

Thx for the Feedback! Exactly this setting. I am really afraid that heat will cause a damage because it’s getting really got - even for touching…1. For how Long are you using your Camera Like This? 2. using The external monitor makes this Problem of overheating Completely disappear? Thx in Advance

I have recently started using the EMWL system and am experimenting with how I can reduce or eliminate floating particles between the three different elements. I bought the Nauticam Filtering Sleeve and am not happy with this option, as floating particles still get inside, or it is so tightly bandaged that I can no longer properly operate the air bubbles by turning the wheel to release them. The Nauticam EMWL Water Jacket Set seems a bit expensive to me at around 650 euros... Apart from that, I also keep changing the front element underwater! I do a lot of muck diving from the beach and often there are a lot of particles in the water. Maybe someone has some practical tips or advice?

I have come to an agreement with the camera overheating (filming in 4k/100p), but I still wanted to ask if there are any tips and tricks on how to get around the problem. I don't like the idea of simply bypassing the warning by changing the setting in the menu, as I find that the camera gets very hot and I'm afraid that it will be damaged in the medium term! As far as I understand, most of the heat comes from the screen! To what extent would an external monitor/external recording help? I look forward to your feedback!

Thanks for all the help from all sides!!! Back to my orginal topic: With the sun shades, I managed to eliminate reflections completely. The only problem with muck diving was that I ended up scooping up sand in front of me when taking pictures close to the bottom... And of course, you can't get as close to the critters as before... I also find the lighting a little less optimal with the sun shades – I think there is more backscatter in the final photo...

I've heard of people buying their license via VPN from Turkey and saving money that way?!

Thanks for the feedback! i will give it a try soon!

Thank you for your example work and explanation. How would you remove the EMWL reflection parts in the photo I marked in photoshop? With a "clone" tool? I work with Gimp and there is a "heal" and "clone" tool but I think it is very time consuming and feels like kind of "painting the photo"...

Thank you for the compliment! With the blue parts I agree it´s easy but I find editing the part of the anemone's arms quite challenging to do it perfectly and it s time consuming... May I ask how you would approach the editing in general and what software you are? And how long will you spend on these parts editing to get a proper result? Here is another example for a reasonable photo but terrible reflections on the diver....

Thanks also for thise response to my problem! During my last dive, I had the shades attached to a carabiner and used them whenever I felt like it... Unfortunately, this means I can't illuminate nearby objects very well... But otherwise, if everything worked perfectly, it would be too easy ;-) Thanks for the props - I am a beginner with this system by step by step I am getting closer to shots I am happy with :-)

Thanks a lot! I got now shades and so far I cant reproduce these reflections but just did two dives...

Hi Davide, thanks for your tip! I am wondering: Was it also with an EMWL or in a non wet lens and a normal port? So you covered the macro lens?! Thanks in advance

Hi Luko, thanks for your response: I had also more the feeling of a reflection but I dont know how a real reflection could be possible... I will try the sun shade first and guess this is the solution... But I post in here if I can get rid of this with a sun shade! shooting directly in the sun was by the way no problem...