Architeuthis

In the AF/MF submenue (A7R5), I have set "Aperture Drive" to the option "Focus priority". As far as I understand, the AF works then at the widest aperture possible and just closes down to the selected value immediately when the photo is taken... AF most times is o.k. with Canon 8-15mm/2xTC (f/8 widest possible), but when light becomes dim it can struggles sometimes... Concerning the brightness of the EVF during review, I have set "Setup>Finder/Monitor>Viewfinder Brightness" to "Manual" and set Brightness value there to "0" (=neutral)...

I am in a similar situation: I was first time on Maledives in March 2026 (island of Omadhoo). I had Sony A7R5 with adapted Canon 8-15mm/2x Sony TC/Nauticam 140mm domeport for WA. Similar AOV'S compared to Tokina on APS-C. Really great scenarios with plenty of reefsharks, that are unfeeded/unbaited and hence do not come close. Vis was not great and the particles in the water are too many in most cases and demand heavy postprocessing. Here some sample photos: #1.: 1/160s; f/9; ISO 400; 29,9mm; 2*HF-1 (4500K diffusers). #2.: 1/200s; f/10; ISO500; 29,9mm; 2*HF-1 (4500K diffusers). #3.: 1/200s; f/9; ISO 320; 24mm; 2* HF-1 (4500K). In November we will return to Maledives (Rashdoo and Omadhoo again) and I am thinking now about equipment to take with me. One thing I have learned is that I will take this time the XL "shark arms" for the flashes with me (for better lighting and better avoiding the backscatter; XL&L arms instead of L&M) Which WA setup seems the optimum (I have them all at home, but can take only one with me)? A.: Canon 8-15mm/2x Sony TC/Nauticam 140mm again (my favorite): Already at 30mm (fisheye) the vis plus particles are rate limiting. No benefit from a setup that would provide better zoom in-capabilities (as WACP-C). My only complaint is f/8 as the widest aperture that makes AF sometimes slow (when deeper). B.: Sony 28-60mm/WACP-C: Provides a little more zoom-in capability at similar IQ, but as explained, the more narrow AOV is not a real benefit. Aperture is wider, so AF may work a little better. For non-shark reefscenes I would, however, miss the diagonal 180° (only 130° with WACP-C). C.: Sony 20-70mm (and Tokina 17-28mm)/Zen DP170: Highest IQ and @20mm(@17mm) still good for the sharks/rays. No big scene, however. Wolfgang

An update of LRc became available (15.6). I was curious and updated LRc. I tried with PS v27.10, but the problem still persists... ☹️ => Better still wait for newer PS version...

I use Adobe LRc and PS on Macbook Pro M1, latest OS (26.6.2). After updating PS from v27.9.1 to v27.10 I noticed that, out from LRc, I cannot edit an image in PS. The command is still there and can be activated ("Edit in Adobe Photoshop 2026"), but the image does not become displayed in PS... Google KI says this is a known bug of PS 27.10 and recommends downgrading to v27.9 - I downgraded and now it works again. => better wait with upgrading PS until this bug gets repaired... Wolfgang

I have used the Tokina few times with Zen DP170 with Oly MFT camera. It worked very good, although the DP170 is nit a hemispherical domeport, but a smaller section of a sphere. The example images are in the old forum. See here for the Nauticam recommendations: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1veVw6bFyoFx3JdFk-vo7He2jTde-xaTo/view

Did you follow the recommendations by, e.g., dustpatrol for making the test photos above the water? The dots look indeed like dust, bvery likely the sensor needs cleaning...

Same problem here (Macbook Pro M1)...

Lens is sold now... Macroport 105 N100 still available (220 Euro inkl. shipping within EU)...

See here at the Nauticam port charts: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1caMOa2cyCxucdcAiI8q9UsUu1YEg9ImC/view #1.: Sony 28-60mm & CMC-2: max. magnification: 0,7x Working Distance 83-135mm #2.: Sony 100mm macro & MFO-3: Max. Magnification 0.9X Working Distance 0-1500mm => Sony 28-60mm & CMC-2 is the macro that you can achieve, but you get 28mm WA behind planboard w/o CMC-2. Opposed to this you get a dedicated macro lens with the bare Sony 100mm GM, that you can convert to approx. 60mm focal length by adding the MFO-3 (= similar to Sony 28-60mm @ 60mm). (The announced Marelux wetlens may convert the Sony 100mm into a corrected (= like domeport) 24mm WA lens, but it seems it is not available yet, nor did I see any real tests of IQ yet).

My wife is using the Tokina 10-17mm with Nauticam housing for Olympus EM1II plus Metabones 0,71x speedbooster with Zen DP100 (N120 version). In addition, she uses N85/N120 34,7mm Nauticm adapter plus 20mm N120 extension... => this is indeed a perfect and compact rig for UW WA... Regarding pedal hood: The hood is in the way, when the Tokina is used on FF cameras (not recommended, better use e.g. Canon 8-15mm with 1x glassless adapter then (if required)). FF people used to remove this hood then( not recommended, better use e.g. Canon 8-15mm with 1x glassless adapter then (if adapter is required)). A bigger image circle (compared to APSC) is required for FF sensor, the pedal hood already shows up...

I saw on the Nauticam homepage, that they are selling now MFO-3II: https://www.nauticam.com/products/mid-range-focus-optimizer-3-mfo-3 Does anybody know what the difference to the original MFO-3 is?

Focusgear is sold now... Lens and Macroport are still available (620 Euro together)...

Similar Internet user here...😁

Did you test also the Tamron 17-28mm? How is performabce against the Sony 16-25mm, if yes? Thanks, Wolfgang