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Sony 100 mm macro
I asked at Nauticam USA whether the "old" N100 30mm extension, supplied e.g. along with the WACP-C (#37401), would also work together with the N100 macroport 125 to house the Sony 100mm macro & TCs (as stated above, the portchard mentions only the type II extension (#37430))... The answer was positive: "Thank you for reaching out. And you are right, the first generation N100 ER 30 works for the same purpose."
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Challenges of Close Up Wide Angle At Night
I guess you have already tried to use a red focus light, but your fish do not like it? Many creatures do not recognize red and are not scared away while AF works to some extend...
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Sony 100 mm macro
The current portchard does not give MFD of the bare lens (1.4x), but shows other MFD values: 100mm&SMC-3: 2.4x/34mm 100mm&SMC-2: 3.2x/17mm 100mm&1.4xTC: 1.8x/105mm 100mm&2xTC: 2.7x/115mm
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Sony 100 mm macro
Thank you for this valuable info (better nor keep the old 105 macroport)...👍 Did you test already the 1.4x TC? (The current portchard says that the 125 macroport needs an additional N100 30II extension to accommodate lens&TC. It is not stated that the old N100 30mm extension, that is delivered along with WACP-C and many have already, will work also (some incompatibility?))
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MacBook Spec for Lightroom Classic?
I have always some programs running in the background (Mail, Reminders, Firefox, Loupedeck, etc...) When I open LRc and PS, I have already 20.45 GB RAM occupied (Macbook M1Pro (32GB). Smaller RAM works, but much slower since data are swapped between SSD and RAM then...
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Sony 100 mm macro
See e.g. Phil's discussion of Nauticams recommendation to use the 30mm extension (N100) for both the 1.4x and the 2x TCs (additional 17.1mm vs 27.4mm, respectively - the difference in end of lens to frontglass must be 10.3mm between the different configurations) According to the specs, the 100mm macro is 17.4mm longer than the Sony 90mm macro. Adding this additional length would give a 122.4mm macro port as ideal length (in case the 105mm port is ideal for the 90mm lens). Instead it is 125mm (probably the next doable length in 5mm increments) It is well possible that the difference between Nauticam and Marelux is not entirely due to the different position of camera in housing. It seems that the manufacturers do not care too much about some mm's more or (sometimes) even less. Probably a single mm is not very relevant in practice (unless it is the mm that makes the port too short, or the vignetting without (or with diopter))... => Better we test out what works best with Nauticam (as Phil does for Marelux; or buy the new ports/extensions that seem to have pretty high tolerances, similar to "self-made" solutions)
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Sony 100 mm macro
Thank you for this valuable info... 👍 Do you know whether the space between Sony 90mm and frontglass is comparable between Marelux macroport 97 and Nauticam macroport 105? I am asking as Nauticam user: 20mm extension to the existing 105 macroport will perfectly give the 125mm of the new, dedicated, port for the Sony 100mm lens, what is recommended by Nauticam. As you write, Marelux recommends 15mm extension in addition to their macroport... => in case a 15mm extension, coustom made by Saga, works also with the Nauticam 105 macroport, the same 15mm extension combined with the 30mm N100 extension is perfect for the 2x TC as well (44,7mm more is required in theory). (if nobody can test, maybe I will order first a 15mm extension, that I can use anyhow together with the 30mm for the 2x TC. In case it is too short for the pure lens, I have to order another 20mm extension for it)
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Backscatter HF-1 versus Retra Pro Max II
Dimensions of HF-1 according to KI (coud not find specs. on Backscatter page): The Backscatter HF-1 strobe has a size of approximately 6.34 x 3.70 x 6.38 inches (161 x 94 x 162 mm) with its ball mount. Its weight is 2.5 lbs (1.14 kg) in air and 4 oz (250 g) in water, including the battery and ball mount Dimensions of Retra Pro Max II according to Retra: Weight (2) 888g / 1.005g // 1,96 lbs / 2,21 lbs Dimensions (mm) / (height w/ Booster) Ø 102,5 mm x 148 / 173 mm / Ø 4.0 inch x 5.8 / 6.8 inch Buoyancy w/ Booster -160 g Buoyancy wo/ Booster -70 g => pretty similar, I believe the Retra is not really better for macro regarding weight and size... As already said, HF-1 works very well for also macro, but a smaller flash (that is then suboptimal for WA) may be preferable for macro...
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Sony 100 mm macro
When comparing the working distances between Sony 90mm and 100mm macro lenses it is required to compare working distances at comparable magnifications (e.g. 1:1) in order to compare the effect of close focussing on focal length. As you write, the working distance of the 100mm lens is shorter compared to the 90mm lens, but this is at magnification 1.4:1 instead of 1:1. Only when the working distance of the 100mm lens at 1:1 is shorter compared to the 90mm lens, focal length of the 100mm lens is in fact smaller at 1:1 magnification... It seems that in practice the way to increase magnification beyond 1.4x with the new macro lens is to use the TCs rather than diopters (Moreover, the working distances at high magnifications become sweet as sugar with TCs 😋)...
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Backscatter HF-1 versus Retra Pro Max II
I am another fully satisfied HF-1 owner, but I cannot compare to the other strobes you mention (Retra, Subtronic). When I cokpare to the strobes I was using previously (Z330, YS-D2), the HF-1s are a big upgrade (power and also the 4500K diffusers).. HF-1 works very well also for macro (a special optical snoot is under development as Backscatter confirmed recently). It is, however, big and one may wish to have smaller strobes for macro... On my last trip in September, where it was possible to transport all gear by car, I had two MF-1 plus two MF-2 (one with snoot) with me. The MF-2s for macro. After few dives I switched to MF-1s, even for macro, as the MF-2s were too weak for my tase... On my next trip that starts November 12nd and is "lugagge-sensitive", I will take with me two HF-1 plus one MF-2 with snoot (probably the last trip with MF-2; when the HF-1 snoot will come out, I probably will also use HF-1 for snooting; another option is purchasing a Retra LSD for one of our five Z330s and then take the Z330 as a spare and for macro)... Wolfgang P.S.: I am using A7R5 in Nauticam housing, 90mm macro lens +/- SMC1, Canon8-15mm fisheye +/- 2x TC, WACP-C with 28-60mm and Sony 20-70mm behind Zen DP170.
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MacBook Spec for Lightroom Classic?
I jumped to Apple (14", M1Pro, 32 GB RAM, 2 TB SSD) when I retired almost 3 years ago and these M processors became available (In my profession I needed some programs that exclusively ran with Windows PC, no chance for Apple). It was a leap forward when working with LR and PS, I never looked back (although the reliability/stability of MacOS in general, reminds me at the earlier stages of windows 🫤)... I am using this laptop during travelling and also at home (at home I have a second calibrated monitor for photo processing). The laptop is still perfect for me for travelling - no complaints for standard procedures... At home I frequently use the new AI functions of LR and PS (e.g.: denoise in LR and also the backscatter removal by Erin Quingley in PS). Then the M1 chip comes to its limitations (amost 1' for AI denoising in LR or backscatter removal in PS; 61 Mpixel raw files). I read that the new M5 chip is the first of this series that has special hardware, that accelerates AI functions. I guess the time ripens to upgrade (the bottleneck is AI, all other performance is totally o.k.), but no hurry, I easily can wait for M5Pro or M6Pro... Just for travelling, for me, any Mx laptop would do it (small 14" for better fit into the backback), but I like the "Pro" because it has multiple slots, including a card reader (the "Air" versions are quite spartanic with just a single USB-C slot and I would nee dto carry an adapter with me (also o.k. but better "Pro")). When buying new, however, I would not go for an older model, the newest hardware is the most futureproof and will serve the longest time (buy cheap, buy twice...)... Wolfgang
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attach your dive computer to your camera?
Maybe I give my wife to the guide, but never my camera...😄
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Help with Printing some of my shots printed for artwork
I totally agree what regards viewing the photos on a calibrated monitor that has wider gamut than sRGB (BenQ SW270c in my case). aRGB gives better colors... When it comes to send the photos to a service for printing out, it depends on the service (most have just sRGB or similar and do not not provide a color profile; high end publishers have better printing devices and provide color profiles - aRGB is preferable in such a case). When I process and view my photos in aRGB and use such a simple service, the end results are less predictable and deviate more from the photo I see in aRGB on the monitor, compared to processing and sending in sRGB. Therefore I prefer to process and send in sRGB, the end result is just more close to what I see on the monitor... => Anyway the greatest step for me was switching to a calibrated monitor. Before using a calibrated monitor the end results were pretty unpredictable...
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First dome port
I want to say that there is no need to use domes other than made for Nauticam. Acryl ports are cheaper and optical glass ports are heavier and more expensive, but more durable and have better resistance to flare. Both are offered for Nauticam system as well at similar pricing compared to S&S (no adapter needed)... In addition to what Chris is writing, there is the option to use fisheye lenses (you write that WWL is often not wide enough). They offer widest angle and work with small and light ports (Zen 100mm or Nauticam 140mm), but they are not recommended for rectilinear lenses as e.g. your 12-50mm (I read repeatedly, however, that some people are using these hemispherical fisheye ports also for rectilinear WA lenses; My guess would be that e.g. your 12-50mm, at 12mm, works better behind 100mm domeport compared to planport in case the extension is the right length (at 50mm there should be no IQ difference compared to planport, but 50mm remains 50mm instead of getting longer because of "diving-mask" effect that the planport has)). Either native 8mm, as Zuiko, or Canon 8-15mm adapted work very well behind Zen 100 domeport for MFT cameras. (The Canon version is not the cheapest, but offers widest fisheye AND practically replaces the need for WWL since offering zoom out capability as well; this combo is clearly smaller and probably also lighter compared to WWL)... Wolfgang
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Sony 100 mm macro
I guess it is one of the custom made ones, see here: https://sagadive.com/en/trabajos-a-medida/#