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Architeuthis

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    Austria
  1. What you describe is exactly the situation for many macro photos... In many WA photos, however, shutter speed, aperture and ISO are adjusted to give enough ambient light for the background, otherwise the photo may look as beeing from a nightdive (when everything is mostly lit by the flash(es)). Flashe(es) are normally only able to light the foreground object(s)... When a little deeper, even in very clear waters and sunshine (not to speak about our lakes)), the camera settings come soon to their borders to give a pleasant background (motion blurr, corner sharpness, noise and sometimes even dynamic range)...
  2. The focus light is seldom visible in the photo. Especially when using red focus light it can be distracting, however. There are plenty of lighths in different strengths available with "Auto-Off" function. I do not see a reason to acquire one without this function... I have the precursor of the WeeFine 2600 Smartfocus lamp (I think it is now WeeFine 3500, but models have changed). "Auto Off" does not require anything additional, it can be used as a wholesome night dive lamp as well and, if necessary, it can serve as lamp for the occasional video...
  3. Problem solved: I just saw the "edit" button to the right...😄
  4. I just have put my Sony 90mm macro lens, Focus gear and the nauticam macroport in the marketplace... I listed the individual items and added the entire package (=cheaper) as a separate item. Now the sum shown is the individual items plus the package... => Nobody will have a closer look when seeing this false price... => How can I edit the announce and cancel the package? Thanks, Wolfgang
  5. For Sale €780.00 Empersdorf, Austria, EU

    Selling Sony 90mm f/2.8 macro lens (SEL90M28G), Nauticam focus gear (SKU#36175) and N100 macroport 105 for 90mm lens (SKU#37126). Signs of using, but …

  6. Architeuthis posted a listing in in Marketplace Strobes & Video Lights
    For Sale €250.00 Empersdorf, Austria, EU

    250 Euro, shipping within EU included (no shipping tp US) Payment via PayPal or bank transfer

  7. new price (shipping within EU included; no shipping to USA): Sony 90mm macro lens (new: 799 Euro): asking 400 Euro Focus gear (new: 220 Euro): asking 120 Euro Macroport 105 (new: 440 Euro): asking 260 Euro selling together as set for 740 Euro (preferred).
  8. Item is available again (shipping to US turned out to be extremely difficult): 250 Euro, shipping within EU included (no shipping tp US)
  9. You mean MFO-3 (or did you use MFO-1 with LX10)? I have MFO-3 and this diopter clearly improves IQ by reducing (the rather large) distance to medium size subjects (and decreasing focal length) and hence reducing the detoriating effect of water on IQ (Sony 100mm GM)...
  10. This does not sound good, since distance to subject is greatly reduced by MFO-1 (I do not own MFO-1). Using the 1,4x TC seems to be the much better way to increase magnification to me (at least with Sony 100mm GM; with other lenses TCs might not be possible). Storytelling says that MFO-1 improves IQ (at least in theory), but I did not see a rigorous demonstration yet (e.g. testchards)...
  11. Is it known whether the distance (front element (port or MFO-1, depending on usage) to object at 1.4x (both with and w/o) MFO-1 is the same?
  12. This is an aspect that people who unrestrainedly use and recommend BBF (like myself) overlook: everybodies hands as well as the construction of camera houses are different and do not fit together always... 👍 My personal situation concerned, when I take/took my Nauticam housings (EM5II/EM1II/A7R5) UW into my hands, the dumb is aready sitting rigth an the BBF lever and the index finger touches the shutter. It could not be easier and more relaxed... But what about left handed, different anatomy of hands or different housing manufacturer? Using AF together with shutter release requires a fine sense of touch in the index finger and also some practice: I am sure I would produce an enormous number of failures by pressing incidentially the shutter too soon...
  13. Ah, scientific documentation is a major goal... Then it very well might be that the choice of lenses is further narrowed - e.g. I am not sure that 180° fisheye is the right lens for this purpose. The Subal PPO with an excellent 16-35mm WA lens MAY BE the king here (but I do know nothing about UW archeology and optimum lens types)... => Better ask these UW archeologists which lenses are useful...
  14. Here I have found an article by two very serious UW photographers about this issue (also available as video): Inside ScubaMastering Underwater Autofocus with Alex Mustard and Matt...Expert tips from Alex Mustard and Matthew Sullivan on mastering autofocus for underwater photography. Learn the best settings for macro and wide-angle.It seems even these guys have different preferences regarding this aspect (but I think what they say regards modern, up-to-date cameras)...
  15. I am not sure that I am a "serious" UW photographer, but since I read about dumb focus in Alex Mustards book, years ago, I use it and it helps a lot. I should add that I always had Nauticam housings that have a special lever for it, just placed were the dumb of the right hand is located... Wolfgang

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