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Architeuthis

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  1. According to the Nauticam portcharts, the Sony 28-60mm behind Nauticam N100 45 flat port gives up to 0,9x magnification and working distances between 55-80mm with CMC-1, while CMC-2 gives up to 0,7x and distances of 83-135mm (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1caMOa2cyCxucdcAiI8q9UsUu1YEg9ImC/view) In addition, 28mm is probably the widest what one would want behind a flat port. (I use Sony 28-60mm behind WACP-C, but never used it behind a flat port and/or with diopters, so what I say is theoretical)...
  2. Here is the assortment of different camera types that Sony offers, it seems pretty logical to me: #1.: Entry-level model class, very capable and universal: A7 Five generations exist at present, from original to mark 5 (A7V) #2.: Highest resolution and IQ, totally photocentric, not so good for video and fast action/sports: A7R At present in its sixth generation (A7RVI, which made a leap towards video and action, but still not the best for this purpose) #3.: High end allround model, high IQ for photo, fast action (e.g. birding) and good for video: A1 At present in its second generation (A1II) #4.: Specialized model series for fast action/sports: A9 Currently in its third generation, A9III, that has even global shutter (=zero rolling shutter and no limit to flash sync. speed) #5.: Compact series: A7C and A7CR Providing similar features as #1 (A7CII) and #2 (A7CR) in a compact camera body In addition they offer different types of camera bodies that are designed for videographers...
  3. "The only purpose of the dives is to photograph fish, and to capture them. Usually I take a picture, and then I try to catch the photographed fish (with chemicals and handnets - then my camera, attached to me, floats above my shoulder - it needs positive buoyancy). I am diving in NE Atlantic and Medit. Viz can be good, or much lower than 2m... " In this case (catching the fish after the photo, that is just intended for documentation) a hughe setup, providing the best IQ, may not be ideal (but it could work in case there is a colleague to help out (e.g. holding the hughe setup while catching the fish and holding the catching gear (and the already caugth fish) while making the photo)?). A compact setup (e.g. A7CR/Sony 28-60mm/CMC-1) with a single, TTL operated, compact flash is probably better suited to do the job. Flash mounted close to the housing (suboptimal lightening, but compact). A7CR certainly fulfils the requirement of better AF and (much) more resolution compared to most cameras and certainly compared to an old compact camera as the G5 is... There are comprimizes with very small and also the large fish, but one can crop for the small fishes... On special occasions, one could even deviate from the universal concept and mount Sony 100mm macro/SMC-3 (on flip) for small fish or a water contact optics (e.g. WWL-1) for large ones, in order to get better IQ?
  4. The argument that Fred may be shocked by the size/weight of a FF macro setup with double flip is very valid - so better have a close look at the different setups in real life and get the hands on them before making a decision... (I should ad that during my life as a scientist, I was a biophysicist/molecular biologist and fish documentation was never my target; I am, however, sure I would choose A7R6/100mm macro setup (and Sony 16-35 GMII with Seacam PPO for fish >35cm). Even now, with 70 years of age and beeing a hobbyist UW photographer, I am strong enought to lug around my FF setup without wailing 🤣)... When setup size is compared, my personal experience is the opposite to what you are writing (MFT (Oly EM1II) vs. FF (Sony A7R5); I cannot tell about APS-C from my own experience, so others should comment): #1.: I can say that the big difference in size and weigth is in the macro setup (both Nauticam housings: EM1II/Zuiko 60mm is perfectly small, smart and light, whereas A7R5/Sony 100mm is the biggest/most monstrous setup I ever handled (- but with best IQ ever)) #2.: For moderate WA (fishportrait): size/weigth difference between EM1II/Zuiko 12-40mm pro/Zen DP170 and A7R5/Sony20-70mm G/Zen DP170 is small. Both deliver excellent IQ. #3.: More WA (not requested by Fred): similar with EM1II/Canon 8-15mm/Nauticam 140mm dome vs. Sony A7R5/Canon 8-15mm/2xTC/Nauticam 140mm dome. I see no essential difference, but fisheye is not the lens of choice for scientific documentation. Better take rectilinear WA: EM1II/Pana 7-14mm/Zen DP170 vs. A7R5/Tamron 17-28mm/Zen DP170 - pretty similar in size and weight (I would, however take A7R5/Sony 16-35mm GM2/Seacam PPO for that purpose (rectilinear best IQ with low aperture number))... Fred's complaints (with G5 and a single D200 strobe) are better AF, bigger sensor (why?) and more resolution. Maybe he wants one small setup to do it all, similar to the G5 compact setup... Then Sony A7CR/Sony 28-60mm/CMC-1(WWL-1) may be the setup that meets his requirements best, with similar photography experience comparable to the compact camera? There is, however, no free lunch and fish from 10mm to 70cm will always be a (pretty flawed) compromise with a single lens setup. To have both categories at best IQ (and long enough working distance, what is certainly important for scientific documentation) requires ILCE with different lenses/ports... Of course two capable TTL flashes are the most important upgrade, even when continuing with compact camera...
  5. For small and shy critters the capability of the Sony 100mm GM f/2.8 to work with TC's (1,4x and 2x) is another benefit: magnification as well as working distance is increased proportinally when TCs are used - with TCs at a species-appropriate working distance even cropping may not be required... Only the very best for scientific documentation (and the setup fits the budget too)! (I must admit that in my former life I have been a scientist, hence comes this inclination)...😆
  6. From the setups you are considering, I would go for A7R VI + 100mm macro + MFO-3 (+ possibly MFO-1 on double flip): MFO-1 will not bring much, but with SMC-3 (2,4x magnification) instead, a 10mm fish will fill approx. 68% of the width of the photo (i.e. approx. 36mm). With the bare 100mm lens (1,4x) a 10mm fish will fill approx 39% of the photos width... Concerning FF vs. crop sensor, you can crop the photos made with the 67 Mpixel sensor also in postprocessing to the dimensions of APS-C or MFT without any loss of IQ (in case you do not mind the big setup)... In case size matters, I would go for MFT with Zuiko 60mm +/- MFO-3 (CMC-1 is required only when very small objects are going to be photographed)...
  7. What you describe is exactly the situation for many macro photos... In many WA photos, however, shutter speed, aperture and ISO are adjusted to give enough ambient light for the background, otherwise the photo may look as beeing from a nightdive (when everything is mostly lit by the flash(es)). Flashe(es) are normally only able to light the foreground object(s)... When a little deeper, even in very clear waters and sunshine (not to speak about our lakes)), the camera settings come soon to their borders to give a pleasant background (motion blurr, corner sharpness, noise and sometimes even dynamic range)...
  8. The focus light is seldom visible in the photo. Especially when using red focus light it can be distracting, however. There are plenty of lighths in different strengths available with "Auto-Off" function. I do not see a reason to acquire one without this function... I have the precursor of the WeeFine 2600 Smartfocus lamp (I think it is now WeeFine 3500, but models have changed). "Auto Off" does not require anything additional, it can be used as a wholesome night dive lamp as well and, if necessary, it can serve as lamp for the occasional video...
  9. Problem solved: I just saw the "edit" button to the right...😄
  10. I just have put my Sony 90mm macro lens, Focus gear and the nauticam macroport in the marketplace... I listed the individual items and added the entire package (=cheaper) as a separate item. Now the sum shown is the individual items plus the package... => Nobody will have a closer look when seeing this false price... => How can I edit the announce and cancel the package? Thanks, Wolfgang
  11. For Sale €780.00 Empersdorf, Austria, EU

    Selling Sony 90mm f/2.8 macro lens (SEL90M28G), Nauticam focus gear (SKU#36175) and N100 macroport 105 for 90mm lens (SKU#37126). Signs of using, but …

  12. Architeuthis posted a listing in in Marketplace Strobes & Video Lights
    For Sale €250.00 Empersdorf, Austria, EU

    250 Euro, shipping within EU included (no shipping tp US) Payment via PayPal or bank transfer

  13. new price (shipping within EU included; no shipping to USA): Sony 90mm macro lens (new: 799 Euro): asking 400 Euro Focus gear (new: 220 Euro): asking 120 Euro Macroport 105 (new: 440 Euro): asking 260 Euro selling together as set for 740 Euro (preferred).
  14. Item is available again (shipping to US turned out to be extremely difficult): 250 Euro, shipping within EU included (no shipping tp US)
  15. You mean MFO-3 (or did you use MFO-1 with LX10)? I have MFO-3 and this diopter clearly improves IQ by reducing (the rather large) distance to medium size subjects (and decreasing focal length) and hence reducing the detoriating effect of water on IQ (Sony 100mm GM)...

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