Architeuthis

First, let me thank heartfelt all the testers, who do this thankless task of thoroughly testing and comparing strobes - so that we consumers have a clearer picture before acquiring the expensive equipment... Just my uninvolved remarks on strobe comparison: I fully agree that in any comparison with the new Retra Maxi, the HF-1 is very important to include. This is the reference strobe that Maxi was made to compete with... Another important strobe to compare with is the recent Retra top strobe (I think it is called the MaxII), since this is the strobe that top UW-photographers rate as the very best ones with respect to quality of the light (even distribution and color temperature). Not a direct competitor of Maxi or HF-1, but one would like to know what one is giving up, when acquiring the power models... Maybe also the new AOI P1 strobes is a strong competitor, it seems to be something in the middle between HF-1 and Retra Maxi (some people here wrote that the backscatter strobes are made by AOI; indeed the chassis looks very similar, but it has a circular tube like the maxi)... (I think that comparison of the Maxi with e.g. Z330 or even MF-3 does not make much sense - these strobes are in different niches)

As far as I have understood the "shaving" issue, this was for photographers who (mis?)used the Tokina on FF cameras. The image circle of this lens seems to be bigger as required for APS-C and the shades came into the image and had to be removed when the lens was used on larger sensors... Yes, both Tokina 10-17mm and Canon 8-15mm fisheye lenses have been discontinued and must now be regarded as vintage lenses (RIP, two great UW lenses)...😐 As an incorrigible optimist I hope that proper substitutes (and a 15-35mm FF fisheye) are on the way ...

I'm currently thinking of buying a Tokina 10-17mm lens, only thing I'm not sure yet is about the fixed petal hood, which could pose a problem inside the dome port. Hi tailwind, I use the Tokina 10-17mm, both in 140mm Nauticam and in 100mm Zen hemispherical glass domeports. The petal hood is small and does not make problems... For comparison: with the Canon 8-15mm fisheye one can leave the detachable hood on the lens when using the 140mm domeport, but has to detach it when putting the lens into the 100mm domeport...

As the others say - it may be condensation, especially the last two photos... I am not sure that the black shadows is condensation as well, maybe it is condensation at the end of the lens or on one or both ends of the TC. Hopefully it is not the sensor (it may be a sensor on the way to die (e.g. moisture inside the layers). One should have a close look at all the components with a loupe (especially at the sensor with a special "sensor loupe" with LED lights, if you have one)... You could also make a test, in order to se whether there are any remains still there (but too faint to be detectable in regular photos) and to locate the source: first entire configuration (camera/TC/Canon8-15mm). Make focused (also defocused) photos of a homogeneous white wall. Then overprocess in LR (unnaturally high contrast/clarity/defogging) to see whether there are any remains of the shadows visible (similar to testing the sensor for dust speckles). In case you see some remains, first remove TC and repeat. When still there try another lens. When it shows up also with another lens, it is, unfortunately the sensor...

I fully agree - "fisheye look" is something that one loves or hates. Some UW-photographers hate it, but many like it (includig the ones that have wetoptics e.g. WACP/WWL from Nauticam (that also creates fisheye optics, but not as radical as circular or 180° diagonal as the diagonal angle of view is smaller (< 130°)))... I don't think that one should use the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye with TCs. This lens is developed for APS-C(DX) and at 10mm, starts more or less, with 180° diagonal (addition of a TC would, to my personal opinion, rather decrease versatility). In addition the optics of this lens is below average (on the surface) and it is o.k. for UW, but there are no reserves for "blowing up" the image with TCs. When using this lens on MFT sensor, the sharpness is better when the lens is adapted via the 0.71x speedbooster (that compresses the image circle and so increases sharpness on the sensor), compared to using the glassless 1x adapter (when using this lens with the glasless 1x adapter, the zoom range is pretty comparable to the WWL/WACP configurations BTW)...

What species of shark is this one, by the way?

Interesting - I did not know that the noise made with plastic bottle attracts sharks because they think there is a shark somewhere eating fish... I have seen myself that "plastic bottle noise" attracts sharks: years ago a guide practiced it sucessfully at Daedalus Reef/Egypt to attract hammerhead sharks at a depth of approx. 30m. It was very impressive, but I did not feel that it was dangerous (the hammerhead sharks there are shy and, unfortunately, other divers quickly approaching the few "scouts" chased them away, before the entire school showed up ☹️) I think there must be other, additional, factors, e.g. baiting/feeding that makes sharks agressive and dangerous...

The Atom flash with the snoot looks very good ... I have good experience with using MF-2 with OS-1. In the "snoot mode" the MF-2 has enough power for the way I make macro photos (not enough power, however, for my taste, when I use MF-2 without snoot). The only drawback of the MF-2/OS-1 combo I see is the lack of a red aiming light (maybe the new MF-3 has red light?), since some critters get scared by the white illumination when adjusting the frame... I am now thinking to acquire a snoot for my HF-1s ("Bazooka" as Adventurer calls it 😄). Alternatively an additional Atom flash with snoot, both for snooting and as a spare flash...

I had a look at the video, linked above by Tino. In the video Alex states that FCP/28-60mm(?) has lower IQ compared to the WACP;WWL/28-60mm combinations. This makes me doubt that FCP/28-60mm provides superior IQ compared to the Canon 8-15mm/2x Sony TC combination. It seems to me that FCP cannot justify the high cost, size and weigth ... I fully agree on EMWL, but low tide in my burse at the moment (the new Sony 100mm macro arrived just few minutes ago at my entrance door...🤗)

Selling Sony 90mm f/2.8 macro lens (SEL90M28G), Nauticam focus gear (SKU#36175) and N100 macroport 105 for 90mm lens (SKU#37126). Signs of using, but in perfect condition... Sony 90mm macro lens (new: 799 Euro): asking 470 Euro Focus gear (new: 220 Euro): asking 160 Euro Macroport 105 (new: 440 Euro): asking 300 Euro selling together as set for 880 Euro (preferred). prices include shipping within EU. Payment via PayPal or bank transfer.

Backscatter MF-2, used on few dives only. Almost like new.. Comes together with two XTAR Li+ batteries, barely used (the ones recommended by Backscatter). Asking: 320 Euro (including shipping within EU) Payment: PayPal or bank transfer

Hi Sabine, I have A7R5 in Nauticam housing and this is my preferred WA configuration (in this order): #1.: Canon 8-15mm with 140mm domeport and Metabones V adapter. With (more flexibility, even better as WACP-C, as even 180° diagonal is possible) and without Sony 2x TC (very sharp, but only 180° diagonal or circular fisheye view). This combo is quite travel friendly (25mm, 30mm and 35mm N120 extensions are required for housing both configurations). #2.: Sony 20-70mm f/4 behind Zen DP170 (best IQ as tack-sharp; 20mm may not be enough WA. Ideal for fish portraits) #3.: WACP-C/Sony 28-60mm (IQ similar to #1 with 2x TC, but widest angle is 130° diagonal). I never have been to Tiger beach, so others can recommend better specific configuration. I think when taking #1, you can take the bare fisheye lens for optimum IQ, but when you discover that you need to zoom in sometimes, you can mount the 2x TC and have zoomrange comparable to WACP-C, but 180° is still available when possible)... Wolfgang

Before I started to make photos UW, my wife was already making photos UW. I was the guide, overseeing the dive, looking for critters and also holding and positioning lights/flashes. This was very harmonic and we had a lot of fun (enyoing the UW world together is more rewarding than as a single person). This is probably the way to go, your wife taking over the duties of guide and gaffer (when she is part of your UW photography, it can be a lot of additional fun, also for her)... Since I decided that I want to make my own photos, diving is more caotic and less harmonic. We still show each other special motifs, but most of the time everybody is for himself working on her/his photos. We take care to stay within a resonable distance (not seldom this distance is, however, too long; therefore I take special care in servicing and maintaining our regulators/diving gear)... When diving in groups, I explain the situation to the diving base in advance and most of the time we dive as a separate buddy team, apart from the rest of the group, but we care to surface at the same place and time as the others (we are both experienced divers and I have CMAS3* certification (similar to PADI DM)). Only when conditions are challenging (e.g. strong currents and uneasy weather), we prefer to go with the rest of the group. Then making photos UW is less fun and a GoPro, instead of a FF rig, would do it ... Wolfgang

Again thank you all a lot for the highly appreciated information and discussion. A great stronghold of accumulated experience here... I have ordered now two Inon Mega M floatarms (650g bouyancy), a M67 lens holder for the arm and a Stix (FB10) float belt - to give some feedback... I will report here about my experiences after using them several times (together with the new Sony 100m macro in Nauticam 125 macroport 🙂) Wolfgang P.S.: regarding detachable floats to regular arms I have a budget friendly, robust and well working solution since years, that I can recommend (just to complete the extensive list given here; e.g.: https://engelnetze.com/en/float-cd-250g-buoyancy-91x45mm-14mm-center-hole/?_gl=1*9egji4*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQiApfjKBhC0ARIsAMiR_ItEz88oErkMq8qYquHvv4Mkluy26ew0lhVHPCk1WFpcA_tkt0rloYoaAtB9EALw_wcB)

I like diving in Egypt since the early 80ies, at least once a year. Red Sea is wonderful and close to Europe, but I must say that since (at least) 2000 it is overcrowded with scubadivers. Liveaboards can no longer be considered as a way to avoid the masses. Even to the contrary: last time when I was at the wonderful Dealdalus off-shore reef, I counted 20 liveaboards ancoring on the (protected) South side when beeing on top of the lighthouse, it looked more like a marina. Most species seen UW are therefore divers that produce air-bubbles (but one could still see and photograph the outstanding coral and encounter some hammerheads)...😑 On the last liveaboard trip few years ago, I was diving at Shaab Claudia, famous for grottos, caverns and coral garden (St. John area). There were divers from three liveaboards diving there simultaneously and it was just a mess. When I was trying to make photo in a narrow cavern, other divers were just crawling over me. When I would have known that it will be such a mess, I would have remained happily on board and renounced the dives (I know this beautiful diving place from many dives before)...🤣 In addition to the scuba diving mass tourism comes serious coral bleaching during 2023 and 2024, mostly affecting the regions south to El Quesier...😔 Is Egypt now cancelled from my list of scuba destinations? Definitely No - scubadiving is still good, Egypt is very budget priced, just four hours flight away and I have developed strategies to avoid the masses... #1.: We prefer housereef diving in small and quiet resorts that offer nothing but scuba diving (independent diving without guide and at any time you want). One can still produce beautiful photos, mostly macro, but also WA can be rewarding (when e.g., at the early morning before breakfast and before the other scuba divers come curious dolphins show up, it can be a unique opportunity for WA and will be a lifetime memory)... #2.: Special liveaboard trips, organized by and for UW photographers. A major driving force for the scedule of these trips is to avoid other liveaboard. E.g. on such trips, one organized by Alex Mustard, another one by the, went astray, Adam Hanlon, on each we had the famous Thistlegorm for two days just for us alone, accessible at any time (including night dives) for buddy teams of UW-photographers. Indeed perfect conditions, I think I never will book a "regular" safari again (I am not eager to go to such destinations, having multiple liveboards, masses of divers and air-bubbles and beeing forced to dive in hastily guided gruops)... For someone coming the long way from Canada, I recommend such a special "UW-photographer" safari (in case you want optimum chances to see sharks at the offshore reefs (Deadalus and Brothers) it should better be in autumn). Since one week is pretty short for such a long trip, add a week of independend housereef diving at one of the small scubadivers resorts... Wolfgang P.S.: I have done many liveaboard safaries so far in Egypt and all, but a single one, were good, many outstanding (In case you are interested, I can inform you about boats by PM)...