Yorkie88

I really struggled with the same setup as @Architeuthis when I was in Dumaguete (even down to taking a snoot and not using it!). I thought the shots were darker than I expected (after copying other people's settings). I use the NL2160HP batteries so should have plenty of power available. I got a couple of decent shots but I feel like they were more down to luck than judgement or skill! I just put it down to my lack of knowledge/experience in manual strobe usage, which it probably was mostly, but I'll be following this thread for any tips! Sounds like bumping the ISO up would be a good thing to try next time I actually get in the water!

But it says it's safe and supported by Windows 😂

I don't have calipers and my UWT is fitted so it's a bit awkward and possibly not 100% accurate, but centre to centre looks to be 26mm (measured left edge to left edge from the top which should be the same), bore looks to be around 6mm - guess a 5mm LED would work best for it. I can't really measure the depth, but the turtle trigger bit that goes in the hole (https://www.trt-electronics.com/shop/led-adapter-for-nauticam-sony-housings/6/) is 10mm long to the tip of the LED. I had to get these for the wet side too as I had the push fit connectors on my fibre optic cables: https://www.nauticam.com/products/optical-fibre-connector-for-nauticam-to-use-with-262162-pieces

Great detail on these! That first one is amazing! I really struggled to get good shots of them last month.....maybe I need an SMC instead of the cheap Inon diopter 🤔 (any excuse to get more gear)

Do you have a multimeter? Could you measure the remaining one?

Those will be specs of the drive itself, rather than the enclosure - seems to be getting tricky to find the real specs of the drives these days, manufacturers seem to swap out components for some models and don't always make it clear!

I think the MF-2 is the way - I don't have the port or WWL for wide angle anyway (I've always preferred macro!)

Sorry, I forgot to mention that! It's the Sony A7RV. Thanks for the test ideas - I'll give some of those a try and see if I can figure out manual strobe, it seems like most people end up using that anyway 🙂 I don't have the magnet for the strobe (second hand, didn't come with it) so I'll try and figure out TTL for that strobe as an option, but ultimately the MF-2's are probably what I want to be using......the D-2000 in TTL was my "trying to be lazy" alternative! I realise it's also pretty half as old as me so I'm not surprised things aren't designed to work with it nowadays 😁 For the MF-2, in case it's useful for anyone - the Retra Pro Max setting looks to work for the HSS feature

Thanks nemrod! The manual for the trigger does list a few inon strobes, but not the D-2000 - I just thought with the S-TTL sounding almost universal, it might work on one of the others. Maybe the 220 setting is worth a shot! Enjoy the diving!

Hi all, I've got an old D-2000 that isn't supported by either of the strobe triggers I have.....but I was wondering about the S-TTL function from Inon. I think it just copies the "camera" - so should any trigger theoretically be able to do TTL with that strobe, if it just repeats the trigger LED "pattern" for the pre flash then TTL flash duration? I'm not sure how to test it fully with the triggers (I have UWT and Turtle), with all the different options they have - but I used a TTL land strobe (godox 860ii) as a trigger for the inon and that seemed to expose correctly, but when I've tried the UWT on the Z-240, Z-330 and S-220/D-200 modes it doesn't seem to be quite right. Is there any kind of idiots guide to testing TTL on land with an underwater strobe to see if I could use that old strobe on my next dive? 😁 I just returned from a trip and it made me realise I have no idea how to use the strobes in manual as I've only used the pop up flash and S-TTL mode before....which isn't an option now I don't have a pop up flash on my new camy, and I've now got the MF-2 that don't do TTL for Sony, regardless of trigger type. Came back with lots of terrible shots, and I'm assuming it's mostly the strobe side of things that let me down, although I'm not that good with full manual either if I'm being honest so it's also very possibly a combination of both.

If this drops the 90mm down to 60mm, can you then use the MWL-1 on the end of it to take wide angle with a 90mm? That might be a step too far 😂

Yeah the TPU ring seems fine, I think it's just my printer that isn't quite dialled in so I couldn't get the plastic ring over the TPU ring when it was on the lens - that was the first TPU print I've done so I could have printed that in a way that made it thick or something too. I'm sure it's me or the printer that's the issue so I'll have more of a play with the settings at some point 🙂

There is one here: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/671-proven-3d-printed-parts-for-underwater-imaging/page/4/#findComment-15804 The gear works well, mines a bit hard to get on the lens but that's probably my printer not being calibrated properly - I might reprint it at 101% but I don't have the port so haven't got around to trying that yet.

Great reminder - been meaning to do that for a while! Ran through both of these for my A7RV on Friday after work and most of the settings menus were relevant for that body too. The strobe settings video sounded very interesting but I'm assuming that would be bit more difficult to cover multiple triggers and strobes etc.

Thanks for your help with this! Ended up printing a few sizes of this out: ThingiverseM3 round spacers by windridesM3 round spacersInner diameter: 3mmOuter diameter: 6mmLength: 2mm to 50mmThe 2mm seemed to fit best, in that when I stacked the PCB, spacer and the block, a 10mm screw stuck out 4mm, like the original screw did. My printer is a bit off so they were a tight fit in the block and the hole needed boring out a little with a bigger Allen key but seems to fit just fine 🙂 Now to decide whether to use this or the TRT!