Yorkie88

Yeah I had that zoom out option switched on, I think it still cuts the corners off slightly (it was back in June so can't remember exactly) - I think I turned it off as I found it easier to see less of the display but bigger if that makes sense. I'd say zoom out shows pretty much all the screen, maybe the far corners are a bit hard to look at but I would be looking in the centre mostly anyway. I tried to use my phone to take a picture of the viewfinder with the zoom out option on and off - not sure if it's useful or not though! Tricky to take a picture, you can see more with your eye I think, as you can change angle etc.

I have the old model on my A7RV, I guess that's 1:1? It fits and you can see most of it at the right angle...... it's my first viewfinder though so I don't think I can offer much actual opinion on it (didn't want to pay thousands for the new one and potentially find I don't like it) - I found it quite hard to use, but expected that to happen. And I'd probably find the 0.8:1 hard to use too!

I think they might all be the same port - their aluminium housing catalogue shows a lot of different housings but all the ports are in one section and all start with SF125 (I'm assuming they're 125mm wide?) https://www.seafrogs.com/Download/1828674072319315968.html https://www.seafrogs.com/viewfilebizce/1852611896599064576/%E9%93%9D%E5%A3%B3%E5%AE%A3%E4%BC%A0%E4%B8%89%E6%8A%98%E9%A1%B5v2_%E5%94%90%E5%89%91%E4%BA%91.pdf

Congratulations to @MatthewSullivan - cleaning up a few categories!

I did have the diffuser on the whole time I think 🤦🏻‍♂️

They look great - they should both hold themselves in, I like the look of the springy one for a bit of wiggle room on the distance between the holes, and also a way to hold itself in. I don't think the TRT one has any glue or anything so I reckon either of these would work well! You could always take some blue tac (or that sugru stuff) and stuff the leds in without a holder too as an emergency option!

I really struggled with the same setup as @Architeuthis when I was in Dumaguete (even down to taking a snoot and not using it!). I thought the shots were darker than I expected (after copying other people's settings). I use the NL2160HP batteries so should have plenty of power available. I got a couple of decent shots but I feel like they were more down to luck than judgement or skill! I just put it down to my lack of knowledge/experience in manual strobe usage, which it probably was mostly, but I'll be following this thread for any tips! Sounds like bumping the ISO up would be a good thing to try next time I actually get in the water!

But it says it's safe and supported by Windows 😂

I don't have calipers and my UWT is fitted so it's a bit awkward and possibly not 100% accurate, but centre to centre looks to be 26mm (measured left edge to left edge from the top which should be the same), bore looks to be around 6mm - guess a 5mm LED would work best for it. I can't really measure the depth, but the turtle trigger bit that goes in the hole (https://www.trt-electronics.com/shop/led-adapter-for-nauticam-sony-housings/6/) is 10mm long to the tip of the LED. I had to get these for the wet side too as I had the push fit connectors on my fibre optic cables: https://www.nauticam.com/products/optical-fibre-connector-for-nauticam-to-use-with-262162-pieces

Great detail on these! That first one is amazing! I really struggled to get good shots of them last month.....maybe I need an SMC instead of the cheap Inon diopter 🤔 (any excuse to get more gear)

Do you have a multimeter? Could you measure the remaining one?

Those will be specs of the drive itself, rather than the enclosure - seems to be getting tricky to find the real specs of the drives these days, manufacturers seem to swap out components for some models and don't always make it clear!

I think the MF-2 is the way - I don't have the port or WWL for wide angle anyway (I've always preferred macro!)

Sorry, I forgot to mention that! It's the Sony A7RV. Thanks for the test ideas - I'll give some of those a try and see if I can figure out manual strobe, it seems like most people end up using that anyway 🙂 I don't have the magnet for the strobe (second hand, didn't come with it) so I'll try and figure out TTL for that strobe as an option, but ultimately the MF-2's are probably what I want to be using......the D-2000 in TTL was my "trying to be lazy" alternative! I realise it's also pretty half as old as me so I'm not surprised things aren't designed to work with it nowadays 😁 For the MF-2, in case it's useful for anyone - the Retra Pro Max setting looks to work for the HSS feature

Thanks nemrod! The manual for the trigger does list a few inon strobes, but not the D-2000 - I just thought with the S-TTL sounding almost universal, it might work on one of the others. Maybe the 220 setting is worth a shot! Enjoy the diving!