Available light shots

Andi, the first link you provided is the Lee page for the color correction (warming/cooling) filters. You order those based the wratten filter designation (81x or 85x). An 81EF and an 85 would provide two reasonable powers. The Lee color compensating filters are here. The ones you want are probably the CC30M and CC50M. The "CC" refers to "color compensating", the "M" is for magenta (the appearance of the gel) and the number is the strength.

I don't know if B&H is an option for you but they sell Kodak, Lee, and Opti-Flex. The Kodak's are gels and are very thin. The Lee's are polyester and somewhat thicker. The Opti-Flex ones are too thick to use in combinations with your rear gel holder. You have to choose a size, but 3x3 is plenty of material. Here is the B&H site for these gels: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh4.sph/FrameW...SID=F6C998CE940

Hey, guys. What grey card should I use? I bought one today, but it's cardboard. I had it laminated, and now it's like a mirror.

Any suggestions?

Please correct me if I'm wrong but why do you want a "grey card". Grey cards are for film, to calibrate exposure and color during the printing process. With white balance you don't affect exposure so any light neutral color will work to get a correct WB (dive slate).

Please correct me if I'm wrong but why do you want a "grey card". Grey cards are for film, to calibrate exposure and color during the printing process. With white balance you don't affect exposure so any light neutral color will work to get a correct WB (dive slate).

Gray cards do the same thing for digital cameras. In fact, you can argue that they are even better for digital cameras because you can shoot the 18% gray and use it for custom white balance.

The dSLRs I have work wonderfully when calibrated with 18% grey. I use the expodisc on land all the time, and my colors are more accurate than any other WB setting on the camera.

Think of the color calibration during the printing process for film happening during the custom WB process.

I use the expodisc on land all the time, and my colors are more accurate than any other WB setting on the camera.

Hey Eric, do you think it will ruin the Expodisc if you take it underwater?

Or will the expdisc simply not work in an uw environment?

Hey Eric, do you think it will ruin the Expodisc if you take it underwater?

Or will the expdisc simply not work in an uw environment?

hmmmmm

good point! Maybe i'll just do that. But it's so small... only 72mm! I won't be able to hold it away from the camera and have it cover the custom WB area.

it doesn't matter, as long as I get a grey card in water with similar color at some point. I'll shoot raw, and WB later.

I won't be able to hold it away from the camera and have it cover the custom WB area.

Eric,

Why do you need to hold it away from the camera. I was under the impression that it was designed to allow the characteristics of ambient light to filter through it. Would it make sense to put a 67mm one on the PT-015 housing?

You may laugh at this but somewhere I read a home-made solution - two Pringle plastic tops with the lip cut off of one, inserted into the other, and then glued together at the edge. Who knows?

TedJ

Gray cards do the same thing for digital cameras.  In fact, you can argue that they are even better for digital cameras because you can shoot the 18% gray and use it for custom white balance.

 

The dSLRs I have work wonderfully when calibrated with 18% grey.  I use the expodisc on land all the time, and my colors are more accurate than any other WB setting on the camera.

But do they have to be grey? Would any object that is neutral in color work? I don't use custom WB very often but when I do I was under the impression that I could use a white card. I just tried a quick test shooting a grey card and a white card and they gave me the same WB. My point is wouldn't it be easier to use a white piece of plastic than an "official" grey card?

Why do you need to hold it away from the camera. I was under the impression that it was designed to allow the characteristics of ambient light to filter through it. Would it make sense to put a 67mm one on the PT-015 housing?

It's different underwater because the proper WB changes over distance...

But do they have to be grey? Would any object that is neutral in color work? I don't use custom WB very often but when I do I was under the impression that I could use a white card. I just tried a quick test shooting a grey card and a white card and they gave me the same WB. My point is wouldn't it be easier to use a white piece of plastic than an "official" grey card?

I *believe* that any neutral color is fine for the white balance, but not for exposure.

So you are probably right. Yeah. A white piece of plastic would be better.

Tips for sources? I have to get ahold of one TODAY or tomorrow, and I don't have the brain capacity to think this one out myself!

The white card may cause under exposures, it does when I'm calibrating Nikonos'

The white card may cause under exposures, it does when I'm calibrating Nikonos'

yep. but we're only using it for color!

I'm quite excited about the possibilities after reading this thread. Am I correct in assuming that these are all regular topside filters you've been talking about? Will these not be damaged by saltwater? Thanks.

Regards,

Norman/Swordfish

One more thing, I have a PT-015 housing which I understand is 67mm. Should I settle for a set of 67mm CC and color conversion filters or should I opt for a bigger diameter (some here mention 77m)? Will a 67mm filter cause vigneting on the PT015? Thanks again!

Regards,

Norman/Swordfish

Hey everyone..

GREAT topic

I'm at a bit of a loss though, I cannot seem to get the Singh-ray FL-B anywhere. I've now written 3 emails to S-R but they won't respond to me.

Okay, i have admitted defeat on that front, but i still want a filter for my PT-015. Would the slip in Gel types be any use?? or am i simply going to have to find a screw on filter??

As i'm in Australia, I'm having problems getting anything but weird looks. When asking for filters for underwater or fluorescent use.

Many underwater photographers are telling me "it cannot be done, you simply HAVE to have a strobe" Yes, we all know better, thanks to Alex, Craig and the rest of you.

I can get a Hoya FL-D (thanks for the recommendation Craig) but not a stronger FL-B. I can get a Tiffen, but am a little wary after hearing comments here.

Is there an easier option??

Is it as simple as getting a warming type screw on??

Are there other brands out there i'm not getting the low down on?

After HOURS on the net searching for filter manufacturers, they all seem not too keen to help. Don't they want to sell their product??

I bought a paper here in Oz called the "photographic trader" I've just about called all the major and not so major retaillers that even hint to anything to do with filters.

I know of at least one other person here in Aust. in the same boat. (hi Jo!!)

Any comments from the Gurus B) will be appreciated.

Dave

To all you Oly Guyz and small camera people:

Juts try to buy the Lee FL-D Filter and cut out a piece which you can fit inside the housing. We'll do the same to put it between lense and glass from the inside. In most cases the housing is that small that you do not have to fix it with nasty things like glue etc. I'll let you know what comes out of our try with the Fantasea housing.

Best Regards, Andi

On Sunday Giles Shaxted and I did a text dive using a strong red filter cut out of a Lee filter samples book (that I got for free). We had no idea about CC strength of anything, we just wanted to see what a ramdom bit of filter would do with in situ tuned white balance.

We were working at about 10m (30') and were pleased with the shots. OK they are nothing amazing, but it shows that as a starting point just using a cheap bit of red or magenta filter (doesn't even have to be optical quality) is a good way of getting going with this technique.

Alex and Giles

And this is another image from the dive showing Giles using the grey card (it is grey on the side facing his camera!).

Alex

Filters, cut to 1.25" square for Canon 15mm and Canon 16-35mm lenses.

Hey Eric, do you think it will ruin the Expodisc if you take it underwater?

Or will the expdisc simply not work in an uw environment?

hmmmmm

 

good point! Maybe i'll just do that. But it's so small... only 72mm! I won't be able to hold it away from the camera and have it cover the custom WB area.

 

it doesn't matter, as long as I get a grey card in water with similar color at some point. I'll shoot raw, and WB later.

Eric,

I asked Diane Wallace, daughter of the inventor about underwater use. This is her reply. thought you might be interested.

The Expo/Disc should work great underwater. If you put it in a waterproof bag or housing no water will get inside where it could promote mold or algae. If that happened, I would recommend rinsing it well to remove impure water, and then soaking it in distilled water with 10% Clorox solution to prevent growths in the interior parts.

With no batteries and no mechanical or electrical parts, I can't think of a better WB tool for underwater photography.

The Pro82mm Expo/Disc is almost ready to release--just two more weeks or so before I can post it on the website. I am trying to select other larger sizes as well, but am not sure which sizes would have the most demand--any suggestions for which sizes you think would be the most popular? No limits on how size from my end...

If you get underwater shots you'd like to share, I'd love to see them.

Thank you for your interest in our products.

Diane Wallace

Wallace Photo Products

www.expodisc.com