Was out at Ras Mohammed and we moored up for lunch in Marsa Breika (deep bay) for lunch, was bored so hopped in with camera to have a play with under/over shots. Surface was flat but there was a small swell. Subject wise there was the boat and the mooring line and then just the deep below. Ignoring subject selection, I noticed a few problems:
1. Big diference between light levels above and below water - I have seen you can get split ND filters but I guess you have to decide the orientation of the picture before hand. Would you use a strobe to boost the underwater exposure?
2. There is a water mark on the Dome, is there a way to reduce this (obviously a flat still day would help.....)
Ta Duncan
Canon 10-22 @10mm
ISO100, f14,1/60
1. Big diference between light levels above and below water - I have seen you can get split ND filters but I guess you have to decide the orientation of the picture before hand. Would you use a strobe to boost the underwater exposure?
I have been thinking about split ND / split dioptre filters and how to move them when inside the housing. Has anyone tried attaching a small weight to the outer rim of the filter so that when you rotate the housing the weight swivels the filter to landscape/portrait?
I do alot of these. The best ones are in the shallowest water where the exposure difference between above and below is the least. Another condition that helps is early or late light, or a cloudy day where the exposure difference is less. In the example I'm laying in 2 to 3 feet of water. The best tip is practice ALOT
shallow water
... would you use a strobe to boost the underwater exposure...
... there is a water mark on the Dome, is there a way to reduce this...
Flat calm; big dome; wide, wide lens; shallow; strobes if there is a foreground subject...
Sigma 4.5mm, twin strobes, Scotland.
... and I still use Photoshop to edit out some of the droplets on the dome! Detergent and anti-fog have been suggested, but aren't that friendly to the environment (and maybe not that friendly to o-rings).
Nikon 10.5mm, ambient light, Sipadan.
Tim
The bigger dome the better, the wider the lens the better too. Spitting or sucking the dome works pretty well against watermark. Another typical problem is the lack of enough depth of field for close-underwater-subject/far-top-backgrund so using a higher ISO will allow you to use a smaller aperture.
2) I've got one word for you: Pledge!
Split diopters are cool, but they are only applicable in a pool or a sheltered water. The line has to be lined up right at the waterline - which is not easy - I've used one before. you can get up to 72mm from B&H if you want to give it a try.
Cheers
James
Ages ago I used to use a subal split filter that was bottom half +3 diopter / top half ND for half and halfs. that was before big domes came along.