Nikon 16mm FF edge sharpness

The problem is compounded by the time needed to test properly and the availability of equipment. Can you imagine the cost of getting all the cameras and lenses? Backscatter and Reef Photo also publish a few tests on their own website.

I was only half joking about the test center. The benefit would be standardized tests. You can't compare Jeff's tests to Steve's or Aquatica's to Subal. I would pledge a $100 yearly subscription. If you could get 99 more individuals and 10 corporate members at $500 each, that would be $15000 a year. Hardly a full-time salary, but shouldn't be a full-time job either. The corporate members would have to loan gear for testing, and I would think with the centralized California location of Wetpixel World HQ you would have no problem getting people to bring in lenses and cameras to be tested. BTW - I'm one of those who rarely publishes the tests I rarely perform - not because I have any interest in hoarding equipt. info, but because my technique is so embarrassingly sloppy that you guys would rip me apart. With no pool, I usually test in the ocean and count on "averaging out" hundreds of test shots to give me an idea of what's happening. Not only unscientific, but it's also impractical to try to publish hundreds of shots and expect people to wade through and try to make comparisons. It would be so great if there was a pool somewhere with fixed target and tripod positions where every piece of gear was tested exactly the same.

Jeff - thanks for publishing those additional tests. You have been a great help. I'll go ahead and order that Nikon-mount Tokina.

I'll go ahead and order that Nikon-mount Tokina.

I think you will find it works well; but a couple of caveats.

Alex and others have mentioned the peripheral CA and purple fringing issues with the Tokina, though it's nothing that has bothered me so far. It may be interesting to try to see how this is affected by the TC.

I always thought the regular 10-17 focused slightly faster than the 16mm even though it's a slower lens, I cannot vouch for focusing speed with the TC in low light but it seemed fine for me so far.

Be sure to use the Kenko Pro 300 1.4 TC, they do make another one which is reported to be inferior in terms of image quality.

When using it especially in quick action situations, be careful not to rack it out wider than 11mm if you do not want to have to crop any vignetting.

Even though my tests seem to show you get maybe one step wider with equivalent corner sharpness to the 16, this is not my primary reason for liking it. My primary reasons are the versatility of having the zoom capability to 17mm and the close focus ability.

As Alex mentioned in another thread, Pentax (who make the original 10-17) used to make a 17-28 fisheye zoom for full frame, so maybe we can hope Tokina will revive a similar design.

Alex and others have mentioned the peripheral CA and purple fringing issues with the Tokina, though it's nothing that has bothered me so far.

You will see the worst of it if you use it on highly reflective subjects near the surface and near the edges of the frame. If I looked a little harder I could find a much worse example, but this should illustrate my point. The fringing is not nearly so bad with the Nikon 16mm, which is another reason I was hoping to find a good dome solution for it. But it's better to have fringing that can be trimmed off than to have blurriness which is impossible to correct. (I have been using the Tokina on APS-C Canon for several years, and am mostly happy with it.)

which particular teleconverter model and brand could be used with the nikon 16mm fisheye? which port extension should be used?

i am using a seacam fisheye macro port.

please help.

which particular brand and model of teleconverter could you use with the nikon 16mm fisheye? what depth port should we add?

i am using a nikon d800e in a seacam with the fisheye macro port.

which particular brand and model of teleconverter could you use with the nikon 16mm fisheye? what depth port should we add?

i am using a nikon d800e in a seacam with the fisheye macro port.

It is, basically, Kenko or bust because of the rear element of the 16mm lens. The less powerful 1.4x is probably the most widely used, but the optical effect is better with the 10.5mm and a cropped sensor as it relies on getting close and a small dome which allows you to light the subject, which performs poorly with an FX sensor.

This is taken with an older 1.5x Kenko T/C, a Sigma 15mm and a middle-sized dome with a D800: