Problems Blufin with Fathom for Xr520

As the vignetting is only at the bottom, maybe you could put a shim under the front of the camera. Something like a thin rectangle of plastic stuck to the tray.

Just a clarification, but the Fathom lenses used by Light & Motion on the Sony cameras will not work with HF S10. Optically they don't work, and the bayonet mount on the HF S10 is larger to accommodate wider diameter optics.

New lenses for HF S10 are in development.

Thanks Ryan. I was surprised by Johnny's remark about not knowing and having the first lens without knowing whether there'll be issues or not. If the dealer doesn't know, then I'd change dealers or ask here and hope someone in the know does answer. Saves a lot of anguish and frustration IF there are issues after the purchase.

Thanks Ryan. I was surprised by Johnny's remark about not knowing and having the first lens without knowing whether there'll be issues or not. If the dealer doesn't know, then I'd change dealers or ask here and hope someone in the know does answer. Saves a lot of anguish and frustration IF there are issues after the purchase.

Drew. To clarify: I still await the S10 fathom lens [80 degree]. whether or not it vignettes, i will have to wait and see. My issues at the moment are with the housings manual gears and OLED backs. Everyone: Please see other thread on Canon HFS10.

Regards

John

Well Drew, we'll soon find out as I will be getting one of the first here in the UK. Await my report. See also my troubles with the L & M housing and S10 on the S10 specific thread.

John

I read your post as I thought it sounded like you didn't know if it worked or not. That surprised me as I would hope LMI and their dealers would be able to give you a definitive answer with details. It seems details like the lens vignetting with steady shot in Active mode wasn't clear with daveerdoc or the OP. It's little things like that where details on the website etc would easily solve.

A line like: "Possible vignetting with SteadySHot on Active with this lens" would alleviate many problems for both customers and dealers.

Ok so my new question is, are you using the filter or no? Reason I ask, if the filter is ON in this shot, but is not fully flipped, then it can show in the bottom left corner (as it is). Its amazing how sensitive flip filters can be at times.

If the filter was not fully down, the vignetter would have the opposite appearance, curving towards the corner showing the outside ring of the filter. Assuming the ur filter is not the case and he is still getting vignetting, it is possible that in the fully zoomed out position, this type of vignetting is not uncommon. It could be because the port is not fully turned in so the sun protectors (what I call them) are properly top and bottom. Even if this were the case, slightly zooming in should make the vignetting disappear. However, after all is said and done, vignetting should not be an issue one needs to deal with and, once you check to make sure the problem is not user caused, contact Paul at L & M and see about a proper fix.

Steve

John

I read your post as I thought it sounded like you didn't know if it worked or not. That surprised me as I would hope LMI and their dealers would be able to give you a definitive answer with details. It seems details like the lens vignetting with steady shot in Active mode wasn't clear with daveerdoc or the OP. It's little things like that where details on the website etc would easily solve.

A line like: "Possible vignetting with SteadySHot on Active with this lens" would alleviate many problems for both customers and dealers.

Yes, websites need to be absolutely clear on points like this, especially so at this price point.

Regards

John

John

As I mentioned in the other thread, with such a short product life span, manufacturers are forced to rush products out without thorough testing. And in a such competitive market, a negative connotation on their website would normally be avoided from a marketing viewpoint.

Then there are manufacturers who fudge on specs to make it sound better, like 106 degrees becomes 110 and it's really only that in air and not underwater. It's marketing as well.

Sorry if i've missed it, but was this problem occuring with the 80, or the 110 Fathom lens?

I am getting the same vignetting effect with both the standard L&M lens as well as the optional Fathom 90 lens with my Bluefin XR520V.

I agree the stabilizers on the previous cameras (including my vx2000) were not helpful at all, but this is a new circuit developed by Sony and I have found after shooting in a variety of conditions and subjects this new technology to be very effective. (Or shall I say could be minus the vignetting) I have shot Lake Michigan wrecks, Florida Keys (mostly macro), snorkeling with blues/makos in Long Beach, and the sardine run (which involved both snorkeling and scuba in waves and current with dolphins/sharks), so I have put this sytem through a variety of conditions in a short time. The stabilizer is very helpful for macro without using a tripod, and with snorkeling it effectively reduces motion from "surface chop" wave action.

I must say L&M was not very helpful when I discussed this issue via telephone; they simply said to turn off the image stabilizer. I tried to convey the usefulness of this circuit in these varied conditions, but L&M didn't seem to be interested in doing anything else. I was told the vignetting happens because the sensor is "oversized"; what you see on the screen (and record) is actually "cropped" somewhat; when there is camera motion the stabilzer will "pull image" from the edges of the sensor. L&M did not account for this in their bench tests of the housing and lenses. I am told moving the camera inside the housing to a more forward position is also not an option, as the mechanical controls for the white balance and dial would then not line up.

I did call Fathom Imaging, and they were already aware of the issue. They have an idea for a new insert for their lenses; by replacing the portion of the lens that is on the inside of the housing (facing the camera), the optics would then accomodate the true sensor size. If this works, I would simply send my current lens to them, and they would replace this piece of the lens. I do hope this works. Stay tuned..

I must say this has been fairly disappointing; I posted a quite positive review in another thread after my first few dives with this setup. I did notice the vignetting right away, but figured it would be something I could easily correct. Obviously I was mistaken. If L&M and Fathoms can correct this problem, I will be very happy with this system.

Oh, and slightly zooming in did NOT eliminate the vignetting either..

It would make sense that it won't matter what lens you have, it is all to do with the size of the back of the lens and in relation to the lens on the camera. :-(

Lets hope they get this and the OLED screen issue sorted asap!

It is dissapointing that a co. like L & M would not pick this up, but there is huge pressure to get these out fast with such short life spans, and this is the real world! :-)

The good thing about L & M + Fathom, from what i've heard, is that they will sort the problems and fix it for us! I'm sure they're working on it now, and soon we'll be able to send the screens and lenses in and get them sorted.

Looking forward to that happening quickly of course! :-)

In the mean time I guess we can just zoom 5% in on editing software if the vignetting occurs. Not idea but able to be done until lenses are fixed.

As for the colour issues on the OLED screen, we just have to check white balance on the side screen until a fix has been done. At least there's a way to have it set to a single touch for white balance! That makes it heaps easier than going through 3 menus to get it done! So happy about that!

All in all this system is VERY good, just a couple of teething issues to get fixed!

Having seen some of the video from Dave and others, I don't think 5% would be enough on some scenes.

Anyhow, all this could be avoided if this was stated on the website so people know BEFORE buying the lens. Even a simple recommendation to shoot with Steady Shot in Standard or off would be suffice.

It's great that we have members like yourselves who write about their experiences so other potential buyers can make informed decisions. However, other housing manufacturers using the same Fathom designed lenses will have the same issues. Seems a wide angle solution for the newer cameras are going to be an issue.

Having seen some of the video from Dave and others, I don't think 5% would be enough on some scenes.

Anyhow, all this could be avoided if this was stated on the website so people know BEFORE buying the lens. Even a simple recommendation to shoot with Steady Shot in Standard or off would be suffice.

It's great that we have members like yourselves who write about their experiences so other potential buyers can make informed decisions. However, other housing manufacturers using the same Fathom designed lenses will have the same issues. Seems a wide angle solution for the newer cameras are going to be an issue.

Wow I was surprised that my Orginal Post encrease a lot. I´m very interested on any News about this Point. I also will contact Fathom Imaging to hear whats happen right now. Post it later.. Best regards

Vignetting gone!!!

Warning: perform at your own risk. This was NOT offered to me by L&M, Fathom Imaging, or Sony. I tried this on my own and it worked. Last I heard from L&M and Fathom is that they are both "working on a solution", so I will certainly be interested to see what they come up with..

The camera mounting tray for the L&M Bluefin/XR520 is actually two separate pieces screwed together; a silver aluminum "base" and a black "bracket" where the camera attaches to. I solved my vignetting problem by placing a "shim" between the black mounting bracket and the base.

Using a small allen wrech, I loosened the screws that attach the black mounting bracket to the tray and removed it. I cut a very small rectangular section from an expired credit card and "shimed" the front end of the black mounting bracket, raising it ever so slightly (I was having vignettting on the bottom corners, so I wanted to raise the front of the camera). I re-attached the black bracket to the tray, mounted the camera, and presto! Vignetting gone..I guess they don't call it the "fantastic plastic" for nothing!

Looks like there is zero tolerance on the optics for this system..

Wow I was surprised that my Orginal Post encrease a lot. I´m very interested on any News about this Point. I also will contact Fathom Imaging to hear whats happen right now. Post it later.. Best regards

As for the colour issues on the OLED screen, we just have to check white balance on the side screen until a fix has been done. At least there's a way to have it set to a single touch for white balance! That makes it heaps easier than going through 3 menus to get it done! So happy about that!

Maybe I didn't understand it correctly: the OLED issues are for the Canon only, right? And also the WB with single touch? Or will there be a single touch solution for the Sony, too?

Regards, Sascha

Hi Sascha,

The OLED issues seem to be with both Canon HFS10 & XR520. Early version of OLED had a colour shift, it can be ficed, we're waiting to find out how from L & M.

WB single touch is through menu on HFS10, the XR520 you have to change the video output to LCD only not LCD / video out and that lets you keep the menu on the white balance (or any menu function for that matter) so you can just touch once. However, you loose the ability to see any camera info on the housing monitor, just the image the camera is seeing.

I think it increases the usability of the housing, and with such big battery time and hard drive space for the XR520, it's not an issue to not see that stuff while filming. Would rather see the image without numbers all over it anyway!

Hi Sascha,

 

The OLED issues seem to be with both Canon HFS10 & XR520. Early version of OLED had a colour shift, it can be ficed, we're waiting to find out how from L & M.

 

WB single touch is through menu on HFS10, the XR520 you have to change the video output to LCD only not LCD / video out and that lets you keep the menu on the white balance (or any menu function for that matter) so you can just touch once. However, you loose the ability to see any camera info on the housing monitor, just the image the camera is seeing.

 

I think it increases the usability of the housing, and with such big battery time and hard drive space for the XR520, it's not an issue to not see that stuff while filming. Would rather see the image without numbers all over it anyway!

If I do so, the OLED does not give me a picture anymore....so it seems, that I can either have picture and menu on OLED or nothing.

If I do so, the OLED does not give me a picture anymore....so it seems, that I can either have picture and menu on OLED or nothing.

Vignetting "Not so gone" after all..

Just finished shooting some blues and makos out east and noticed some more vignetting in the right lower corner..

I could not get it to vignette on the surface after placing my "shim", and only noticed it during playback in post.. I was snorkeling/freediving in 1~2 foot waves..

Very frustrating..still haven't heard anything from L&M or Fathoms..

Vignetting "Not so gone" after all..

 

Just finished shooting some blues and makos out east and noticed some more vignetting in the right lower corner..

 

I could not get it to vignette on the surface after placing my "shim", and only noticed it during playback in post.. I was snorkeling/freediving in 1~2 foot waves..

 

Very frustrating..still haven't heard anything from L&M or Fathoms..

I tried it, too and I am very satisfied. I installed the 'shim' as explained and after three dives I see no vignetting on the monitor any more. In post editing I found just one scene, where there was a little vignetting, but only a little bit just in the lower right corner and so minor, that you don't see it on a TV (non visible area). I continue to check.

Sascha