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8 hours ago, RomiK said:

@Interceptor121 My jab at your Malpello video hit the nerve didn’t it ? 😂😂😂 Listen it’s fine to have encyclopedic knowledge but for the sake of readers you really shouldn’t be giving advices where you don’t have practical experience. There is so much blabber in what you write here it’s difficult to put the facts straight. I really recommend you to borrow housing, do few dives and then give advices. The lens analysis you have are fine but the monitor and HDR standards blabber are just nonsense 🤙

 

HDR PQ works in absolutes not in relatives so it is impossible to nail exposure which may be the reason why all your videos are clipped and the sand is blue

And I do not need to add anymore to the fact that neither the Shinobi nor the Ninja are HDR monitors

The latest iphone has a contrast ratio of 2,000,000:1 that's almost 21 stops of DR

The Atomos products have a constrast ratio of 1000:01 that is 10 stops the same of a production SDR monitor and a specification many displays can achieve

A paned with 2200 nits and contrast ratio of 1000:1 has the same dynamic range of the shinobi and if it supports log input it works absolutely fine

Take into account that different to Sony many brands can apply a LUT straight to the HDMI output so the requirement for the monitor is less important. It is definitely the case for Panasonic and I think also canon

 

You keep spreading misinformation and that is a problem as Davide says there is no need to get fancy housings as long as your camera / monitor are compatible you are good to go in case you want to have one there is no need to spend money on a housed solution

On thing that is particularly bad on a housed solution is that there is a gap between the monitor screen and the plastic screen of the housing and this creates reflections which in turn display contrast and dynamic range

Some of the built in monitors have a bonded glass solution that will deliver superior result even if the LCD panel has less brightness

 

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5 hours ago, Davide DB said:

 

Thanks for the link. Very useful.

This statement is indeed something most people will disagree

The Ninja V doesn’t handle LUT’s in the same way.  When applied a LUT still shows how the image will be effected but it also effects the exposure tools including the waveforms, scopes and the false colour display. This means that by using a lut you can no longer trust the exposure tools on the Ninja V

 

That is indeed something that the Ninja does well you apply a LUT and you can decide if you monitor on the LUT or not while with the Shinobi the LUT has only effect on the look

This is a mess because if you use tools like false color and a log profile it will never go past yellow.

This is not an issue with Panasonic cameras but is a real problem with Sony cameras because you cannot monitor correctly in rec709 space

I had the Shinobi since the GH5 and with that camera this monitor was amazing. Now with the A1 this is a total waste of time and energy. I still have it but should sell it

The ninja instead works better for monitoring however display an incorrect contrast due to the fact it is expecting legal video input

Both Atomos products are severely crippled and this is why I never bought a housing for any, SmallHD are great but super expensive

Edited by Interceptor121
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  • 4 weeks later...

My wife uses the Dive and See DNC-5B

https://diveandsee.com/dnc-5b-5-inch-4k-uwater-hdmi-sdi-video-monitor-live-video-lut-option/

 

Listed as 600 nits, -300g underwater.

 

She is quite happy with it. We dive primarily in the Philippines and shoot macro. She has only complained of it not being bright enough when filming in direct sunlight in shallow conditions (3-5m).

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