Strobe can’t be used with it’s full potential

[Michi]

I bought a couple of second strobes (sea and sea ys-d2) and found out that they only work with an Olympus OMD EM 1 Mark III up to 11/+0.7. Above that it triggers but does not synchronise... even at different shutter speeds (I tried 1/200 and 1/80) because I had flash duration time in mind. Then I tried a Sony Alpha 1: there it works one step higher up to 16/+1 but still the two highest modes missing. I also tried the electronic and mechanical shutters and tested with electronic cables (Ikelite to Nikonos/Inon and Ikelite ttl converter) and fibre optic cables. I also tried various modes on the flashes, like before flash and TTL etc.. Does anyone have any ideas?

[Klaus]

There are three flash modes (perhaps even more on the em-1) that you can set in the camera - manual, ttl and the proprietary rc-mode. Is the problem always there, or does it occur only with one of the settings? I vaguely remember reading that in rc-mode the number of pre-flashes is more than one and maybe even variable(not sure about the last).

I always use manual mode @ 1/64 intensity on my epl-5 and have not had any issues with Sea&sea strobes (older than ys-2). So that will be very different on your setup - but maybe it can help to find the source of the problem?

[JustinO]

We'd really need to know a bit more about what settings you' re using to help. For example, are you shooting Manual on both the strobe and the camera, or something else?  I have the EM 1 - Mk II and use the YS-D3 and have no issues at all powers in M on both.  I've not used the D2s, but would guess there isn't too much difference.  In manual on the camera with mechanical shutter and M on the strobe, it should sync up to 1/250 at all strobe powers, and if you use a trigger you can get even higher (1/400) without any black bars appearing.  

[Chris Ross]

A likely cause at high power is a pre-flash using enough capacitor capacity to prevent the strobe discharging.   The devil is in the detail of the settings you are using.

[Michi]

Hello and many thanks for the answers. At least the problem is half solved. I photograph always in manual mode. I have tried everything on the flashes from preflesh to TTL to "normal flash" without preflash with different shutter speeds plus with electric / fibre optic cables. Now and after your recommendations I tried several optical cables and it turned out that the signal in all except of one was too weak/inconsistent… but the problem still exists with electrical cables but In the Sony Menue I can not change any flash settings that are relevant. Or do I oversee something? With Olympus i am not able to trigger with electrical cables plus I asked for help and in the Olympus menue I solved the problem and weak cables don’t matter here! 

[Chris Ross]

Both ends of the system are important.  If you are using a camera with a pre-flash, best solution is to use manual low power flash on the camera.  If you can't turn the pre-flash off you need a setting on your flash that ignores the pre-flash.  Try triggering the flashes from Olympus camera with the YS-D2 on manual and the Olympus camera set to manual flash at 1/64 power using the little accesory flash.  The key point to remember is that the camera and flash are not aware of each other so both need to be set correctly.

[Architeuthis]

Hi Michi,

I used YS-D2 and Z330, exclusively in manual mode, on EM1II and EM5II and never had a problem with flash power (Triggered via Oly miniflash or Nauticam flash trigger using multifibre optical cables)...

Now I use Z330 and HF-1, manually, with A7R5 with optical cables (Nauticam or Turtle-manual flash triggers) and it works without problems. There may be differences in menue between A7R5 and A1, but here are the flash settings that I use in the "Exposure Color" Menue Tab. Maybe it helps:

 

 

Wolfgang

Edited October 15, 2024 by Architeuthis

[Michi]

On 10/15/2024 at 9:58 AM, Architeuthis said:

Hi Michi,

I used YS-D2 and Z330, exclusively in manual mode, on EM1II and EM5II and never had a problem with flash power (Triggered via Oly miniflash or Nauticam flash trigger using multifibre optical cables)...

Now I use Z330 and HF-1, manually, with A7R5 with optical cables (Nauticam or Turtle-manual flash triggers) and it works without problems. There may be differences in menue between A7R5 and A1, but here are the flash settings that I use in the "Exposure Color" Menue Tab. Maybe it helps:

 

 

Wolfgang

Hi Wolfgang, thank you a lot! Can you share your Settings for the Olympus System as well please? Thanks in advance! Michi

[Architeuthis]

7 hours ago, Michi said:

Hi Wolfgang, thank you a lot! Can you share your Settings for the Olympus System as well please? Thanks in advance! Michi

Hi Michi,

 

Did the settings solve the problem with the A1?

 

Unfortunately I do not have a file with the EM1II settings here at hand (we are currently for diving in Egypt, in case such a file still exists it may be still at home on our NAS server)...

Here is s link for general settings for EM1II for UW use, maybe you can find something useful there: https://www.uwphotographyguide.com/olympus-omd-em1-markii-best-underwater-settings#Initial Settings

 

In case you want know a specific EM1II setting, I can have a look at my wifes camera in the later afternoon, when we are done with diving. She is currently using the EM1II with Nauticam trigger with Z330s. The cameras are now ready in the housings and we go diving soon...

 

Wolfgang

[Barmaglot]

On 10/12/2024 at 9:33 AM, Michi said:

Then I tried a Sony Alpha 1: there it works one step higher up to 16/+1 but still the two highest modes missing.

I can't speak for Olympus, but if the Sony A1 menus are anything like my A6700, the setting you're looking for is WL (or wireless) flash on/off. You didn't mention what trigger you're using, but at least with my UWT board, WL flash ON = single flash, WL flash OFF = TTL with pre-flash. If you set flash mode to rear curtain sync and shutter speed to something reasonably slow, you should be able to observe the trigger emitting two flashes in succession upon shutter release. The corresponding strobe mode positions are single lightning bolt (M) for WL flash ON, and DS-TTL for WL flash OFF. You can also use the twin lightning bolt (M) mode with WL flash OFF, but this will just produce unnecessary shutter lag - this mode is meant to be used with cameras where you can't cancel the pre-flash, like the RX100 series and A6000-A6500 pop-up flash.

[Chris Ross]

If you would like to test the YS-D2 strobes electrically, it sounds like you have access to ikelite cables, if this is the case you can simulate manual triggering by the cables without the camera by following this FAQ from Ikelite:

 

Wiring Diagrams + Test Firing Strobes

 

Find your cable and bridge the terminals they recommend to fire the flash - you can use a paper clip to do this.   Do not use the TTL converter - just attach the cable to your strobe and set it manual - no pre-flash mode.   If you try this test and the strobe won't fire at full power it seems there is a problem with your strobes.

 

Regarding Olympus I use an EM-1 Mkii and the mini-flash unit that came with it to trigger my INON Z240 through fibre optics.  On the camera it is manual exposure, manual flash set at 1/64 power.  Double check red eye reduction is off and that's it.  On the flash you want the non pre-flash single lightning bolt option.

 

For the Sony flash triggering - I assume you are using a trigger to fire your strobes, You can set the WL mode as suggested above.   You could also check if the previous owner changed the custom mode of these strobes.  Go to the back of the manual to find out how to change this to the right setting for your camera.  It shouldn't matter for manual triggering but it can't hurt either to set it to the recommended setting.