Hi all,

I've got an old D-2000 that isn't supported by either of the strobe triggers I have.....but I was wondering about the S-TTL function from Inon.

I think it just copies the "camera" - so should any trigger theoretically be able to do TTL with that strobe, if it just repeats the trigger LED "pattern" for the pre flash then TTL flash duration?

I'm not sure how to test it fully with the triggers (I have UWT and Turtle), with all the different options they have - but I used a TTL land strobe (godox 860ii) as a trigger for the inon and that seemed to expose correctly, but when I've tried the UWT on the Z-240, Z-330 and S-220/D-200 modes it doesn't seem to be quite right.

Is there any kind of idiots guide to testing TTL on land with an underwater strobe to see if I could use that old strobe on my next dive? 😁

I just returned from a trip and it made me realise I have no idea how to use the strobes in manual as I've only used the pop up flash and S-TTL mode before....which isn't an option now I don't have a pop up flash on my new camy, and I've now got the MF-2 that don't do TTL for Sony, regardless of trigger type.

Came back with lots of terrible shots, and I'm assuming it's mostly the strobe side of things that let me down, although I'm not that good with full manual either if I'm being honest so it's also very possibly a combination of both.

I use the S2000 position for TTL with either Inon D2000 or Inon S220. Works fine. I am shooting with a Sony A6400. There are occasional and annoying fail to sync with every type of strobe I have been able to get my hands on with my UWT trigger.

You should be able to run full manual with the #0 position set on the UWT board and Inon in M and set for no pre-flash. Or TTL with the Inon set for sTTL and the UWT set on #2 (?) position. You will need to configure a WL command selection and play with that setting on a programable button.

You have the instruction sheet for your UWT trigger? It is detailed in the instructions how to set up. Yes Inon strobes will work with the UWT trigger in manual or TTL modes on the UWT board.

The 0 manual position on the UWT board does not fire a pre-flash so your Inon will be set for manual and no pre-flash.

The #2 TTL position does fire a pre-flash and sTTL on the strobe selection always assumes a pre-flash from the camera as that is how sTTL works.

In Cozumel now, sorry if my asnwer is incomplete, sort of about to go diving.

Edited June 29Jun 29 by Nemrod

You didn't say which camera you were using, generally it has to be set up correctly along with the trigger and the strobe. The camera knows nothing about the strobe and the strobe nothing about the camera so all settings need to be sorted out.

If you have an MF-2 and don't have an Olympus camera and you want to use the MF-2, manual is the only game in town unfortunately. I think if you want to make use of the MF-2 you probably need to bite the bullet and work out how to use manual and you might as well do that now with the D-2000 as well.

An outline of manual mode - first on the camera set it to manual SS/Aperture, pick your aperture maybe f11 on a Sony APC-C maybe 13-16 on FF, choose your ISO. Shutter speed should start at your flash sync speed assuming macro and no ambient contribution

Set your trigger to manual - I assume this will only emit a single flash from your trigger - No pre-flash

Set the strobe to manual and pick a high to mid range setting. On the D-2000 you want the magnet in.

Take a photo with the rig setup in a mirror pointing the strobe straight ahead - you should see the flash in the image. This confirms sync.

Take a test shot of a small 3D object about the size of your usual subject - setup on a table so you can repeat easily and adjust exposure up or down till you get the subject properly exposed. This is you starting exposure for macro. For things around this distance that exposure stays constant . If you double the distance from the strobe either open up one stop or increase flash power one stop.

For wide angle with the D2000 try it out at maximum on the dial without going around to full power on the mode dial. If you are using the MF-2 on manual it reads the first exposure to work out if it needs a take into account a pre-flash or not.

Until you get used to things keep your aperture constant and just adjust flash strength - it's one less thing to think about - once you feel confident start moving the aperture around if desired.

12 hours ago, Nemrod said:

I use the S2000 position for TTL with either Inon D2000 or Inon S220. Works fine. I am shooting with a Sony A6400. There are occasional and annoying fail to sync with every type of strobe I have been able to get my hands on with my UWT trigger.

You should be able to run full manual with the #0 position set on the UWT board and Inon in M and set for no pre-flash. Or TTL with the Inon set for sTTL and the UWT set on #2 (?) position. You will need to configure a WL command selection and play with that setting on a programable button.

You have the instruction sheet for your UWT trigger? It is detailed in the instructions how to set up. Yes Inon strobes will work with the UWT trigger in manual or TTL modes on the UWT board.

The 0 manual position on the UWT board does not fire a pre-flash so your Inon will be set for manual and no pre-flash.

The #2 TTL position does fire a pre-flash and sTTL on the strobe selection always assumes a pre-flash from the camera as that is how sTTL works.

In Cozumel now, sorry if my asnwer is incomplete, sort of about to go diving.

Thanks nemrod!

The manual for the trigger does list a few inon strobes, but not the D-2000 - I just thought with the S-TTL sounding almost universal, it might work on one of the others. Maybe the 220 setting is worth a shot!

Enjoy the diving!

3 hours ago, Chris Ross said:

You didn't say which camera you were using, generally it has to be set up correctly along with the trigger and the strobe. The camera knows nothing about the strobe and the strobe nothing about the camera so all settings need to be sorted out.

If you have an MF-2 and don't have an Olympus camera and you want to use the MF-2, manual is the only game in town unfortunately. I think if you want to make use of the MF-2 you probably need to bite the bullet and work out how to use manual and you might as well do that now with the D-2000 as well.

An outline of manual mode - first on the camera set it to manual SS/Aperture, pick your aperture maybe f11 on a Sony APC-C maybe 13-16 on FF, choose your ISO. Shutter speed should start at your flash sync speed assuming macro and no ambient contribution

Set your trigger to manual - I assume this will only emit a single flash from your trigger - No pre-flash

Set the strobe to manual and pick a high to mid range setting. On the D-2000 you want the magnet in.

Take a photo with the rig setup in a mirror pointing the strobe straight ahead - you should see the flash in the image. This confirms sync.

Take a test shot of a small 3D object about the size of your usual subject - setup on a table so you can repeat easily and adjust exposure up or down till you get the subject properly exposed. This is you starting exposure for macro. For things around this distance that exposure stays constant . If you double the distance from the strobe either open up one stop or increase flash power one stop.

For wide angle with the D2000 try it out at maximum on the dial without going around to full power on the mode dial. If you are using the MF-2 on manual it reads the first exposure to work out if it needs a take into account a pre-flash or not.

Until you get used to things keep your aperture constant and just adjust flash strength - it's one less thing to think about - once you feel confident start moving the aperture around if desired.

Sorry, I forgot to mention that! It's the Sony A7RV.

Thanks for the test ideas - I'll give some of those a try and see if I can figure out manual strobe, it seems like most people end up using that anyway 🙂

I don't have the magnet for the strobe (second hand, didn't come with it) so I'll try and figure out TTL for that strobe as an option, but ultimately the MF-2's are probably what I want to be using......the D-2000 in TTL was my "trying to be lazy" alternative! I realise it's also pretty half as old as me so I'm not surprised things aren't designed to work with it nowadays 😁

For the MF-2, in case it's useful for anyone - the Retra Pro Max setting looks to work for the HSS feature

The D2000 does not work any differently than a S220, D200 or other Inon strobe. It also has an external auto mode they do not have. You can purchase a replacement magnet. Newer Inon strobes use a switch to select preflash, no preflash. Preflash is needed for sTTL. The D2000 uses a magnet to activate (or not) the preflash selector switch. The sTTL mode automatically reverts to preflash expected. Manual strobe mode you will need to use the magnet to select preflash/no preflash.

Sony cameras are weird, not sure about the A7 but there is no way to cancel preflash on my A6400 except via the UWT board and the #0 board switch selection.

The issue is the D2000 won't sync without the magnet, you can buy replacements.

Might be easier to just start using the MF-2. it will force you to use manual, though it's really only a macro flash. If you do nay wide angle , you will need a different strobe/strobes.

50 minutes ago, Chris Ross said:

The issue is the D2000 won't sync without the magnet, you can buy replacements.

Might be easier to just start using the MF-2. it will force you to use manual, though it's really only a macro flash. If you do nay wide angle , you will need a different strobe/strobes.

I think the MF-2 is the way - I don't have the port or WWL for wide angle anyway (I've always preferred macro!)

13 hours ago, Yorkie88 said:

I think the MF-2 is the way - I don't have the port or WWL for wide angle anyway (I've always preferred macro!)

Agree, when I first started I had the idea to use TTL as it works so well on land, but soon found manual was nowhere near as hard as it seemed, the key is recognize that the flash exposure remains constant if the distance doesn't change to your subject. Realistically for most macro subjects from fist sized down to small nudis, the distance doesn't change that much and as you get closer the increased magnification reduces the exposure somewhat (varies with the lens you use of course) which kind of compensates. The end result is I rarely change flash exposure very much on a dive - maybe only when I'm shooting something like the size of a weedy sea dragon and opening up the aperture to do that is viable as you don't need as much DOF.