Hi All,,

Could someone with an A7RV Nauticam housing help me out with a couple of dimensions using verniers?

Centre to centre and internal diameter. If its at all possible, let me know if the internal bore is stepped in any way.

Thank you!

Sorry, and stretch target - the depth of the holes.

If it helps get some input here, I think most of the FF Sony Nauticam housings have the same optical trigger port dimensions?

And for context, the reason i'm asking... I'm getting a housing while i'm overseas. I already have the trigger and LED leads, but I need to modify/3D print my existing LED mounts so I can bring it with me to install in the housing while i'm overseas. So I don't have the housing yet myself to measure.

Edited September 9Sep 9 by foetusmachine

I don't have calipers and my UWT is fitted so it's a bit awkward and possibly not 100% accurate, but centre to centre looks to be 26mm (measured left edge to left edge from the top which should be the same), bore looks to be around 6mm - guess a 5mm LED would work best for it.

I can't really measure the depth, but the turtle trigger bit that goes in the hole (https://www.trt-electronics.com/shop/led-adapter-for-nauticam-sony-housings/6/) is 10mm long to the tip of the LED.

I had to get these for the wet side too as I had the push fit connectors on my fibre optic cables:

https://www.nauticam.com/products/optical-fibre-connector-for-nauticam-to-use-with-262162-pieces

Thank you @Yorkie88, this is helpful.

Made up a couple of options to try while i'm away and picking up the new housing. Not sure how well either of them will fit. One relies on silicone tape and the other is a spring fit. Worst case, nothing a bit of electrical tape can't fix.

Happy for other suggestions from others to create a good solid fit. It's all 3d printed and I have plenty of LEDs.

Thanks again @Yorkie88 for the few dimensions and suggestions.

They look great - they should both hold themselves in, I like the look of the springy one for a bit of wiggle room on the distance between the holes, and also a way to hold itself in. I don't think the TRT one has any glue or anything so I reckon either of these would work well!

You could always take some blue tac (or that sugru stuff) and stuff the leds in without a holder too as an emergency option!

Update on this. I ended up using the model that had large flanges and used double-sided tape. The model with the small flanges would have also worked, but the larger flanges completely covered the bulkhead - providing greater fixity and definitely blocking any reflected light from the LED's.

The 3D printed spring version was just too loose. Now that I have the housing I might be able to tweak the design of that to also be a snug fit into the bulkhead, but for now, i'll just see how I go with the flanged version.