I leave tomorrow morning on my first real trip with an AV7RV, but can't get the strobes to fire. My camera has manual shutter, silent off, wireless flash on, flash mode fill, tried various shutter speeds between 1/50 and 1/150. I get a small red light from my 11071-HSS, but my strobes don't fire. I've tried both TTL and Manual on the strobes. I've used both strobes with the same cords on another camera.

Hi - don't have this set up but quickly looked at the manual for 11071-HSS - just wondering if the rotary dial is set to 6 for inon Z0330. Is it possible the battery needs replacing if there i only a small red light? In a case you don't have it - manual attached. Good luck solving and have great trip!!

#11071-HSS-SONY-A7-November2025.pdf

I think the 11075 is the one recommended for the A7RV - not sure of the actual difference though, if they're both Sony then maybe they are interchangeable.

@Pavel Kolpakov may have some insight on the differences 🙂

Have you tried the "0" setting on the trigger so it's not doing anything too fancy and is just in manual mode? And are you using multicore fibre optics?

Also maybe check the flash compensation setting in the camera, if you are in manual mode for the trigger, or if you have WL on in the camera settings, then setting that compensation to a + number might make the led brighter.

Edited Tuesday at 11:18 PM3 days by Yorkie88

First thing to try is a new battery in your trigger. Double check the dial on the trigger is set to the right number. Definitely try it with manual position.

Next see if you can trigger your strobes through the cables. Point a TV remote sensor into the cable and press any of the buttons. point the IR emitter into the fibre end. You might need to move it around. If this doesn't work point it into the sensor on the strobe. The IR remote should readily trigger most strobes.

Thanks everyone! I wish I found this sooner so I had time to troubleshoot.

The remote control trick works on the strobe itself - not every time, I think I needed to position the remote and try a button a dozen times. I couldn't get it to work with the cable, but am guessing this is an alignment issue and not a cable issue.

I did find my 11071-HSS knob set to 7 and not 6. Scuba divers over age 30 need larger numbers. Setting it to 6 did not help.

I noticed an Amber light on the Nauticam body near the power button before I take a picture. This is labeled 'AF illuminator/Visible light sensor' in the Nauticam manual.

I did buy new batteries but won't have time to change them until my flight arrives.

Hi Brad,

As i understand it, this is a second-hand TTL Converter for A7 camera, purchased together with a housing recently. You don't know the year of issue, so the circuit version is not clear enough. According to the photo, it looks like product of 2014 year. So, initial owner probably started to use it 12 years ago. But nobody knows if it works or broken now.

I can help you with some information and User Manual.

That circuit had a little bit different schematics than modern versions, and It did not have a separate profile for Z330 yet. Switch position "6" was reserved (empty) there.

But you can use any existing similar profile, for example Z240 (switch position - 1). It is not the same, but will work. You also can try another profiles, according to the User Manual that i sent you by email.

Edited Thursday at 04:49 AM2 days by Pavel Kolpakov

14 hours ago, bvbellomo said:

Thanks everyone! I wish I found this sooner so I had time to troubleshoot.

The remote control trick works on the strobe itself - not every time, I think I needed to position the remote and try a button a dozen times. I couldn't get it to work with the cable, but am guessing this is an alignment issue and not a cable issue.

I did find my 11071-HSS knob set to 7 and not 6. Scuba divers over age 30 need larger numbers. Setting it to 6 did not help.

I noticed an Amber light on the Nauticam body near the power button before I take a picture. This is labeled 'AF illuminator/Visible light sensor' in the Nauticam manual.

I did buy new batteries but won't have time to change them until my flight arrives.

I waved it around the end of my cable while pressing the TV on button and it quickly fired both on the cable and the sensor itself (on retra strobes) A cable issue is quite possible and I would suggest assuming that is the problem till proven otherwise. The older TV remotes with the LED poking out are easiest to align of course , but a I used a SOny TV remote and it quickly fired by passing the window section over the acble end.

In any case Pavel has provided some advice and I would certainly try that first.

How are you supposed to turn the rotary dial? At home, I used a jewelers screwdriver, but didn't bring it on the trip.

1 hour ago, bvbellomo said:

How are you supposed to turn the rotary dial? At home, I used a jewelers screwdriver, but didn't bring it on the trip.

Don't know where you are, perhaps the dive shop could loan a screwdriver or are there any hardware stores around? The little dials don't require much force to turn so perhaps a small nail file might work? Probably some other household or kitchen items might be put to use.

9 hours ago, bvbellomo said:

How are you supposed to turn the rotary dial? At home, I used a jewelers screwdriver, but didn't bring it on the trip.

Finger nail? I can turn my UWT switch with a finger nail, a Swiss Army knife, a plastic spoon, a dinner knife, toothpick.

If the trigger LEDs are confirmed to be firing and the strobes are not firing then the issue is either the optical cables or the strobes. Or they are not aligned with the optical windows.

If the LEDs are not firing then try new batteries and if that does not work you may be --------.

If the LEDs are firing and the strobes are firing but not syncing then please set the TTL switch to 0 and set your strobes to manual and configure them for no preflash (Hardwired Manual Mode).

In the future I find it useful to always set my gear up at home on the kitchen table even to the dismay and consternation of my wife person and make sure everything is working. I also usually do a pool dive to confirm integrity and operation. And I do these things in plenty of time to work out bugs, order whatever might be broken and get some help. And I carry spares, spare cables, batteries, tools etc. like a screw driver or my Swiss Army to turn that TTL trigger switch. This could be an expensive learning opportunity.

Off subject, triggers and all of that complexity are cool and offer many advantages but there is also much to be said for rigs that can trigger from a built in camera strobe. Simplicity, always works, bad cables will usually still trigger because the camera flash is so much brighter than an LED, no batteries to go dead, no contacts to corrode, no electrical cables to break, fray or disconnect. It just works, plain and simple.

Edited yesterday at 09:23 PM1 day by Nemrod

15 hours ago, bvbellomo said:

How are you supposed to turn the rotary dial? At home, I used a jewelers screwdriver, but didn't bring it on the trip.

UWTechnics supplies a small 2x0.5mm flat-head screwdriver with every product.

Here is the photo:

This is a very popular flat tip size. It can be purchased at most hardware and auto parts stores.

Please note that the rotary switch shaft is made of soft plastic (easily damaged with the wrong tool). It's best to use a standard small 2x0.5mm or similar size screwdriver.

Edited 20 hours ago20 hr by Pavel Kolpakov

I did get it to turn with the appropriate screwdriver but scratched it badly with trial and error. I haven't tried it yet in the new position.

The Leds are firing, but maybe not enough to fire the strobes.

I thought I had this working 6 months ago. I don't really remember. I'm so crazy busy I almost canceled my trip. I didn't even have time to pack everything, just threw stuff in a suitcase and went.

With the dial set to 0, I am able to see a bright red light by looking into the end of the cable when I take a picture. With 1, the light is not as bright.

The hotel remote reliably fires the strobe directly, but not through the optical cable.

I have 2 strobes and cables that worked together in the past. I know this isn't just the wrong type of cable, and it is unlikely the cable is damaged.

21 minutes ago, bvbellomo said:

I have 2 strobes and cables that worked together in the past. I know this isn't just the wrong type of cable, and it is unlikely the cable is damaged.

To use LED triggers in TTL/HSS modes, you should use new type 613 fiber optic cables. Other cable models may have a significantly lower transmission index. The type 613 cable is also mentioned in the trigger User Manual.

You have to configure the trigger and camera according to the User Manual, step by step.

Edited 17 hours ago17 hr by Pavel Kolpakov

1 hour ago, bvbellomo said:

With the dial set to 0, I am able to see a bright red light by looking into the end of the cable when I take a picture. With 1, the light is not as bright.

The hotel remote reliably fires the strobe directly, but not through the optical cable.

I have 2 strobes and cables that worked together in the past. I know this isn't just the wrong type of cable, and it is unlikely the cable is damaged.

Unfortunately the evidence is that the cables are not putting enough light through, the INON strobes are usually easily triggered. The strobes should trigger through the cable with an IR remote. try the test with the strobe in manual - first thing to try is to get it working in manual - a strobe in manual is better than no strobe.

It's not 100% clear from what you have said, you mention more light coming out of the cable at position 0 compared to position 1, however some questions to clarify:

Have you tried to trigger strobes in both positions 1 and zero with the trigger?

Have you tested both cables?

Are you testing with the cables plugged into the housing? If so have you confirmed the LEDs are well seated in the fibre ports, i.e. pushed all the way in? The instructions mention this and I recall a few times this was the problem people had with triggering.

Is there someone else there who has a cable being used with a LED trigger that you could borrow briefly for testing purposes.

What were you triggering the strobes with before this trip? A different trigger? an onboard flash?

It's important to check all of these things and report back if we are to have a chance to successfully troubleshoot.

I have many dive trips using these cables with these strobes, just not with this camera body.

What do you mean by 'manual '? The inon has a manual mode which is similar to full output but you can reduce the brightness manually.

I have tried both 0 and 1.

I have tested using both cables.

Cable issue confirmed! I borrowed a working cable, and it worked. How I had 2 cables fail at the same time, I don't know. A friend on the same trip believes 1 cable is visibly broken and fixable, so we will try fixing it, but the other looks brand new.

1 hour ago, bvbellomo said:

Cable issue confirmed! I borrowed a working cable, and it worked. How I had 2 cables fail at the same time, I don't know. A friend on the same trip believes 1 cable is visibly broken and fixable, so we will try fixing it, but the other looks brand new.

If you can fix it. but only have one cable, try running the other strobe with a bare port it will likely trigger off the other strobe. If you need to cut the cable to repair it - DO NOT use scissors, a sharp box cutter or razor blade is what is needed, it needs to be cut at right angle to cable.

Cut the ends off both cables to get clean, fresh ends using, as stated, a sharp single edge razor blade or box cutter blade. I have, in a pinch, been able to cut the cables with my very sharp Swiss Army Knife. Lay the cable on a smooth, hard surface and press the blade through the cable at 90 degrees. The blade needs to pass through the cable with one slice, do not saw at the cables.

There is not a Z330 position on your older board. For TTL you would choose the position that is for an Inon strobe (Z240/D2000 etc). Or set for hardwired manual.

Since (you say) more light is emitted by the LEDs at position 0, which is hard wired manual, I would run the trigger board there. And set the strobes to manual and configure the Inon "Advanced Cancel Circuit Switch" for no preflash. And thus shoot in full manual, camera and strobes.

The Z330 strobes do not have HSS, you cannot use an HSS trigger position or any shutter speed above your camera native maximum sync speed.

You might check that the cables are fully inserted in their end caps.

If one cable is not repairable you can use the one good cable to a strobe and then run the other strobe as slave from it by just having an open sensor port. of course, the flash will fire on other person's strobes if it sees them.

Always carry spare 613 cables:

DiverVision Underwater Photo Equipment

Howshot Fiber Optic XL Cable 613L for INON Strobe (4 types)

Howshot Multi-Core optic fiber cable 613L for INON's strobe. The best quality Fiber Optic XL Cable 613L is composed of 613 fibers (cores). Even when the cable is bent, attenuation of light is minimal.

Edited 7 hours ago7 hr by Nemrod