airisfortires

Dear Chris, thanks a lot for your very helpful response! Budget: since I don't have experience with strobes, for now I have no idea how much money is needed for a good solution here. As you mentioned the span is quite large and as a newbie the differences are hard to see and even harder decide, if needed or not. So I am trying to get an idea, on how much money is needed and what I get for the money. Actually your point regarding size for macro is something I didn't have on my list. Thanks a lot for that! Traveling: I travel, but mainly in Europe and by car. So size and weight, on this aspect, are secondary. Nonetheless, for macro and also for diving with a lot of gear from boat, the size (and ruggedness) are a point. Depth rating: from what I see now, there is a high chance to stick with the 100m. More is very expensive. And 100m fits more than 98% of my dives. And if I go deeper than 100m there is high chance, that the camera stays dry. Power: it looks like, since I like shooting with ambient light (when shooting wide angle), I don't need so much power. Battery and charging: AA is a plus. LiIon is more complex / expensive, but not a deal-breaker. Reliability: is important for me. So actually, your first example with the Inon S220 looks like a good match. Before your post I was somehow tending to have a closer look to the Retras. They are very present. But I wasn't sure, if they are really good or just have good marketing. And if they fit my needs. But since they are larger, heavier and way more expensive than the Inons, I now tend to latter. Thank you! Jens

Hi at all, I am thinking about getting strobes for my Sony A7IV in a Nauticam housing. Up to now I have no experience with strobes, since I mainly use ambient light / cheap china lights to accentuate a detail in a wide angle / cave pictures. I have three use cases: 1) Macro photography I am just starting in macro photography, but my feeling is, that strobes have benefit here, since they emit more light / freeze movements. Using the china lights here was not so bad, but I think strobes will improve the results... 2) Wide angle wrecks (WWL-1b) Up to now I mostly use the ambient light and my buddy using two LED lights to accentuate details on the wreck. Which turns out to work quite nice. For stuff closer to the camera, or if my buddy is the central subject of the picture it might be useful to use strobes on the camera rig. Depths of 100m (maybe plus) 3) Cave diving pictures Up to now using cheap china lights on the camera rig and another two with my buddy / positioned in the cave. Not sure if it is a good idea to mix strobes and LEDs. Might need to stick with LEDs in this case. So my questions are, if I decide to go for strobes, which suit my needs best? How do i connect them with my camera, I guess fiber optics? If I get it right, I need a trigger, e.g. s-turtle. Which one? Just from my feeling I would say TTL might be useful to start? Thanks a lot! Jens Edit: most diving is cold waters, so the strobes need to be operable with thicker / dry gloves.

Up to now I used without a cable trigger. Thanks, will have a look!

So my take home message is, that i can use "classic" DOF calculators for "dry" lenses to (roughly) determine the DOF. Using a focal length of 11mm. Thanks a lot!

Dear all, I use a Nauticam WWL1-B with an A7IV with the 28mm 2.0. Up to now I slightly stopped the lens down to 3.5 to 5.6 and used the AF to focus on the diver. This worked quite well, in some pictures I still had some areas which were out of DOF. Shooting with an ultrawide-angle lens lens above water I usually use a tripod, f 11 and focus only once at the beginning on something a few meters away to use the hyperfocal distance. Shut down AF and just shoot without using the AF again. Up to now I didn't find something similar for the WWL1. Is it possible to do something similar (without tripod)? Is there a formula to calculate the DOF for WWL1? Actually I only would like to have e.g. 1m to 10m or 3 to 30m sharp. Best Jens

In Orkney they have some special stuff, don't know, if they just drop it filming all the time or if they only start filming when a movement is detected: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid0LiNoGuZppT4W5En4YXsGB6Cf9MugHDQuqM7d6DTbxvmZfkaSKT3yJWXqBG1xayiHl&id=100064456731158 Bob Anderson of Halton Charters is involved.

Hej all, I am looking for an external trigger for my camera (Sony A7IV in Nauticam housing). I know that Seacam offers one (with their pole system), but unfortunately not for my camera (at least not a few months ago). I would like to use an external trigger, since I would like to mount my camera on my DPV and trigger it from the DPV handle. To the best of my knowledge, Nauticam doesn't offer an external trigger. Do you know any alternatives? It should be usable at least to 100m of depth. All the best, Jens

Hej guys, thanks for hosting this forum! I recently started with underwater photography. I love diving caves and wrecks. A few photos can be seen on Instagram Cheers Jens