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Mathieu Cornillon

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    14
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  • Last visited

  • Country

    France

About Mathieu Cornillon

  • Birthday 09/17/1981

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand:
    Nikon D7000, with WA (10-17) & Macro (60 + 105)
  • Camera Housing:
    Ikelite
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand:
    2x Nikonos SB-105
  • Accessories:
    Wet diopter Subsee +10

Industry

  • Industry Affiliation:
    NONE

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Mathieu Cornillon's Achievements

Seahorse

Seahorse (4/15)

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  1. @jlaity, thanks for sharing, I work with the exact same workflow with my iPad when I'm on the field, when I want to have a light "computer" configuration to travel with. Otherwise, if I dive from home, or if I have my laptop, I still prefer to process my images on them only due to 2 reasons : - I prefer the "LR Classic" user interface and ergonomy : I'm too used to all the LR Classic Keyboard shorcuts, + easiness of copy/past settings between images - I found that "color fidelity" of the iPad is not so good (I have an old iPad Pro 12"), I'm not quite confident with it, I prefer to perform my color & tonality adjustements on my calibrated screens But I agree that, while on the go, the iPad LR app is really appreciated for preliminary selection, removing missed shots, and initial processings
  2. Yes, I could have, but I would have needed to print supports... So in the end, the holes were the "fastest" solution i've found :p
  3. Thank you Dave, I've printed mine for a MF-2 flash, works well ! A bit tight, but was OK : I printed it using a resin printer, and there is not much flexibility/tolerance. But in the end, it worked, and I'm very happy with it ! (the holes have been added for the 3d resin printing process, to let the resin properly flow out while printing)
  4. It surely is real, but probably is the result of a "multi-exposure", assembling 2 well-thought shots directly in the camera
  5. I've had some (little) experience with resin printing for small parts, that are used outside the housing, and don't need to be watertight : I designed and printed knob extensions for my housing, so that some buttons get easier to manipulate. So far, I found resin printing to be more prone to "breaking", there is strictly NO flexibility, so if your printing tolerances are too tight, you can't force it, otherwise it would break. I've made about 10-15 dives with them, and I have not seen any degradation so far, it seems very stable & durable. Here are examples:
  6. @Barmaglot, I can confirm you fear is valid : I've broke my Ikelite housing during transport in its bag in the trunk of my car, and I suspect it has been done due to the Vivid Leak Sentinel protruding too much, and allowing something (cable, arm, …) to push on it, and break the housing. Attached is the picture of the housing with the crack on it… Hopefully it happened before diving, and the "pressure check" allowed me to detect it… I cried a lot, and left it in my car… I didn't even tried a repair, I had the opportunity to buy a new "2nd hand" housing, like brand-new. null And now, when I pack my gear "ready to dive" (with arms and etc…) in my car for example, I remove the Sentinel, and only put it when arrived, at the hotel or at the shore. But otherwise, I'm really satisfied by the Leak Sentinel (I own the V5, the long one).
  7. I think her mascara is not waterproof…
  8. Hi JB, bienvenue ! 🙂
  9. A whole lot of great pics already shared, congrats, all those pics are really inspiring 🙂 Here is my contribution for my 2023's favorites, taken during a 1 week workshop near Marseille, France, with a lot of very competent trainers (hello @FrancoisC 😉) who pushed me well beyond my confort zone ! Was very proud to achieve some successes in these assignments. Main objective was to master the "mixed light", notably in macro shoots. Here below are my favorites (even if the seahorse is not really a mixed-light one…). All pictures taken with Nikon D7000 / Ikelite / 105mm Nikor / 2x SB-105 strobes
  10. Thank you for sharing, looks appealing 🙂 Do you have more uw pics to share to get more sense of the uw environment ?
  11. I experienced a similar issue with my Nikon D7000 body and my two 105 lenses : - the AFD (old) one - the AFS (newest) one Sometimes, it gets stuck at minimal focus, 1:1, not any possibility to recover focus. Didn't try to switch off then on, will try next time. My solution was : - to stop using my old AFD and instead I bought the AFS : it is slightly better, but can still occur sometimes - to buy an extension port that allows manual focus : as the AFS has a "M/A" focus, I can turn the ring a few turns to "unlock" it from its extreme focus position, and then it gets fine again
  12. Great article, thank you for sharing this, I didn't think Japan was a destination with such potential in diving
  13. Hi ! I'm Mathieu, from Toulouse in France, jumped in underwater photography about 10 years ago, but took it more seriously ~4 years ago. My profile on the previous forum was mcornillon I look forward great discussions, pictures sharing and critiques 🙂 My "work" is available easily on Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/mcornillon_uw_photography/ What do I shoot ? I prefer macro, but do also some wide-angle. And I use some "old" stuff, like an Nikon D7000 in an Ikelite housing, and a pair of Nikonos SB-105 manual strobes 🙂 And of course : congrats to the Waterpixels.net team for setting this up ! great job !
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