-
Snorkeling split-shots
I took a few minutes to draw 2 schematics to explain my previous post, hope it makes it clearer. I already tried this technique once (cf. above), but I think I'll try it again. I think my suggestion applies to split-shots done with scuba-diving equipments on (at the beginning or end of a dive), and NOT to the snorkeling use-case you're talking about JB, but I wanted to add my 2 cents :)
-
-
Snorkeling split-shots
Hi JB ;) I'm adding my own contribution: I once had great success in a dive by reverting my 45º viewfinder to point downwards, meaning I was fully underwater, able to look into the viewfinder while still my head fully underwater. I don't know if that's clear, but the advantage is that my own weight was fully supported by my own buoyancy / BCD, the floating arms were stretched downwards to have some light underneath - and some additional flotation, and I was able to keep my housing at split level by using my own lungs / BCD mechanism in those wavy conditions Here is the result
-
Why have we abandonned oéd Nikonos Strobes
I still shot with my 2x SB-105 :)
-
Focussing a Snoot
Hi Caolila I played a lot with Ray Optics Simulation, I designed my own version of an underwater housing, inside water, and being able to (re)demonstrate the optics effects of a curved dome / flat port. Could be interesting for you, I would be happy to share
-
WTB: Ikelite 4401.x fiber to bulkhead
Hi In France we have a website called "LeBonCoin", similar to Craiglist There currently are 2 guys selling what you're looking for, maybe you should try to contact them : https://www.leboncoin.fr/ad/photo_audio_video/2987066264 https://www.leboncoin.fr/ad/photo_audio_video/2988206352 Wish you luck Mathieu
-
Lightroom for iPad workflow
@jlaity, thanks for sharing, I work with the exact same workflow with my iPad when I'm on the field, when I want to have a light "computer" configuration to travel with. Otherwise, if I dive from home, or if I have my laptop, I still prefer to process my images on them only due to 2 reasons : - I prefer the "LR Classic" user interface and ergonomy : I'm too used to all the LR Classic Keyboard shorcuts, + easiness of copy/past settings between images - I found that "color fidelity" of the iPad is not so good (I have an old iPad Pro 12"), I'm not quite confident with it, I prefer to perform my color & tonality adjustements on my calibrated screens But I agree that, while on the go, the iPad LR app is really appreciated for preliminary selection, removing missed shots, and initial processings
-
Backscatter HF-1 Strobe - Fixing the Power Level Knob
Yes, I could have, but I would have needed to print supports... So in the end, the holes were the "fastest" solution i've found :p
-
Backscatter HF-1 Strobe - Fixing the Power Level Knob
Thank you Dave, I've printed mine for a MF-2 flash, works well ! A bit tight, but was OK : I printed it using a resin printer, and there is not much flexibility/tolerance. But in the end, it worked, and I'm very happy with it ! (the holes have been added for the 3d resin printing process, to let the resin properly flow out while printing)
-
Fake or Real?????
It surely is real, but probably is the result of a "multi-exposure", assembling 2 well-thought shots directly in the camera
-
FDM 3d printing vs. SLA resin-based 3d printing for waterproof parts
I've had some (little) experience with resin printing for small parts, that are used outside the housing, and don't need to be watertight : I designed and printed knob extensions for my housing, so that some buttons get easier to manipulate. So far, I found resin printing to be more prone to "breaking", there is strictly NO flexibility, so if your printing tolerances are too tight, you can't force it, otherwise it would break. I've made about 10-15 dives with them, and I have not seen any degradation so far, it seems very stable & durable. Here are examples:
-
Vacuum System (SeaFrogs)
@Barmaglot, I can confirm you fear is valid : I've broke my Ikelite housing during transport in its bag in the trunk of my car, and I suspect it has been done due to the Vivid Leak Sentinel protruding too much, and allowing something (cable, arm, …) to push on it, and break the housing. Attached is the picture of the housing with the crack on it… Hopefully it happened before diving, and the "pressure check" allowed me to detect it… I cried a lot, and left it in my car… I didn't even tried a repair, I had the opportunity to buy a new "2nd hand" housing, like brand-new. null And now, when I pack my gear "ready to dive" (with arms and etc…) in my car for example, I remove the Sentinel, and only put it when arrived, at the hotel or at the shore. But otherwise, I'm really satisfied by the Leak Sentinel (I own the V5, the long one).
-
Olympus 90mm and 1,4x TC
I think her mascara is not waterproof…
-
Hello from the south of France
Hi JB, bienvenue ! 🙂
-
Your Favourite Photo Of 2023
A whole lot of great pics already shared, congrats, all those pics are really inspiring 🙂 Here is my contribution for my 2023's favorites, taken during a 1 week workshop near Marseille, France, with a lot of very competent trainers (hello @FrancoisC 😉) who pushed me well beyond my confort zone ! Was very proud to achieve some successes in these assignments. Main objective was to master the "mixed light", notably in macro shoots. Here below are my favorites (even if the seahorse is not really a mixed-light one…). All pictures taken with Nikon D7000 / Ikelite / 105mm Nikor / 2x SB-105 strobes
-
St. Eustatius: Diving the Caribbean’s Historic Gem
Thank you for sharing, looks appealing 🙂 Do you have more uw pics to share to get more sense of the uw environment ?