ChipBPhoto

I am frequently in Reef’s store as I live locally to them. Yes, super knowledgeable and patient in solving even unique situations. I would suggest you connect with them prior to give them a heads up on your question/needs so they can get any needed parts if not already in stock.

Wish I had followed my instincts and bought the MFO instead of the SMC-3. I realize they are different tools, but the MFO sounds like it would be more advantages to my personal needs at this time. Thanks for the feedback @Dave_Hicks

@Ar Splujer - Barmaglot explains it above. Pls read the rest of the comments as there is other important info shared.

Fiber is the only way to go! The only reason I used a sync cord was my older Canon required the onboard pop up flash as the trigger. The recycle time was very slow. Now that I have an external trigger with my Sony, fiber is the easiest and most dependable option.

I tried the Retra LSD on the Z-330. While designed for the Inon offset aiming light, it took frequent attempts to get the light correctly positioned. I have not heard of anyone having success snooting with any device other than the Marelux SOFT. The only reason that works is because it is a completely independent design with its own aiming light. Absolutely agree the MF-2 / snoot combo is the best option! Very manageable underwater and small for travel. The aiming design is accurate and easy to use.

I saw the Sony/Nauticam model a few weeks back. NOTE - it uses a rechargeable internal battery. While I personally prefer the individual CR style batteries due to having one less thing to remember to charge, it seems to be well made. The price also seems inline with other smart triggers. If true HSS and/or TTL is desired with the HF-1/MFs and Sony bodies, this will be a needed purchase.

Agreed - the MF-2 is a very solid choice and performs extremely well. Worth the investment.

I purchased a Nauticam viewfinder from @Proteus. Excellent communication, quick ship, and a smooth deal. Arrived exactly as described. Highly recommend!

I gave up waiting on them and picked up a pair of HF-1s. Unless Inon comes up with something substantial to compete with the HF-1 or upcoming Retra Maxis, I fear they will be left behind.

Great question. It really depends on the purpose and target audience. If trying to reach the masses, think of the same rules of a pop song, 2:30 - 3:00 at most. If targeting those who appreciate a more artistic video, then perhaps 7-8 mins, but no longer. A mix may be good. Either way a compelling hook or powerful intro in the first 15 secs is a must to catch attention. Regardless of the length, the quality and story are essential. Good luck! chip

I’d say that was a good move. I prefered paying monthly, but all things considered it’s not a major deal breaker to do the single payment.

The price increase occurs on Jan 15, 2025. That is why the current (old) prices are still showing today. I do not know if it will be a global price increase, but I would not be surprised. As a reminder, the increase only pertains to those who pay monthly. I just switched to a 1-time annual payment which remains at the same as the current price.

Defiantly sad news for all those impacted. And yes, I agree it was their lack of innovation that is the real underlying issue which caused people, including me, to move away from them over the years. While I have 3 of their lights, their "deep sleep" and trying to revive a battery that sits for a period of time has been problematic, for me at least. I was able to resuscitate 2 of the 3, but despite all efforts with CPR and the paddles (taping the charger to the contacts 5 times), it has passed on to the great light sanctuary in the sky. Better start saving for a pair of Keldans! ...that may take a little while.... 🤣🤣🤣

It would be beneficial to qualify and clairify this a bit. Those that talk of finding f/11 the right aperture are mostly 1) using a FF (not APS-C) body and 2) referring to extreme corner edge sharpness, not general overall sharpness. The center of the frame will be very sharp at f/8 or more open, even on a FF high MP camera. If you are photoing an animal in blue water you can open the aperture wider. If you are photoing a very detailed reefscape and sharp extreme edge corners are critical, then f/8-11 would be best. Keep in mind APS-C sensors, like your R7, are generally much more forgiving than high MP FF systems. There is no hard rule as it all depends on different subjects, objectives, and the conditions you are in. Yes, the Canon EF-S 60 works very well with the RF-EF adapter. That will give you a 96mm FF equivalent, similar to Canon 100 on a FF, which is a great macro choice. Perhaps I missed something, but in the opening you mentioned you mostly like wide angle. Specifically that the Tokina 10-17 is the perfect uw lens. Keep in mind the Canon 60 will be a narrow solution, not wide. The important thing is that you settle on a solution that you feel best fits your needs. Congrats and enjoy! (....as background, I have used the WWL as my primary solution for over 5 years and logged 800+ dives with it. I also use the Canon 8-15 w/ a 140 dome. Prior to that, I used the Tokina 10-17 w/ Zen mini dome and Canon EF-S 60 on Canon APS-Cs for 11 years.)

Hi @vkalia I’ll 2nd this option. In my opinion, it’s the best general use lens providing a wide zoom range, very sharp images, and the ability to do almost macro-like super close focus. I’d vote to stick with the R7 you already own. There are no real advantages the Sony a6700 would provide over it. The Canon colors are legendary, including in video. If your current shutter count gets too high, simply pick up either a Canon refurb R7 or a lightly used one and keep going! I did this with my first Canon DSLR and got a very long life from the rig. Enjoy!