JayceeB

14mm Second Set null

So I compared the EF 8-15mm fisheye to the RF 14-35mm, and they’re nearly the same length, so I thought I would try out the 14-35mm with the 140mm fisheye dome port. I set my expectations extremely low, and was hoping it would give acceptable results at the 35mm end. I tested it out on two dives today, and took mainly 35mm shots, but also tried some 14mm shots as well. I was actually pleasantly surprised at how well it performed, at least to my eyes, but I’m not very picky on edge sharpness. I’ve uploaded a few shots to show 35mm and 14mm in case anyone is interested. 35mm first set.

So true. I almost always shoot sharks at 35mm, and usually wished I had more zoom.

I'm running Marelux. Their port chart says to use the 140mm dome with no extension.

Thank you, Chris. I'll think more on the 1.4x. I'm less concerned with the macro working distance than the performance on sharks in low ambient light. I wonder if the 35mm focus hunts in those conditions. I also had a thought that maybe I could run my 14-35 in the 140mm dome, but fix it at 35mm. I'll have to compare the 2 lens dimensions. Anyone tried this in real life?

Hello Waterpixel Community, I have a Spring trip planned to Anilao and Malapascua. I shoot a Canon R5, and will take my RF100 for macro at Anilao, but Malapascua is a little more difficult to plan for given travel weight restrictions. I have an 8-15mm fisheye, but think this might not have enough reach for the sharks, and I also don't want 50 divers in every frame 🙂. My 14-35mm with 230mm dome is just too big and heavy. I was looking at lens options and see that Canon makes an RF 35mm macro that will fit in my 140mm fisheye dome port. Have any of you had experience with this lens underwater? I was thinking it would work well for sharks, but also be nice for clownfish and some larger macro critters. Any feedback on this lens, or other recommendations would be much appreciated. Thank you.

Looking for a Nauticam LCD Magnifier for my RX100 IV Nauticam housing from a US based seller. Thank you.

So the primary purpose is to eliminate or reduce hunting, and likely negate the need to use the limiting switch. Secondary purpose is to improve image quality.

Thank you, Isaac. I look forward to seeing some samples with and without the MFO-1.

I'm not sure I quite understand the advantage of using this lens on an RF100mm yet. Mininum working distance from the port glass of the lens alone is ~80mm for 1.4X magnification. With the MFO-1, minimum working distance can be reduced to 20mm, but you only get an additional .2X magnification = 1.6X. To me, I'd rather have an 80mm working distance to light the subject and miss out on the .2X extra magnification. I think I may be missing something elementary here.

I have been shooting an R5 in a Marelux housing since May 2022. I owned 3 Nauticam housings before that (RX100 IV, Olympus OM-D EM1 II, Sony A7C) The strobe trigger works well. I ran with that trigger for nearly 2 years, then switched to UW Technics for HSS.

Is there really a single right way to carry a camera underwater? I dive with a variety of seasoned dive photographers, and they all do it differently. I say carry it in a manner that works for you, and you'll be doing it the right way. I do it all kine ways, depending on the situation. I know the original post was regarding muck diving, but here's what I do in various dive scenarios. Shore Diving: I carry mine to the beach using two short hand-braided lanyards on each side attached to my D-rings. If one lanyard fails, the other lanyard will still prevent my rig from dropping to the ground. Once in the water, I detach both lanyards and carry it...sometimes with one hand, sometimes with both hands. Offshore: If I'm offshore, I keep it connected with a short hand lanyard. No BCD, so no D-rings. No strobe arms for this scenario. Blackwater: On Blackwater, I use my D-ring lanyards when first jumping in, then switch to a short hand lanyard Boat Diving: I leave my camera attached to to my D-ring lanyards when first jumping in, then detach and adjust strobe arms and remove the dome port cover. When ascending, I attach to my D-ring lanyards for safety stop and/or SMB deployment.

Here is a shot, straight out of camera with no adjustments, using the 5500k diffusers. Shot taken facing East at ~1:30PM in partly cloudy sky at 78' depth. 1/200 sec at f/16, ISO 125, WB 5500K (RF14-35mm at 15mm). The background water is a bit dark, but I think the blue tone is what I was looking for.

Here is a concrete example of where HSS could have been used. This nudibranch egg mass shot was taken in 30’ of clear water during a bright sunny day. I wanted the look of a wide open aperature, shallow depth of field shot. The problem I had was that at my least sensitive ISO (100) and fastest shutter speed (1/200), paired with widest aperture of f2.8, there is just too much ambient light, and the shot in general looks dreamy and soft. I would have preferred being able to increase my shutter speed much higher to get more contrast and a darker background mood to the shot. HSS would have allowed me that flexibility.

I've been wondering where the future of small sensor shooters is going, as I have one in my family, and many friends that shoot with older 1" sensor cameras. Glad to hear about your actual hands on experience with the R50 setup. BTW: @Phil Rudin brought the R50 package up in a different thread as a price conscious option with size and travel benefits.

Thanks for your advice. I tested the Flat white 6300k diffusers on a few dives. They are a just a bit too cold for my taste, but not extremely so. Flat 5500k diffusers ordered.

Aloha Waterpixelers, Has anyone shot the Backscatter HF-1’s in Hawaiian waters? Ideally off Kona. I’m trying to determine the best colored diffuser for the waters here, so if you have feedback or samples with the 5500 or 4500 diffusers you’d like to share, I’d appreciate it. Thank you!

I was looking at the macro capabilities and resolution, which aren't being highlighted in their marketing campaign. 1cm minimum focus distance in macro mode. 20 megapixel sensor Agree with you that a $300 price difference may be a big deal in this category.

https://us.ricoh-imaging.com/product/ricoh-g900-2/

Closest focusing distance=0.48m / 1.6 ft

Thank you @Alex_Mustard. This unbiased feedback was exactly what I was hoping for. Extremely helpful.

Thank you, @Architeuthis ! I have watched the MF-1 episode, but missed the Kraken episode. Has the extra weight of the HF-1's been an issue for you compared to the Z330's?

Does anyone (not selling or sponsored by Kraken or Backscatter) have hands on experience with both the Kraken KR-S160 and the Backscatter HF-1? I am considering both these strobes as replacements for my INON 330's which are nearing end of life. I am most interested in quality of light for fish portraits and wide angle in blue water, ergonometrics, weight and bulk above and below water and reliability. I have a pair of MF-2's for macro. Thanks for your help.

I've had my eye on this setup for a while now as a replacement for my wife's Canon G7XII when the time comes. Excellent value, compact, nauticam housing quality and more camera than most people need.

One observation I've had personally, is that a more compact body and housing do not always equate to a smaller and lighter system underwater or for travel. Check the buoyancy of the housing+body and compare. If you end up with a small housing with greater negative buoyancy, you will end up adding float arms which adds weight and bulk, and you don't really save as much as initially expected in that regard. Nauticam lists the: R7 Housing + Camera = +.1 kg buoyant. 6600 Housing + Camera = -.43kg buoyant (this does not include the optional accessory battery) That's a .53 Kg difference that would need buoyancy added to the Sony kit to make it equivalent buoyancy to the Canon. Arms, strobes, lights would be equal for either kit.