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Everything posted by JustinO
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There does seem to be a worrying uptick in frequency in Egypt, and beyond. 6 in the 12 months to June this year according to this article https://divemagazine.com/scuba-diving-news/fire-alert-improving-liveaboard-fire-safety-for-divers Testimony from those on board seems to suggest deficiencies in training, absence of/poor briefings, few patrols, and lack of working alarm systems - so complacency is to some extent creeping in, influenced (in Egypt at least) by policy pressures (removals of subsidies on fuel, introduction of new taxes, inflation) which has put pressure on operating costs. I haven't noticed much of an increase in holiday costs for some years now- so what's being compromised on- margin? Maintenance? Salaries? As customers, we can do our bit to push for greater focus on this by demanding evidence of inspections/maintenance/fire safety drills when booking, and on embarkation, encouraging each and every passenger to test escape hatches, and walk the route and count the number of steps from cabin to emergency exit. Knowing the route can help in a smoke-filled corridor. Feeding back to operators and agents and calling out bad practice on forums might also help.
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FWIW, I bought an M3 Pro in May this year, and am really pleased with it - it is my first Mac, so I can't compare vs other models. However, it is very fast at exporting RAW to JPG, and removing dust and scratches, etc. I keep my files on an external Samsung T9 SSD, and that works really well for me. It also has an SD card slot inbuilt. Like Wofgang, I bought the 14" to take on travels and work - i find the ability to render detail on zooming in is instantaneous, and am happy with that compromise vs a bigger screen. I bought the Space Black version - contrary to claims, it does show up marks - but it doesn't scream "I'm a Mac" and as we divers all know, gear looking cool is the primary purchase consideration....!
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Thanks Wolfgang! Increasingly seems like I shall have to retire my old laptop and just look at them on my Mac; even in sRGB on the Mac they still look better in sRGB than they do on the laptop. Thanks for the tip on the BenQ... I'd been quietly coveting one of those.. just need an excuse to pull the trigger on one...
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Hi all, Prior to April, I was using LR on a Windows laptop, and the screen was calibrated in sRGB. I was processing and exporting in sRGB in Lr, so there was no change in what I was seeing in LR when I exported to disk, or posted. I recently went to Mac (work reasons, but I also wanted a better display quality). My Mac is set to use display P3, and that (or Image P3) is my chosen colour space in Ps and Lr. I find this gives a lot of extra colour particularly on reds, oranges and greens (Nembrotha kubaryana look really good!). I then export in sRGB, where I've found the colours suddenly look a little duller and lack a bit of wow. I spent far too much time trying to read up on what i should be doing last weekend ... and the internet advice was as contradictory as ever. I note that sRGB has much less gamut than p3, but are there any tips folks have found when using Lr on a Mac to keep the great colours we see on our screens, and make sure others can enjoy them too (both on screen and in print)? Are people setting Mac workspace to sRGB (and losing the ability to adjust screen brightness) and doing the same in Lr and Ps? More adjustment to Vibrance? Exporting with embedded colour profile? Any tips and drawbacks from one approach or another gratefully received - thanks in advance.
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No, I can't imagine using the Oly 90mm with the SMC- 3 either it's hard enough with the lens on 2x .... But I'll throw out a challenge to someone willing and able to take the first picture of Shaun the Sheep's testicles. Do I also hear the sound of many photographers singing? 🎵 "All I want for Christmas is an SMC-3?" 🎵 Sorry for using the C- word in October...
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And I'm up near Devizes... so similarly happy to meet up, chat, etc!
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Strobe can’t be used with it’s full potential
JustinO replied to Michi's topic in Photography Gear and Technique
We'd really need to know a bit more about what settings you' re using to help. For example, are you shooting Manual on both the strobe and the camera, or something else? I have the EM 1 - Mk II and use the YS-D3 and have no issues at all powers in M on both. I've not used the D2s, but would guess there isn't too much difference. In manual on the camera with mechanical shutter and M on the strobe, it should sync up to 1/250 at all strobe powers, and if you use a trigger you can get even higher (1/400) without any black bars appearing. -
PG has a mandarin dive right in the harbour outside Sabang, somewhere near Asia Divers and Atlantis. It's right in the harbour but from what I know people still go by boat (maybe for safety?). Upside is it's pretty close to some resorts, and the fish are pretty much guaranteed, but that brings the downside too. There's no agreement between resorts as to "who dives what night"- so it's hit or miss as to whether you have it to yourself or whether it's crowded. It can be a bit dull- hovering in one spot for 20+ mins waiting...waiting... and waiting - less fun if the current picks up! We had one nice dive pretty much all to ourselves with one other small group - the second was awful: far too many people, some of whom from one of resorts beginning with "A" were either incredibly badly briefed or just thoughtless, clueless, and selfish.
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What Tim said! I have been twice, and will keep going back - to be honest, there's enough at the places I've been to keep me interested, and coming back. I did one week in Malapascua, which wasn't enough - saw the threshers, and the macro sites were good too, but I could have dived them again and again to get better pics. Food at Exotic divers was outstanding in 2019. Went to PG this year, and also loved it - lots of sites, and loads of stuff to see - plus there is Verde Island, which is really recommended. They had threshers early in the year, before the water got too warm (by May). I did about 4 per day in PG, and still didn't see all sites, or get all shots I was after. Only drawback is that the transfer to and from Manila is by road, and can be quite long as traffic is bad.. we left at 14h and got to the airport about 5hrs later -but Cebu wasn't much different, tbh! Worth bearing in mind that P'pines is great value compared to some other places; so I'd suggest not trying to do too many places at once - it's a mindf*** underwater, and you can plan a trip back really rather easily. And you will want to go back...
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Hey Mark Sorry to hear about the failure - must be gutting, particularly to lose a rig you're well used to. I'd suggest that as part of your research you get in touch with Alex Tattersall, the UK Nauticam distributor. Alex has always been really open with me about what I'm considering, and his advice has always been straight up, not pushing me to buy. I guess that's part of being a photo instructor, not just a dealer. Alex will likely be able to tell you what the art of the possible is regarding your old ports. Part of what I and others like about Nauti is the after sales service and support -which I guess is why I stick with it. Alex can be contacted below: https://www.uwvisions.com/contact/
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Mexico Underwater Camera "Tax" spread to Cancun
JustinO replied to ShallowSeasGallery's topic in Trip Reports & Travel
Why not just save yourself the hassle John and just take the GoPro rather than anything more complex? That way you're not going to worry about all your shiny new kit getting "taxed", and you are more likely to enjoy the trip knowing you haven't been stung before you've had a chance to enjoy it...such an event happening would prey on my mind all trip and make me even more grumpy. FWIW, Mexico has found its way OFF my list...this and the Mayan train damaging the cenotes tell me all I need to know about the value placed on divers, diving, and the environment. -
First time flying with camera gear, any tips or tricks?
JustinO replied to AlClarence's topic in Trip Reports & Travel
I use a combination of the following- and so far, I've not had an issue. And I feel no issues with taking the moral high ground when I see the size of some people's "personal item". But i can't say it isn't without it's stress level. 1. Take a fishing jacket, like Wolfgang does. I've also not [yet] had to fill it. 2. Use a Manfrotto rucksack for most of my gear. This is "short and fat" so it seems smaller than it is... coupled with standing up as straight as I can helps make it seem lighter. 3. Use my personal item allowance (laptop case) to the max. Amazing how many lenses/ attachments can fit around a laptop. 4. Use my other half for excess. But now she's getting GAS, I think that is a curve of diminishing returns... 5. Use a soft oversize bag for check in. If it doesn't quite fit in the chute, then the sides seem to reduce the weight up to about a kg or two. If that isn't enough, then a well-placed and subtle foot seems to help lift the weight off the belt a bit (well, my doctor says that putting weight mostly on one leg is good for us)! 6. If nothing else works, engage the check in staff in a load of random conversation. My partner's great at that. ...and I hope none ever read this thread or we're all buggered. -
Just to add to this, I would advocate for a shackle as an integral way to attach the lanyard to the hole in the handle bracket. I have seen a boltsnap slip whilst the camera was being handed down to a diver.... fortunately all was well. Trying to repeat the failure back on the boat showed the owner just how easy his boltsnap slipped out when the bracket edge came up against the opening of the snap. He was able to repeat it with ease..so put it away for the rest of the trip.
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Do you happen to know how it interacts with that well known repellent substance Mal-de-Mer? I've heard that can make a real mess of dome ports, particularly as I'm told it's often plant based product... rumours of the factory being unable to fully process carrots and other ingredients are everywhere on the interweb...
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Generic replacement for Nauticam m67 port cap
JustinO replied to JustinO's topic in Tutorials, How-Tos, DIY
This is what I went with in the end: Ulbter 67mm lens cap cover It comes in a twin pack, with two elasticated lanyards that slip nicely over the port to help guard against loss. Fit is very snug. You can also buy the elastic lanyards separately in case needed. Now I have one spare to put on my CMC, and all for about one third the price of an original... Davide, there's a beer with your name it on it if we ever bump into each other. Cheers. -
Thank you for taking the time to write this. Really resonates well with me, and welcome the insight into your thought process. As others have said, oh for the time to spend with a subject - it really does matter who you dive with, and how willing the group is to respect each other's needs. I find it very trying when I've found my subject, and then others decide that they'd like a go... I need a signal for "Find your own" - I don't think the middle finger gesture is totally conducive for sharing a beer later....!
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Generic replacement for Nauticam m67 port cap
JustinO replied to JustinO's topic in Tutorials, How-Tos, DIY
Fantastic, thanks Davide Much appreciate the response - a significant saving indeed! -
HI all, a tale of woe (well, minor inconvenience)... I recently lost my port cap for an m67 port when surfacing from a dive. I replaced it at the end of the dive, waited for everyone else to board in the swell, and then handed up my rig. Not long after, I noticed no cap... it wasn't on the boat, so it's lost. Lesson learned on securing such vulnerable bits of kit. But my question is, does anyone have any ideas for a suitable replacement at better prices than a genuine replacement (£22)? THe part is here: macro port cap There's a huge selection of m67 caps out there, but any advice to help me get a "first time right" replacement that grips the port well gratefully received... I am sure i am not the first, nor the last to suffer this. I've drawn a blank on old threads on WetPixel. Cheers in advance Justin
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Yes, I really rate the compressed air solution - it's something I welcome at resorts and boats- a great way to blow most of the rinse water off your ports and housings before it dries and risks leaving water marks on ports/wet lenses. The device that Ben suggests will blow air at low pressure, but be aware that some other devices on the market don't link to the LP hose and operate at a much higher pressures. If in the future you have access to one, I'd suggest getting into habit of blowing air from about 12 inches away, and resisting the temptation to go closer to force air into all the nooks and crannies and get those little drops that just seem to move around the housing... I have heard stories of people forcing water into the housing this way from HP systems, likely down the button shafts, then slipping past an o ring. Not seen or experienced it though. Best tip is to never be in a hurry to open your housing... rinse it, wipe it, dry the port glass thoroughly, then put in in the a/c camera room or your cabin if available, then go grab a coffee/a meal/ harangue your buddy over their underwater modelling skills.... you get the point!
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As Lewis says, very. I test my battery and the circuit integrity a month before each trip using a damp cotton bud - works very well... loud enough to spook the cat (well, that's one way to minimise the risk of a stray hair I suppose)! Glad all seems to be well, and enjoy the trip!
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Is there a chance that your rig got nudged in the tank? That's one of the classic areas where damage can occur. Personally I never take my eyes off it when I'm rinsing it - a 30 second dunk followed by a working of all the buttons under the water, then I take it out. As others suggest, next step is to dry it off completely (including the port glass to avoid unsightly marks) before opening it, or releasing the vacuum. Whereabouts was the water? near the vacuum release might suggest that as a cause, but that will look like a fine spray. Worth checking all the vulnerable areas (basically all o-rings) including where an eyepiece docks in, the port, etc. It might not be from the main o ring, just perhaps gathered there as a result of the position the camera was in in the tank. If you have a wet macro lens / magnifying glass to hand, might also be worth looking through that to see if any tiny hairs/ grit are in either side of the o ring seats. And as all say, definitely do a dry run without a camera.
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YS D1 strobe reset or firmware update
JustinO replied to Grant M's topic in Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique
Hi Grant, Have you spoken to Kevin at Aquaphot? He's more than likely seen a few through his workshop at some point and either a) may have some ideas on how to fix or some spares knocking about....notwithstanding that it's old stock. Kevin has helped me with a few issues, either fixing S&S stuff or getting answers on my behalf. Try and contact him through https://aquaphot.com/ Other than that, am out of ideas. -
Echo that! I for one am fed up with my partner being bombarded by adverts from Zuckerberg's outfit for car batteries, brewing supplies, and even worse, camera gear... how on earth am I expected to indulge my GAS when she knows all about it before I've bought it?! Rant over. and back to topic...another RED FLAG for me would under the following scenario: - The "seller" is actively involved in a conversation with you (so you know they're not doing something else). - The "seller" is unable to respond to a question about the gear/shooting underwater that only a real photographer would know... if they have to break off to check Dr Google that tells you all you need to know....
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Bug in LRc 13.2?
JustinO replied to Architeuthis's topic in Shooting Technique, Workflow and Editing
This is definitely a Mac bug... just took delivery of my first one, and i get exactly the same issue as you @Architeuthis. And that's the first thing I did on authorising the new Mac. On Windows, on the same file no issue... Hope they fix it soon, as it's a pig!