Everything posted by makar0n
-
Cheap Olympus / OM System flash trigger alternatives for FL-LM3 - like a Godox iM-22
Hmm so I did just take the LM3 out, and played with it a bit - had to wait for recharge when on full, but on 1/64 it was indeed fine (well during the limited testing). Sequential was a bit weird though - mechanical, 10fps, 1/64, it would fire on the 1st, then around 8-9th again. Sequential silent, 20fps, just the 1st pic would flash. Dunno, I really do not remember how I had it exactly set up, but it was definitely lagging then. Could be indeed it was on full or higher than 1/64 though, something vaguely rings a bell that I had one of the fiber optic cables a bit mangled, hence maybe I kept the power higher (otherwise it would not trigger)? Or there is something wrong with my unit. Either way, good enough as a backup. Do not think it was anything to do with SD cards - using Sabrent UHS-II 256GB ones, both test at around 185-195MB/s write and files on OM1 are generally <20MB. And did not notice any slowdown (write; when taking pics) just now, using the sequential silent mode. Either way, I definitely prefer the mini trigger, and at ~280 of them euro things, I could not refuse ;)
-
Cheap Olympus / OM System flash trigger alternatives for FL-LM3 - like a Godox iM-22
Assuming by "mini flash" you mean the FL-LM3 - Hmm I would go for about the same average shot wise. Do not remember how it was set though so do not want to say it was 1/64 but definitely was changing the battery after 2-3 dives max (each on the longer side). That said there would be still some %% left but felt like I am a bit on the edge so better be safe than sorry was my thinking. Last thing I wanted was a dead camera underwater xD Speed wise - definitely noticed that on some consecutive shots it was sometimes not ready and I had to wait for it to charge. This was on a trip couple years back though, literally the only time I had to use the backup, it just sits there since. With mini trigger - not a single speed "issue" and do not have to worry about battery life at all. Even after 4 long dives, often enough juice left to the point that I could do another few the next day if needs be. Definitely noticeable difference in terms of battery life. Had a similar experience with GH4 built-in flash vs GH4 with Nauticam mini-trigger as well - could also see the difference in recycle time as well as battery life. Maybe I am doing something wrong but definitely prefer the mini trigger 😁
-
Cheap Olympus / OM System flash trigger alternatives for FL-LM3 - like a Godox iM-22
Buy cheap, buy twice or something along those lines xD While the Nauticam/Turtle/UWT triggers might be pricey, its pretty much a one-off purchase, that will last you even decades possibly. Also they do offer two major advantages, at least from my point of view: a) recycle time - FL-LM3 is noticeably slower, even on lowest settings. Very annoying when you want to shoot a couple of pics in a quick succession, only to realize you cannot because the flash is still charging up b) camera battery life - perhaps the biggest advantage - with OM1+FL-LM3, I can kind of a do 2 dives /2h, after that the 3rd dive/hour becomes a bit "risky" depending on how many pictures I've taken during the previous two. With mini-trigger (using Turtle myself), I can do 4 dives/hours, and only have to worry slowly around the 5th one. Major plus when on the boat if I do not have to open the housing and change batteries, or, when doing long dives. Yes, I still keep the FL-LM3 around - it is basically a backup, should anything happen to the main trigger during the trip. And indeed it has saved my bacon once - better slow recycle than no recycle at all 🤣 Speaking of Turtle, they have literally just announced v3 of their trigger, might wanna check it out. This might mean that there could be some good offers on v2 coming.
-
New SMART 3 triggers from TRT-Electronics
Finally a user replaceable battery and USB-C, neat! It looks like the LED plug has been improved too - good to see, these were sometimes very hard to unplug.
-
Photographic Gear Prices in USA after Trump's Tariffs
Right. And Adobe will once again offer their software as a one time purchase.
-
Photographic Gear Prices in USA after Trump's Tariffs
Europe is not getting better neither. MFO was 425 EUR on Nauticam website, at least in December 2024. Now it shows as 524 EUR. So a lovely 20%+ hike. Off we go to a flying start. Meanwhile 3rd party shops all have it at 449 EUR.
-
Underwater Photography Abbreviations
I still go for the MotherF****** Optics (or Optimizer)...it has a certain power emanating charm somehow 🤣
-
Photographic Gear Prices in USA after Trump's Tariffs
"The company cited “a challenging economic environment" (...)." Yeah because 7.5B USD or thereabout in net profit for 2024 was not enough. Poor, poor Sony. Yup, there it starts.
-
Photographic Gear Prices in USA after Trump's Tariffs
Spot on. Once the companies have an excuse they will ramp up the prices everywhere. Just look at energy companies behavior in 2022 and their record profits afterwards. So let's enjoy the EU prices while we still can.
-
Photographic Gear Prices in USA after Trump's Tariffs
Come to the EU we have cookies cheap Nauticam stuff 🤣 ...and it gets even cheaper in low VAT countries or if you are from the "outside" and can claim the tax back. Though Australia is a special case...everybody prices stuff there as way more as you are seen as rich down under.
-
Upcoming Server Upgrade 😳
This is some powerful dark magic, you be careful there ye mighty wizard.
-
Upcoming Server Upgrade 😳
I really love you now 😆
-
Fibre optic cable not triggering Supe D Pro
If that does not work, Nauticam website lists two stores in Manila - guess shipping is an option. Their cable will definitely work but it won't come cheap. https://www.nauticam.com/pages/store-locator Good luck!
-
Fibre optic cable not triggering Supe D Pro
Are you using the housing flash trigger on R7 vs built-in flash on Olympus? If so, it could be the fiber optic cable is simply not up to scratch - either single core or very much mangled. Basically flash triggers produce less light, hence with a bad cable, simply not enough will travel over to trigger the strobe. That is the very exact behavior I had years ago when first switching to a flash trigger - ended up replacing the cables and all works perfect. DIY is an easy route, see below. Or need to buy a premade one - i.e 613 core.
-
Inon Z-XXX Prototype at Paris Dive Show
I wonder what the heck is "cTTL" ...and there seems to be two manual modes ? Could it be HSS hiding somewhere there ? Light seems upgraded too, now one can choose between white and red - good idea, while inserts were fine, it was not something that was easily changed during the dive really.
-
MFO-1 and focus limiter
Same here. Also while the port chart mentions 45 and 60mm lense, 90mm is conspicuously absent.
-
Retra Pro Max - Accu issue
Pay an arm and a leg for strobes, be forced to spend another half a grand on pretty much "mandatory but not included" battery extension that also increases strobe size/weight, and get to carry half a kilo of batteries alone plus an armful of chargers. Could not resist. You may spank me now😉 At least left that "Apple 8GB of RAM" thread alone....for now 🤣
-
Adobe LR and PS getting more expensive in 2025 worldwide or just in US?
Pretty much a monopolist who refuses to sell the software, instead forcing the users to rent it, raises the price whenever they feel like it. Totally unexpected 🤣
-
Dumb Idea - Strobe Trigger
Hmm I might not be the knowledgeable one when it comes to those flashy things, but Olympus FL-LM3, which is also a "normal" flash, works fine. I think the major issue with the Godox will be fitting it inside the housing - FL-LM3 only fits because Nauticam designed the housing with the necessary space.
-
Help - strobe(s) not firing.
Hmm had similar issues with Nauticam trigger and Z240s - issue was the cable (original multi-core Nauticam) was basically half broken - i.e. after years of use, too many strands have failed and not enough light went through. That said, putting a stronger trigger (TRT) did help with another cable that had similar issues (DYI multi-core one this time that I did not make very well...). Silly question - you sure its original Inon cable and not some cheap replica? As looks too cheap for an original and don't think Inon makes them in 2m length neither. Such random cables often use shitty quality (or single core) fiber optic and that might result in not enough light being carried to trigger the strobes. Again, speaking from experience of buying similar once and not being able to trigger the strobes as well - it would work fine with built in flash, as it was more powerful, but not with the Nauticam trigger... You can very easily make you own cable - see here: And here:
-
Retra Pro Max - Accu issue
Eneloops Pro are handling low temps pretty well so I do not think 6 degrees would be an issue. Since battery usage will differ between different devices, and yes, one failing battery can result in strobe complaining about not having juice (gets uneven so to speak). I would suggest a few more tests that will hopefully help you determine where the issue might be: 1) Confirm issue happens again i.e. this was just not a fluke dive (unless done multiple dives already that is with issue persisting) 2) Swap batteries around - is the issue staying with the same strobe or moving with the batteries? (though you do mention "second Retra Pro Max started showing signs..." 3) Try other/completely new batteries - yeah no ideal to having to buy new ones but that way you can see if that makes difference. Hopefully you will then at least have a better idea whether issue is battery or strobe related. Another angle is the internal battery resistance - the 015 reading does seem a bit low (vs others). You could try to mix and match the sets i.e. find ones that are reading high and try only those. Could be also charger though - a lot of them are simply inaccurate as well as slot dependant (i.e. battery will read differently on different slots) As I had some time on my hands, I took out Xtar VC4S and measured resistance. Note that I am not sure as to how accurate this is - for example one battery showed about 121 mΩ (once), I then swapped it to another slot and now it shows 38 mΩ (or thereabout after swapping few more times)...To counter this, I have read each set twice - 2nd time just randomly swapping batteries between slots to see if readings will change (so readings in second column do not belong to the same line as first column technically) - and yes they did, so I suspect my charger is not that accurate neither. 3 sets of Eneloop Pros, all produced between 09-11/2011, all 3 work fine in all my devices including Z240s. Have not been charged or used for a few months so voltage on all is just under 1.3V. Set #1 mΩ #1 mΩ #2 23 28 38 18 27 31 32 27 Set #2 mΩ #1 mΩ #2 31 21 21 23 23 18 47 31 Set #3 mΩ #1 mΩ #2 43 20 54 18 23 20 72 30
-
Inon Z-XXX Prototype at Paris Dive Show
I always wondered - do people still use the 5 pin ? Fiber sounds like so much easier/simpler solution really. Personally I think i've opened that 5 pin cap on Z-240 once...for greasing xD
-
Inon Z-XXX Prototype at Paris Dive Show
Waiting for the Pro Max Retina XDR Thunderbolt Liquid model. And 1k stand as an accessory 🤣
-
Inon Z-XXX Prototype at Paris Dive Show
Let's add "travel and tight spaces friendly". Could also go with "power efficient". And this wannabe Apple Pro Max naming....yikes xD
-
Inon Z-XXX Prototype at Paris Dive Show
The very exact thing. Not bothered about GN gazillion at all - would love a travel and tight places friendly strobe (and not the current crop of bricks) with modern features like HSS, maybe even a circular tube for a nice beam. Support for Li-Ion batteries (maybe even interchangeable with AA) purely for a faster recycle rate. Absolutely no battery packs. Well made, with a minimum 100m depth rating and reasonably priced as well. But a man can dream...