Tom Kline

The hood is shown in the link that I posted up-thread. Scroll up and click. It is generic, i.e., no brand. The only text on it is 67mm.

The only marking on it is "67mm" like the first one in this search result: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=67mm+vented+lens+shade&atb=v320-1&ia=shopping&iax=shopping

screws in

I did not want to speculate above but one possibility is gas expansion in the battery compartment pushing the o-ring in the wrong direction. BTW when I take a pressure reading of my housing using the Backscatter model housing sucker part (there is a gauge on it), the vacuum reading tends be lower (!) after use in local water (local mean water temp measured by a graduate student is 5°C). Housing is still cold; it takes hours to warm up at room temp.

I do not have a pic of mine. Keep in mind that 67mm is a very common filter size with many lens shades available. Both for protection and flare reduction. The one I have in the case with my SMC is a vented shade like those made for rangefinder cameras. Possibly to have less drag.

Aquatica as well as Ikelite use inch sized bulkheads. Mostly likely because the tools for inch sizes are more available (and cheaper) in this part of the world. Certainly easier to find locally in hardware stores, e.g. taps to thread the holes.

I use a lens shade in the threads of my SMC-1. Probably a good idea with the MFO unless one is overly concerned with extra drag.

Your story reminds me of one from a few months ago involving Retra. Diving on more than one day without opening and re-sealing. What can happen? One can only speculate. I have done multiple dives many times without changing batteries in my strobes within a day but not with a time gap of an overnight. I have for the camera housing (two days diving (as well as stream shooting) without recharging or removing cards).

Nice shot. I have been able to take group shots of salmon etc. schooled up and generally not moving much but it does take some time for them to get use to the camera which I keep on the bottom (negatively buoyant). There are many examples on my website in several galleries.

I have mainly used wired remote controls made by Seacam for my work with both Nikon and Canon DSLR cameras. The Seacam release stick is two-stage like the shutter release button on a camera. First the AF is turned on (camera woken up if needed) and second the shutter is triggered by additional finger preassure on the button. This allows one to finesse the AF so as to get the fish in focus at the right moment. I have not used anything via USB but over the past Christmas holidays at my sister's I used my ipad mini to trigger my Nikon Z9 remotely using the Nikon Snapbrige app. wirelessly. That worked only fairly. A lot of misses due to sluggish response as well as poor haptics via the screen release. As well the app frequently stopped working even with only glass (sliding door) between my ipad and the camera at just a couple of meters (close range). I did manage to get a few good shots of some Virgina wildlife at a bird feeder this way but I did shoot thousands of pix. Examples are on my website.

Getting more magnification generally means getting closer (keeping the same lens). One will get more magnification along with greater working distance using a longer focal length lens. But they are more difficult to use due to the narrower angle of view one gets with a longer focal length. There is no free lunch. Also using a diopter instead of a teleconverter (TC) will yield a larger working aperture, i.e. brighter (if this is what you meant by "allow more light onto the lens"; lens shades are used to avoid this as this is generally a not desirable). TCs were used quite a bit to get greater than 1:1 a few years ago).

With the new Retra strobe already in the pipeline I have a number of new things to try out with its particular capabilities: short flash duration (under 1 millisecond) as well as the possibility of "motor drive mode" shots. Should keep me off the streets for much of the upcoming year, ROTFL!

If the SMC-2 is too powerful there is not much point to another diopter alongside either a -1 or -3 given the extended focusing range intrinsic to the RF100.

A quick followup to my post from yesterday. I heard back from Retra last night (Alaska time). The maxi IS compatible with the E-Opto converter also used for the gen 3&4 Retras. I showed my approval by pre-ordering. Happy Black Friday.