
Everything posted by TimG
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Hi from Oxford, UK
Hi Eyal Good to have you with us. Welcome to your new home 😉
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Nauticam Macro Port Glass Replacement
This is my recollection of how mine was done. I think having a new o-ring available is important. The old one may well be damaged during the extraction process - especially if you use a dental pick!
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Hawk Tuah anti-fog agent
Is Hawk Tuah green?? (Brilliant. Pity it's not 1 April!)
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Retra Strobes Pros & Cons
You pays your money and you take your chances. I loved my Inons but pretty much zero customer support, oddly quirky controls and an indigestible manual. Retra? Yep, expensive for sure but a quality product, super light quality, terrific support and backup. Bluetooth firmware updates, anyone?
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Nauticam Macro Port Glass Replacement
If we get an answer to this, I'll pin it. It'd be really useful. I saw it done some years ago when I worked in Lembeh. Shen, one of the techies from Reef Photo, replaced the glass on one of my Subal ports. It took him about 10 minutes to get the old glass out using a modified cut-down dental pick plus an approx 4" lever he'd made out of thick acrylic - or polycarbonate. It looked like a push bike tyre lever. It was one of those pick-pull-lever-curse-pick-lever-mutter-lever-bingo manoeuvres. Popping the new glass in took seconds. It was very impressive! I scrounged the lever and pick off him in exchange for free diving..... I've never done it myself though. Probably just as well.
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Subtronic Strobes
We English care about you, Atus, especially after last night. A deserved win!
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Negative Space: Find It, Make It, Use It
Hey, you joke. I've seen it done. I've seen spectacular pics of a nudi crawling along a mirror. Shades of Apocalypse Now?
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Negative Space: Find It, Make It, Use It
Apologies for the poor layout and captions. I was really struggling to get images to sit in the appropriate place in the text with a fuller caption. After several attempts, I gave up!
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Subtronic Strobes
The link doesn't seem to work? I had a Heinrich Weikamp TTL convertor around 2010. Cracking piece of kit!
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Mexico Underwater Camera "Tax" spread to Cancun
Cozumel next?
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Negative Space: Find It, Make It, Use It
Negative Space The two main tips on starting underwater photography are Get Close and Shoot Upwards. The idea being that the closer you get, the less the water interferes with the image. By shooting upwards there is a better chance of increasing the impact of subject by separating it from a messy background. Those two elements of guidance, especially the latter, can go a long way to improving image-making. But there comes a point for many underwater photographers where images become all a bit routine - yet another fish portrait? A FRESH APPROACH I hit this plateau some years back whilst running a dive resort in the Lembeh Straits. Just how many xxxxfish/seahorse shots could I take? I wanted fresh ideas. A fresh approach. I wanted to create something that wasn’t a fish portrait. A resort guest, a very talented underwater photographer, pointed me in the direction of using “negative space”. What? Negative space is “a term used in art to describe the space surrounding a subject. Also called white space, it is typically empty and lacks details as to simplify an image. Negative space surrounds positive space in a work of art”. “Typically empty” and “lacks details” are the key elements. A blank canvas. So how do you find or create “negative space”? A very simple example: if you shoot upwards, into the blue, you have lots of negative space - the whole ocean. Lighting can be tricky but is manageable. SEARCHING FOR NEGATIVE SPACE How about searching for a piece of coral that produces effectively a blank canvas? Corals can come in all sorts of interesting colours, shapes and sizes: think, for example, of Elephant Ear corals with their vibrant orange colour. A blank, orange canvas. Then see what lives there, what lies there, what might come on to that canvas and create a visually striking image against the negative space. What about a colourless rock? Or one covered in red algae? With this technique, you think about the dive in a different way and new ideas emerge: graphical images, images of perhaps only one or two strong and contrasting colours or shapes. The fish portrait starts to disappear and the image becomes one of lines, colours and contrasts. The subject might become an accessory to a strong visual impression. Try a dive where, instead of going hunting for a subject, you go hunting for a good negative space, a canvas, and see what might be there or, with patience, what might show up. Take some time to weigh-up the canvas: angles, colours, contrasts…. you might end up spending the whole dive in only one or two spots. CREATING NEGATIVE SPACE Inevitably though some dives sites just don’t offer negative space. So create your own. There are several ways. Using the widest aperture setting, so reducing depth of field, can turn a fussy background into a creamy, indistinguishable canvas. This is using the “bokeh” effect beloved of portrait photographers. This works very well if shooting low and upwards. (I can recommend 45-degree viewfinder for this!) and for subjects that are parallel to the camera sensor rather than being at right angles. Or the opposite: a fast shutter speed will reduce the amount of light the camera sees and turn the background into that classic black canvas. Or maybe not quite so fast and get a mid or dark blue canvas. Rather than shoot at, say 1/100, try 1/250 or the fastest your camera can sync with the strobes. High Speed Synchronisation - HSS - equipped strobes and triggers are a major bonus allowing much higher shutter speeds. Or use a snoot. Snoots are a great way of concentrating light onto a subject. A negative space is then created in the shape of a black or unlight canvas for the areas the snoot does not light. SEE THE DIFFERENCE Hunt for negative spaces, play around with these techniques and you may well find a whole new style of diving and a whole new way of image-making. Images which are strong graphically or in their simple and contrasting colours. And if that doesn’t work, you can always go back to fish portraits. A fast shutter speed creates a black canvas A red canvas of algae A wide aperture creates a blurry background Coral creates a canvas for a graphical image Snoots create negative space and highlight subject
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1" ball clamps
Chip made an excellent suggestion in another post about having a pair of the longer clamps to use with arms fitted with Stix. I don’t have these for my system but if I was starting from scratch I’d have two for connecting the pairs of arms fitted with Stix. I don’t think you need them for the other connections.
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1" ball clamps
Hey Johno i think there are only a couple of areas of u/w equipment purchasing where you only need to buy once. Arms and clamps are one of very few. Buy once, buy well. Tempting though it is to get Amazon’s best, I’d advise against it strongly. I bought ULCS in 1999. I still have them all, they work perfectly and never a blip. It was money well spent - unlike some of my u/w investments. I’ve bought a couple of cheap clamps a couple of times. Maybe good for a short time but nothing like the quality or longevity of ULCS. And, if you look at second hand prices of ULCS, they hold their value way better than the rest of the gear we use!
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1" ball clamps
Members have noticed slight differences. It might be better to try and stick with one make if you can.
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New toys.
Big vote for Stix. I’ve been using the same set since 2010 and they’re still good as new and they’ve done well over 1000 dives. They’re very easy to adjust, add, or remove. You can even cut them with care.
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New toys.
Good tip from Chip on the soak and work the buttons and levers routine post-dive. I’d also add don’t let the port glass dry with water on it. That develops water marks in time. It pays to wipe dry port glass with a soft fibre-free cloth. Enjoy your new gear. And be prepared for the initial frustrations! Anytime you need help emptying your bank account, we’re here for you…. 😝
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UW Imaging Evolution Thoughts.......
Some great thoughts.... Whatever the tools used, isn't much of what we do all about creating something that gives us pleasure and a sense of satisfaction? Whether that's done with film, digital, AI or a wet finger, does it really matter? Explain Jackson Pollock to Vermeer.......
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Hello from USA
Great to have you with us, Diver Dave 1. A warm welcome to Waterpixels.
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Retra Strobes and equipment
Firmware update now available v2.2 for ProMax
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
Fibre optic cables: make you own. Easy, cheap, satisfying,….
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RETRA Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
You make a good point. I had an issue some time ago with a strobe/trigger combination and blamed all sorts of people: Retra, UWT, the Almighty, Life..... It turned out that the problem was with the way I'd cut the fibre optic cables (with scissors and not with a razor blade). Retra were extremely helpful - not to mention patient - in calming me down, identifying the issue and explaining the reasons and the fix.
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Inon Z330 random firing?
Fair enough! Wireless transmitter to your dive computer? That can trigger strobes.
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Inon Z330 random firing?
No chance you’re near another photographer and the strobes are seeing the other flashes? They can fire under those circs.
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What do you carry your camera rig in?
Airport porters must love Ashley. 🤣
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Hi from Sydney
Hi UWZane! Welcome to Waterpixels. It’s great to have you with us. We hope you enjoy the forum.