TimG

A very good point, well made. Discussions of the technical aspects of equipment and combinations can be fascinating. But bottom line, it’s the image that counts. Does it create an emotion?

Great to have you with us, zvonimiri. Welcome!

Good to have another Brit on board. Welcome Browni!

Hmmmm, something odd going on. I can see clearly Mark Site Read on my system. Can you let me know what software/system you’re using and we’ll look into it?

XQD reader module also available for the HR1. Add €25/£20.

Here's a write-up I did pre-Waterpixels on using a Kenko 1.4 TC with various Nikon camera bodies and lenses..... I thought it worth copying here. There's been some discussion of late of various combinations of lenses with a Kenko 1.4TC: what works, what doesn't. I've got both the Kenko 1.4TC DG and DGX models, a Nikon D500, a Z6, the Tokina 10-17 and the Nikkor 8-15. I thought Wetpixelers might find it useful to see the results of the various combinations. What works is in bold. D500 (DX) D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: Err message. No AF; no vignetting at any focal length D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length Nikon Z6 (and, presumably Z7) with firmware 3.0 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: No AF; No aperture readout; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; No aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11 Conclusion a. If you want to use the Kenko with a Tokina 10-17 on a D500 no problem with the DG or DGX model b. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a D500, you need the DGX model c. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a Z6/Z7 you need the DG model d. Forget trying to use either the Kenko DG or DGX with a Tokina 10-17 on the Z6/Z7 (well why would you anyway)   I don't have the Kenko HD model so can't comment on that but perhaps if someone has, they could add the data for that. Hope this helps, guys Tim

Hi Sundeep! Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels.

The CF cards are heading to a new home. Thanks, Mark The Lexar Professional Workflow HR1 remains available. It has the modules for SD and CF cards and can hold two more card readers. All modules can be removed and used in any of the four slots. In addition, the modules can be removed and used away from the tower as separate travel card readers using the supplied connectors (see photo) The system works really well and is a great way of managing multiple card readers. All works perfectly. €80/£75 including shipping in the EU or UK.

I've just sold on my final CF-equipped camera body and so have some CF cards left over - these are Compact Flash CF not CFExpress. If they are of use to you, let me know. I'm happy to send them on for the cost of mailing. They are: 2x Lexar Professional 800x 64GB UDMA7 2x SanDisk Extreme 60MB/S 16GB UDMA I also have available the excellent Lexar Professional Workflow HR1 tower which holds 4 cards reader in slots. I have the CF and SD card modules available which fit in it. See separate post below.

Hey Chip You don't find having the Catalog (as opposed to the actual images) on an external SSD slows things down a bit? I tried this system - which seems ok - but after watching Scott Kelby's video I figured having the Catalog on my Mac Studio's internal SSD was a better way to go. It does seem slightly faster. But your point of being able to pick up the external SSD and work completely away from a main desktop, is good. Do you know the overall speed of your external SSD drive? I did find upgrading the USB-C cable to a 20GB/s capable one made quite a difference when plugged into USB3.2 port. It's now my SSD enclosure which seems to be the speed limiting factor and I'm looking to upgrade it. Naively I thought you just slapped a SSD into a housing, plugged in the right fitting cable and away you go! Advice from makar0n and Rich opened may eyes to whole new world of extra speed, complexity - and cost. Who knew? Well, clearly not me.

My guess is that with a 9mm on an APS-C sensor at f11, almost everything is going to be in focus if you set the focussing spot slightly back from infinity.

You've made Oskar a happy man.....🤣 Congrats, @Landvogt1893, get some great pics with them!

Super images, Chris!

Hey Ben! Great to have you with us. A warm welcome.

Is a 20cm close focusing distance the ideal across all domeports? If so, that's a pretty useful rule of thumb.

You should have this: Bottom right hand corner: "Unread Activity" and "Mark site Read"? Tim

Errr, that’s odd. I’m using an iPad and I can see Mark as Read at the bottom on the Critter ID thread. What device are you using?

Interceptor121 85 Posted yesterday at 01:09 PM · IP I think this kind of solution is expensive and not effective In many cases poor performance is due to lenses focussing too far requiring domes too large or even more common incorrect calculations of the position of the dome I have not had an issue with edges moving from MFT to full frame the key is to choose the right lens Quote TimG 390 Posted yesterday at 01:47 PM · IP I've got no personal experience of the S&S but I seem to remember a number of folks using them and being happy with the results especially, if I recall right, using lenses like the Nikkor F 16-35 and Z 14-30. Good though you've had no issues. Good choice on those lenses! Quote Phil Rudin 69 Posted 1 hour ago · IP I agree with 121 that proper port size and extension length are required for best corner results and of course full frame suffers more than sub full frame given the same F/number. However I have done a number of tests using like equipment, example Tamron 17-28mm and Sony FE 16-35mm PZ in 180mm dome with and without the S&S conversion lens and the S&S always bests the native lens by at least one stop. I have also used the S&S lens on fixed lenses like Zeiss Batis 18mm with similar results. I also agree with 121 bout minimum focus the Sony 16-35 PZ minimum is 24cm, Tamron 17-28 is 19cm and the Sigma 17mm F/4 has a minimum focus of 12cm. For wide rectilinear I would chose the Sigma 17mm over the other two even without the S&S because of the close focus. It is outstanding in a 180mm port but I have also used it in a 140mm port because it can focus closer than most fisheye lenses. To get a one stop increase for $600.00ish is the question and it appears that several have found this worth the cost especially if the alternative is an expensive water contact lens. The second issue is if you are on team rectilinear or on team fisheye. Many would rather just go fisheye to reduce corner issues. Image is the Sigma 17mm F/4 in the 140mm dome port at F/11 with the port glass touching the pool light glass, A/V light. Quote

Hey mandab! Welcome to Waterpixels. Excellent to have you with us. I can quite understand that move to Oz......

With the news that the S&S correction lens may be staging a come back, @Phil Rudin suggested we start a thread for it. Good idea, Phil!

Guys - I've set up a thread for this now......

HI awe. Welcome to Waterpixels! We hope you really like this new forum.

I've got no personal experience of the S&S but I seem to remember a number of folks using them and being happy with the results especially, if I recall right, using lenses like the Nikkor F 16-35 and Z 14-30. Good though you've had no issues. Good choice on those lenses!