TimG

I had this problem a couple of times with Inon Z220s or Z240s. As you say, darn tricky to get at them to clean.

Yeah, I agree. Early days as we get to grips with the impact of the software upgrade and how we tweak it.

Noted and will explore - thanks.

What's the betting that we are going to see raises worldwide as manufacturers and distributors make use of the excuse of US tariffs? Or am I being too cynical??

If you click in the small icon that is your profile at the tope lot the page, you'll see it there. I've raised this with Rich but don't know if that is changeable at the moment.

Hey Robin! A warm welcome to your new home. I’m sure there will be lots of names you recognise here from The Other Forum. Good to have you with us - at last 😜 Best wishes.

Go on…. What does it stand for? 😝

I agree with Dave. Why take the risk?

Just re-reading the Retra manual……. Retra ”strongly advise” the removal of batteries for travel.

I very much doubt you’ll regret your decision! 👍🏼

I must admit I always travel with no batteries in the Retras. I’m sure Oskar will chip-in with the Retra view.

Interesting thought. The weight of the Booster is negligible and takes up very little space. I’ve always traveled with both the regular back as well as the Booster but I honestly couldn’t you why! I guess it makes more sense to leave the regular back at home.

I know nothing about the Kraken but rate the Retras highly. I’ve gone through the various iterations and have been highly impressed by the build quality, performance and customer service. I use the Retra LSD for macro with the ProMax all the time and find the combination terrific. I really like being able to use AAs with the Retra and the booster addition usually covers me for a 4 dive day. Yes, they are pricey but I’ve never regretted the Retras for a second. Reliable, a great range of well-made accessories, fairly compact and robust. I’d recommend them without hesitation.

Oskar at Retra told me some time back that some strobes require the fibre cable to be centralised very carefully on the sensor. This applies especially for TTL. Hence fibre bushes/plugs with dual holes (like the Inon ones) can be problematic.

No worries. Yeah, there is more than one version of the PRO300 and not all of them work with every Nikon body.

With a Z8?

Thanks Chris. Do you know if it’s the DG or DGX model? I think the Pro 300 has one or other of those designations.

Yep, I’ve had the 100 and the 200. The only advantage I could ever see of the 200 is for over/unders. The 100 optically is just as good, is easier for travelling and better ergonomically for CFWA. If over/unders are essential then a 200 is very good. Otherwise, for me, 100 is best.

You know we Brits will ride to your rescue with your Euro allies. 😊

Thanks Markus! Good to know. I'll add it to the list

Yeah, you may well be right and that does seem logical. It’d be good to test it though. If anyone has a D850 and a Kenko 1.4 DGX and/or DG perhaps they can report back…..

The US used to be a good place to buy electrical and camera gear. No longer I guess.

As you say, RomiK, it’s all about personal preferences. I like the wreck image and, to me, it’s not so obviously a fisheye.

If you do you are not going to get hit with that curse: ".... if only I'd bought the [fill in something you REALLY wanted to buy here but "compromised" and now regret it]...."

I'm sure I read somewhere recently that an independent manufacturer has produced an FTZ-equivalent that will drive older lenses. I thought when I read it that perhaps it would drive the Sigma 15mm - or as Walt mentions, the Nikkor 16mm. The lack of Z-mount fisheye is, for we underwater folk, a major missing element.