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TimG

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Everything posted by TimG

  1. If we get an answer to this, I'll pin it. It'd be really useful. I saw it done some years ago when I worked in Lembeh. Shen, one of the techies from Reef Photo, replaced the glass on one of my Subal ports. It took him about 10 minutes to get the old glass out using a modified cut-down dental pick plus an approx 4" lever he'd made out of thick acrylic - or polycarbonate. It looked like a push bike tyre lever. It was one of those pick-pull-lever-curse-pick-lever-mutter-lever-bingo manoeuvres. Popping the new glass in took seconds. It was very impressive! I scrounged the lever and pick off him in exchange for free diving..... I've never done it myself though. Probably just as well.
  2. We English care about you, Atus, especially after last night. A deserved win!
  3. Hey, you joke. I've seen it done. I've seen spectacular pics of a nudi crawling along a mirror. Shades of Apocalypse Now?
  4. Apologies for the poor layout and captions. I was really struggling to get images to sit in the appropriate place in the text with a fuller caption. After several attempts, I gave up!
  5. The link doesn't seem to work? I had a Heinrich Weikamp TTL convertor around 2010. Cracking piece of kit!
  6. Negative Space The two main tips on starting underwater photography are Get Close and Shoot Upwards. The idea being that the closer you get, the less the water interferes with the image. By shooting upwards there is a better chance of increasing the impact of subject by separating it from a messy background. Those two elements of guidance, especially the latter, can go a long way to improving image-making. But there comes a point for many underwater photographers where images become all a bit routine - yet another fish portrait? A FRESH APPROACH I hit this plateau some years back whilst running a dive resort in the Lembeh Straits. Just how many xxxxfish/seahorse shots could I take? I wanted fresh ideas. A fresh approach. I wanted to create something that wasn’t a fish portrait. A resort guest, a very talented underwater photographer, pointed me in the direction of using “negative space”. What? Negative space is “a term used in art to describe the space surrounding a subject. Also called white space, it is typically empty and lacks details as to simplify an image. Negative space surrounds positive space in a work of art”. “Typically empty” and “lacks details” are the key elements. A blank canvas. So how do you find or create “negative space”? A very simple example: if you shoot upwards, into the blue, you have lots of negative space - the whole ocean. Lighting can be tricky but is manageable. SEARCHING FOR NEGATIVE SPACE How about searching for a piece of coral that produces effectively a blank canvas? Corals can come in all sorts of interesting colours, shapes and sizes: think, for example, of Elephant Ear corals with their vibrant orange colour. A blank, orange canvas. Then see what lives there, what lies there, what might come on to that canvas and create a visually striking image against the negative space. What about a colourless rock? Or one covered in red algae? With this technique, you think about the dive in a different way and new ideas emerge: graphical images, images of perhaps only one or two strong and contrasting colours or shapes. The fish portrait starts to disappear and the image becomes one of lines, colours and contrasts. The subject might become an accessory to a strong visual impression. Try a dive where, instead of going hunting for a subject, you go hunting for a good negative space, a canvas, and see what might be there or, with patience, what might show up. Take some time to weigh-up the canvas: angles, colours, contrasts…. you might end up spending the whole dive in only one or two spots. CREATING NEGATIVE SPACE Inevitably though some dives sites just don’t offer negative space. So create your own. There are several ways. Using the widest aperture setting, so reducing depth of field, can turn a fussy background into a creamy, indistinguishable canvas. This is using the “bokeh” effect beloved of portrait photographers. This works very well if shooting low and upwards. (I can recommend 45-degree viewfinder for this!) and for subjects that are parallel to the camera sensor rather than being at right angles. Or the opposite: a fast shutter speed will reduce the amount of light the camera sees and turn the background into that classic black canvas. Or maybe not quite so fast and get a mid or dark blue canvas. Rather than shoot at, say 1/100, try 1/250 or the fastest your camera can sync with the strobes. High Speed Synchronisation - HSS - equipped strobes and triggers are a major bonus allowing much higher shutter speeds. Or use a snoot. Snoots are a great way of concentrating light onto a subject. A negative space is then created in the shape of a black or unlight canvas for the areas the snoot does not light. SEE THE DIFFERENCE Hunt for negative spaces, play around with these techniques and you may well find a whole new style of diving and a whole new way of image-making. Images which are strong graphically or in their simple and contrasting colours. And if that doesn’t work, you can always go back to fish portraits. A fast shutter speed creates a black canvas A red canvas of algae A wide aperture creates a blurry background Coral creates a canvas for a graphical image Snoots create negative space and highlight subject
  7. Chip made an excellent suggestion in another post about having a pair of the longer clamps to use with arms fitted with Stix. I don’t have these for my system but if I was starting from scratch I’d have two for connecting the pairs of arms fitted with Stix. I don’t think you need them for the other connections.
  8. Hey Johno i think there are only a couple of areas of u/w equipment purchasing where you only need to buy once. Arms and clamps are one of very few. Buy once, buy well. Tempting though it is to get Amazon’s best, I’d advise against it strongly. I bought ULCS in 1999. I still have them all, they work perfectly and never a blip. It was money well spent - unlike some of my u/w investments. I’ve bought a couple of cheap clamps a couple of times. Maybe good for a short time but nothing like the quality or longevity of ULCS. And, if you look at second hand prices of ULCS, they hold their value way better than the rest of the gear we use!
  9. Members have noticed slight differences. It might be better to try and stick with one make if you can.
  10. TimG

    New toys.

    Big vote for Stix. I’ve been using the same set since 2010 and they’re still good as new and they’ve done well over 1000 dives. They’re very easy to adjust, add, or remove. You can even cut them with care.
  11. TimG

    New toys.

    Good tip from Chip on the soak and work the buttons and levers routine post-dive. I’d also add don’t let the port glass dry with water on it. That develops water marks in time. It pays to wipe dry port glass with a soft fibre-free cloth. Enjoy your new gear. And be prepared for the initial frustrations! Anytime you need help emptying your bank account, we’re here for you…. 😝
  12. Some great thoughts.... Whatever the tools used, isn't much of what we do all about creating something that gives us pleasure and a sense of satisfaction? Whether that's done with film, digital, AI or a wet finger, does it really matter? Explain Jackson Pollock to Vermeer.......
  13. Great to have you with us, Diver Dave 1. A warm welcome to Waterpixels.
  14. Firmware update now available v2.2 for ProMax
  15. Fibre optic cables: make you own. Easy, cheap, satisfying,….
  16. You make a good point. I had an issue some time ago with a strobe/trigger combination and blamed all sorts of people: Retra, UWT, the Almighty, Life..... It turned out that the problem was with the way I'd cut the fibre optic cables (with scissors and not with a razor blade). Retra were extremely helpful - not to mention patient - in calming me down, identifying the issue and explaining the reasons and the fix.
  17. Fair enough! Wireless transmitter to your dive computer? That can trigger strobes.
  18. No chance you’re near another photographer and the strobes are seeing the other flashes? They can fire under those circs.
  19. Hi UWZane! Welcome to Waterpixels. It’s great to have you with us. We hope you enjoy the forum.
  20. Once you have the alignment issue cracked - and that comes from having the right combination of strobe and snoot - it then becomes an issue of composition and understanding what effect the snoot has depending on the angle and light output. So if you've got the right gear, then, yep, 5 dives should do it. One thing I did find - and maybe this is blindingly obvious - the smaller the snoot aperture you use, the higher you need to set the power on the strobe. It's not unusual for me to be using 100% or close. See this example. Tiny aiming point.
  21. It certainly looks solid - which could be good for your RIB entry issue. Other than that though, I'm not sure it has any other significant advantage over the more classic, say 8" +5" +strobe/snoot on the left hand side of the housing. That's just as flexible and manoeuvrable. Actually I do wodner if the Wolf system is less manoeuvrable as you have to bring your left hand over the top of the housing whereas using the "classic" method, the strobe/snoot is close to your left hand anyway. But, hey potato/potahto..... whatever works best for you is the best way.
  22. Jim, presumably no issues with the adjustable mechanism?
  23. The Marelux SOFT does look interesting for sure. Couple of thoughts: - I do think red light spooks fish less- certainly for night dives. That said, I’ve never had a snoot subject skiddadle when using a white focussing light. I wouldn’t pay extra to have a red snoot focussing light. - I thought the variable iris in the SOFT sounded brilliant. However I’ve heard from someone I trust that variable iris mechanisms tend to fall prey to salt conditions and jam. (Advice was to go with the slide in masks). I don’t know if this is the case with the SOFT but it’s certainly something worth checking out.
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