CaolIla

Sorry but that's a 😞 solution, put the diaphragm into salt water will not work a long time.

Really not sure... the construction ist good and I didn't find any problems. To be honest the first dive was a disaster for the Version 1.0 of the snoot. It was flooded. After that the diaphragm was rosty. I disassemble it and clean it... reassembling it was a small challenge.. Now it work smooth. I have a second in reserve just in case 😉

Hi @Dave_Hicks Thanks I use epoxy to seal and sometimes to solidify a little bit I cover with fiberglass In the case of the snoot I use some O-Ring The first version wasn't ok some water get in. But with the last version it's fine. I made dives to 40 meter without any water in. The next test will be 3 weeks and between 40 and 45 dives... no probably only 20 to 30 dive for the snoot. Depending of the dive type we have. but at the end 5 days Lembeh with snoot 😄 Before this holidays i'll made some dive in lac with cold water to practice a little bit with the snoot. He will dive several time to 40 or more. This part is the most complex I build it was realy funny to explore the usage of O-ring to seal the snoot and the second challenge was to make the screw to close the 3 parts. The 3er was the rotation of the diaphragm, I'm really happy with the solution I found. This snoot is not perfekt it will be a other one. My idea is to add a small light in the snoot with a baterie. The Retra have a focus light in the middle but it used a lot of power... If I find an other solution I'll try it.

I know bu I don't need such a feature for the moment. If I want that it's not a problem. I'll add this on my snoot. 2 solutions, add a part at the end or build a new piece with a build-in shape positioning. With 3D printing it's easy to add something and it's realy fast if you have the skills to build 3D models

I'm not sure that this diaphragms are fragile... and it he have some problems that's not really an issue... I have a second one and I can open the snoot and replace it The price is only 17 € .. The second point is that I can change the lenses in the snoot to adapte the focal length easily. For the moment I have 20/25 cm focus length.. I made test with shorter but 20 cm is for me a good distance.

🤣

What can I understand ?

Hi I build my own snoot. The complete story is to find here Fabrication d'un snoot a diaphragme pour flash Retra - L'impression 3D pour la plongée - Plongeur.com - Le site de la plongée sous marine in french sorry. I put here the final information and pictures. It's a snoot for a retra flash The idea is to use a diaphragm to control the size of the light To be sure that the inner part stay dry I made a rotation system with small magnets You can see the hole size small and big. First conception in 3D and the part in real Somme test on land That the final version of the snoot I use The snoot underwater is positiv it's fine I love that he swimm over the housing when he is attached on it.. I made only one trip with this snoot but unfortunatly i made no pictures with it. I had probleme with my flashes. You need to wait the next trip to see some underwater pictures I hope you will have some idea for you DIY

It's better ... but with a snoot it will be much more better 😄

The eyes are sharp but ... the background need to be darker. Try to use a snoot

Some Idea I have, and partialy made. 1) using bigger fiber cable. , done. To do 2) make a some connection to couple 2 cable together base on the standard connection of Inon. Is to try if with more than one section of cable it works like with one If yes 3) make new arm with fiber cable in it. with a in and out Inon connection (female) 4) only have a set of small cable to join all the part housing-arm1-arm2-flash with Inon male connectors will be done before the next holyday in mai I'll make a review of my DIY 😉

My idea was to have only the arms nothing else... a minimum of components I'm happy with my solution . but now that I can print in PETG I will try make gain on the side of the weight. The idea is to make a thin external structur and recover with carbon fiber and epoxy.

Nice vidéo Thanks

You have no idea what I cost for one hour 🤣 But for me it's really have a lot of fun to build new parts.. it's like a hobby

Hi I have buy one zoom gear for my Canon / Isotta... and after that I have build others for other objectiv. YES it's a "big" work... and you need some skills and software... But it's sheap to print after you have build de base... But it's clear not for beginners in 3D Printing If you compare the time you need and the cost for buying one it's probably better to buy.

It's a standard "INON" hole on the side of the housing. and no problem it stay on place. The cables are standards I bought in the past... but the connector was broken.. that's the reason I build new one I try first make "complex" design... but the simpliest ist at the end the best... If the hole for the cable ist to big you can increase the density of the print you will reduce the hole... and the cable will stay on place

The rubber piece come from an old connection I reuse it. But not on all part I use. I had only 2 rubber piece... You can use the connector without

Hi Markus, I printed some with PLA and some with PETG. No screw nothing and it works well.

Hope this will give you some idea. I made some new floating arm, but I 'don't have any picture. The new one have the same shape but ... I build a tube to put the fiberoptic cable from the bottom to the top.... no more risk Next step ist to make the same with the arms where I attached the flashs.

View mounted with the the old gopro8 and the compas

Hi, one of my best conception I build 2 big arm to compensate the weight of my aluminium housing, the 2 lights bigblue and the 2 flash... at the pictures you see my old S2000 but now since 1 an 1/2 year I have 2 retra pro 3D model

A very small and simple fiberoptic connector who take a few minutes to build with a 3D printer. and the STL file Embout-FO_03.stl Hope it can help someone. If you have question don't hesiate to ask.

Nice but it's not a fish 😉