Phil Rudin

Marelux also has adapters for N 100 lenses like wet lenses like WACP-C and N 120 for WACP 1/2.

Well they did have a few new items but a Z330 replacement was not one of them. Inon has never had a booth at DEMA to my recollection so if a new strobe arrives there it will be displayed through retailers at the show.

If I understand your question correctly, yes I have mounted the bayonet mount II on the Marelux 32 flat macro port to use with the Sony FE 28-60mm and the WWL-1B. Note in the images that the MX-32 port is shorter than the Nauticam port and the BLUE lens release hits the port when it is pushed down to release the lens. In the photo you will see I shaved a few mm off the blue release to make it work more easily.

Tamron has a very long history of releasing 90mm macros. Up sides not mentioned, the focus limiter has a range from 1:1 to 70cm unlike the other 90/100/105 lenses that are all 1:1 to 50cm the extra 20cm is a very welcome addition to help reduce hunting. Twelve rounded aperture blades v. 9 for most others, helps with soothing out of focus areas. If you go to the Tamron web site under Tech Specs the minimum aperture is listed as F/16-F/22. Because many macros don't have manual aperture rings the aperture is changed in camera and with this Tamron stops at F/16. However as the lens is extended into the 1:3 to 1:1 range the aperture often changes to F/22 by default. It remains to be seen if this will appear in the lens meta-data.

I agree with Craine, extends to far, needs a macro port with wider glass not to vignette, does not have the focus speed of more modern lenses like the new Tamron 90mm F/2.8 Di III VXD for Nikon and Sony, if you use a Sony 90mm macro port you will need over 30mm of extension. So no real up side for this lens.

Hi RV, My guess would be that the limiter switch would be set at 1:1 to infinity and the MFO would do the rest. This however could change from lens to lens and I think Edward would be the better person to ask for clarification.

I think several are missing the main up side here, the lens is called MID-range Optimizer. Its main function is not as a closeup lens but as a way to hit a focus range not available on current macro lenses like Canon 100, Nikon 105, Sigma 105 or Sony 90mm. These lenses have a focus limiter switch which gives you only two options for macro. You can set the lens for focus from 1:1 (1.4:1 Canon) to infinity or 1:1 to 0.5 meters that is 50cm. The MFO-1 appears to allow you to now shoot from 1:1/1.1:1/1.2:1 (depending on lens) but now more than doubles the the max working distance to around 114cm or 1.14 meters (+/- depending on lens) which is about as far away as a 90 to 105 could possibly give you a respectable image. This will allow you to more than double working distance without the lens "hunting" like it would it you were set at 1:1 to infinity mode. I can't stress enough what a large upside this could be over having to chose between 0.5 meters max working distance or infinity and the hunting associated with it. The obvious second upside will be how well it improves LoCA created by the flat port air/water interface. This alone should improve macro images and be worth the price of admission.

I suspect you may see a new release at this event October 25-27 2924 in Tokyo Japan where Inon will be an exhibitor. null

First I made it clear I was using a Marelux housing, port and extensions the extension length would not be the same using a Nauticam housing which has been well documented here. Use one Marelux 1500ml flexbuoy for flotation and also have 5 inch diameter extension rings which add a bit of bounce so not a big issue for me. The bigger point here is that my response was to Architeuthis who did not want to travel with both the 140 and 180 ports and planned on taking only the 140 for 8-15 and not using the 20-70 at all. My response is simply that the 140 can be used for both lenses with good results, if properly used. I am aware that the 180 may give a bit better corners and the 230 is even better. The issue was what do you want to travel with. You need to go back to the drawing board and work out an extension combination for your own Nauticam housing and port system then retest and see if the results are a bit better. Until then I have attached two more Pipefish at 61mm and Shrimp at 70mm results with the 140 port look good to me.

I own the port and use the same extension recommended with the 230 port for a verity of wide lenses. So use the recommended extension for 8-15 with your type of housing system.

Marelux offers two types of optical viewfinders, 45 degree for EVF and 180 for LCD, also Inon Viewfinders are supported with an adapter which can be had a Fun-In. Also when I transitioned to Marelux I used Nauticam 140and Zen 230 for NA dome ports for a verity of lenses including Canon 8-15mm, WACP-1 and WACP-C with the Marelux N100 to MX 17mm adapter. I used both NA and MX extensions based on the recommendations on the Marelux port charts for your camera choice. Zoom gears are not compatible and macro ports may need to be for MX. I have also used the WWL-1B with the MX 32 port.

Just for your consideration I am in Bali with the 20-70 and left my 180mm port behind and I am only using the 140mm dome for Laowa 10mm and the 20-70mm, with Marelux I have worked out extensions of 75mm and dome. These were taken yesterday 17 Sept at Secret Bay no crop at 20mm and 70mm to give am idea of what the smaller port will do. null

Hi Nick, you may also want to post in the Industry section.

Hi @Aquatica you may also want to join the Industry forum.

I have tested both the AOI and WWL-1 side by side on the same camera system and image quality wise you will see little difference. I like the AOI buoyancy collar best because it is split in half and can be mounted more easily onto the lens. It is also easer to pack because it is two sections rather than one large round ring. That being said the new WWL-1B with the built in buoyancy collar and bayonet mounting system would be a better choice between the AOI and Nauticam offerings at the price point.

That would be light coming from above the jetty

Twin spot goby, (Signigobius biocellatus), Pemuteran Jetty, Bali, Indonesia. Under the Jetty, with the Sony A7R V and 90 macro lens, Marelux housing and port, two MF-2 strobes, ISO-160, F/14, 1/250th sec. View 1 commentnull

ZEN Underwater offers remote triggers.

I agree, most strobes that do HSS say third party trigger required in the manual and let the buyer figure out the rest. I spoke with Marelux today and suggested an update of the manual to include a note on which strobe features require a third party flash trigger. Third party flash trigger is a requirement for TTL, RC, HSS and MTL. This differs from camera to camera. With my Sony cameras the setting remains the same as it I was using the manual LED flash trigger from Marelux. I would suggest that anyone wanting to use HSS should go to your search engine and look for explanations on why mechanical shutter and global shutter can do HSS and electronic can not. Rule of thumb is that full frame cameras with electronic shutter can get to around 1/200th and APS-C can get to around 1/250th. The smaller sensor size allows for the extra 1/50th just like with the Sony A1 where you can get 1/400th in FF and 1/500th in APS-C with the Marelux manual trigger with 1/250th for other cameras in the A7 line. The UWT trigger I see says it works with Apollo III 2.0 for R6 II and I assume it has its own setting but again that varies from strobe to strobe. For Sony it is #3 on the number wheel. I would suggest trying something other than the Retra profile because that is not the same on my UWT trigger. For those using Turtle it may be another setting. This is why the strobe manufactures don't provide this information. LumiLink simply can't past the signal as fast as fiber optic cords and again will be different for some cameras. I love Lumilink for off camera strobe operation where you may want to back light a subject without needing an on camera flash to trigger a slave like with other strobes. TTL/RC (Olympus TTL) does not work with Lumilink.

It appears the S&S may help but I need to look at more images at different F/numbers. Also the 30mm extension without the S&S. I first tried a 20mm extension when I got the lens and they were bad but also shot at F/8. I really need to start all over and evaluate any gain with S&S.

So this is the Laowa 10mm with Marelux Sony A1 housing, 140mm dome port and 30mm extension. These were shot using the S&S conversion lens. My copy is the same 77mm as the lens soI thought I would give it a try. All were at F13 and the split is at F/22. First image is with the shade installed and you can Clearly see the shade at the top and bottom. Marelux shade is bayonet mount so it can be removed and reinstalled very quickly. These were shot with the standard Marelux flash trigger using Apollo III strobes for fill at 1/400th sec. You may also notice that the steps and tile are every bit as wide as the many shots I have posted with a verity of wet lenses with the same 130 degree AOV at 28mm and the same distance to subject. In fact they look wider than some wet 130 degree lenses I have tested.

Perhaps I was not clear, Apollo III version II has a B in front of the last three numbers in the serial number. The A2D at the beginning is the same for both versions. Apollo S has the same Type II features but starts with M2D and has the A before the last three numbers. With Apollo III V,II and Apollo S both work with the same flash trigger (in my case) UWTechnics to do HSS, MTL and TTL with fiber cords. With LumiLink V.II you get 1/250th sync, HSS and MTL support.

Hi BC, are you using the auto focus version or the Manual focus version?

So my math is not that great but using your chart of 58.8cm for R5C with no adapter and 27mm for A7R V plus 35.5 adapter you get a total of 62.5 or a 3.7mm difference if I am understanding correctly. I don't own any precision tool but when I use a ruler the distance from the lens mounting ring to the top of the Marelux housing where the port seats against the front of the housing is close to 30mm +/-1mm. So Sony A7RV/A1 30mm + 35mm of extension for the 140mm dome port is 65mm. So the N100 to N120 35.5+15mm equals 50.5 plus 27 for Sony RV equals 77.5mm. So neither the 15 or 10mm extensions will work well. To get to 65mm for the Nauticam 140mm port it would be the 27mm for A7R V + 38mm of extension. So it seems that 35.5mm N100 to N120 would be as close as you can get. Also the 35mm distance is the same for both my Sony A7R V and A1 housings so no variations between housings. Also the Marelux 140mm port with bayonet shade sits flat against the port extension. I don't remember if Nauticam has the same design so any differences would need to be taken into considerations. I will test again using 30mm's of extension rather than 35mm and see if I find any improvement. Also if someone has a more precise measurement for Marelux Sony housings please post.

I have ask Marelux direct and will let you know when I hear back.