bvanant

For sale is a complete ready to dive Canon 7D system in Nauticam housing. Nauticam Housing (1), with leak detection and pump. Nauticam Dome Port( 4 inch) for Wide Angle (1) Nauticam port for 60mm lens (1) Nauticam port for 100mm lens (1) Nauticam SMC-1 (1) Nauticam 45 degree viewfinder (1) Canon 7D Mark 1 camera body Tokina AT-X , 10 -17 mm lens, for Canon.(1) Canon EF-S 60mm F/2.8 macro USM lens (1) Canon Macro lens EF 100 mm 1:2.8 IS USM (1) Inon D - 2000 Strobes (2) Canon batteries ( 2) and charger. Ball mounts for strobes Cables for strobes Various Orings and miscellaneous port caps and other bits and pieces , Oring grease etc New, this was awesome and expensive. Altogether, ready to dive Price is $3500 US. The system is in Australia and will ship from there. You pay the shipping. Great system for someone getting into UW photography. I don't want to piece it out. Note this is for a camera, three lenses (100, 60, 10-17) and Nauticam housing with ports for all of the lenses. Bill

splitters exist for topside FO work. Here is a $13 1-8. Fiberone makes a 1x2. We use some more expensive ones in our lab to run spectrometers.

nice as always Jack

Fantastic book, now like $28 from Amazon. bill

I wonder if it has the same dimensions, i.e., fit in the same housings. Otherwise not so clear how much an upgrade it it over the OM-1. Bill

Too many to try to sort. Here is one from Black Water in Komodonull

Alex Mustard wrote a long review of strobes that he has seen fail during many of his workshops. S&S topped the list as most prone to failure and many of the D2s had catastrophic tube failures. Inon much less so but with limited experience with the Z330 it was hard to say. Having a third is never a bad idea even if you have to rent one. Bill

Why shoot with the 1.4 rather than add a low power diopter on a flip? In my hands on the OM-1 using the Oly 1.4 tele autofocus is noticeably slower. I haven't tried it that way underwater (can't find any extension ring shorter than 22 mm) Bill

we use Solas for video and I use on occasionally for a focus light, but mostly I use a Fix Neo 1500. Red, spot, flood and you can turn it down to very low levels in 1% increments. Bill

My wife has a bunch of blackwater video up on vimeo (https://vimeo.com/nannettev), shot with a Sony 4K handicam in a Recsea housing and two Sola 2500 lights. Mostly these were not tethered, we only do tethers in Hawaii (maybe a US or Hawaii liability thing). I think there are two types of blackwater critters. If you believe in the diet migration business, things living in the dark come at night to feed. They go back down when it gets light (they come up during total eclipse). They don't like light and putting ginormous lights on the downline will keep them away. The second set of critters are truly pelagic and are around day and night. Lights will attract krill type shrimps and bugs and these attract squid and other predators so it is a mixed bag of what you get. We just did a bunch of BW dives in Komodo with some good critters (juvenile blue ring, pelagic sea horse) and tons of squid. For me the lights are to show the divers where the line is and the light on the ball is to show the tender driver where the divers should be. Bill

I think you might be underestimating the need for good distance vision. I have a need for both distance and close correction and have a mask from Prescription Dive Masks in San Diego, works like a charm. BVA

Hi guys. Bill Van Antwerp, President of the Los Angeles Underwater Photo Society, avid diver both tropical and chillier waters. Cheers BVA