Dave_Hicks

Below is a photo of my reinforced lanyard: I just loop a length of bungie cord around the webbing, thread it inside the coil, and add a couple of small zip ties to keep if tight and flush. I like these lanyards as you can clip it together to keep the camera close or unclip to hold at arm's length. The downside is the flexible coil can sometimes separate from the hard plastic anchor points. I've had it happen a couple of times myself, fortunately not while diving. The bungie provides cheap and clean redundancy.

Perhaps you are missing the point. If you observe a great diver they usually have their arms crossed in front of them. Add a camera and they hold the handles. My point is your hands are not needed to maintain trim and buoyancy. I am unclear on what you find to be a such breach of safe diving practices. However I don't want an online spat so this is the last I will comment on this topic.

While it seems to me to be utterly mad to drag a DSLR sized camera around dangling on a tether, I guess there are different diving styles. I spend most of my time diving very close to the terrain. Usually 6 - 12 inches, maybe less while muck diving. Obviously dangling a camera is not going to work. My primary dive light is also attached to my camera, so I need to be pointing the camera to see. (Note: I mostly dive in the PNW around Puget Sound / BC and you need a light 95% of the time for both illumination and buddy visibility) However, if you need your hands free during typical diving situations then you are just not a good diver. With proper buoyancy control and trim, you don't need your hands. Hands and arms fluttering around waste energy and increase air consumption. The argument that you need hands free for "situational awareness" is nuts. I'd hate to see that person driving a car with their arms flapping around all the time. I have a lanyard always attached even though I am holding the camera. You are one emergency situation away from losing your camera if it's not clipped on. And I have had to assist or rescue other divers many times. I frequently dive in strong currents ascending buoy lines and often shoot DSMBs, so I need the camera clipped on and hands free on ascents.

Use a coiled lanyard. Problem solved. I reinforce mine with a loop of 4mm bungie snaked through the coils as I've had these coils detach after some years of use.

You should be holding your camera with both hands nearly all the time. It should only dangle on ascent if you need to hold a line or something. If drag a big camera rig, it is going to get f#@ked up. When I muck dive I am horizontal, frog kicking a few inches over the sand. The camera is in front of my face held in two hands. There is a camera mounted focus light acting as my primary light so I can find critters. How are you with trim and buoyancy? Perhaps that is the real problem?

Well, that is clearly not the case. Looking at that link, there is no mention on Nikon Z-mount as you say. Nauticam should update the page. The WWL-C does work with Nikon Z-mount mirrorless cameras. Just dig a bit deeper and look at the N120 Z-mount port chart where it is documented. The Port Chart shows the WWL-C configuration with the 24-50mm Z-mount lens. The full zoom range is supported. It's a great setup, and pretty compact. The Port6 that it mounts to is very short, like a 20mm extension. It ends up being smaller than the WWL-1B on Sony with the 28-70mm lens which requires a much longer port.

Sure, it's fantastic and the best option for Nikon Z Mirrorless cameras. I also have a Nikon 8-15 fisheyee, but that is for a more limited scenario with big reef scenes and very clear waters. The WWL-C with 24-50 will handle both wide and near-macro in more varied water conditions. Here are a couple of shots with this setup I took last week at God's Pocket in BC, both during the same dive: Nikon Z8 w/24-50mm @50mm, WWL-C, f18@1/200s iso125, Pair of Backscatter HF-1 strobes Nikon Z8 w/24-50mm @24mm, WWL-C, f11@1/80s iso400, Pair of Backscatter HF-1 strobes

Thanks! I have been using Duramic TPU95A. I use their PLA+ and PETG as well. I picked this brand based on Amazon reviews when I bought my first printer last year. I've been happy with Duramic filaments and stuck with it. The Bambu Generic TPU profile works well, and I just print it fairly slow at 75mm/s. I use some Bambu ABS & ASA as well. Amazon.com: DURAMIC 3D TPU Filament 1.75mm Black, TPU Flexible Filament 95A, Soft TPU 3D Printing Filament, 1kg Spool, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm, Black 1 Pack : Industrial & Scientific

When I travel I always have 3 strobes. Currently two HF-1s and an MF-2. I've had strobes die on me on liveaboards once or twice and loaned my spare to another diver too.

If you get a Nikon Z8 you should buy a WWL-C and the 24-50Z lens (get it used, it's cheap). This combo is so awesome you will use it more than anything else. It's a compelling reason not to consider any other housing than Nauticam. Pair that with a Macro using one of your adapted ports, and you may be good to go. Hit me up for a Zoom Gear on the 24-50Z, it will save you $250.

I have to say that it's awfully nice to have a backup strobe. Is $200 worth the loss of redundancy? I end up loaning spares to friends more often than I use them myself.

The rubber grip collar on my WWL-C fell off after a recent dive. The soft rubber probably got cut by a rock while taking a photo at a low angle. I made a replacement rubber collar on my 3D-Printer using TPU rubber filament. This material is tougher than the original rubber, and I added a couple of Loops to the design on each side to enable the addition of a lanyard. As you much often remove the WWL underwater to release bubbles, a lanyard is a good idea to avoid dropping it. (loss/damage) I don't know how common this problem of cutting the collar is, but the lanyard loops make it a useful enhancement regardless. I used fishing line and a spring clip to attach the port to the housing. Cosmetically, my design looks identical to the original. I printed in black, but one could make this in any festive color of your choice. The design is freely available at: https://makerworld.com/en/models/637896#profileId-563389

I printed these with supports on my Bambu FDM printer. I also tried without support (of the internal cavity) and it was just cleaner with. On the Bambu with AMS there is a cool trick where you can print with PLA or PETG, then use the other filament for the support interface layer. They don't stick together well, so the supports pop right off very cleanly. The AMS automates swapping between filaments.

Welcome! Always glad to see more PNW divers. I'm in Seattle and we have an extremely active dive community here, with tons of amazing diving around Puget Sound. Between Puget Sound, Hood Canal, and British Columbia, we have the best diving in North America. If you are not diving at home, I strongly encourage you to look into it! You'll get in a lot more diving and improve your photography skills quickly if you can just drive yourself to a day of great dives with friends. Cheers, Dave

Nice! Tight is better than too loose, you can always do a bit of sanding if needed. I have found that they stay on really snuggly underwater even if loose. Not sure if the holes will have an impact. Couldn't you just flip the print orientation to avoid adding holes?

I would be surprised if you can't buy a second hand D500 Nauticam housing. On the other hand the Z8 is amazing. You could get a Z6 as well for a bit less. Either will work great.

I used my MF-2 & HF-1 strobes up in God's Pocket (North Vancouver Island, BC, Canada) all last week, and gave some knobs to a couple of other divers as well. Everybody found that they worked great and make a big improvement to the usability of the strobes. First field tests were a success!

Clean your bed with dawn soap and a scrub pad. Add a brim to the print for better adhesion. I didn't need to, but it may help.

Clean your bed with dawn soap and a scrub pad. Add a brim to the print for better adhesion. I didn't need to, but it may help.

See if there is a local "maker space" at your community center, library, high school or university. The plans are available online and anyone can print them for you.

I am interested in a couple of items. Will PM.

Assuming the Nauticam gear itself is the same for Nikon and Canon, I could easily make one with some photos and two very precise measurements. I like making these things, and have done about 6 zoom and focus gears to date. 1) Diameter of the zoom ring in millimeters. 2) Distance in mm from the underside of the housings gear sprocket to the top of the zoom ring. 3) Confirm the outside diameter of any Canon / Nauticam gear and the tooth count. Let make sure it's the same as Nikon. Photos of the lens & tc put together from profile and top down. It might take a couple of tries to dial it in, but we could likely minimize this by providing a few variations in thickness of the friction sleeve. I am off diving this week, but pm me if you want to try it.

My 3D print design for the HF-1 Power Knob slip over cover: https://makerworld.com/models/610783

If you have access to a 3d printer, I have a design available for 2mm OD fiber optic connectors. Both 180deg and 90deg connectors. These are as good as anything you can buy. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6134211

Perhaps it is oil filled? Or some sort of lubricant or sealant on the interior became dislodged? I think you are going to have to send it to Nauticam for service. In the future leave cameras on the deck, perhaps in a cooler bag. It's the safest place for them.