Dave_Hicks

Correct. All F mount lens on the FTZ adapter are identical and use the same ports as DSLR.

I have the Kraken krl-09 which i pretty much the same as the MWL. On my Z8 i use the Port 60 and Nauticam dual flip adapter. Krl on one side, MFO-1 on the other. Like many wide angle setups, it is probably sharpest at f13 or so. Edges are not as good as the WWL-C in my experience. I bought this lens when I was shooting a DSLR, D800 or D850. The ability to shoot macro and wide angle on the same dive is sometimes nice to have. However, with a Z camera and the WWL-C with the 24-50mm lens you can do much the same focal ranges without removing the wet optics. And with sharper edges. As a result i am using this combo less often.

What?

The battery compartment is the most likely part of any strobe to flood. The MF / HF strobes are actually fairly resilient to battery compartment floods. Putting a usb port in there would make it less robust and increase the size of the strobe.

There are more expensive lights available no doubt. I prefer the simple focus lights with a standard type rechargeable battery. IMHO the Auto-off feature in a focus light is fairly useless. Unless you are shooting extremely slow shutter speeds (1/10th of a second or longer) or very high iso a focus light is not likely to be visible in a flash photo.

Strobes fire so fast (1/10,000 of a second) that fish don't typically react to them at all. It is the steady state lights that typically cause issues and scares off the fish. Most lights sold as UW photography focus lights have a red-light mode. Some high quality and low-cost examples are the OrcaTorch 710v or Kraken Hydra 1800 WSR.

I made one for the mfo-1. It is very effective.

I agree. AA batteries are past their prime. I strongly prefer devices with 21700 li-on batteries for my lights and strobes.

16 gb of ram and 256 gb storage is simply not adequate for Photo or video processing with Lightroom Classic and Photoshop. It might work for some people but it is a recipe for regret and wasted money on an non-upgradable system like a Mac. Get a bare minimum of 32gb ram and 1tb storage.

The HF-1 is a big strobe but works perfectly well for macro. I have used it many times with excellent results. But diving with two HF-1s exclusively for macro is pretty heavy. Most of the time when i plan for a macro set up I mount an MF-2 w/snoot and the HF-1 as a secondary fill light. I might like to have a smaller secondary strobe to save weight however. I do have my old inon 330s but it hasn't been enough of an issue to bother with charging the set of AA batteries.

Did Cartier-Bresson shoot Juvenile Sweetlips wiggling a 20hz?

Yeah, I tried that a while back when it first showed up in Photoshop. Just not what it's designed for. I did try out the auto-stacking feature and it worked quite well! On dives where I take a lot of photos of individual subjects it was really useful.

I haven't attempted 30fps, but it was mentioned in an add or review. I routinely use 3fps which is a more practical scenario that does not create 100s of junk images.

No problems for me. Catalog update was smooth, and i have a gigantic catalog.

When I shoot macro I typically pair an MF-2 with the HF-1. I add a macro restrictor ring to the HF-1 for a bit more control of the light. I rarely shoot the HF-1 above 1/4 power and will go down to 1/8th when using it for fill light in additional the primary MF-2 snooted strobe on full power.

The HF-1 is the recycle time champ doing around 30fps if you need it to. I just leave my Z8 on 3fps and take advantage of the fast recycle time whenever there is some fast action.

With some helpful tips from Isaac I was able to successfully make some Port Floats for my n120 Nauticam macro ports. I used a Bambu P1s printer but with ABS instead of PETG. Using just 4 walls of .5mm thickness, .1mm layers, random & staggered seams, 1.1x flow rates, and 10c higher nozzle temps I was able to get parts that are water and pressure tight to at least 35 meters. (have not tested deeper yet and don't have a pressure pot) 5% infill just to support the roof. It gets 300g buoyancy from a 200g dry weight torus. No coatings or treatments necessary. Beyond some light sanding, I don't do anything after they come off the printer. I probably have about 50+ hours of diving on my most used port float with zero problems. I weigh it periodically to verify that it has not taken on any water.

If you have not tried an aluminum print yet i highly recommend it. They are clean, sharp and very modern looking. Compared to a traditional framed paper print they are a bargain in large format sizes.

That looks really nice Isaac! Given what Nauticam is charging for extensions these days that is extremely reasonable.

Ok, I'll bite:

I think it's great to have a backup computer and other accessories on the camera. But you need at a least one computer on your body IMHO. I don't keep a computer on my camera, but I do mount my ER Shears on one camera arm and my heated vest controller on the other. I've seen other mount a compass and mirrors on their camera arms.

Print services generaly use sRGB.

I do a lot of large format metal prints on aluminum. 30x24 or 30x30 inches. The process is pretty easy, mostly. Calibrate your monitor to ensure color accuracy (not do easy, needs a device) Crop your photos to 4x5 or 1x1 as needed, or what ever format you pick from your print shop Export and resize in Lightroom as sRGB color space, 100% quality, and 300dpi. So for a 30" print you resize to 30*300 or 9000 pixels on the longest side. Upload to print shop In the US I use Printique to make my prints. I have had good results from them for many years.

There are people selling entire ports made of printed PETG. I do similar designs with ABS. No fiber needed.

From the A7rV Manual: Viewfinder Magnifi.Sets the display magnification of the viewfinder. If you select [Zoom Out], the viewing angle will become narrower. You can easily check the overall composition even when wearing glasses. MENU → (Setup) → [Finder/Monitor] → [Viewfinder Magnifi.] → desired setting. Menu item detailsStandard: Sets the viewfinder display magnification to standard. Zoom Out: Reduces the viewfinder display magnification