Dave_Hicks

The WWL-C + 24-50mm combo is a big part of why I moved to a mirrorless Z8 from my D850. It's an amazing combo of size and performance. I'm glad you are liking it so far!

This is how I have my arms setup with velcro straps holding the optical fibers. They sell velcro straps in a rainbow of colors, so feel free to get creative with it!

Get some velco straps to keep the cables flush against the arms.

Not breaking off is a big advantage. It's going to be a lot lighter if the strobe on that ball is on the sea bed.

Yes it can be done. You need to put a bolt through it to ensure the stem is strong enough. And use a proper oring. I would use .1mm layers, 6 walls and petg or asa for the print.

The multi core fiber is more resistant to damage. The bend radius is very small compared to toslink so you can't crimp or break to optical path as easily.

I largely avoid the burping issue by removing the cable end bushings from the housing and strobe when rinsing the camera. If you don't remove them during rinsing you will eventually end up with salt encrusting the optical path and preventing flashes.

There is a similar one on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/857318-sea-sea-ys-d3-dial

Camera arm mount for Venture Heated Vest Controller I just designed and printed a camera arm mount for the Venture Heated Vest remote controller. I use a Venture heated vest when scuba diving in cold water for added warmth and comfort. I recently replaced my old and fading Thermolution vest with a new Venture Heat vest. Typically, this controller would be mounted on your wrist or possibly hang from a bolt snap on your BC d-rings. I had the Thermolution controller on the same strap as my Teric wrist computer. Unfortunately, I found that the Venture Controller interfered with my Shearwater computer's electronic compass, making wrist mounting impossible for me. My BC d-rings were already quite utilized, making it difficult to find the controller in the jumble. I decided a better option would be to mount the controller on my camera strobe arms. I always dive with the camera, and this put the controller in easy reach while staying out of the way. The mount can be attached to your camera arm with Velcro strips or zip ties. I used Velcro strips around the Stix foam floats on my camera arms, and it is quite secure. To put the controller in the mount, place it diagonally in the mount, with the spring button angled up. Press down on the raised edge to snap it into place. I suggest attaching a small carabiner to similar clip to the controller and then affix it to the loop on the mounting bracket for extra security. Print in PETG or ABS for best results. PLA is not great for underwater objects and might be too brittle to handle repeated installation and removal of the controller over time. (You must remove it to charge periodically.) https://makerworld.com/en/models/1642165-venture-heated-vest-controller-camera-arm-mount#profileId-1735278

I am curious what the deal is with the rash of certificate failures in the last week. Did someone not setup auto-renew on some accounts? :)

Don't buy oversized cells. The higher capacity ones are larger in diameter and may not fit It's an easy job if you can do the soldering. A cheap spot welder kit may yield better results.

The WWL ports are pretty big compared to the MWL. Typically you put a mount on your camera arm if you want to remove the WWL during a dive.

Get some Sugru

I saw one where the wires inside the hotshoe were frayed creating a short. Open the hotshoe connector to inspect. First look for loose solder connections on the circuit board, hotshoe wire bundle, and battery.

I put a lite lanyard on my WWL-C. The original rubber grip got cut on rocks and fell off. I printed a replacement that has lanyard loops on it. Some knotted fishing fishing line and a micro clip to the handle ensure it does drop if i fumble the burb. 😧 https://makerworld.com/models/637896

Let's see some photos of your additions!

I use the WWL-C and occasionally fisheye up there. I tend to shoot macro for the 3rd dive of the day when the light is fading. The visibility is what it is, sometimes excellent occasionally less so. You can control the particulate with careful lighting in an conditions.

I have a buddy that likes to use some exotic manual focus lenses from LensBaby. I think 56mm and 24mm. He used them with out a focus ring for a while, but then i got a 3d printer and made a few zoom rings for myself. Pretty soon i was able to make focus rings for his lenses. There are none made or sold for these lenses, so it's the only way to go.

I found that with the Arm floats stix foam is hard to beat. The dry weight vs buoyancy ratio of jumbo stix is superior. Its just cleaner and more durable. Port floats work a bit more in favor of printing as you can get really snug, clean, and maximize volume.

I should go into business. I could sell a float collar for $50 and still make a $40 profit. Turns out my hourly rate is $0/hour since I retired. Obsolete and unemployable!

The port floats are big jobs, about 12 hours prints and use 1/3 of a KG spool. But once tested out, they are pretty easy to reproduce. So far, I just have designs for the 3 macro port configs I listed. I don't have a WWL-1 to measure.

I've been experimenting with 3D printed buoyancy solutions for a while now. I've created a few iterations of a form fitting collar that snuggly fit over a 105mm macro port and add about 250 to 350 grams of buoyancy. It's a lot cleaner looking than a foam belt too. My first versions relied on painting with epoxy resin to seal it, but I've since been able to make versions without added sealants that stay watertight to 100feet over multiple dives. I want to keep iterating to reduce the dry weight and wall thickness a bit more before sharing. I've made prototypes for the Port60, Port87, and Port60+20mm extension. These have been especially useful to counter the added front weighting of a Dual Flip adapter with a couple of diopters attached. It should be very possible to design one of these for the WWL-1. I have a WWL-C, but it includes a built-in aluminum buoyancy collar.

My HF-1 beam restrictors, which can sit on top of a diffuser : 60mm With 38mm option: 3D print shared at: https://makerworld.com/models/865305

Please include photos, not links.

It doesn't look like the hood is removable, which would be a problem in a dome port. And it's still rectilinear not fisheye. Perhaps it could be made to work, but I'm guessing it would need a larger dome port such as the 8.5".